Brennos Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 So I went to animates today and bought a new phosphate test kit, and a KH test kit too, as I was curious of my KH. It's an API branded one, and in the instructions it states Directions for Testing Carbonate Hardness (KH): * Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium. * To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand. o Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested. o Fill the test tube with 5 ml of aquarium water (to the line on the test tube). o Add Carbonate Hardness Test Solution, one drop at a time, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops. After first drop is added, solution will turn blue. If the water sample contains only 1°dKH, the solution will turn from clear to its yellow endpoint after the first drop is added. o Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. Keep count of the drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube, as this may affect the test results. o The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from blue to yellow. If you have difficulty discerning the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the test tube and while holding it over a white background, look down through the tube. o The Carbonate Hardness value is determined by the number of drops of the reagent that must be added to turn the water in the test tube bright yellow. Each drop is equal to 1 °dKH or 17.9 ppm KH, (see the chart). So I did the above: 1 drop = faint yellow 2 drops = still faint ended up with 6 drops to make it almost orange yellow. At no point was the water ever blue, and no matter how much solution I use, its never bright. if I had to liken it to anything its more like L&P yellow. does any one else use this solution? can someone enlighten me? Going by this test my KH is around 3°-6° (50-100 ppm) which is ok for the fish I have, but lower would be better, ideally below 3° for the tetras and bristlenoses. So I guess some water changes are in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 So I went to animates today and bought a new phosphate test kit, and a KH test kit too, as I was curious of my KH. It's an API branded one, and in the instructions it states So I did the above: 1 drop = faint yellow 2 drops = still faint ended up with 6 drops to make it almost orange yellow. At no point was the water ever blue, and no matter how much solution I use, its never bright. if I had to liken it to anything its more like L&P yellow. does any one else use this solution? can someone enlighten me? Going by this test my KH is around 3°-6° (50-100 ppm) which is ok for the fish I have, but lower would be better, ideally below 3° for the tetras and bristlenoses. So I guess some water changes are in order. If the first drop was yellow, after flipping it once or twice to mix, then it sounds like your kh is less than 1. How did you get 3-6? You measure from when it changes from blue to yellow, not from yellow to really yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brennos Posted August 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 My water isn't blue? So they mean blue is actually clear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 My water isn't blue? So they mean blue is actually clear? No, the yellow testing liquid is blue. The first drop should turn the water blue if the KH is higher than 1° When the concentration of the reagent is lower than a given point it is blue. This point increases as the hardness of the water increases. Once the concentration increases past this point it turns yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brennos Posted August 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 No, the yellow testing liquid is blue. The first drop should turn the water blue if the KH is higher than 1° When the concentration of the reagent is lower than a given point it is blue. This point increases as the hardness of the water increases. Once the concentration increases past this point it turns yellow. Riiiiiight. Yellow is blue. Ok, so it sounds like my KH is perfect. I am on tank water, is this normal kh for rain water? In the tank is fine gravel, and driftwood, and ALOT of plants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip™ Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 I also was curious and brought a KH test, since they were cheaper during the aqua fun day, and had the same results. Water turned yellow straight away on the first drop, which at first was a little confusing after reading the instructions. But I assume the KH is either zero or less than 1... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 Riiiiiight. Yellow is blue. Ok, so it sounds like my KH is perfect. I am on tank water, is this normal kh for rain water? In the tank is fine gravel, and driftwood, and ALOT of plants. Heh, yeah, that's normal. Rainwater is just about as soft as it gets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brennos Posted August 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 Which is good yes? I mean for my application soft is good? Or am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moya Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 What kind of fish do you keep Brennos? Different species of fish will appreciate different values of water hardness (KH and GH). For example, if you've got Discus, or most other South American fish then your fish will be happy as larry with your soft water. Provided the pH is also correct and not tooooo low. Think of KH as the degree of resistance to pH change. High KH = harder to move your aquarium pH, Low KH = tank water is more vunerable to pH swings. Heres an easy breakdown courtesy of the API website = http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Produ ... oductID=74 "Carbonate hardness directly affects the ease of making pH adjustments. In freshwater a high KH level makes lowering the pH very difficult. Each time a pH adjuster is added some of the KH is "neutralized". Each consecutive dose reduces the buffering capacity (KH) of the water. The pH will not go down, however, until the "breakpoint" is reached. When the breakpoint is reached the KH is sufficiently reduced to allow the pH to go down. This is why it may take several doses of aquarium pH adjusters to successfully lower the pH. Adjusting the pH is much easier after the KH has been reduced. Maintaining the pH once adjusted can be difficult with tap water having a high KH level. Every time tap water is added more KH is added to the aquarium. This shifts the water chemistry toward a higher pH level. Some aquarists use distilled water to replace evaporated water. Other kinds of bottled water like spring water are usually high in minerals and will increase water hardness." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brennos Posted August 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 What kind of fish do you keep Brennos? Different species of fish will appreciate different values of water hardness (KH and GH). For example, if you've got Discus, or most other South American fish then your fish will be happy as larry with your soft water. Provided the pH is also correct and not tooooo low. Think of KH as the degree of resistance to pH change. High KH = harder to move your aquarium pH, Low KH = tank water is more vunerable to pH swings. Heres an easy breakdown courtesy of the API website = http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Produ ... oductID=74 "Carbonate hardness directly affects the ease of making pH adjustments. In freshwater a high KH level makes lowering the pH very difficult. Each time a pH adjuster is added some of the KH is "neutralized". Each consecutive dose reduces the buffering capacity (KH) of the water. The pH will not go down, however, until the "breakpoint" is reached. When the breakpoint is reached the KH is sufficiently reduced to allow the pH to go down. This is why it may take several doses of aquarium pH adjusters to successfully lower the pH. Adjusting the pH is much easier after the KH has been reduced. Maintaining the pH once adjusted can be difficult with tap water having a high KH level. Every time tap water is added more KH is added to the aquarium. This shifts the water chemistry toward a higher pH level. Some aquarists use distilled water to replace evaporated water. Other kinds of bottled water like spring water are usually high in minerals and will increase water hardness." 1x Bristlenose adult female soon to be another 1 or 2, suck cool fish. 12 x Cardinal Tetra 2x Electric Blue Rams 3x Panda Corys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.