Pies

Yeah I think your wrong (which I still think is why your having problems). If you really think about it, it makes sense. Real example. Ever seen a TUNZE Turbelle toploader pump or TUNZE Turbelle power head? If not have a look at the pics on their site. Now have a look at how big the 'strainer' is, why do they may it with such a big strainer? Its a pain having the great big drop down strainer, but they obviously manifcature them like that for a reason. I suspect for the same reason? Also notice the the bigger ehiem pumps have larger intakes than outlets? If you have a 25mm inlet, ANY restriction on the inlet is going to cause problems, hence the reason to drive them with a much larger bore. I got advice on this from Fluid Dynamics here in wellington, who make and use pumps for all sorts of comercial applications (LOTR films!). They were quite clear that for my closed loop pumps I needed a larger pump inlet than outlet. This is why my own tanks 'drilled bottom' changed from being 2x 20mm holes to 1x 20mm (out) and 1x 25mm (in). Stops cavitations and ensures the pump is being driven correctly. I spent ages going through this in the planing and its why I changed my hole sizes, because I belive (through the advice I saught) that its important part of correct pump operation. Pie

PVC piping is not good for C02 but silicone is. Pies

As I understand it, the inlet to the pump needs to be larger then the actualy pump inlet for the pump to work inrestricted. That is if the pump has a 25mm inlet, and 25mm outlet, you should use say a 40mm inlet pipe to the pump, so the pump can suck in a full amount of water and suction is only availabe as the pump inlet, not the inlet plumbing. If that makes sense. Thats what the pump people I have spoken to have told me, wide bore into the pump will keep water being PUSHED into the pump so it doesn't have to DRAG water into it, itself. Pie

Seems strange that air would be sucked down the tube with the water and go as low as the pump? Also a cavitation is when the pump is pushing more water than its sucking. If the pump is bellow the water line, how can air remain trapped in the pump? Shouldn't the pressure of the water flood (thus priming) the pump and off it goes. I had a look at you photos, I wounder if you need to have a bigger pipe taking water from the sump. Even perhapps the 'strainer' you have on the end of the inlet is restricting the flow of water to much? This is the only reason I can see for you having the problems your having, that the pump is unable to suck as much water as it needs. Open up the inlet to the pump or restrcit the outlet, and re-test. I am sure that will fix the problem anyway. Pie

If you are getting air trapped in your plumbing than you have an issue with your plumbing, fix the plumbing and the problem willbe resolved. MAKE sure the iwaki pump is well bellow the water level in the sump. You should be able to drill 'anti reverse syphon' holes in the return plumbing. Now as for a 20sec of less power outage, the answer is obvious, not sure why you want to look for a more complex answerr, use a UPS. I have a UPS the runs my 2 Eheim return pumps ion my current system for about 25 minutes, its a 2000va and its batteries are fuxored. I suspect you could get away with an 800va, which are as cheap as chips (if not free). Check turners PC auctions, they often have millions of UPS at their auctions. I'can buy UPS battries for about $18ea. Pie

Its a good point. Good pumps won't leak. Hence the reason many of us have skimmers with external Ehiem pumps on them etc. They don't leak. Same with your return pump etc too. Pies

What about a custom made wooden box (drip tray) under the tank, sealed by sealient paint? That will make is maximum size for the tank, and hey it doesn't need to be water tight for long, just long enough to divert water to the hole! Not like water is going to sit in there forever! You may have trouble getting it under you cabinet because of supporting legs? Pie

Well I just tested my water for Phosphates on Salifert. Normal, no blue tinge. Double, no blue tinge. Tripple, a very faint hint of blue but hardly noticeable. So that gives me a ppm of 'ok' in my book

