Pies

What seems logical for you, you mean Think about this: Head pressure, if the width of the pipe made a difference, then the head of a pump would be effected by the size of the outlet. Eg based on your theory a pump would pump less if say it was pumping up a 25mm hole than a 40 mm hole as it would weight more/provide more pressure, which isn't the case. Notice how the head pump factor charts don't compensate for this? Its because they don't have no, pressure is consistant. Also based on that theory, a pump submerged at 200mm under water in a 2 foot tank would pump more water around than if it was submerged at 200mm in a 4 foot tank because of the less weight/pressure, which is not the case. Pies

T5s produce more light than standard fluros. As for whats better, hard to know but without using 'insane' lighting its hard to over do it. I use T5s and MHs. 2x 10k 250watt MHs & 4 x 85watt T5s, 2 are blue, 2 are white. On my new tank I am going to use both Halides (10k), T5s (white & blue) and 3 foot fluros (blue). Basically more light is better As for the anemone question, I would think it would be happier under a halide than a T5 (my 2 are), however I suspect it would be happier still under both T5s and a halide More light will keep animals like this happy. I have a 300 litre tank, and it has 2x 3foot Blue NO tubes and 1x 250 MH 10k. I belive given the coral not doing well on the side it could use more light. Good luck Pie

From what I understand it will, as the flow will be less impeeded by the larger bore on the pipe, pressure will be uneffected based on the head pressure so all you will be doing is allowing more water to flow through. I am in the same boat, 25mm (pump) to 20mm Sea Swirl. But I have to feed 2x Swa Swirls. so does that mean I should feed the 2x 20mm feeds from a 40mm pipe to give me maximum flow, or would 50mm be better (an extra 5mm per sea swirl?). Its worth sorting it out now, I refuse to make a mistake and drill 2 holes through the floor or just waste money repurchasing plumbing, over and again. Pie

Another brand that is popular is the Dupla 'Alpha' gagues. Pie

Suphew - Yeah I suspect your right. However points to remember is the number of elbows/bends will be static regardless of the pipe size. What you are saying about squeezing the water through the smaller holes makes sense. I was planing on using 32mm to 2x 20mm. The 20mm is fixedm as is the 25mm outlet of the pump. So I guess the question is this: 1. Should I use 25mm, 32mm for the return pipe (currently I think 32mm is better but I am prepared to listen so some science) 2. Should I use a single elbow and tap of both 20mm outlets or use the T/Y soultion? I will present this with pictures. The sonner I get an answer, the sooner I can drill a hole through the floor. Pie

Thats incorrect, it does't matter how big the container is the pressure is the same based on the height. The pressure at the bottom of a swimming pool at 10m is the same regardless of if the swimming pool is 5m wide or 50m wide, height is the only factor, not volume. Less friction. Like I said, the people who I spoke to, who do water flow technology for a business reccomended this to me. Maybee they are wrong? I happen to belive them and its consistant with what I have read. Inlet for the seaswirl 20mm. Pies

Yes I have a rabbit fish, I brought it from Brooklands. The point is don't want to advertise stuff that we souldn't have, expecially on here, a site with a close relation ship with MAF. I don't think anyone cares, but only takes one person to make a big deal out of it and we all loose. Secerets! PM me a photo of your lionfish. Pies

Thanks for the comments. The advice I have recieved says that by having large bore outputs (say 40mm insted of a 25mm outlet) reduces the amount of friction and increases the pumps ability to pump water under pressure (head height). The head remains consistant regardless of the pipes diamater (that is 10m head is 10m head, regardless of if you pumping through 25mm or 250mm pipe, friction and flow (flow effected by friction from straight pipes and elboes, bends or creases/compressions in the pipe). I was told, and I have no reason not to belive them, that the wider the output pipe, the better the pump will behave. But I am sure there is a line which it stops making a difference. Suphew - Interesting about my return plumbing. I will draw up some quick plans so you can see exactly what I am going to do (planning), but I am still very much at the stage where I can be convinced to change it. I'll try and get it up tonight. As for the wide radias elbows, I have them in use already, and will buy them for the new setup once I confirm the size of the return plumbing (almost definatly 32mm from a 25mm feed). The only issue with the elbows for the return plumbing is I don't have enough room to use the wide radius ones to feed the sea swirl, so was only going to be able to use one. Again pictures will explain this better. Pie

Its never been legal to bring it into NZ, ever, and the fact that its poisonous makes it 'doubble illegal'. That being said its a stupid law and I wish MAF would sort out the 'lists'. I really would love to see some REAL live rock for sale. Pie

Got all of the tank inlet valves glued into the tank, and have almost finished a 2nd closed loop. I am using a dremal to shorten the tank inlet valves so I can get the closed loop pumps as high as the plumbing allows, keeping everything tidy. Finished the 'Durso Standpipe'. Am using 50mm PVC. Damn big standpipe! So today/tommorow I will pickup the plastic I need to build the overflow box, then get it cut and folded, should be in the tank late next week if I can get out to the hut for an hr, work has been very busy. Return plumbing is the last piece of the 'puzzle' I need to source. I have decided to use 32mm PVC for this to feed the 2 sea swirls. In the name of better water flow and tidy plumbing I will bring it in from one end and not use a T joint. I also need to get the in-tank plumbing sorted, inlets for the closed loops and spray bars. And they reef racks will also be glued into the tank. So the next few weeks is all about plumbing. Ohhh and the floor strengthing continues Pies

Note to self: The Practice is lame.

