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Tanks on cinder blocks


henward

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You could use the cinder blocks (we call them breeze blocks - basically hollow concrete blocks) for the uprights, then put wood over the top (spanning the whole length of the tank) and add polystyrene on top of that.

I don't see any problem as long as the whole thing is level, and as long as you have enough 'upright' parts that the timber doesn't sag in the middle.

As with anything this size & weight, check that the floor is structurally sound before you start as there will be a lot of weight involved!

Disclaimer: Personally I have only ever used timber stands so I have no specific experience using concrete blocks.

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Another idea ...maybe not cheaper is to use macro sleepers.

I have seen this done on a mates 6x2x2.

He cribloged short sleepers to provide a "leg" at each end, then ran sleepers along the "top" to form the base. Placed 5 mm or there abouts ply on that with poly on top top act as cushion.

Looks good (if you like that sort of thing), and works well.

Sump fits underneath and no issues with structural support ( i think).

HTH

Navarre

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I've seen it done with big tanks (600g!) but never done it myself. The biggest concern for me is that the edges of the tank aren't evenly supported as they would be with a length of steel or timber running under them. Unless it is crazy thick and the blocks are close together, ply of customwood will sag in between the blocks, remember that glass does not bend at all, so the ply/customwood won't do a very good job of spreading the load. At the very lesat I would build a 4x2 table-top to sit on top of the blocks.

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The tank in the pic is a 4ft. I can't see ply bowing in a gap the size as shown, even on a larger tank. Having the base means it is evenly supported. If the middle row was removed it would definitely sag. See I also have some blocks running the other way at the back too.

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Is it ply or chipboard? It looks pretty thick, and chipboard will be more rigid than ply. The gap doesn't look very big either, so it probably won't be a problem. But on an 8' tank you're going to need a heck of a lot of cinder blocks to keep the gaps that narrow.

Also, if you can see it sagging you have a big problem! Glass does not sag at all, so the sag may be less than 1mm but it would be enough to stop the ply spreading the load. Try wiggle the polystyrene in the middle of the gap between the blocks and see if there's any less weight on it than directly above the blocks. There shouldn't be if the tank is evenly supported, and given that you've had it set up like that for a long time now then I'm guessing there won't be!

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poly spreads weiiht well as well as wood

how bout puuting two layers of poly and 1 wood

this would give a better spread

Poly only absorbs small lumps and bumps, like a screw-head sticking up a few mm from the ply or a rough weld on a steel stand if you don't use any wood. It doesn't compress enough to absorb a gradual change like an uneven stand like mine was, if it did then it would gradually compress flat with the weight of the aquarium. If you want to use cinder blocks then it would be easy to build a nice level benchtop using 4x2 and ply for the tank to sit on, that would be much safer than just ply/customwood on top of the blocks.

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I remember having to line up the blocks first and swap them around as they were slightly uneven in size and it took a bit of shuffling to make sure they were even. I no longer have the tank and blocks so can't look but I am pretty sure it was chip board, not ply. The base was 1.5 - 2cm thick. The blocks are 19cm wide so the gap I had between them would have been about 22 - 25cm.

That tank ran for about 4 years sitting on those blocks. I had a 3ft in the lounge, also on blocks, that was set up even longer.

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... If you want to use cinder blocks then it would be easy to build a nice level benchtop using 4x2 and ply for the tank to sit on, that would be much safer than just ply/customwood on top of the blocks.

This gets my vote, too. Cinder/breeze blocks for the uprights, a nicely braced timber structure for the horizontal elements. The 4 x 2 horizontal bracing will spread the load beautifully across the bottom of the tank. And don't forget a layer of poly right under the glass!

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