suphew

I went there 6 months or so ago, the jelly fish tanks are really cool. The reefs tanks have mainly just soft corals. They have a large circular tank with some nice reef fish, that also has sea snakes which is pretty cool. The main display is a massive tank, I think it is south pacific based has snapper, sharks etc. IMO well worth a visit.

Wait a week or two before you worry about the micro bubbles, they might go once it has settled in.

is the skimmer full of bubbles? It should be to the point that you can't reaaly see the water just a big foaming white mass. If it's not doing this there is something wrong. Also if you do have foam and it the water is coming over the top it's more likely too much air than not enough, often when they first startup they foam like crazy and you have to reduce the air

I have heard that you can rub the glass on smooth concrete, but dont know if this works.

Putting the hose into boiling water should soften it enough as well

Anthony, I know someone who has some glass drills....

yep sure will be, get ready for the 'tank of brown' at least it doesn't last too long, the 'tank of green' will show up soon! :lol: :evil: :lol: :evil:

Check these out, make the streams flow look a bit silly. So long as you can actually get them to startup! http://www.firststopaquatics.co.uk/acatalog/Seio_Polario.html

Mine sits on about 8.0 while the lights are off, and 8.3 when they are on. I don't maintain the level as such, you maintain your KH level this buffers the PH and keeps it right. Easiest way to do this is to dose kalk with the topup water. If you have high KH/Ca requirements (i.e. keep hard corals) the you might need to look at either a calcium reactor or two part dosing

Me not

The fish is going to be exposed to it as soon as it gets back in the tank anyway, IMO the idea is to get the fish healthy so it can handle it, not stress it trying to cure something that it is going to get right away again anyway. I haven't had W/S for a year or so, but I'm pretty sure if my fish got stressed it would come back. It did when I moved tanks and I hadn't seen it for months before that.

The larger chip will let more crap get down into it, also depends on the fish you want to keep, all would be okay with the sand but some wont like the larger chips. Thinking about fish that live/dig in the substrate.

Agree, its the stress that causes it, I'm not sure any one has actually managed to get rid of white spot from their tank, they just never see it because of low stress. The best water to use is straight from your main tank that way you know it is the same every time, plus will cause far less stress on the fish when it goes in there. If your doing this it would be safe to do 100% changes if you wanted. Part of the white spot life cycle is on the substrate (rocks sand etc) the less of this in the tank the easier it is going to be to get rid of. Also there will be a lot of life die on the live rock when it first goes into the QT and you add treatments, in this sense the live rock will make the water quality worse rather than better. And lastly you would have to have a way of knowing the rock never made it into a display tank again, imagin putting it aside once you stopped using a QT and then selling it by accident to someone else who didn't know and put it in their display. The importers I have seen change all their water every shipment, I'm not sure but think this might be a requirement, they also run skimmers. But no other filter systems that I can remember.

personally I wouldn't add any rock to the QT because if you have to treat the fish (esp with copper based meds) the rock wont be able to go back in your tank. Also I don't see the need, anything will do for cover, plastic plant, fake coral etc, but I wouldn't bother, the importers tanks are completely bare. plus since its a small tank you can do lots of large water changes (which would be a good idea anyway) so the biological function of the rock wont be doing anything. I wouldn't use a light either or if I did a very weak one, it just extra stress for the fish.

I have a Giga clam in my tank, doesn't attach to bottom and likes to move round a bit. At the moment the clam is covered in algae (bubble and some hair), cyno, and an apist. anenomie. Will it do it any harm to take it out of the tank and give it a clean down with a tooth brush?

Try putting the wood into a pot of boiling water, it will sink once has been boiled for while. Good luck

Do you have anything living in the tank?? i.e. fish, corals etc? If not why don't you chuck the dead rock in now?

Cookie, if your packaging some up I would be more than happy to pay for a few as well? I can't see why they wouldn't be fine posted in a little container with a splash of water. A small juice bottle with the wider openings would do the trick and be tough enough to survive our careful posties

Provides a carbon source for bacteria to feed on. This increases their numbers and they take up more nutrients, (phosphates etc), you then skim them out. I think the dose is about 1ml per 100l per day, some one will correct me if I'm wrong but I think the idea is to start off at about half this then build it up over a week or two. I think you also keep increasing the dose until you see an bacterial bloom (water goes a bit cloudy) then cut back on the dosing to the reccomended. Also do the dose in two lots during the day.

Hi Scott, There are a few of us in Wellington, I have a approx 800l tank, Pies is just up the road from me his system is around 2500l and there is another guy locally who has a around 2000l system. We all swap frags, gear etc often, getting stuff locally is impossible, I have picked up a couple of fish and corals from Kapiti and like to try and support him but is range is very limited so mostly we get stuff sent down from Auckland, if doing live stock we try and get togeather and order a box or two at a time to cut down on the costs. All the importers are on this site so it's not hard to arrange. If you biulding a new house it sounds like the perfect time to get a BIG tank built in :lol:

No cause it the hole that is restricting it, I assume there isn't anything on the bottom of that pipe restriting it or causing back pressure does it come out below the water line?

Tested water today, KH 9 Ca 360 Mg 1400 Mg did a bit of a jump with the last dose, first dose 1020-1100, second 1100-1200, third which was actually only 2/3 the amount of first two 1200-1400. Not sure why this happened but I rushed the first couple of tests so I might have been out by a bit. BTW I've been dosing it all week using my topup so those large changes didn't happen in one fast hit. The good news for me is that while Ca is still low, its closer to being in balance with Kh. I've nad the reactor turned down because of the high Kh (was 12) and have been topping up with Mg instead of kalk, so I was expecting the numbers to be a bit low.

Maybe you need to explain a bit more what you are trying to do?? The correct answer to your question is to get a bigger pipe, but I don't think this is what you are really asking. Do you want more of a blast coming out of the pipe? If so put a reducer on the end and you will get more of a jet. Or do you want more water flowing through the pipe? If this is the case you either need a bigger pump or remove the restrictions in the pipe, i.e. lower the head height, either remove or replace 90d bends with wide radius (or 2x45d) bends.

Must be something to do with monti's I think, I keep doing it to my blue monti, I have even broken of frag from a frag I broke ages ago and put into a different place. Fay, just a reminder that this is a family site :lol:

Tried that for a couple of months and it didn't help. I started using bio digest instead cause it works out costing about the same. But maybe I should have another go now I have removed my sand which seems to helping, and maybe crank the dose right up. Last time I got to just a bit higher than the reccomended (~1.2ml/100l). Does any one know what the safe level to go is before giving up?