Chimera - Where did you get the Rabbit Fish from as they are not 'on the list' and are poisonous. Maybee you should take the photo down, don't want MAF in here asking questions, someone may get in trouble. Nice fish though, may hammer soft corals and Xenia. My rabbit fish eats Xenia instantly but hasn't touched any other softies. Pies

Saddle back clown? I have seen many different saddle back clowns, and they all have a 'saddle back' patteren insted of a stripe, hence the name Pie

I have one of those starfish, its body is about the same size as the palm of my hand! A real monster! Pie

Its a flatworm. (not the evil planaria flatworm). No problem, unlikley to survive or eat anything it shouldn't. Just keep an eye for any corals being munched, but I have a few different sorts scooting around, unaware of any issues. Pies

I am curious to know how you get on. The bloating is often the last stage (bloated body, shrunken tenticles) before the start to recess, rot and die. If you know its dieing for sure (you can see the rock skelleton behind the flesh), pull the coral. You really don't want that things dieing and decaying in your tank. Pie

Chris - Although its hard here is some advice for what its worth. Don't add anything more to your tank for the next 4-6 weeks. Nothing (except Live Rock if you are going to add more, more = better). Try and do a 20% or more water change every week. If you do this, I am sure that in 6 weeks time you tank will be ready for some livestock, and you will have a little more imediate success with it. This cycle time is important, people with freshwater tanks often dismiss the cycle but it saltwater its a different story. The smaller you tank, the worse it gets too. So slow down on the live stock, give the tank a change to settle and everything will work itself out. Good luck Pieman

HAHAHAHAHHAHA 5 trips? Damn! DAMN!

Calustrea. Pies

I wouldn't be so harsh on the whole coral in a cycling tank thing. Eric Bournemans articles suggest that for stone corals, no reason they can't go in right from the start. Fish are far more adverseley effected. Pie

Less is more

Do you think its the tank thats failing or the coral? I suspect its the coral. I doubt there is anything so wrong with the tank that the coral should be removed. Read the threads on this coral, there is a high likleyhood it will just die, no ones fault except the people who make the rules that allow it to be brought in. Pie

Closed loops - There are many reasons why you may want to use closed loops for circulation: Little heat transfer from the pumps because they are external, easy maintenance, aestheticly pleasing because they are not in the tank so can't be seen, flow rates are mostly uneffected by head pressures etc. The big disadvantages are plumbing (its hard to make it tidy) and positioning the flow. When planing this tank I knew I was going to use my TUNZE Stream pumps for circulation, but STREAMS have big disadvantages too (other than just price), they look horrid and are hard to hide. So I wanted to use closed loops to help move water around the rockwork and the streams to provide flow in the open areas of the tank. Because of the flow problems at the back/bottom of the tank, you can get all sorts of things building up, and its hard to get flow into these areas after you tank is built and the rocks in. So I need flow under the rocks, I want the plumbing tidy (less can go wrong, can be frustrating with pipes and cords everywhere) and i don't want to be able to see the plumbing/pumps when looking at the tank. I also wanted to ensure that my plumbing allowed for the best flow possilbe from the tank. Excessive plumbing, plumbing with the wrong size pipes can all drastically effect the pumps performance. Here is what I came up with: I wasn't afraid of drilling the tanks bottom, but it did make the construction of the cabinet a bit tricky as we needed to know exactly where the holes where so they didn't get in the way of the steel frame. So the pump draws water through a 25mm pipe with only a single elbow, which is larger than the output diamater of the pump, ensuring that no microbubbles or cavitation can happen. Also provides less 'suction' from the pipe drawing water, so less likley to suck in something it shouldn't. Water is returned through a 20mm pipe straight up with no elbows in the plumbing, this in theory will ensure that I am getting maximum flow from the pump. Here is a pic showing how unobtrusive the plumbing is in the cabinet. making access to the cabinet and the pumps easy and with little frustrating mess. The pump is an Ehiem 1262. There are 3 of these closed loop systems running through the bottom of the tank in the same configuration. Pies

I suggest you read Eric Bournemans 'Elegance Coral Project' information of Reefcentral.com. There corals have an appauling chance of living in captivity. If its dead or dieing remove it and don't let it rot in your tank. Patience is required to keep marines and 10x more important for corals. I highly suggest you ask for advice before purchasing your next animal and start out with something a little more hardy. FYI The Elegance coral is banned for importation in Europe because of the low survival rates. Good luck Pie

I would think that as long as the water travels the same path it wouldn't matter one bit, as long as the contact time with the water and media remains the same or similar? Pie