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New 4ft FOWLR log


elusive_fish

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Time for my next seemingly random question :)

The irrigation place i got my sump plumbing on recommended i get a big metal gate valve as it will allow best water flow control. But it looks like its made of brass to me... and that will rust up pretty bad in salt water in the long term won't it?

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So after a few unforseen challenges regarding the plumbing that got me a little mad, I have the tank cycling and the protein skimmer working. Is it best for this stage to be done with the lights on or off?

My first test results are a little confusing.

pH - 8.0

Ammonia - 0.5 ppm

Nitrite - 0 ppm

Nitrate - 0 ppm

Half of my coral rock was dry/dead and has been cycling in salt water in a rubber maid for almost a month. The other half is 'live' rock that was from someone elses tank but sitting in a black bin with a heater for a few weeks before I got it. Four days ago I filled up the tank with fresh water, added salt, waited a couple of hours and added my rock.

Am I at the start or the end of the cylcing process? If i was at the end, wouldnt i expect to see some nitrate? or is that not the case because I cycled in different water from the tank ie 100% water change?

:roll:

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Each option with the lights has plus and minus's, having them on will allow light dependent life like coralline algae to grow, but it will also allow the not so nice algae's. Personally I believe it getting the tank going as you plan to keep it going from the start that way you get to iron out any problems before you add life stock. For example you don't want to add your first corals then find you lights over heat after 3-4 hours and switch off, or that they are heating the water too much etc etc.

The water results make sense, moving the rock and the dead rock would account for the ammonia and the water change accounts for the lack of nitrate. You should also have left the water over night with some power heads going before adding your rock. It needs to get it's ionic balance, until that happens your pH would have been all over the place and likely caused die off on your rock and added to the ammonia your seeing.

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Thanks for the reply, Suphew.

I'll be firing up the lights from here on.

I replaced the bulbs on my tank today, as they were getting old. I have two 4ft t8s, one is a 10k the other is an actinic. There is also a 3ft single t8 on the tank with the stock tube in it - its a very crisp white light, so i'm imagining its in the daylight range. Will i need to replace this too, or can i keep the stock bulb? (its brand new)

So basically im going through a mini cycle? Hopefully that means the bulk of the bacterial build up has been done. I'll recheck the water tomorrow and post the results.

Here is how things are looking at this stage:

012-1-1.jpg

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looks good so far nice blue background and it looks like the standpipe is working well how did the plumbing work out for you in the end?

did you end up using pressure pipe for the return as well?

is the tank quiet enough for you?

IMO use the light with the new tube also its not gunna hurt even if its not the typical 10k or actinic tube as you have no inverts at the moment if u start getting excessive alage perhaps turn it off

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I'm fairly happy the way the plumbing worked out in the end, even if i did hit a few unforseen snags. The water level in the overflow area is quite low (as you can see in the pic) and the water has a long way to fall, but because its only working at around 1000L/hr over 35cm its a very thin layer of water and tends to 'stick to' and run down the glass overflow partition rather than just slopping over. The syphoning is happening from a bare bulkhead on the bottom and the standpipe is only a safety.

I thought using the gate valve to regulate the flow out of the tank to match the flow going back in would be a real PITA. It's not at all. It seems to reach it's own equilibrium. I think its because closing the gate valve restricts the water flow (obviously), raising the water height in the overflow, which in term increases the water head, increasing the flow velocity. ie smaller diameter water flowing faster = same flow rate as larger stream of water at slower velocity. I'll have to run a few experiments. Funny really, because fluid dynamics was one of the reasons I didn't want to continue on with civil engineering :)

Most of the noise actually seems to be from the power head, it makes quite the hum. Also the protein skimmer is not that quiet.

Spoon, you'll have to come take a look :)

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  • 5 months later...

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