chimera

greaser

On the contrary, I've only ever had brilliant success with cycle in my freshwater tanks in the past... and thats just from experience. Subject to this however, I agree with Pies in that 'dosing' is unnecessary for most requirements - instead, take heed of my signature below and try a bit of patience ditto.

anemone? I thought you'd cooked up some spaghetti :lol:

I run carbon constantly, changing it every 2 weeks.

aye carumba! too expensive! thats what it boiled down to with me, ended up just lifting and hooking the unit up. its hinged to the wall.

very nice layout!

i spent a little while looking around and pretty much gave up. whatever you select for your light winch, please post and let me know as I want to do the same thing.

nah bro this is what you want. this mutha does 26,000 lph!!! http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=DP2750 not bad price too and they can run dry for 24 hours too. they do make them in 240V versions as well (enquired about this a while back). compare to the iwaki 100rlt at about the same price here: http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=IK1183 and finally, a size comparison of a Dolphin 4500 versus Iwaki MD55RLT here!!!... http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/totm/index.htm

i thought that would be the case after looking at detritus building up on the sand bed!!! Sand bed looks really 'thick and gluggy' with crushed coral. Cheers.

A comparitive product would be the Iwaki MD70RLT. It draws about 3 amps and pumps just over 5,500 lph at 4 foot of head. Personally I'd spend the money and get a better, more reliable, 24x7 and 'built for the job' pump!

What you want is a magnetic driven pump instead. Low heat exchange and quieter in operation. Probably cheaper in electricity costs too.

Just to partially hijack this thread... ... Layton, I read that crushed coral sand shouldn't be used in a reef tank. Thoughts? They say it's too fine it just traps detritus etc. If it were used in a DSB however, then it wouldn't be a problem? Reason I ask is I put about 1/2" high of crushed coral sand in my display tank mainly for better visual effect. Ever since I put it in, algae build up increased considerably and small amounts of cyano started showing. I have removed as much of it as possible from the tank now and am going to put a thin layer of coarse sand in instead (an aragonite base) I also have a 1" aragonite base sand in my refugium and am considering DSB for it instead. Thoughts?

spa pool pumps cant run 24x7 i dont believe.

i doubt the snails contributed to your high nitrates etc (unless some of them died) how much water movement do you have? if not enough, build up of waste over live rock can eventually kill the good nitrifying bacteria that break ammonia into nitrites and nitrites to nitrates. this can surprisingly happen quite quickly. keep doing the water changes. you have reasonably maxed out stocking levels too dont you? are you sure you didnt over feed one day by accident?

post a link to the article.

Ira - have you actually tested your spray bar though? By that, I mean have you sprinkled a little sand all around it to see what happens? I have a corner where there is a build up of sand. Every now and then I "create a storm" by getting a powerhead and blow out all the crap from the rocks, I want to make sure any bad crap that gets under the rack gets blown out from under there. While I dont want to create a tidal wave under there, it needs to have at least decent water movement to achieve its purpose.

yes learnt heaps (and still learning) about spray bars. #1, they are a @#$%#% to get right. getting the holes in the right place is more important than you think. dont just drill randomly. however in saying this, i am thinking of changing my design from a bar with holes to a shorter bar (say 3 inches out each side) with no holes - instead, at each end im going to try heating and clamping the pipe (much like what most people do with the water flow back into the tank from a closed loop) plus angling it slightly downwards. that should create the best "widened flow" under the rack and keep shit off the bottom (rather than piddly little holes that appear - and feel - to do bugger all) might even try a 3 way spray bar with a small one pointing upwards into the rock. i need a gruntier pump to test with, the 1060 just doesnt do the job. if anyone has a 1262 for sale?...

Assuming iwaki 100rlt, 12 feet pipe and 8 feet static head + 4 x 90s and a couple of ball and union valves... 32mm = 28.42gpm 1705gph 6.09ft/sec 40mm = 29.07gpm 1744gph 4.58ft/sec Conclusion: go for 40mm, slower velocity, faster flow rate, more reliable.

use a T and be done with it. 9gph difference, bugger all... Using 4 x 90's (T) 29.07gpm 1744gph 4.58ft/sec Using 4 x 45's (Y) 29.22gpm 1753gph 4.60ft/sec

there is something horribly wrong with the world,... prices of marine tank goods...

definately less than $1k, already enquired for you ages ago. cant remember exactly but I think around the $800 landed figure (depending on exchange rate at the time etc) I would imagine a Y would mean selecting 4 x 45's (water has to disperse across both joints) In reality, dont need to be too particular on this as changing from 2 x 45's to 4 x 45's only changed overall flow rate by 5 gph.

completely agree with the motto - especially true for design phase (otherwise you're at a point of no return!) for example - when the tanks in, waters in, rocks are in, corals are in, fishies are in and you are having problems because you dont have enough water flow,... or lighting,... or plumbing is wrong size ,you have to spend the money to get it working or risk dead fish or corals or massive maintenance. spend the time getting your design right (sometimes only trial & error is the only true test though) and save $$$!!!

couldn't agree more!!! picture aint working coz there is a space in the filename. try putting %20 instead of the space, like this: Not quite sure how your returns are working, they coming in from the bottom or top of tank? Would highly recommend top for return! Especially if sump has reasonable head to pump up, it would then have to battle against the water above it.

plenty use NSW from takapuna boat ramp for years without any problem. take a sample yourself and test it if you wish. there are many extra goodies in NSW that ASW cannot provide, some good, some bad. IMO, if you dont have a skimmer or dont have a decent one, I would stick with ASW until you do - but thats just my opinion. if you go ASW, just make sure you stick with RODI water and a well known brand of salt. FYI, detailed composition of seawater: http://www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/seawater.htm

my blue tang bit me twice tonight. second time actually took off some skin on my forefinger (didnt draw blood but was pretty close to it!)