KerryO

Well the book I read said they (Clown Loaches) are fine in groups when young, but only one adult per tank is recommended. Mine is a young one, but I didn't want to have to get rid of some when they had grown to adults. He seems perfectly happy on his own, and started work as soon as I released him into the tank. No other fish bother him, and he bothers no one. I don't want to upset the balance, but at the same time I'd love some more of them.

I bought some dwarf gouramis at Hollywoods in the weekend, to go with the tetras and minnows that I got from you (Aqua). Good looking fish, eat anything and everything you throw at them, don't hassle the other fish. Like to have there own teritory in the tank, especially the one busy building a bubble nest. I've also got: 2x Flying Foxes (1 would have been plenty) 2x Kuli Loaches (hardly ever seen, but amuse the kids when they do come out) 1x Clown Loach (highly recommended), and 2x Bristle nose cats(also highly recommended). I'm not sure what I'll get next to make up the balance of my tank. Maybe some Mollies.

Prior to making up my mix, I bought some Plant Gro, the new iron enriched version from my LFS. The blurb on the side of the bottle says: Plant Gro Iron Enriched contains only chelated iron, which is easily assimilated by plants and safe for aquatic organisms, will not affect fish etc. On the otherside of the bottle is the recommended doseage (a one off doseage) no on going doseage. Also: We recommend using the Nutrafin Iron Test Kit to regularly monitor chelated iron levels. I emailed the manufacturers "Nutrafin' and asked what the ongoing doseage should be. This was their reply: There are two types of Plant~Gro, Iron Enriched and NPK, I have to guess you are reading the Iron Enriched because there are no dosage periods mentioned. The reason for this is that Iron is used in varying amount by various environments, and although it should not drop too low, it can be harmful when dosed in excessive levels. The only way to be sure, with any fertilizer that adds iron, is to use a proper test kit to ensure the levels stay within safe ones. To be honest with you, we had an iron fertilizer ready for quite a while before we felt we could sell it, waiting for the addition of an accurate iron test kit to allow safe long-term usage. Well I don't know, it looks like I need to buy an iron test kit now. I could be way under or way over the levels, and I'd have no idea, unless fish start misteriously dying.

The Iron Chelates are available at the garden centres. Don't forget there is already some in the cheap Trace Element mix. I don't know how much though.

My trace element mix, is made by Riverside Products in Terapa. When it settles my water is blue too. The particles that settle to the bottom are dark brown like rust. when I shake the bottle it all turns rust brown. I've stopped using it for now, until I or someone else furthers my edumacation about the stuff.

That's interesting mine is cloudy too. In the bottom of my bottle is about a small teaspoon of undissolved particles, the colour of rust. I was kind of wondering if you guys had found a liquid form of the trace mix. I also thought of filtering it out.

I read the whole article also a couple of days ago. I then jumped in the car and went up to the local garden centre, I had no problem finding the epsom salts (Magnesium Sulphate) and the trace element mix. Total cost 8.00 I then stopped at the local dairy on the way home and got a small bottle of drinking water (using 300ml of it), into which I mixed 2.5 tablespoons of the epsom salts and 1 tablespoon of the trace element mix. It wouldn't all dissolve properly, but I just give it a shake before adding about 3-5mls each day to my 130L tank. (small squirt) I didn't get the Chelated Iron as it is already in the trace element mix, and I didn't want to over do it with iron, as it is so poisonous to fish. I really need an iron test kit, but I'm sick of buying test kits for now. I also couldn't find the stuff to stop fugus growing in the mix, so I'll have to keep an eye on it. In a matter of days I have noticed the difference in my plants, mainly turning greener.

Shilo, I'm pretty sure that when you are inside the tank looking out, it's no different than being inside your house and looking out of the windows. If it is light outside the tank then the fish can see out fine, if it is dark outside and light inside then the fish will see their own reflections in the glass. In the interests of science and to enlighten other members of this forum I think Shilo should stick his head in his tank and confirm or deny this. Don't forget to turn the lights on and off in the room while you are doing it. Seriously though, the towel trick didn't work for long. I really bought the fish as a working fish, not a show off one, if he or she doesn't get their act together soon they are out. The Bristle Noses are fantastic workers, worth every cent. One of them has made his base hanging upside down on a piece of driftwood, in the flow of bubbles fron the airstone.

No I don't think it's a lack of oxygen, I have two air inlets creating quite a stir on the surface of the tank. I've hung a towel over the end of the tank, and he won't go near it now. In fact he's joined the other flying fox and they are cleaning and playing in formation. I'll wait and see what the longer term effect of this is.

That's what I reacon Pies, his head will be on the block soon.

My ammonia tests =0 Ph =7.2 I just went and bought a Nitrate test kit and it reads 0, is that normal? I got some plant food addative as well, as my new growth was a little too yellow (lack of iron). Algae is a bit of a problem (green) but the new bristle noses are getting it well under control.

