livingart Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 regular over feeding can build up internal fat deposits that will impact on other organs can lower fertility and cause arterial problems same with feeding too much animal protein too early in life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Mbd can also be caused by feeding foods (usually the wrong greens) that can block the utilisation of calcium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Varanophile Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 regular over feeding can build up internal fat deposits that will impact on other organs can lower fertility and cause arterial problems same with feeding too much animal protein too early in life I feed huge numbers of locusts and crickets and mealworms and bees....no issues with overweight animals. But yes I agree if you feed foods high in fat like pinkies and waxies then you would have an issue. You are right about the animal protein for reptiles, especially for beardies it is a no go area...maybe once or twice year ok. Anyone had a dragon get obese from just insects (no waxies though) ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Varanophile Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Mbd can also be caused by feeding foods (usually the wrong greens) that can block the utilisation of calcium Ha ha. Forgot about that. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneaky2 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Mbd can also be caused by feeding foods (usually the wrong greens) that can block the utilisation of calcium vegies high in osilactic acid(cant know the spelling) are bad bad bad. brocili,beans,silverbeet e.c.t theres a list out there on the interweb,google will know where to find it :dunno: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneaky2 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 oooops just read the rest of it. barbarta seem to be almost a totaly different animal to vitties. from me very patchy memory they found all the way down the east coast.or at least as far as sydney(saw many there waaaaay back in 87) the brisbane type has a spiny tail compared to the sydney type. would seen to me the type we have over here is sydney or south of...all the ones iv bred and raised over the years are very cold tolerent(AFTER THE FIRST YEAR) and seem to prefer it that way. in the middle of winter when me waterdragons are hibernating,the barbas are still sunning themselves on a sunny day although not feeding.they start head bobing and mating around mid august while the waterdragons are only just emerging. the trick seems to be give them an elevated dryish nook or cave to hang out in during winter wet days,as damp wet ground environment(grass) over winter will lead to fungis in nz as aussie has mostly dry winter the more northerly you go..(more aboreal than vitties yes) in brisbane they seem to become active and mate around august,feed up, lay eggs and then when it gets too hot spend most of summer hiding from the heat and only coming out in the morning and evening.also noticed wild populations very skinny in august when mating n then stack on the condition over summer. in nz active all summer OUTSIDE....p.s all NZ observations from AUCKLAND(JAFA) NORTH. with no HEATING. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 For example if a beardie comes across a large food source in the wild he will pig out, and often there will be massive numbers of locusts for several weeks in a row. He won't think, 'hmmmm maybe I should watch my weight'. You must have all heard about only feeding young prey items that are less in length than the width of the dragons head- OMG...you really think that a baby beardie in the wild uses this method to assess whether it eats a bug?????? so you would feed hatchlings adult locusts and crickets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 you really think that a baby beardie in the wild uses this method to assess whether it eats a bug??????no they have little gauges that if the prey item doesn't fit in they can't eat it so you would feed hatchlings adult locusts and crickets? sounds like thats whats being advocated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Thats what I feed mine, but not adult bugs. They will happily eat bugs bigger than the distance between the eyes but not the distance between the nose and the tail tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FACEAnthrax Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 so you would feed hatchlings adult locusts and crickets? I have to agree with varanophile on this. No of course you wouldn't feed an adult locust to a new hatching it'd be common sense (not to say they wouldn't try and eat them in the wild and spit them back up), but I see no problem feeding a medium to large nymph locusts to a younger beardy say 9-10inchs, they're bigger than the gap between their eyes but they have no problem crunching them down. I have also noticed a change with using small locust compared to larger ones as feeders, being feed mainly the small locusts poops became very hard, dry and less healthy looking compared to those feed the larger size. I presume this is because there is more moisture and more meat to chitin within the larger locusts being eaten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 No of course you wouldn't feed an adult locust to a new hatching it'd be common sense (not to say they wouldn't try and eat them in the wild and spit them back up), but I see no problem feeding a medium to large nymph locusts to a younger beardy say 9-10inchs, they're bigger than the gap between their eyes but they have no problem crunching them down. 9-10inch beardie should be on adult insects. there is merit to feeding smaller bugs to smaller animals. especially hatchlings. adult brown tree frogs seem to prefer 10mm crickets or smaller as an example. most of the adults i put in seem to get ignored. but agree no need to be silly about it. the between the eye thing is just a guide and for novice's and i think it serves a purpose. after the first few months most herps will comfortably take large insects. I have also noticed a change with using small locust compared to larger ones as feeders, being feed mainly the small locusts poops became very hard, dry and less healthy looking compared to those feed the larger size. I presume this is because there is more moisture and more meat to chitin within the larger locusts being eaten. I notice the opposite. when feeding large animals on loads of fair sized prey they seem to have consistant stools. feed large ones you can often make out wings and what not in the stool. feed mealworms by the 100 and you get chitin dynamite :sml2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madDC4 Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Hey guys, great information, thanks for the work putting this thread together! Taking it all in…. One thing that is bothering me, there seems to be a massive paranoia out there (in the internet world) about feeding habits of baby beardies. I find conflicting information on the internet, answer forums etc… about the quantity of crickets that a baby beardie should / will eat. Some people say per day - 10, some say 30, some say 100…. Not consistent… From you peoples (on this forum) experience, what would be normal baby beardie eating habits...... baby beardie is max 5.5 - 6 inches in length… I am following the advice on this forum, to feed 2-3 times a day…. Now this is what has been working for me……. I am feeding it twice a day, 5 out of 7 days a week.. (3 times every other day) Each feeding it will eat 3 - 5 crickets (sometimes chuck in a wax moth or meal worm in there too , so in total would be 3-7 live feed at least twice a day ) When I first put live feed in, it will get excited and hunt down the food very quickly, then after 3 - 5 crickets… I have found it just wanders off, climbs up the log, sits under UV light and chills out and will ignore any more live feed I put in there, sometimes it will not even look at it and just want to start climbing everything in its enclosure. So I assume this is enough, but so much conflicting information about what is enough, you can’t force it to eat? It is active, alert, wanders around, from time to time wanders around sticking tongue out tasting different things, sometimes basks under UV light or the heat lamp… seems very happy?? It has water supply, changed daily. It has fresh veges daily. It gets mist daily. Bath once a week. Sometimes it will drink water drips from my finger tip Does not seem stressed, very friendly to walk on hand. UV light and heat lamp etc etc Dusting crickets with calcium. This all seems normal to me? Anything from this list I should not be doing? Any advice surrounding the quantities that is normal? Thanks. Because all these people saying 30-100 a day is starting to get me worried !!!!! Because if this isn’t normal, then I am stumped as to how to force it to eat more. Help is much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Sounds like plenty of food to me. Plenty of calcium at that age. If it eats what it wants three times a day it is doing pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madDC4 Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 OK, cheers for the reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 it varies a lot due to some people keeping them at different temps to others. also size of feeder insect may create a big variance. feed what ever it will eat within 5-10mins a couple of times a day is probably a good guide.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madDC4 Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Came home from work today and little dragon is shedding skin. First time... quite a surprise to see it like that.... had lost its appetite last day or two and I thought it was fairly strange, as it was eating well and eating consistent for the past month. I think it is around 2 months old now. Just interesting to watch. Might post a pic if people are interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 It is when they usually don't eat much for a few days. A spray with warm water helps them shed. I usually put them in a plastic container and spray them then let them sit in it for 10 minutes or so. You need to watch that they have have shed completely. If they don't shed their tail or feet properly it can restrict blood flow and can cause the loss of the bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madDC4 Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 OK thanks. The tail has mostly shed, except a ring around the tip which is hanging on.. most back and belly has shed, just has a collar of old skin on front legs and also skin on its head which is flaking up. Will keep an eye on it and add moisture and mist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 The feet and tip of the tail are the bits to watch. Just watch that you don't make the enclosure too moist as that can cause problems too. That is why I put them in a container and then spray them. With the adults, if they look like they are having problems I soak them for a while in warm water in the tub. I have one in there at the moment.She has been a bit slow completing the shedding but she also seems to have problems hydrating eggs so am seeing if this improves both things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FACEAnthrax Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Stoked, my youngest dragon has finally started eating all her greens after much trial and error with them. Turns out she hates butternut squash, who knew lol. :facepalm: Mean while the other dragons just eat anything you put in front of them. Picky little bugger she is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madDC4 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Stoked, my youngest dragon has finally started eating all her greens after much trial and error with them. Turns out she hates butternut squash, who knew lol. :facepalm: Mean while the other dragons just eat anything you put in front of them. Picky little bugger she is. How old are they now they are eating greens? and what are they eating? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FACEAnthrax Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 How old are they now they are eating greens? and what are they eating? Thanks! Heya, my wee one that's finally gotten into it a around 6months old juv, the others are full adults, mainly eating rocket, dandelion, endive, squash(for the ones that will eat it) and mustard greens. With bits of apple and capsicum every so often. The greens are easily gotten through a bag of mesclun salad from the supermarket, but you got watch out for the ones with spinach in them as it and hinder calcium absorption, easy to just pick it out though. They also all get a selection of insects, locusts, wax worms, mealworms etc. with the appropriate powders on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FACEAnthrax Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Win made myself a mint new background today after getting a lovely pic of one of my girls (7months old,18 inches), as a note the lizards colours haven't been edited etc. I'll make it smaller to show on page and pop a link below of a full size 1920x1080 background just incase someone wants it too Link to 1920x1080 full size image for PC background: http://i.imgur.com/7lKMV.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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