chimera

aw only misnoma picks up on my joke how come you didnt hook it up to your other tank? loop them all to the same sump?

why is there a glove floating in your tank?!

so in summary, for best results dose separately if using ASW or dont worry about it if using NSW

working in city this week, up north mon-weds next so probably thurs or fri next week? will call ya then. thanks

pics pics pics! much easier to see how you're setting stuff up. ya just cant beat DIY when it comes to trick plumbing for serious water movement!

like taking candy from a big hungry fat man. no not yet. name a day (night) this week and i'll be there (weds or thurs?) pm me if either or neither suit!

i think wasp has had it a couple months longer than mine? mine not alive though

i finally picked up the new impellor from michael @ petplanet on the weekend. finally a smooth sounding eheim again and hopefully this time sustained water parameters. have had reactor running properly again since saturday arvo so will do some water tests tonight. will be interesting to see the results coz i know the main figures (kH, Ca and Mg) were all at a minimum... and its quite amazing how much Mg chloride you need to dose to sustain Mg. almost likewise with baking soda and kH.

looking great wasp, im coming over shortly to get some frags

my blue tang has had ws once in about 2 years. didnt do anything, just left it and it came right after a few days. happened when he moved tanks (4ft to 5ft) never seen it since. i would wait, personally i think doing various treatments stresses the fish more and probably causes it to get worse.

i assume we're all talking about a 'frag' here (which i usually see as a 1" to 3" offcut) if so i agree, i think $20 - $25 is a good price and fair for both seller and buyer. as we all know this is not a cheap hobby so having something to cover costs helps. however im not in it to ripoff my fellow reefer. also, what goes around comes around, im sure the buyer will provide the same favour back in the future if they have a frag you want. i agree with ira too, $40 is too much. at $40, you would expect a decent size 'frag', eg: an sps at least 4" with several branches. its not hard to know when you're getting ripped off speaking of which I have plenty of xenia frags if anyone is interested. decent size for $25 will put an ad up in private t&e soon with a pic.

absolut when i was dosing

yeah got plenty of snails, pm me

what you are smelling is on your breath, one shot for the tank, three shots for yourself. try it the other way around

pH at 6.5 - 6.7 coming out from effluent. see sticky at top of page and theres a link to a good write up on calcium reactors and how to tune them.

depends on the reactor, but generally as above for most

nice pics! amazing how much better macro shots can be with a good quality camera. get irfanview from http://www.irfanview.com its free and it can resize pics.

i usually use both the rubber gasket and silicon. i would use at least one or the other, but if i were to choose just one i'd go silicon. its as strong as glass once it dries. get the aquarium safe silicon too, fosroc rtv - and use the CLEAR one ONLY!

Plumbing wont hold unless it's glued, do so as per crackers comments. You can also add union fittings to piping at certain locations so you can unscrew and remove sections if needed. Like this:

thats what i said oh and up and over also means its easier to change the location of where flow enters back in the tank if you ever wanted to change. for example, say you increased flow, you might then decide to T it off and use to inlets to the tank (or 2 x sea swirls if you're game )

no difference, it all depends where you put your sump (in relation to the display) as opposed to where the return is fed back into the display. two main things to consider, static head (gravity) and dynamic head (friction). what you're interested in (in regards to the amount of flow you require) is the combined value of both or total dynamic head. static head is from the top of the sump water level to where the water is being pumped in (gravity plays its role here) so no difference where the return goes as it has gravity to the surface of the display no matter what. dynamic head includes resistance/friction based on things like 90 degree elbows, valves etc. total dynamic head is kind of both - the total resistance to flow caused by gravity and friction. at least thats how i understand it. personally i would always go up and over. that way you can do away with worrying about reverse syphoning and easily add a small hole to break the syphon should the return pump be switched off or fail.

i would do a reasonably decent WC i've heard they can polute the tank pretty quick

:lol: time to make a chimera pipe... but that just doesnt sound anywhere near as good. need to change my username to 'drain' to go with the flow... excuse the double pun.