lmsmith Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 I've just got a new 3ft tank (thanks Mystic! ) and would like to use it as a breeding tank. I would like to be able to divide it up 4 sections longways, and also each section in half again. I want each divider to be completely removable, and to leave no residue. I also would like only one filter and heater, so water needs to be able to flow through the whole tank. I was thinking of putting in acrylic dividers that are slightly smaller than the internal measurement of the tank. I would use airline split lengthwise to get the acrylic divider in and out, and to create a seal. I am planning on leaving about 3cm below the divider, and putting a sponge underneath (then I wont have the issue of needing a perfect fit at the bottom) so fry can't get through, and to allow water flow and bacteria to grow. The tanks will be barebottomed, so area for bacteria growth should be good. I don't think there will be enough water flow under the dividers, so I need to have some sort of holes in the dividers for water. I could either drill/laser cut small holes in the acrylic dividers, or cut a big hole out, and stick some flyscreen over the hole. That would allow better water flow, and wouldn't get clogged so easily. Is this a good idea? How much smaller that the tank should the dividers be to create a tight (but not too tight) fit with the airline hose? Am I going to potentially be able to have small dividers dividing divided sections in half? (wow that's a hard sentence! - see pic below) Feedback would be awesome, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 Should work, just make sure you get the dimensions right, will likely be a very fine line between slightly too small so with the airhose they don't fit snugly enough to stay and too large that you can't get them into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 it will be trial and error dependant on the wall thickness on the airhose the silicon airline maybe best dont put too much pressure on front and back panes of glass, may go ping ensure no grit on edges when setting it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simian Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 I am in the process of doing a very similar thing with a 4' except I am siliconing 10mm square rods as guides for the dividers I like the idea of the sponge on the bottom, it would want to be pretty coarse I'd say. Ill show you mine if you show me yours I am hopefully picking up the acrylic today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmsmith Posted September 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 I'm really lucky because my bf is doing a design degree, so he can figure out lots of this stuff for me, like sizes etc. I'd like to be able to do it myself - and thought about bracket or something, but I'd like whatever it is to be removable. The tank is pretty sturdy, 10mm glass, so I'm not worried about it going 'ping'! I figure if I make it 2mm smaller than the glass, that leaves a mm each side for the tubing right? livingart, I was gonna use silicone airtubing, thanks for reminding me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TM Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 The tank may not be perfectly square so 2mm might not be enough, can a suggest you do them on a slight angle and maybe make the dividers from thin plastic so they can bend in an arc from fron to back thus holding themselves in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 Mystic said no probs at all, need help - shes there. She also said that be careful because you will still find that you will need quite abit of water movement to get around that whole section, and you would find that in the end that doesnt have the filter in it will become stagnant really fast. Also, using sponge at the bottom is a good idea (we tried it) but also very small fry get stuck in it very easy and die. Plus you will need to clean it quiet often and that means trying to keep your fry etc to one side while you remove the sponge and clean it. Also, if you have the slightest gaps in the dividers, your fry WILL get through to the other side. She asked how you intend on holding up the dividers, and to remember that when you water change or drop the level at one end (or in one comparement) that your dividers will fall over with the weight of the water on the otherside. Yes water will flow slowly from the other side, but normally not fast enough to fill the compartment you are syphoning from. Cutting the glass to get a perfect fit to including your tubing is normally very hard, unless you have an endless supply of glass you can work with. One heater shouldnt be an issue (maybe put Poly at the back and sides of your tank to help the other compartments stay warmer) but remember that there WILL be a temp difference in the end compartments. Remember to put your heater in the middle one if possible. Glass would be best to use, as Perspex bends over a short time and will become bowed so ends up being a 'not so tight' fit. If you drill holes, they would have to be very tiny (we did this also) otherwise you have fry getting across or stuck in the holes. It also means the whole panel will need LOTS of holes as even half a panel of holes didnt seem to help at all. For fry you are best to use a completely sealed section, and for Breeders it shouldnt matter. But remember if one fish gets sick, the whole tank will get it fast because of it being 'open' as you can call it. (Not sealed off) HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 I have done this with a few tanks and have removable dividers for 2-3 tanks that I take in and out, I use the same theory, glass cut smaller with hose around the edges.. To keep the glass up I use extra spare suction cups on either side at the top and some rocks at the bottom, most of them have a gap at the bottom for water flow with gravel over it. It can be hard to get the divisions to stand up and I haven't found a very easy way to do it.. It is never very good for very young fry as they get through any hole, I have sealed dividers into one tank and cut off the corners putting flyscreen on either side to allow water flow but not let fish through. I still have to grow up the fry until they're big enough they don't get sucked through in guppy traps first though.. Filtration/heating is easy if you get an external filer or powerhead and use it to suck water out one end division and pump it back in the other end, the water has to flow through and get heated/filtered.. Good luck it is very handy when it works, just be very careful when doing water changes and cleaning because disasters are very easy to happen.. Oh also make the dividers high enough that a bigger fish doesn't jump them and eat the little ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmsmith Posted September 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 Cutting exactly isn't an issue as I have access to a laser cutter, so I can cut to exact specifications. I was thinking if a big chunk in the middle is cut out and filled with fly screen, it should allow good water flow, and also help with the siphoning issues. I was going to put the intake and outlet at different ends to keep the water flowing all the time. To prevent the fry problem I thought I'd put things that eat fry in between the guppy compartments - then I wont have imbreeding probs! I think I'll give it a go and let you guys know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 The tank may not be perfectly square so 2mm might not be enough, can a suggest you do them on a slight angle and maybe make the dividers from thin plastic so they can bend in an arc from fron to back thus holding themselves in place. good idea imsweet measure airline wall thickness, as it is 10mm glass and you are using laser cutter 1mm compression should be enough on silicon tubing, but try one and see before cutting the rest once in place give it a push to see how firm it is to withstand pressures as mentioned above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 Cutting exactly isn't an issue as I have access to a laser cutter, so I can cut to exact specifications. I was thinking if a big chunk in the middle is cut out and filled with fly screen, it should allow good water flow, and also help with the siphoning issues. What about using two layers of your acrylic for the dividers and sandwich some nylon mesh (same as the small nets) as this will be finer than flyscreen mesh to prevent the little blighters from escaping. Sandwiching will make the dividers stronger too as I suspect you will want to make the mesh holes as large as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted October 4, 2008 Report Share Posted October 4, 2008 So, how did this turn out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmsmith Posted October 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2008 My partner still hasn't given me the acrylic yet....he keeps leaving it at uni. I should be able to have it all up and running by the end of the week, so I'll do a couple of different types to see which is the most effective. Thanks for all the tips guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmsmith Posted October 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 ok, finally have the acrylic, so I'll be putting holes in and stuff this week. Anyone know where to get silicone airline in bulk? It's pretty expensive at pet stores Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted October 10, 2008 Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 I went for a perminant option because I could never get the dividers to stay put. Back plate is an old piece of plastic that I found and cut with a jigsaw. And some baby Agassizi in the middle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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