SpidersWeb

There are a lot of breeders going on the trip, including Billaney (who can breed anything with fins), so I'm sure in a few months there will be tank raised versions available which might be more suited to the home aquarium, so if anyone misses out dont worry! There will be more to come

I'm no expert by any means, but when I was a kid with goldfish I remember that black areas meant lack of oxygen. While you wait for more qualified responses, you might want to try and increase oxygen in the water e.g. air stone/pump Not saying thats what it is, just something I remembered.

haha my filter pipes have never done that to me, (good onya Jebo) But I've spilled over 450 litres so far. Big spills to date: 1) air pipe hanging down from tank, tank started to syphon by itself, took hours but I found the poor fish being cooked by the confused heaters in 10% of tank water, so thats 180L that had got on to the floor 2) Filling a 450L tank with water, half way through it bursts, neato 3) Used a rock to hold a syphon hose in place when draining a tank, rock falls and smashes a full 30L tank on the shelf below (lost a lot of baby danios too ) 4) CO2 lines were T'd below the tank, the backpressure blew the T off and water went everywhere, lost about 40 litres before I found it. These are all in the last 6 months. Number 3 happened last weekend.

I *might* be, but haven't confirmed it yet. If we return with excess you'll be welcome to some freebies

Party at Jim's!

I had that on my wood when I put it in the tank, the wood was rotting at the time, and I assumed this fungus was just feeding off the wood. It went away after a few weeks, although the decomposing wood was suspected of causing other problems and was removed months later.

You can get digital room thermostats for $50-150 (bi-metal ones for $30), which need to be wired in manually, but connect to a electric fan heater, and your fishroom will always be kept at the same temp. If you dont want to use too much power, set it at 20C, that way it'll only be on when the room gets real cold. I know its not super cheap, but its a permanent solution, and much cheaper than individual heaters. Alternatively as a temporary measure for the cold only nights, then just a room heater on low, you'd just want to watch the temp the first night so you knew what the temp was like, or get one that has a proper thermostat on it.

Cheers Yeah I was planning on moving the parents.

Yep I'd be keen on 6 of them PM me when they're sendable.

Just wondering if WCMM will spawn happily with plastic grass (those spawning mats you buy) or do they really need java moss? What size tank is needed to spawn WCMM? The smaller the better, but if I'm being silly then they can have a 30L tank to spawn in, I got this tiny tank for $5 thats like a little square, holds about 3 litres.

Pretty easy to wire them yourself, or if you're not electrically minded you probably have access to somebody who is. If you're getting a fitting, then its all wired up anyway, just need the 3 wires (Live, Neutral, Earth) wired to a $4 power socket, and plug that baby into your $10 timer 8) I'm making a small DIY one at the moment out of a fruit and vege bin from an old fridge, some $5 bayonet holders, and a pair of 6500K daylight lamps I got for $3.95. I paid $4 for a plug too but you really could just rip the wire off an old computer or similar. I haven't had a shock since the late 90's, as long as you respect the power and don't get too cocky. Make sure everything is OFF and if you're not confident, find someone who is, dont electrocute yourself. Certainly if you're not electrically DIY, its always best to buy pre-made Aquarium lighting.

ohhhhhh now I get it Thanks!

Its got bracing on the inside, and the cracks continue underneath the bracing, also I'd need to use lots of small bits of glass rather than a single sheet to get it on the inside (due to bracing up the top). Fixing it on the inside would have been a little bit easier though because I wouldn't need help moving the tank. I really need to get a photo but camera batteries went flat. Whether the glass is ontop of the cracked pain or below, its still going to have half a tonne pushing down I know what you mean, but it'll be fine, it wont slide out, the tank (even empty) is soooo heavy nothing could move even if it wanted to. I can't even lift one end of the tank empty. Also have to check the MDF under it, worried it might not be as flat as I'd first thought :-?

Hey guys, When we put in our 460L tank, we got a chip in the base which caused the base to crack when it was fulling with water. Happened ages ago, but we need to fix it so we can use it. Anyway its only the base thats actually cracked, so it dosen't need to look great, just needs to hold water again. I was thinking of just putting a slate of glass the same length/width as the tank underneath, and siliconing it in place. So my question is, will 5mm glass do this job ok? or will I need 8 or 10mm glass? I've done this before to repair 3ft tanks, and it was dirt cheap to do and worked fine, but I've never done it to a tank of this size in the past, and I'm going to need at a team just to help lift the tank The thinner the glass the lower the cost, and I dont want to pay heaps of money for no point. The existing glass is 10mm, and this extra sheet is just to keep it together and stop water escaping out the cracks (although they will be silconed up on the inside too). Any ideas on what the glass would cost? I dont want to start ringing around for quotes until I know what I'm doing. Tank is 1400x700.

:lol: :lol:

haha oh no, this is a major personality conflict. For the most part I agree Frenchy in what you have said in regards to how this conversation has flowed, however probably best we all just drop it before it gets any more heated. You made an NZ comment in there, and I know its just out of frustration/anger, but its the start of something... just gotta relax The clear outcome is that fans are the answer to the original problem, and to tanks equal to and greater than 60L. Anyone disagree with that statement?

You can smell the pride in the air.

Tank will drop temperature overnight without ice though. Really want to test it mid-arvo.

Awesome, I'll certainly give that a try! Thanks!!

It certainly is getting very technical, but we're a way off topic. Was originally a 'how to cool my tank' thread and its turned in to a fan vs ice talk. Awesome contribution Robert, thanks heaps Perhaps a technical thread should be started with all this information. Handy if anyone is looking at running a new native tank especially. I'm gathering the consensus is a fan is a better option for tanks bigger than a standard 2 foot 60L and ice is an effective solution on the smaller tanks.

Yeah, its not the prettiest but it does a good job. Once you've uploaded your image using photobucket, underneath it it has a few boxes, if you click them it will 'Copy' the text to your clipboard. So.. to post an image directly click on the box next to where it says 'IMG Code', then when editing/creating a post on here just press CTRL+V (or right click and select 'Paste' from the menu) and you'll get something like [img=http://link.photobucket.com/something/somepic.jpg] There are regulations with regards to size on the forums etc, but I dont want to complicate the issue any further! lol Not supposed to be wider than 800 pixels if possible though. If it is too big, then just link to your image by removing the bits, then people can just click to view it in another window. Depending on your internet skill, it may take a few goes Its all good

Has been a good read. Thankfully I dont have to deal with keeping tanks cool, but certainly learned a lot in this thread 8)

Just wanted to let you guys know I am finally winning the war. I woke up today to find my filter spray bar completely algae free :o So, the AlgaeFix worked, but I would like to note, do not overdose AlgaeFix by the slightest amount, if I used any more than literally 5mL/200L (and I'm talking like .5mL more) my fish started having trouble breathing hardcore. You also must make sure you have an air stone running. It was my Platys that were most affected. It took 3 doses, and I will do the 4th today (3 days between though) but am stoked to see the thread algae subside. It seems the AF weakened the algae, as the fish have been eating it like crazy.

They are called Red Danios. There is already another thread discussing this. Everyone is basically 50/50 on the subject. Some are passionate about a new species, other are passionate about keeping the hobby GE Free. These danios are 'genetically engineered', or rather their great great grandparents were. Other than the colour they're just normal zebra danios. They are not dyed (before anyone uses that word again).

I have five teenage GBAs who have worked hard their whole lives eating algae. I find their weakness is thread algae which they dont seem to be able to eat easily, and it grows despite their efforts. Have a young SAE who works hard, but doesn't seem attracted to the thread algae as much as I'd hoped. 35cm Common Plec who is often too lazy to clean brown algae off the glass or rocks but will troffle around in the gravel looking for oscar left overs. Have two redspot plecs who do an awesome job of keeping their tanks algae free, unfortunately they damage normal plants, and my common plec literally almost destroyed my borneo sword Most of my fish in the community/planted tank pick away at the thread algae a day after an AlgaeFix dose, including Kribensis, Dwarf Gourami, Angels, and the Clown Loaches.