A few updated pics. The tank & cabinet will be delivered this Saturday, I expect the 'boys' over as part of the moving crew, followed by BBQ lunch and a few beers. Another tank photo, now the the back and right hand side have been painted. Note the tank in the front is a 3foot tank provided for scale. The cabinet is almost finished, the doors are on, all thats left is the 'tray' needs sealing, latches on the doors and handles for the doors. And a few more coats of linseed oil. Center brace. This is a bit of a radical departure for the tank design. Because the tank is over 7 feet long, the use of a center brace is a give in. However anyone with a tank and center brace knows how much a pain it is to have a big bit of glass across the middle of the tank. It gets dirty and manky and there is always the fear of breaking it. So i opted for a steel (marine grade, sealed) brace bars. This will provide ample strength for the tank center, as well as a 'clear space' for the lights to be uneffected by the center brace (carfull design for placement). It is also strong enough that I can rest a cutting board or bucked on top of it without fear, so it becomes a bit of a work bench for the top of the tank too. So this weekend its move the tank. A big thanks to everyone who has offered to help me move it in, everyone who I need to help move the tank in has been contacted. However if you want to comeover and see it and help out, feel free, we will be fireing up the BBQ at lunch time. Pie

I would expect the RO/DI to contain 0 phosphates? Pies

Zero nitrates is excellent, you must be doing something right. Whatever it is, continue I did my nitrates yesterday, less than 2, so not bad considering how the poor fish get treated at the moment... Pie

I have been buying my carbon in a 15kg sack, $65 delivered. 0 phosphates from my salifert test kit. Its in small granual form. Pies

Cheers for that. Will start looking very closely at bulbs and ballasts in about 4 weeks I guess, and want them sorted within 6 weeks if possible. pie

Yeah reflectors are hard one, i think I will go for the standard multiple bent U shape reflectors for mine, similar to what you are describing. Standard DIY from RC Ballasts, yeah so hard to choose the right one, I think I will just go with hydroponic option, pre-wired, pre-configured. Unless you have a better source (or someone out there can do me a deal on 4x 400watter?). How much for the venture bulbs & where from. You obviously have had no problems with the Coralvue bulbs in your ballasts which is encourgaging as they are the bulbs I think I will use assuming I can get them in ready supply. I may also check out the radium bulbs too as its the most likley place I will get my ballasts from. I think I will try and use 4 400s, with 3foot tubes running width ways across the tank 400-tube-400-tube-400-tube-400 with 4x 5ft T5s runing center lengthways across the tank. Not 100% sure yet. Pie

Fay - Importing is not somthing I would consider myself, as much fun as it could be, there is no way I could find the time or the energy. I have helped Alois out on 3 seperate ocasions when stuff has arrived, and it was quite fun, but also hard work. Very exciting seeing all those things you don't get to see every day, but the stress/worry and other problems would drive me insane in about 2 minutes flat I think. As for mail order, yes it is hard when you can't see what you going to buy. As you may or may not know I have had problems with a few places, so its just a case of finding someone who can be trusted and treats you well. Aquanet/Alois has always taken good care of me via mail order and on the 2 ocasions where I have had proble, has offered a refund or replacement with no fuss or drama. So I just stick with the suppliers who treat me the fairest. Pie

Whats the costs/info on your halides? I need to buy 4 for my new tank, and am shopping around now. I remember we spoke about it a while back, what are you using, what bulbs are you using and have you had any troubble? I am really keen to keep my lighting costs down to a minimum if possible. Also keen to know what you are doing for a relfector. Interesting about a 3rd bulb, when I had (well still have I guess) my 5 footer I wish I had 3 bulbs (250 DE) not 2x. I think you will notice a mega improvemet in lighting from the 3rd. Shame about the fish, esp the Naso, awesome fish but they do get massive. Pie

Layton that looks really good. Your tank is realling comming along nicely and I can see some serious colour and growth compared to previous photos. AWESOME, I am truely impressed. I'd love a highres pic if you can manage it? just email through to me. Also if you have one of your plumbing&sump&lights/reflectors i'd be keen to see that to. My tank is comming along, so its my last change to learn from everyones mistakes before mine starts its bedding in process. Have you removed/lost/sold some fish? I remeber seening banner fish and a Naso tang? The green monti on the left looks well nice. Pies

