Catfish

For me when I use the garlic guard, I would add a few drops to the thawing bloodworms. After completely thawed I strain off the excess liquid to avoid polluting the water and put it in the tank. If I have one fish that's shy or has been a picky eater I will use, (this may sound strange) a turkey baster that is only used for the fish add some tank water to the bloodworms, suck up some of the bloodworms and gently squirt it in front of the picky fish. It helps to get the other fish in the tank eating first, preferably away from the one you want to feed so that they don't crowd him when you do this. I have never used the crushed garlic, but as a guess you should be able to just add it to the food in the same manner. If you do use a turkey baster, make sure it is thoroughly cleaned before and after. I have a very small bottle brush I use for mine. Good luck, hope this helps, but keep an eye out for any possible signs of illness that could be the actual cause of him not eating.

I don't know alot about Discus, but when I've had a fish go off food I will use Garlic Guard for them by soaking some blood worms in it for a bit before feeding. It's also good for them too. I know that Hollywood Fish Farm carries it. http://www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz/prod ... hp?id=1230 Hopefully there isn't some more to the fish not eating.... Though some fish will stop eating when breeding, but if he's slimming down...., but like I said, I don't know alot about Discus.

I think my 6 will be fine, was just dreaming a little. I have looked at Malawi but I'm really hooked on the Frontosa so Tanganyikan it is.

Oh that is so nice. One day......... :roll: Great price too!

Thanks for the help ryanjury. Wasn't sure about the Cyathopharynx Furcifer and Paracyprichromis Nigripinnis availability here, hence why I put the names up to see. I wouldn't mind trying the Frontosa's and the Brichardi, was hoping the Brichardi would grow big enough that the Frontosa wouldn't eat them. I'm still a month or 2 away from set up, so I still have some time to look around at what's out there. I have seen that 8' set up too, it's very nice, makes me think the 6 could be too small. :roll:

2 X's?

typo

I have a beautiful Maple tank stand that has sustained some damage. It was left in a garage over the winter and the movers had put 8 bags (50lbs each!!) of gravel inside. Unfortunately I didn't notice that they had done that until it was too late. Anyhow, the inside bottom has been bowed and a door has come off as a result with another door needing repair also. What I was wondering is if anyone in the Wellington area knows of anyone who could possibly fix this. The bow and the doors seem to be all that's wrong, the rest looks sound, but I'd like someone who knows what they're doing when it comes to tank stands for obvious reasons. I'd hate to have to throw it away as it was very expensive, but in worst case scenario I do still have a metal frame stand for the tank too.

Ok, so I've been convinced by a dear friend that I should set up a Cichlid tank, however as I have been doing fishkeeping for years I have never had a Cichlid tank (not counting the various kribs and some South Americans). So I'm looking for some advice with what I would like to keep for a Tanganyikan set up.... Here's the details: 6' tank - 820ltrs 2x 600ltr canister filter Fish that I'd like to keep: Frontosa - was thinking a group of 6-8 Neolamprologus brichardi Cyathopharynx Furcifer Paracyprichromis Nigripinnis "Neon" I realize that I may not be able to keep all those together and also some may not be available here. Was also wondering what numbers of each to keep? Also I'd also like to keep some of my Catfish in there too. A group of Synodontis Decorus and some Plec's. The Catfish in the tank is a must as that was the reason for buying the tank in the first place. So..... Any suggestions?

Yep I agree. You can buy things to raise the ph but it's best if you can allow it to come up naturally, easier on the fish too as they don't like sudden changes. As long as your Nitrites, Nitrates and Ammonia are low the fish should be fine for a while.

Here's a link to a useful page, doesn't have everything but it a good base and any tank set up can alter compatibility really. http://www.tropicalfishandaquariums.com ... /index.php

I would think you should be good, but I don't know much about chain loachs. However I've heard that kuhli's will eat guppy/platty fry, would think the chain loachs would do the same.

Unbelievable that they would destroy such and endangered species, that's simply horrible!! I'm sure they could have taken them to an aquarium for proper care and handling. :evil: :evil: :evil:

Don't kill the cat Solution: Cover the tank I have 3 kitties and one is a Turkish Van, also known as swimming or "fishing" cat's, he's never been a problem..... except for spilling a large bucket of tank water all over the carpet, arg :-?

Glad I could be some help for you. Hopefully you've removed the problem and all should be good now. Fingers crossed that the danio recovers too. Cheers, CF

Well it doesn't seem to be overstocked by the looks of things, however you could have a compatibility issue. Male Betta's aren't all that compatible with much really and he could be the terror. I've also had problems keeping Angels as I've found them to be just too aggressive the larger they get and they don't like betta's. The SAE.... I've never had too much trouble with them but the bigger they get, the more trouble they could cause. Hard to really say as it is possible to keep incompatible fish together as sometimes they do happen to get along, but then again you can see the opposite of that on occasion with fish that are suppose to compatible. Sometimes it's just the fish. Unfortunately I don't know everything about fish so I can just give you suggestions of what I know from my own experience, maybe someone else may have a better idea? However, the ones I'd keep my eye on is the betta, possibly the angels, the gourami and maybe the SAE. Also with the SAE you may want to make sure he is a "real" one and not a flying fox. The FF are much more aggressive than the SAE and could be the culprit. I had one once and all he did was terrorize everything in the tank. Unfortunately alot of stores will sell you fakes listed as SAE. I'll paste in some info on the 2 to help you identify.... Siamese Algae Eater or SAE: The true SAE has a jagged black horizontal stripe that goes all the way to the tip of the tail. All of the SAE's fins are clear. The black and white and their contrast are more intense than with the other algae eaters below. False Siamese Algae Eater or false SAE: The false SAE if usually found in shipments of true SAE (or the other way around). Unlike the SAE, the black stripe ends at the beginning of the tail. Often, if one goes to buy SAE's in a US aquarium store, they may in fact be all or mostly false SAE's. False SAE's may have some red around the mouth and a yellow tint to the fins. My false SAE had some nice gold and red on the dorsal fin. Mine was sold as a flying fox. Flying Fox: Just like the true SAE, the flying fox has a black horizontal stripe that goes all the way to the tip of the tail. Unlike the SAE, the edges of the stripe are smooth and not zagged. The flying fox may have some rainbow-like coloring on the fins. It is more pretty than the other fish mentioned on this page. The black horizontal stripe extends to the end of the tail like the SAE but it is much stronger and broader. Hope this helps and you are able to deal with your terror before anything more happens. By the way, how did it go with putting the Betta in the breeding trap?

Fish can survive just fine with one eye but it's not as aesthetically pleasing to look at. I'm not overly fussy myself. I would medicate the water though or place him in a hospital tank if available for a few days to give him a chance to recover. I personally wouldn't trust the gourami, they can be a bit aggressive. What other fish do you have in the aquarium? Could also be fish wanting to breed and that can also make them quite territorial and aggressive. How big is the aquarium too? If it's overstocked they could be fighting over space.

I have had Kulli's and Whiptail's together with no problems at all and the Kulli's were there first. As mumzy50 says I've always found them to be peaceful.

My slowly growing collection 1 Bristlenose Plec 1 Blue Panaque 1 Synodontis Decorus

I have just acquired a new cool catfish to add to my slowly growing collection... Common name:Blue Panaque Scientific Name:Ancistrini sp. L number : L239 Male #'s : Unknown Female #'s : Unknown Successfully bred N

I use to have about 10 in my tank. They're great little guys, just never try to force them off the glass to net them or anything or you could kill them. (Seen people in fish stores try to do that..... bad)

Thread algae and the brush algae is what they like. Green spot algae and blue green algae are not on the menu. I love these little guys, they're great cleaners.

Sounds like Dropsy to me. Goldfish do tend to make alot of waist though. Here's some info on the disease. Dropsy Symptoms: Bloating of the body, protruding scales. Dropsy is caused from a bacterial infection of the kidneys, causing fluid accumulation or renal failure. The fluids in the body build up and cause the fish to bloat up and the scales to protrude. It appears to only cause trouble in weakened fish and possibly from unkempt aquarium conditions. An effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it.

Here's the link, I just noticed a small write up at the bottem specifically for Discus In spite of the above, many Discus keepers have a treatment schedule like this one below, or close to it: ...for Discus, I use 1/4 level tsp per 20 gallons every 3 days for 21 total days. I leave the meds 48 hours, do a 50% WC, then another after 24 hours, and redose. Keep up same schedule for the full 21 days and you should get a fluke free environment. Much less is needed to treat for tapeworms. There, same amount once a week is needed, and leave in water for at least 48 hours before a WC. Treat twice. __________ http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/m ... 00146.html

I just treated the water when I used it and found that did the trick nicely. A little goes a long way. Here's some info on dosing off the net... Dosing: The recommended dose of Praziquantel is 2 milligrams per liter of water. This means that in 100 gallons of pond water you would need about seven hundred milli-grams. In a thousand gallons you would need about seven grams of Praziquantel. The drug is simply stirred vigorously into a liter of clean water and, when mostly dissolved, the white colored suspension is deposited into a high-flow area of the pond. If the fish ingest some of the medicine as it settles out, it's not a problem. Discontinue carbon and UV during treatment to avoid inactivation of the Praziquantel. You do not need to bypass the filter nor worry about oxygen levels during treatment. The most successful treatments are deployed in cleaner ponds, so any excess leaf litter or debris should be removed. Clearance of the flukes can be determined by microscopy or the overall improvement of signs of flashing and scratching. On occasion, segmnents or ribbons of worms may be passed in the fish stools and are generally of no concern to human health. No sifde effects as far as fish behavior or health have been reported or expected.