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RO DI units


skuzza

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Is tap water really that bad.

if you have tested your tap water and are happy with the levels you have found then i guess you could use it.

think about collecting natural seawater....

"don't collect NSW after rain as the runoff is bad".... thats how most of our drinking water is collected, run off either in the waitakere's or even via the Waikato.....

I have not yet seen a good looking AKL based tank using tapwater as makeup, tho it may be possible in other locations.

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eg: christchurch seems to have very good water from what i've read. auckland,... bah! crap!

Christchurch water is mineral water and is not treated with any chemicals. However I personally don't think you should be using it un-filtered, for top-off or saltwater mix. There has to be lots of minerals etc in there that have an effect on the tank.

Is tap water that bad? Yes.

Pie

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Any comments on using rain water other than it being quite soft? I've used to for years with my Discus, done basic water tests on it, all clear, and checked with NIWA who say no pollutants because of winds keeping air clean (yeah for windy wellington!).

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The phos here in HB is pretty bad too, 6-8ppm out of the tap. No good for planted tanks unless you want green algae. No good for salt mix either as the phos strips the calcium. I've been using just RO for years now, - the only way to have an algae free planted tank. Even the seawater here can have up to 1ppm phos due to 13+ rivers emptying in Hawke Bay...

Why do you use a DI after the RO for marines?. A good RO removes 99.95% of all dissolved molecules to start with. The tapwater isn't all that bad in NZ to start with, just not quite good enough for some of the more sensitive artificial environments like Marine Tanks and Planted freshwater tanks with the same lighting as a marine...

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Why do you use a DI after the RO for marines?. A good RO removes 99.95% of all dissolved molecules to start with

Thats exactly why, because RO isn't 100%. With marine's (or rather reef tanks), when you're talking about anything over 0.03ppm of phosphate = bad for corals then you want to get rid of as much crap as possible. Additionally, RO by itself doesn't last long and is relatively expensive. DI (after RO) does last long (a year or more). Having pre-filters and activated carbon filters prior to the RO means even longer lasting for both RO and DI. Having pre-filter, activated carbon, RO then DI means you're covering your arse by filtering as much bad stuff as possible - even that extra 0.05% means alot in a reef tank.

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RO is the cheapest form of water purification by a long shot... Try using just DI on it's own and you'll pay megabucks for resin (or regen it every week or so). The DI only lasts so long because there is stuff all for it to do after the RO to start with. A good RO will produce about 70000L of water on one membrane and set of pre and post filters. I get over 100000L out of mine...

No need for DI on fresh water tanks. Also, DI would be detrimental as it replaces whatever is in the water with sodium ions, - less than desirable in a planted tank but ok in a marine.

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Additionally, RO by itself doesn't last long and is relatively expensive.

This is your original post, nothing to do with what I said...

RO not only last much longer than any other type of purifier but it's also the cheapest water purifier, especially for how effective it is. It might only remove 99.5% but so does DI.

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The RO/DI concept is just a way to ensure that you are getting as close to distilled water as possible. Because the reef tankers use evaporation to suppliment calcium hydroxide (Kalkwasser) and to avoid heat, its just a case of not wating to put anything else in except whats been taken out by evaporation.

Same deal with saltmix, just add water. By water they mean water, not 'wet mineral soup'.

From what I understand RO and DI work quite differently. For example an RO unit will remove sediment, parisites etc from the water, DI cannot and does not do this. RO is a mechnical filter and DI is a chemical filter. As I understand it.

RO wastes a lot of water and good units are fairly expensive. The prefilters are only used to extend the life of the RO unit, which is mostly unded to extend the life of the DI media.

Warren is probably right about 'why' use DI when RO is so good. I am going with the sheep on this one and doing it because its the 'norm'. It costs me about $20 a year to run the DI, so if that saves one coral or fish every 3 years its paid for itself.

Pieman

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Since we're on the subject, would it matter if a DI filter is mounted horizontally instead of vertically? Just because the units won't fit in my stand vertically but WILL fit horizontally. Thought it'd be nice to actually have it in the stand instead of throwing them in a closet when I'm not using it like I am now...

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