Average cost of $60-$70 sounds far more reasonable to me. Looks like Reefs comments about bringing down the prices are quite true. That seems to be a big improvement from the prices I last saw (over 6 months ago since I was in Auckland and looked). FAY - I have lots of options for buying live stock and equipment, always mail order as there are no supportive stores down here. As for 'store discounts' Animates have a loyalty program, spend $300 and get a $10 voucher. Thats right, 3%, how they manage to stay in business is beyond me with those sorts of discounts. If your a memeber of the FNZAS and shop at Hollywood they offer a 10% discount, as will most other pet stores (at least many will). Pie

There are 7 holes in total. 3 sets of 2 for closed loops. Each pair has one 25mm hole (inlet) and one 20mm hole (outlet). The reasoning behind the 2 different size holes it to increase pressure for the outlet (higher power because smaller hole) and to reduce the chance of cavitations. This is where the pump is pushing more water than its sucking in, causing air bubbles (micro bubbles). I've had this before and its really frustrating. This can now not happen. The closed loop plumbing inside the tank will also provie support for 'reef racks' to help increase circulation without being visible. Closed loops should total about 11,000 litres an hr of water flow. The last hole is a 40mm single outlet to drain the tank into the sump. This will feed straight down into the sump. I hope its big enough to handle the pump I want to put on it! Inlets will be handeled by 2 3/4inch Sea Swirls. I was so happy with these things on my last tank I knew I would want to use them again. These will be drived from the sump by (i hope) an IWAKI 100 or similar. I still havn't sourced a pump yet (its a money thing). Additional water movement will be provided by TUNZE STREAM circulation pumps (3x currently) and TUNZE TERBELLE power heads (x2 not sure if they will make it into the tank or not yet. Pieman

Well went and had a look at the tank progress today. Should ALL be finished tommorow on Monday and be in my house next weekend. Here is the first glimpse of the tanks cabinet. 4.5mm steel box frame and heart rimu. There will be 2 sets of 2 doors in the front. A picture of the inside of the cabinet. Showing the steel frame and reinforcing. Also not the tank bottom of the cabinet has a floor, this is to act as a drip tray to ensure that no water can spill from the holes in the bottom (3x closed loop pumps) into the lounge, but will fall back to the sump via a 'drainhole'. Must save the house. Peter from Port Nicholson Glass working away. Peter has done an outstanding job on both the tank and the cabinet and I am more than impressed with how everything is working out. The final glass braces are being glued onto the top of the tank, all made from 15mm glass for a little extra help. Note the 2ft fishtank in the foreground to show scale. The center brace will actually be made from stainless steel rods (x2) for extra support. We have had the last tank pop its centre brace and its not something we want to happen again. This will also prove an area strong enough to rest tools, small buckets etc on without the worry of breaking the glass. So next photos should show the tank being moved into the lounge. Pies

I have t5s and have been running them for about 18months. Would I buy them again? Possibly, possibly not. No issues with the ballasts, just shit bulbs I was sold. So far had 5 failures. Am uses NARVA blues and daylight whites. 5ft 84watt Pies

The inside 'cooler' portion is made of ceramic and lots of people use them on Nanos in the states, so confirm its saltwater approval. These devices configured like this are often used by people who want to cool the water in the resivour on their 'water cooled' computers. 1 side gets REALLY got, the side gets REALLY cold. We use peltiers all the time at work for cooling various components in our Datacenters. Can't see it being very usefull or effective on anything larger than a small tank though. Pie

Don't forget to bring it to work on Monday

I don't know how easy it is to frag the LPS type corals. I have been given some 'frags' from green hammers etc. The branching ones are easy, chop of a branch. The shelled ones however, not so easy. I've been given a pearl bubble frag, hammers etc. All survived but the amount of die-off was mega. Anemones - I have Apstasia and Majrno sorted but its a trade seceret I don't want to share. Otherwise no experance. Piemania

I'm with you RnB. Give the profit to the importer. Pie