WEKA

You may need to put some support under the shelves as the MDF board may sag a bit with the weight after a while. Looking good.

What did you use to colour it and also to get the glaze in the last photo. Looks great

Thanks for all the nice comments. The tank is designed to be a cold marine but unfortunately it has been a long term project and has not seen any saltwater as yet. In the process of putting in a new kitchen and shower room at the moment amongst other things but will get it up and running for next summer. Still trying to get rid of some symptoms from a serious case of the bends on 31 March so not allowed back in the water(for a while) anyway to catch crays etc for the tank.

Hi Ryanjury These are pics of my poly background I described above. I added a couple of "squids" to give a bit of water movement. My anti syphon vents into the cavity behind the wall and flows thru meshed holes in the back of each of the caves. The whole wall has a silicon "gasket" sealing it to the the tank with an overflow for the outlet to the sump.

I made mine from two layers of 100mm polystyrene. Cut to fit 15oomm x 600mm tank. Held them together with kebab sticks while I cut out the caves and face with hot wire cutter. Made it easy to make swim thru and caves by splitting the sheets. Several layers of runny concrete material over the front and into the caves. When this had cured I cut out all the surplus poly from the back and then concreted the back as well. No buoyancy problems.

Unless it is a specially designed current relay it will not pass enough current to allow the dryer to run.

How do they do this? http://www.bloggingwv.com/the-worlds-mo ... -fishtank/

Irrigation Warehouse in ChCh are a cheap source of these and most other pvc fittings. I used just a smear of silicon on each face of the supplied gaskets to lock the fitting in place as much as anything as the seals are very good.

Whereabouts in the Solomons are you going diving. Spent some time diving out in the Western Province - best places were Munda and Gizo. Got caught up in their cue in Honiara and ended up getting a lift back to Cairns with the Aust navy !!

I cut caves and features out of two 100mm layers of polystyrene with a hot wire then used a concrete product called Cemix Patch to give several thin coats. I poured the last coat over the front to give a good finish. When it had dryed I cut out as much of the poly from the back as I could and concreted that too. Have not had it in the water yet but should be no bouyancy problems.

Didnt get the first picture for some reason can you post it again please

All the water passes thru a 10 micron filter before it goes thru the check valves so should never be anything large enough to cause a problem

No Alanmin I think seahorses are great and looking forward to having them in my lounge. My swing check valves arrived today and I am impressed with them. They are just what I had in mind. I will try them out as discussed and see how they go. They will get tested everytime I feed the fish as I have a pump shutdown switch on each of the tanks for feeding time. Thanks for your comments

I will have two tanks running off the same line from my outside plant room. The 80L hex is higher than the 500L in another room. The plan is to put a swing check under the hex and another outside on the main line. The 500L has an anti syphon hole in the line. The way I see it it is that if the hex swing fails it will find its level into the 500L and that tank will flow back to the sump which will accommodate the excess. If both fail it will drain the 80L from the hex!!!. Hex will have seahorses.

It's a calculated madness TM. My sump is outside so at worst I will have a bit of saltwater around the back of the house.

I have a 900mm high hex acrylic tank which I want to run the supply line from my sump through the bottom. I don't want to have to run it up to the surface and back down to be able to create an anti syphon hole. Hope this makes sense. Have got a couple of swing checks coming from Auck tomorrow which should do the job, they have no metal components. Thanks for your interest.

Where can I get a check valve to fit in the 20mm line from the sump pump on my marine set up. I know it is not always recommended to use these and I have got an anti syphon on my main tank but it is a problem to do this with my second tank. I would like a valve that does not require to much pressure to open.

Could try clear nail polish. I am told it works on TV screen chips

Or buy a partly used kit off trademe - cheap

Wat no thermometer!!!!

Hi Steve-s Looking good How did you hold your SCWD and fittings onto the back wall.

Sounds like the inrush current to your MH controllers is welding the contacts together in your timer. A slave relay is the only way to sort this.

My recommendation would be to stay away from any of the timers with the rotating dial as they are mechanical drive and will wear out sooner than later. The electronic (digital) ones are the way to go.

I have seen rays born in NZ and they were 200 - 300mm across so would need large tank even for newbornes

Can you connect a light into the same terminals as the heater is supplied from so that you can monitor when the heater is ON. It may be turning off to soon.