MDF Aquarium Stand

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

maybe - what are your tank dimensions and the volume of water in it ?

I think I will go with the overlay doors. There will be a solid 600x600 panel at the back and a 292x600 on either side running up to the front. The top surface will be supported on all side except the front, is this okay?

Thanks

-Sam

[SamH]

54 litre, just a standard 600x300x300mm tank. So it's not huge, almost a nano

[smidey]

I think I will go with the overlay doors. There will be a solid 600x600 panel at the back and a 292x600 on either side running up to the front. The top surface will be supported on all side except the front, is this okay?

Thanks

-Sam

extend the end panels back so the back panel goes in between them.

i would put a central support panel if i was you or the top panel may/will sag putting stress on the tank.

[Carlos & Siran]

extend the end panels back so the back panel goes in between them.

i would put a central support panel if i was you or the top panel may/will sag putting stress on the tank.

And put all your doors out of square, making them bind and impossible to adjust

[smidey]

And put all your doors out of square, making them bind and impossible to adjust

good quality hinges will be easily adjusted with overlay doors. with inset doors you will have an issue if the cab gets out of square

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

if i were building this stand i would do the following

timber frame - 574x274 and a center brace - x2

back panel - 610 x height

front panel - 610 x height - and then cut this into 3 along the 610 width - 2x will be height of the frame above so 2" high and the rest will be used for doors which you will then cut vertically. else if you use fill height for doors they will rub on carpet or flooring.

side panels - 274 x height - x2

Top - 610 x 310

Bottom (2 choices) - 610 x 310 to be as low as you can

or 574 x 274 to become a shelf in the bottom of the cabinet

[smidey]

i don't believe solid timber would be of any benefit for a stand of this size. timber, with its grain can be more of a hinderance than a help in this scale.

[SamH]

Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated 8)

@ Smidey: I can't really put a central support if I want to have a sump as well Why should the end panels be extended over the back panel?

@ Skippy: I also can't have anything 610 really, standard MDF is 2400x600 and this stand would use one sheet with almost no waste at all. Timber frame isn't viable also, too much hassle on top of MDF, may aswell just build a timber one.

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

the small amount of timber is used inside the frame not on top of - i use it to give the stand a bit of strength and something to screw the mdf panels to - i used over 200 screws in my last stand but that was pretty big.

i only suggest 610 and 310 so that you had a little bit of overhang but not required on my stands i have that so i could put an edging around to hide the poly and the bottom of the tank

[Carlos & Siran]

The whole shebang's gonna weigh around 65 odd kgs yeah?That's not really significant, I wouldn't bother with central support, just a good solid top, say 25mm.

To be honest I'd find making stand for such a little tank a hassle, you could get away with buying a nice coffee table from the OP shop, or a stylish TV stand, or even a nice chest.

good quality hinges will be easily adjusted with overlay doors. with inset doors you will have an issue if the cab gets out of square

I know of no adjustable hinges that can shape the top of the doors(inlay or overly makes no difference in this case) to the shape of a sagging top, and I've fairly extensive experience with Blum and hettich....

[SamH]

To be honest I'd find making stand for such a little tank a hassle, you could get away with buying a nice coffee table from the OP shop, or a stylish TV stand, or even a nice chest.

Looks are everything to my mother :lol: Plus I want to improve my construction skills and a tank with a custom perfect fitting stand for around $30.00 isn't bad 8)

[smidey]

Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated 8)

@ Smidey: I can't really put a central support if I want to have a sump as well Why should the end panels be extended over the back panel?

you will need it so maybe cut out an arrch or leave just a strip at the front. extend the ends back so it looks mint when you paint it

[livingart]

i have a stand the same size

have a piece of 20mm ply for tank to sit on

no central support seems to have lasted the last couple of years

[SamH]

you will need it so maybe cut out an arrch or leave just a strip at the front. extend the ends back so it looks mint when you paint it

Is that for structural reasons or for aesthetics?

i have a stand the same size

have a piece of 20mm ply for tank to sit on

no central support seems to have lasted the last couple of years

Made from?

[livingart]

rest made from mdf

just a ply base for tank to sit on

[SamH]

rest made from mdf

just a ply base for tank to sit on

Excellent, just the sort of response I need

If all goes to plan then I should have it all done by this weekend

[SamH]

Can anyone understand that? If so, will it work?

[smidey]

your deductions for the top & bottom need to be the thickness of the MDF, either 16 or 18 rather than 20 for the front edges to line up & the gaps between the doors & carcass to be even.

also take into account the thickness of the saw blade, you have 8 cuts (including trimming the first edge) at 5mm each cut which equals 40mm of material that will turn into dust.

[SamH]

Thanks

I'm getting Bunnings to cut it, how do I tell them that? In the plan?

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

just take that picture into them and say - thats what i want - or just take the sizes into them

just one note - your doors - will be 20mm short - i dont think you need that much to be taken off - may 10mm max but close to 6mm i reckon

[smidey]

make the top & ends the same depth (280mm) & fix the back overlay. you can keep the base the same or 20mm deeper (300mm) to create a little "foot" under the doors that will stick out 2mm proud of the door faces. the doors can be fitted overlay onto the ends.

it's not how i would make it but it is keeping the cutting list simpler this way.

[SamH]

make the top & ends the same depth (280mm) & fix the back overlay. you can keep the base the same or 20mm deeper (300mm) to create a little "foot" under the doors that will stick out 2mm proud of the door faces. the doors can be fitted overlay onto the ends.

So the tank overhangs by 20mm on the front but the doors sit on top of the base?

[smidey]

no, you don't want the tank overhanging. what size is it? the top plus the thickness of the back 16/18 is the depth so it has an overall depth of 296/298mm.

[smidey]

i tell you what, give me the size of the tank & the overall size of teh cab & i will draw one up tomorrow morning & do a cutting list.

[SamH]

i tell you what, give me the size of the tank & the overall size of teh cab & i will draw one up tomorrow morning & do a cutting list.

Brief:

Tank size is 600mm long x 300mm wide, height is 300mm but irrelevant. Must be made from a single 2400x600mm 18mm sheet of MDF using only MDF. Cutting instructions must be simple and use as few cuts as possible. Aesthetics are also very important.

:lol: