TM Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I have a 100ml bottle of Levicare Plain Drench = 4% Solution of Levamisole. However i have lost my dosing guide and can't remember how much to add. I used to add it to a smallish tank with the fish in. Can anyone help? Also any idea on how long this would last/go off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 My maths was so far off on this. Read Ryans post below to get correct dose rate. Thanks Ryan for correcting it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TM Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Great thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 where can you get this stuff? My LFS does not sell any worming treatments and I think my guppy may have worms. he is bloated and I think i detect a little bit of red around his anus. How common are callumanus worms in NZ ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 You get it from a vet. I found only farm vets carry it (or have heard of it) some vets may order it in for you. Ask for Aviverm - usually around $18 for 50ml. It's a bird worming formula. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 yes I have some aviverm for my cockatiel but it's been in the cupboard for 2 years so not sure it's still good. I don't know for sure my fish has worms but is it safe to treat anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 oh and if i do use it, does the charcoal filter need to be removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Not sure if theres an expiry date for the stuff this is a link for proper dosing http://www.loaches.com/disease-treatmen ... chloride-1 - an interesting read, the instructions for dosing is at the bottom. It won't hurt the fish to treat them, weather they have worms or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caper Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Anytime you treat fish with meds you remove the carbon. The carbon will draw out the meds which you don't want to happen. Caper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 In my experience using levamisole i have found it to be a light sensitive med and fish will go off food for a few days after using.Hope it does the trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 Someone just linked to this post so I thought I had better correct the dosage rate that bilbo posted above, 1ml of 23% aviverm does 115L (2mg/L) so don't do 1ml per 4L as suggested.. If you did do it at the higher rate it shouldn't hurt your fish but according to the article it has no more affect on the parasites after 2mg/L so you would just be wasting meds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 thanks ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc360 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Sorry to drag up this thread but had three deaths in my tank, which has just come clear after being cloudy for a couple of weeks, upon closer inspection the fish all have redness around the anus and one had 5-6 of the above mentioned red worms coming out of the fish. Very Yucky!!! I inspected the remaining livestock and most fish look stressed and a number seem to show signs of these worms. Any help please will be much appreciated. Is Aviverm the right stuff to use in this instance? Mark -have you found any of the above products locally? Could you suggest where about to pick this product up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Definitely the right thing to use you have a Camallanus worm infection they are the worst type and you should treat all of your tanks that may have came in contact with any of those fish (either through nets or siphon hoses or anything).. It is likely that internal damage maybe done to some of the fish already but with treatment most should survive, don't forget to vacuum the gravel 24 hours after each treatment to get rid of the worms.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc360 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 cheers Ryan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 If the worm has an indirect life cycle (and I believe Callamanus sp. does) then the first stage larvae that are released from the adult worms within the fish will not be able to infect the fish since the fish is the definitive (final) host. It is only after the larvae are ingested by an intermediate host such as a mollusc or crustacean that it develops to third stage larvae that can infect the fish after the fish eats the intermediate host. As such, the best form of treatment would be a repeat dose about 3 weeks after the first treatment to catch the next batch of third stage larvae that have made it to the fish's intestinal tract again (most anthemlmintics work best on parasites within the intestines which is why they don't commonly work on the first/second stage larvae within the tank). We have used Levamisole baths used in clinic using a dose of 2mg/litre for 20 to 24 hours then repeating it in 3 weeks. Microscopic faecal parasite analysis confirms this is an effective treatment for the fish/amphibians we have treated. Not sure how it works for all types of fish though. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc360 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Ok got the Aviverm. About to treat 220ltrs so 1 and a half millilires? Might have to take a swig myself - couldn't really hurt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 How many milligrams per millilitre is the liquid? If you can possibly do it, it would be better to take the fish out and treat them in a bucket so that you can fully remove the chemical from their environment when the treatment is done. Then you can repeat the procedure in 3 weeks. In other words, it would not be ideal to do a partial water change and leave the rest of the wormer in the tank - worms do get resistance to such chemicals that way. That's just my opinion tho.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc360 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 How many milligrams per millilitre is the liquid? If you can possibly do it, it would be better to take the fish out and treat them in a bucket so that you can fully remove the chemical from their environment when the treatment is done. I see a lot of credit to what your saying, and it is not too difficult to temporarily house these fish for the time being. However how long will these fish have to stay out of the tank? Until they are fully wormed? (4-5 days) or until the larval stage of the parasite has starved in the main tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 A 24 hour treatment bath should be fine. After that, pop them back in the tank and dispose of the used batch of dewormer. In 3 weeks repeat the 24 hour bath with a fresh batch of dewormer. To minimise stress on the fish, it is fine to create the treatment bath using tank water (just so the water chemistry is the same) and it is important to keep the water heated for the 24 hour treatment (or as per normal). Afterward the fish will probably be off food for a few days but that is not a problem at all. This is just how we have done it it the aquatics ward but others may have more good ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc360 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 you've just swayed me, i was apprehensive about putting more stress on already stressed out fish but a 24 hour window is pretty easy to cope with. It is pretty quiet around here isn't it? Perhaps not many have had the pleasure of these blood sucking mites. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Haha! Actually mites require a different treatment! :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Sounds like some good advice, I would treat every fish in the tank though even if you can't see the worms they are probably affected as well, I would also be concerned about any worms/eggs that may be in the tank that you haven't treated and will be sticking the fish back into? But I don't understand the worms livecycle well enough to comment too much on that.. The article seems to suggest treating at weekly intervals and doing 3 treatments followed by water changes, I did think of the issue of leaving a half dose in the water but had assumed that maybe it had a half life and all decayed by itself? It would be good to find out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc360 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 The article seems to suggest treating at weekly intervals and doing 3 treatments followed by water changes, I did think of the issue of leaving a half dose in the water but had assumed that maybe it had a half life and all decayed by itself? It would be good to find out! i might do a little more research, at the vets tomorrow around the life cycle of worms and if this product decays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Most dewormers are not able to kill multiple life stages of worms. Many only work on adult worms within the intestinal tract. Thus any larvae that are migrating in the vicera, are free in the enviroent, or that are developing in an intermediate host will need to fully develop and move to the intestines of the definitive host to be susceptible to the medication. In most mammalian worms, this lifecycle development usually takes around 10 days to two weeks which is why we re-dose in 3 week intervals. It would definately be a good idea to treat all in the tank. It would also be a good idea to consider where the infection came from (feeding infested invertebrates for example). If necessary you can re-dose again if symptoms persist but if it were me I would avoid resistance by feeding fenbendazole instead (it also is delivered more effectively into the gastrointestinal tract). As to whether the medication degrades, it most certainly will, most medications do. The problem is the ever reduced diluted doses that could enable worms to develop resistance. It is always best to treat with a full strength dose. Would you feel confident taking a baby sized dose of antibiotics rather than an adult dose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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