breakaway Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 Hi All, I have a very very bad algae problem. The dastardly :lol: algae is everywhere. On the heater, on the filter, tank walls. There is a green film of algae everywhere. I have always avoided adding unwanted chemicals into the fish tank, like chemical algae removers, and I would still like to keep my tank chemical free. But I have to somehow get rid of this algae. It just wont go. Its green and its everywhere. It is growing on the plants and causing them to stop recieving light from the 2 floro bulbs. The ambulias "open" during the day and "close" in the evening. Due to this algae problem, the algae is on the leaves and some of them are stuck closed and some of them are stuck open. Even my so called "bananna plant" that flourishing a week or two ago looks very pale green instead of the usual bright green. Please guys, I need help or I might loose all plants in the tank. Take a look at my tank below, and see what the algae has made it. :evil: Before: http://www.freewebs.com/p00phase/Before ... 0LoRes.jpg Note: The Grassy Plant in foreground had to be removed because it died due to excess algae growing on leaves. The bananna plant has not been added yet. After Heavy Algae Attack: Green Film of Algae on Ambulia Another Photo like the one Above, here there is more damage. Even the gravel has algae growing on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_from_nz Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 go to the thread "algea - an overview" (i think that is what it is called) that has a link that will tell you what algea is caused by what, also do a full range of tests algea will only grow when there is a surplus of nutrients (plants use nutrients in a specific ratio and will only use as much as the limiting nutrient then the unused nutrients go to feed algea, -this is kinda a bad explination maybe if somone knows what i mean they can word it better ) Good luck Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakaway Posted November 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 Some more photos from before the algae rampage began: http://www.freewebs.com/p00phase/Left%2 ... 202004.JPG http://www.freewebs.com/p00phase/Right% ... 202004.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cees Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 a reminder http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?t=3880 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 Cyano, a dose of erythromycin will clear it right up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakaway Posted November 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 What quantity? Where do I get it from? Isnt it a type of antibiotic? Ill do anything to clear that monstrous algae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kim Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 1 500mg tab for 90L of water , dose twice use cycle after useing it you can try your dr, dentist , vet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 Cyno is caused in two ways but one is most common: The most common is in new tanks where there is excess phosphates and no nitrates (since the filter isn't cycled). Cyno bacteria have the ability to fix the dissolved atmospheric nitrogen out of the water. If there are no nitrates you may be doing too many water changes or your filter may not be working properly. A good nitrate level is 5-20ppm. This will stop cyno and also reduce the chance of an algae outbreak. Also, lots of airation and water current in the tank can stop it forming even if the conditions are right for it. The other way is excess nitrates and excess phosphates. The Cyno loves this condition. Water changes will usually fix the problem but a long term solution is required to stop it happening again. You need to find out why the nitrates were so high. It's either too much food or too long between water changes. Erethromycin is only a temporary fix. While it works really well at killing the cyno, it will also kill your filter bacteria. It's an anti-bacterial. It's better to find the cause and remove it. You won't need to cycle your tank again either (which will probably cause cyno again too). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 The two times I used it I didn't need to re-cycle the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herefishiefishie Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 How many hours a day do you have the lights on for?? to much light increases algae growth. Excessive Phosphates may be the problem, the thing is plants need phosphate to gow. there will always be some residual algae in a planted tank because it is impossible to keep the water completely phosphate free. The use of chemicals named above are only a short term fix. Add an iron-containing trace element mix, Grow fast-growing plant species that can efficiently extract nutrients, Do not use phosphate buffers to control pH. Use of these buffers may produce phosphate concentrations as high as 100ppm, almost certainly resulting in very impressive algae blooms. the use of agae eaters will help. A good no fuss long term fix is a UV steriliser. Frenchy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 True, plants do need phosphate, but only at 20-30ppb, not 50+ times this level. Many people having trouble with algae or cyno have phosphate levels over 1ppm. Basically if phosphate shows on a comercially available test kit then there is too much phosphate. If the plants are growing well and all other macro and micro nutrients are supplied in the correct balance, phosphate then becomes the limiting factor to plant and algae growth. The plants will easily out compete algae for the free phosphate. Fish food will usually supply enough phosphate. As long as no other phosphate is added to the tank (water changes) then it is very possible to control phosphate down to the ppb (parts per billion) range. I use Reverse Osmosis water for this very reason. I can precisely control exactly what goes into the tank... Too much light will only increase algae growth if there is an imbalance. If the light level and duration is in balance with the fertiliser (nutrients) then there will be no visible algae. My planted tanks have been algae free for the last 7 years since I learned about how to control it. I keep refering to this article but it's worth the time and effort to read and understand. The principals in it are excellent and have never failed on any tank I've helped setup or fix. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertilize ... onlin.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooky Posted November 15, 2004 Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 I have had some success following the ideas in that article too. I've only been playing the plant game seriously for about four months and I haven't got things right yet, but I have managed to limit my algae growth problems. I just use a general phosphate-free aquarium fertiliser rather than being too careful about what the tank is actually lacking (I think this is where I go wrong, I'm probably still missing something). I also add CO2. Does anyone know of more recent information than what thekrib.com has ? There is a lot of guess work and loose ends in the Sears-Conlin article. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kylefish02 Posted November 15, 2004 Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 get some bristlenose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted November 15, 2004 Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 Bristlenose do not touch blue-green algae, at least mine don't, and at times I have doozy b/g growing. Alan 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wok Posted November 15, 2004 Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 My bristlnose don't touch it either. comes off quite easily so I use the gravel cleaner to syphon most of it off the gravel and plants. the bits on the glass I just wipe off. Annoying but cleans the tank up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted November 15, 2004 Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 The Sears-Conlin report doesn't lock things down in rock but it's pretty close. I haven't really changed anything in their fertiliser mix. It's really quite simple, supply all the correct macro and micro nutrients in about the quantities they suggest and phosphate is the limiting factor. Many water supplies in NZ and around the world are rich in phosphates. You need to have water that's pretty close to 0ppb in all nutrients if you want to successfully control exactly what goes into your tank. If you know what quantity of nutrients are in your tap water you can make allowance for them in your fertiliser mix. If you don't know, then you need to find out. Keep well away from liquid fertilisers that contain phosphate. They almost all have far to much phosphate in them. If they don't list the ingredients then don't buy it. If you use solid fertiliser tablets in the substrate, they can contain phosphate but don't need to have a lot. Make sure the phosphate cannot leach into the water. Don't use solid fertiliser tablets if you have an undergravel filter. I've tried several different ways to keep plants and to be algae free I've always ended back using the basic principals found in the Sears-Conlin report. Once you get everything going really well you'll actually find you'll end up with a slight nitrate and phosphate deficiency. I have to add both to my tank to keep the levels high enough for good growth but low enough so visible algae doesn't form. Fish food is a good source but doesn't quite supply all that's needed. My fertiliser is both nitrate and phosphate free and quite rich in iron. It's basically the same as the PMDD in the Sears-Conlin report. Get some good algae eaters too. They'll eat the algae you can't see. If you can see the aglae, they usually won't eat it. Bristlenose is pretty good at cleaning up but can be a bit hard on some delicate plants. SAE's are the best. They're really busy but only eat algae in it's soft stage, - where you can't see it. Don't give up, you'll find that magic mix that work for you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakaway Posted November 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 Hay Guys Thanx for all the valuable input. I used to have a bristlenose but he didnt seem to want the algae. For now, I guess Ill just stick with cleaning. If the algae doesnt clear up in the next few weeks, then I will add the erethromycin tabs. Here is a photo of the tank - I cleaned and re planted it (Taken today Monday 15th November 2004) Plz tell me what you think of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted November 15, 2004 Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 Looks good! However, please consider trying to find out why you're getting cyno to start with. Erethro was a prescription drug when I got it last. I had to get a vet to prescribe it for me. So, it's going to cost you a few bucks to get some. A little bit of effort and a couple of test kits should be able to tell you if phosphate and/or nitrate is your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakaway Posted November 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 Hi Warren Thanx for the input. I will be looking into why Im getting the cyno. Thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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