maoripho3nix Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Plecos are out of the question in a tank this size. They grow too big and produce too much waste. Try corydoras (cories) instead, specifically pygmy cories. I like the look of those cories....understanding that they are a species of catfish, will they cleanup like plecs do?? now... remember "plecos" does not narrow it down. there are hundreds of thousands of plecos, and thousands that match the description of stripey. look out for good deals for tanks on trademe :lol: Yeah I tried to find an ID card for the fish in tank (This was at animates TGA) but then had to leave before I could ask staff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Pygmy cories would be good but they are expensive and they need to be in a bigger group. They also don't tend to spend a lot of time on the bottom (they sit on plants and actually school more). Having to get a group of them would also limit the number of tetras you could get. If you get a smaller tetra, like ember tetras, they will look more in proportion to your tank and you can have a larger group of them. You could get 10 embers, 1 oto and a couple of sparkling gourami which is a nice combination that I have in a small tank. Or, you could get an oto and a few small danios (they are very active and some species are very small so you can get a nice big school of them which looks very impressive). You might already know this, but keep in mind, you will need to build up the bioload very slowly, especially since it is a small tank and thus is prone to instability. You say your tank is cycled, but are the bacteria getting any 'food' at present? If not, it might be good to provide the tank with a piece of dead shrimp or a some household ammonia to see how it handles the ammonia and nitrites before you add any fish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maoripho3nix Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 If you get a smaller tetra, like ember tetras, they will look more in proportion to your tank and you can have a larger group of them. You could get 10 embers, 1 oto and a couple of sparkling gourami which is a nice combination that I have in a small tank. Or, you could get an oto and a few small danios (they are very active and some species are very small so you can get a nice big school of them which looks very impressive). :bounce: Thanks for the info once again Jen. Ok so Ive ruled out the cories, and have definately decided on the oto as the bottom dweller. I like the ember tetras too, is there anything that grows around the same size but with maybe more colours?? I like neons or cardinals (more because of the glowing colours) but I dont think I will be able to fit them in. And yup I knew about the bioload, had a piece of the dead shrimp from earlier on in there. For now Im looking at just adding otos to aid in cleaning up the algae. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 ... and have definately decided on the oto as the bottom dweller. They stay small, and like to eat algae, but they don't exactly spend a lot of time on the bottom. They also need to eat quite a lot - cucumber, algae tablets, etc. ... I like the ember tetras too, is there anything that grows around the same size but with maybe more colours?? I like neons or cardinals (more because of the glowing colours) but I dont think I will be able to fit them in. The embers will colour up quite a bit with good food...but they are only the one colour. As for other colourful small fish, maybe you might like a couple of fancy guppies instead. Or a couple of killies (they have amazing colours and there are a number of people on here who could 'hook you up.') If you really like neons, maybe you should go for them. I like them too but they can be very shy if they don't have any dither fish to give them confidence. I find danios very good and confident, very fun to watch as opposed to neons who often hide or just sit there in the water when you are looking at them! Celestial pearl danios would be great, but they cost a bit. :roll: You could always just go with some dwarf loaches. They are great to watch so even if your tank only had a group of them and an oto it would be quite interesting. Look up dwarf chain loach. They need to be in a group of at least 5, but they would look great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zev Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Hillstream loaches make good bottom dwellers as well. As far as colourful fish go, have a look through the POTM entries and winners, either in the competition section or here and see if anything sparks your interest, then ask away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 I have 2 oto and they do like to hang out together a lot of time. I don't rely on them as fish to 'watch' like the cories and the tetras as they are often stationary stuck to the glass or a leaf or sometimes hiding. Sometimes they get a rocket up their tails and zip around like crazy and that's fun to watch but I do keep them for their algae cleaning qualities rather than anything else. They like algae wafers and will glue themselves to one so the cories can't get to it, that's also pretty funny. Cardinals or ember tetra would look great against your dark gravel. It's been said before but if you go that way get cardinals over neons because they are generally hardier and of course have more colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maoripho3nix Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Update: I now have some otos in the tank! 8) Went to 3 LFS, and only one had them (animates). They had a special on, buy 2 get one free, so I ended up with 3 otos. The smallest one zips around a bit, the medium and big sized one are quite calm. They are already doin what they do best and have cleaned up about 30% of the algae thats in the tank. I read somewhere that otos are known to die without cause within the first month. Fingers crossed mine will be fine. I also read that best results came from drip acclimation, so I decided to do this aswell. Finally have some fauna in the tank :bounce: Will update with pics tomorrow once they clean off some algae :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisP Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Speaking of ottos dieing.... Do they do this in NZ aswell? Thing that i've heard that makes the most sense to me is that they liver gets damage when they are caught... But how long does it take them to get from south america to nz...? (they are from SA right...? lol) Mine are all doing fine. Pointy tails aswell which i read is a good sign. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 they are sensitive to water conditions and quality. swings in water parameters are usually why they die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisP Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Really? Cant say i look after my water parameters much.