The same thing has happened again today, the fish starts of good for 2 or 3hrs in the morning, then as the day progresses it gets more crazy. By late afternoon it's going 100mph around and around the end panel of the tank. I'm wondering if my temp is set too high, currently 80 F. I've just been reading a book that states 75F as average for community tanks. I have noticed that the shops are usually 80+, perhaps they set their temps high to make the fish more active and hence more attractive. Does anybody know what temp is ideal for flying foxes? and is my temp of 80 too high?

Well I don't know what's going on, but this morning he's back to normal schooling with the other one, doing their job of cleaning the tank. I thought I would find him dead, just from sheer exhaustion if anything. I noticed he calmed down a lot last night when I turned off the light. I'll wait and see what happens by the end of today, perhaps to much light upsets them.

Hi all, the other day I bought two blackline flying foxes, to eat the algae of my plants. One does the job well, the other spends most of its time racing up and down the glass in monotunous regular patterns, at breath taking speed. It occasionally stops and has a quick nibble, but then just resumes this behaviour. I don't think its normal behaviour. Can someone advise please.

Andrew, how about posting a picture of your tank, I'd sure like to see one. I'd like to see a lot of other peoples tanks too. It would sort of help to put a face to the name, so to speak. Cheers, Kerry.

It's actually Pauls wife Debbe on Trademe. I won todays auction and she has been extremly helpful. Paul is too busy, but is helping her with answers. I'm really looking forward to getting the load of plants I bought today, to plant out my new aquarium.

I have uploaded another photo of the tank filled, and with gravel. The translucent pondpaint has gone whiteish when submerged. I wish someone could come up with a clear nontoxic coating that would stay clear under water. I thought I had it licked. Does anybody know of anything nontoxic that I could turn it brown looking with, like food dye or clothes dye, just thinking out loud. I know some of the medicines for fish can turn things blue or green.

Thanks, I built a cradle out of galv wire (old coathanger) the heater is now suspended in the cave.

Lamp Specialists Ltd. 09 525 2050 Penrose Ak. Worth a go.

Thanks, I have decreased the image sizes to help those on modems. Still a heafty download, but a lot less now. Pictures are worth a thousand words, so it saves me a lot of 2 finger typing.

Hi, I have uploaded the photo's of the background that I am building. Hopefully it will help assist anyone else contemplating a similar project. http://shell.world-net.co.nz/~jenniefield/ Cheers, Kerry.

In the aquarium I am setting up, I have built a cave to house the heater. In the back of the cave is my outlet for the filter, so water will be continuously flowing over the heater. The entrance to the cave is low and down at the gravel level and spread over a distance of about 300mm to stop fish being sucked in. It probably wouldn't matter if a fish did get into the cave as the outlet pipe has a grid on the end anyway. I keep reading articles saying not to place the heater on the gravel, and don't really understand why. Does anyone think this would apply in my situation? Thanks, Kerry.

Pegasus, I have just been to your website. It is a brilliant piece of work, and perfect for a beginer like me. 5 off your links on the lefthand side didn't work for me, and a couple in particular I would really like to read. If you can find the time, could you take a look and see if you can sort them out. 1/ What plants. 2/ How many fish. 3/ Algae 4/ Useful websites. 5/ Pictures. Many thanks, Kerry.

You will still find them for a while, but new regulations set by EECA have now banned the importation of common daylight tubes into NZ. The tubes affected are 33's 55's Philips 54's, Osram 10's & 20's among others. The reason is because of their energy inefficency. It is an effort to have them banned from offices, though they may still be available from pet shops, and will probably be known soon under a different name. I was told all of this by Lamp Specialties in Auckland, a major player in the game. Here is a link to the govt. dept. that is handling the situation, I didn't have time to dig deeper, and don't profess to understand it all, due to my limited knowledge on flouresent tubes. http://www.eeca.govt.nz/default2.asp?Ta ... tetour.htm Philips knew of this upcoming ban, and imported thousands of the tubes before the cut off date. So I imagine some sizes are still plentiful, but certainly not the 2' ones I wanted.

OK, I've done away with the under gravel filter, too much hassle, though I can see how it would improve plant growth by allowing air to directly reach the plant roots. My inlet spray bar is mounted vertical with the top hole over 100mm below the water surface, I can introduce air into this, as well as I will be having an air pump, so I should not suffocate the fish. Cool white Flourescents are the wrong ones to use for plants. Daylight would have been good, but they are no longer available in NZ. I have gone with Triphosphor, 4 x 20w for my 160 Ltrs, giving a medium plant growth light. I can add more latter if necessary. The consruction of my background is finished, except for a coating of translucent pondpaint. Available from Mitre 10 @ $40.00 per 1 Ltr.