ryanjury Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 So our nissan wingroad has been overheating quite often recently, as long as we keep moving it seems to be fine.. I investigated and found that water was not flowing through the radiator (hot pipe on top cold pipe on bottom and no hot air comes out on full hot inside) so straight away figured the thermostat so changed that.. That made no difference so I figured water pump so me and a mate changed that, while it was drained of coolant we blew water through the radiator and engine block to ensure nothing was blocked. Sure enough it was still doing it, so I removed the thermostat and it appeared to work fine (of course assumed dud new thermostat). We drove it into town last night and sure enough it started overheating (still no thermostat fitted), when my wife went to pick it up today it went fine (normal temp hot air comes out) but then she took a trip to the supermarket a bit later on again again it overheated no hot air etc.. So it is doing my head in, if you keep moving then it doesn't get over 3/4 on the temp gauge but it can't be good for it to going up and down in temp. The temperature also seems to swing very fast like it will drop from 3/4 to under a half in a matter of seconds which seems a bit fast to me? So this is really doing my head in there isn't much to the system and it shouldn't be that hard to figure it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie841 Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 Sounds like there is an air lock in the system somewhere. If not it could be a bung radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GZ_Loach Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 Change the radiator? If you have alot of bent/broken fins you won't have much surface area for the air to cool it. Have you also checked the fans blowing enough air onto it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
repto Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 thermostats can be finnicky and a dud off the shelf is not that uncommon.Also with these modern cars there is a correct procedure that needs to be followed to bleed airlocks out of your system?Go on to the trademe message board /motoring and ask your question thee alot of helpful mechanics etc on there will give you good advice on how to to this for your vehical,good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 Yeah I am picking an airlock too, followed the procedure to fill it correctly there is a plug you remove above the thermostat you fill it until coolant comes out there, and then fit the plug and continue to refill, have run it and waited for coolant level to drop.. Radiator is fine it is a 2000, the issue is that there is no water flowing through the radiator (but I can run water through it so it isn't blocked) and it is intermittent. Yeah thermostat looks a bit hit and miss no worries getting a dud one off the shelf but would expect car to be running right 100% of the time if it was removed not randomly? Will post in TM and see what they say cheers repto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 i am picking the water pump fins have corroded so not enough flow is being made edit: forget this now that i have read your post properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony law Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 hi there.i would say a faulty tremostat.or a block radiator. as for bleed a cooling system on a nissan remove top heater hose full up with water in till it run runs out of it refit top up make sure heaters on hot. run and let ilde in till you see a flow in top of radiator. means tremostat open,,make sure the fans are working..take for a drive ..let cold down recheck top up. then you should be alrigth... p/s if get to hot they do head gaskits... once i had fins missing on water pump is possable 23 years in the mechanic trade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 its a ford :digH: :sage: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GZ_Loach Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 its a ford :digH: :sage: It can't be, they don't run long enough to overheat :slfg: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony law Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 its a ford :digH: :sage: i may work on fords these days and mazda, but over the years ive work on tractors /truck /bus all makes of cars and motorbikes.. so i can say i know what im doing,,so there :evil: :sml2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony law Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 what year nissan wing road and type of eng some of the late model nissan run two teromstat in them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 2000 wingroad with a CQ18DE in it. It is certainly looking like a air lock or something like that, I haven't removed the top heater hoses yet might try that... I have pulled thermostat out (maybe it has 2 though?) so that isn't the issue, and have run water through the radiator when I drained all the fluid out and water flows through fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoon Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 perhaps a long shot but worth a look if you cant pinpoint it. are the fans working at the right temp? sometimes the temperature sensors get corroded or gunked up and dont activate the fans causing the car to overheat when stuck in traffic, you can normally clean them up with a wire brush. sometimes they can be intermittant like how you are experiencing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 The water isn't flowing through the radiator so the fans come on but just blow onto a cool radiator with no coolant flowing through it so they don't do anything.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supasi Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 Tell me if I have wrong end of stick but didnt you say it flowed then it stopped again? If this is the case then I doubt its an airlock. I dont believe an airlock is able to clear and then relock itself. Just a thought :dunno: ............. when my wife went to pick it up today it went fine (normal temp hot air comes out) but then she took a trip to the supermarket a bit later on again again it overheated no hot air etc.. So it is doing my head in, if you keep moving then it doesn't get over 3/4 on the temp gauge but it can't be good for it to going up and down in temp. The temperature also seems to swing very fast like it will drop from 3/4 to under a half in a matter of seconds which seems a bit fast to me? So this is really doing my head in there isn't much to the system and it shouldn't be that hard to figure it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony law Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 ifs the model im thinking of one stat on the block bottom hose and the antor is in the back of the head top hose.. it def sond like a blockage.how did you test the radator as they may have flow with the hose runnig but if the middle of the radator block it cant get voloum of water though cause it to over heat when not moveing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 It only stops and goes once you have turned the car off.. So it may be an airlock that moves or settles as the car heats up/cools down.. But once you start it and water isn't flowing through radiator then that is it it wont start no matter what you do.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the new guy Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 i had the excat same problem in my 1987 nissan sentra. i changed the thermostat, the water pump, and got the radiator tested. i kept loosing sooooo much water. i was replacing about 3/4 of the water a day. the radiator guy told me i had a cracked head.(obviously the mechanic couldn't tell me that when i took it too see him) but he was right it was the cracked head. but here is the catch i either get a reconditioned head for $200 and pay about $400 to get it installed. or i could just replace the entire engine for $125 which i did. and then made money from selling my old engine for scrap and parts(about $60). If i had any sense id get rid of my car, ive had it for 3 years and i only paid $500 for it. but ive put about $900 into it lol but i am driving a more modern car at the moment and prefer my car any day because it really is fuel efficient not like these new "fuel efficient" cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the new guy Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 O i see that was posted in 05 did you find out the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 No just posted it tonight.. There is no evidence of any water in the oil, so I hoping not head gasket or warped head etc... There is also no fluid loss.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the new guy Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 woops lol i read the wrong part what kinda nissan is it? and what is the engine in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony law Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 when you have the radator cap off and car running is there any fine bubbles in the cool system or pushing water out of radator. you may have a blown head gaskit and its puting fine bubbles into the system causeing the airlocks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 ifs the model im thinking of one stat on the block bottom hose and the antor is in the back of the head top hose.. it def sond like a blockage.how did you test the radator as they may have flow with the hose runnig but if the middle of the radator block it cant get voloum of water though cause it to over heat when not moveing.. The thermostat I have changed is undre a little black plastic cover that is fed by the bottom radiator hose the top one goes into a housing right next to it. So it is directly inline.. I just took the hoses off when it was empty and chucked the hose on it to pressurise it and water poured out the bottom, surely that would be enough to get some water flow and heat through the radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony law Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 ill be start to look at a head faulty then.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 ill be start to look at a head faulty then.. So you would diagnose this by looking for the fine air bubbles you are talking about above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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