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Congrats!! :bounce: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maoripho3nix Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Speaking of ottos dieing.... Do they do this in NZ aswell? Thing that i've heard that makes the most sense to me is that they liver gets damage when they are caught... I found a website with studies towards otos, and it seems that your pretty close to what they say too. A lot of techniques are used to catch them because of their natural size and instinct to escape. This website page explains. Apparently some sedative chemical is used to stun the oto. The website itself has good basic info on the otos. they are sensitive to water conditions and quality. swings in water parameters are usually why they die. Couldnt rule that out as a possibility as this would affect all fish. I took this in consideration when acclimatising, drip fed the water from my aquarium, into the bag they were in, over a one hour period instead. I had read on another oto site that this method reduced the stress from water parameter changes in acclimatising, which Im sure is the same for most fish anyway. But as with all fish the water quality has to be precise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maoripho3nix Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Congrats!! :bounce: Thanks Jen They are doing well so far, have checked on them, tried not to bother them too much with the lights, but got a quick pic while i was looking Sorry about the reflections, still not sure how to take good photos through glass :oops: :bounce: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 aren't they cool little guys! I read that stuff about otos being sensitive and it nearly put me off getting them but the algae ruled my decision in the end! The only time they have been more sensitive than my other fish is when they lived (with everyone else) in a chilly bin for a couple of days while i swapped out the substrate, one of them stayed pale for a few days. Mine have different markings on the tail so I can tell them apart - Sharky 1 and 2 - Sharky 1 definitely the crazy hungry one, Sharky 2 more sensitive and composed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maoripho3nix Posted March 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 Update: Started the PMDD today, hopefully the plants will approve. Also went to KiwiPetz and got some Neon Tetra :bounce: was a choice between them and Silver tips or guppies. 6 Neons will do for now. I'm planning on getting 2 more tanks, one larger tropical, one large for a native CW biotope. The otos have kept the algae at bay, still some left on the glosso but not as bad as it was. The tetras have been curious about them and stuck next to them but the otos end up blitzing across the tank :lol: Neons and Guppies, any good together?? I wanted the tetras for size and schooling as the current tank is only small. But the Guppies they had (not for sale btw) at KiwiPetz were mesmerizing Will update with a pic, but will a pair of guppies be ok in my tank??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted March 26, 2010 Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 I'm planning on getting 2 more tanks, one larger tropical, one large for a native CW biotope. MTS is setting in Will update with a pic, but will a pair of guppies be ok in my tank??? A pair will be, but the resulting fry will not be. I'd hold off on a pair until you have another tank that fry can be moved into, just have males for the time being. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maoripho3nix Posted March 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 MTS is setting in :lol: :lol: I guess the hobby has sunk in now. Its been educational for me and the kids love the tank/fish too. A pair will be, but the resulting fry will not be. I'd hold off on a pair until you have another tank that fry can be moved into, just have males for the time being. Cool thanks Sam, is it the males that are most colourful?? yeah im definately not at the stage where I can take on fry/breeding. Loved the colour on them. Might have to find a couple male guppies for now :lol: Once I get the larger tropical setup then Ill transfer it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneeyedfrog Posted March 26, 2010 Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 There are some really lovely male guppies around. I have had a couple of people tell me they got silvertips only to find they nipped their other fish so they got rid of them. I really liked the look of them but that put me off. It may depend on what they are with but I would ask around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ras Posted March 26, 2010 Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 Couldn't get any other info.. don't worry I'm not the sort of person to use that info if i could.. just playin around with photoshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maoripho3nix Posted March 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 just playin around with photoshop. :lol: :lol: :lol: Good luck tryna get the rest of the info (if you were to try) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maoripho3nix Posted March 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 Heres some pics Still not good at taking proper photos (techniques, settings) my camera is a Sony DSC-H7, any help would be great. :bounce: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted March 27, 2010 Report Share Posted March 27, 2010 I have a Sony DSC-F828 which is now 6 years old. I aim, wait for the "beep beep" that tells me it has focussed on something, then I push the button. I do this hundreds of times and sometimes I get 1 or 2 good photos out of it 8) To photograph the fish and tanks, do it at night with all the curtains pulled to stop reflections. Have as much lighting on the tank as possible (and I turn off the main room lights) and the shutter speed as fast as possible (so I have been told but I don't know how to change it). I have tried reading the instruction manual but it appears to be in Greek and it uses lots of terms I do not understand. It helps to have the camera on a tripod, or box, to keep it steady. If you use the flash, aim at a slight angle to avoid the flash reflecting off the glass. I have a separate flash I can attach (more powerful than the one built in) which helps. However you do it, prepare to get lots of useless photos and only a few goodies :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supasi Posted March 27, 2010 Report Share Posted March 27, 2010 Heres some pics Still not good at taking proper photos (techniques, settings) my camera is a Sony DSC-H7, any help would be great. :bounce: See Here for an article on photography of fish in tanks HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maoripho3nix Posted March 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 Update: Fert too soon? or maybe too much light. Either way the algae has grown, the brown algae has been kept down by the otos but there is now green stringy algae (sorry not sure of the "proper" name) on some plants and parts of the glass. There is also the green algae in places now. Yep its normal, but so ugly :evil: Ive decided on a blackout for now, obviously the fish dont mind, but the plants will The plants havent stopped growing though, ive noticed the glosso down the heater end of the tank is carpeting better than the glosso down the opposite end. But for now the tank is in darkness, hopefully this will slow down and maybe stop the rapid takeover, and the plants might just have that chance to compete and that will result in less algae and a happy me :lol: Is stringy algae common?? or has it hijacked its way in when i planted the glosso?? From when i got the brown algae spots i reduce the lighting down to 10 hrs, and the otos have eaten most of it away aswell. But now there is stringy algae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 Blackout isn't going to help anything. It will appear to work but your plants will stop growing during that time so when you turn everything back on you will have the same problem again. I would add some fast growing stem plants (even if it is just a temporary measure) and fertilise with trace (excess trace nutrients will not cause algae). Do a 50% water change every week to reset the nutrients and make sure you don't have any ammonia as ammonia WILL cause algae. Get those plants growing so that the algae doesnt have a chance. Remove what algae you can see and it will slowly go away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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