Pies

Yeah there is one guy breeding Bangai (sp?) Cardinals. LOTS of corals around, soft and hard. Not sure about anything else. If you in Auckland you have a reef club there with people who sell/swap/gift stuff away. Pies

Heya Peet. Be very careful when building a wet/dry using a syphon system. It is VERY easy to have either the tank empty, the sump (wet/dry) overflow and flood and some other problems. I've been through MANY different ideas for wet/dry, and without the use of an overflow and gravity feed its dangerous. There are some syphone action hand on the back overflow systems available, this way the water levels in both remail the same so the syphon can't 'suck air' or empty the tank. As for the maths you are looking for I don't think you will find it. There are some formulas around but they change depending on things like, how much water pressure is above the 'suck' part of the syphon. How far down the syphon is in relation to the waterline of the tank. The with of the tube. Etc. I've got some links to gravity fed sump type designs if you are interested. They explain in some detail (prior problems) the ups and downs of using a syphon action filter over gravity fed/overflow systems. Good luck Pies

I had a skunk Corydoras cat that used to go hard around the tank glass. Went on for months. He is still alive I read in a book once about lack of oxygen. Its says yoy may notice that fish hang around the top of the tank or move eractacly. Maybee fire in an airstone or lower you water level so your filter input crashes the surface. I doubt this is it though just because your other fish seem fine. Good luck, keep us informed.

Nitrate of 0 is good. Means you have good biological filtration and not too much decay. PH 7.2 should be fine for a comunity, infact mine is also 7.2. Yellowing plant leaves can come from a lack of Iron as well as a lack of potassim. Its good to dose some iron supliment. I use 'leaf zone' 2ml every 4 hrs in my 400ltr tank. Sounds like you just have a crazy fish

Kerry. My temp is exactly 24.5C (76.1F). I have 5 of the Siamease Flying Foxes and 2 of the normal ones. My tank is a real mixture, comunity to the max. I would think you temp is prettly much spot on. I would be cautious about changing the tank parameters for just one fish, it may have an adverse effect on the others (based also on the fact you other one is fine). Fish do crazy things, I think Ira is right. Just let it be. Also do you check your water paramaters? Maybee you have high Nitrates or amonias or something? Maybee even a good old fashion lack of oxygen? Pies

Interesting. Here is something to keep in mind. The MAX HEAD relationship that pump makers advertise is based on pumping water from a 0 pressure source UP to the MAX HEAD amount. This is fine for pumps but it changes significantly for canister filters than have PRESSURE supplied by the tank (assuming is above). Canister filers actually pump less water if above the tank than bellow it. This is bacue of their sealed nature, they get to use syphen 'action' to help power the water flow. If you just gravity fed the water down, and then pumped it up, using the same filter, water flow would be DRASTICALY reduced. There is lots of maths on this subject, and I am not smart enough to expalin it all. But if you really want to know exatcly how it all works, try this: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-05/r ... /index.htm Its a good article (the 2nd of 3). May help you out if you need to be more precise with you pump selection, or if you DIY your owen filter. You will need a more powerful pump if its not sealed (sump / wet/dry). Pies

I have stacks of fluro tubes 3tf/4ft that work perfectly but I have replaced them (bulk spares). I replace 1 tube in my tank (a total of 5) every 3 months. So I should prolly replace them slightly more often but I figure it prolly doesn't matter a great deal. When a tube is replaced you can certainly notice it though. Even the tank looks brighter when the new tube goes in and often some plants respond by shooting more runners or growing darker/redder leaves. I am looking a replacing my T12 fluros (standard output fluro) with the newer T5 lights. The are 10% brighter per watt than Metal Halides, and cheap to run (similar to standard output fluro). The REAL advantage is that the tubes have a usefull lifespan of approx 15000 hrs. So you should get about 5 years out of the tubes! They are also rated to light tanks upto 850mm deep, where as anything over 600mm deep is hard work for the standard output fluros. I like to grow plants, so that extra light and cheaper running costs is worth it (I think). I can buy 2x T5 fittings, reflectors, ballasts, 2x 5ft 6000/6500k bulbs for about NZD $380. So if your looking at buying new lighting its a very good option. Aslo with the 24hr cycle. I had my timers crap out once, stuck on. Didn't notice for about a week. My fish looked SUPER stressed, cardials lost colour, odessa barbs went opaquie (sp?). I think a few others went missing. I also noted that some of my plants (crypts, hairgrass, ambula & some swords) started to 'yellow' and their leaf composition went 'mushy'. I had a little more green algae, mostly on the glass where the bristle noses don't really eat it. My PH went up (but I use Co2) and my water looked 'older'. So its BAD to leave them on NOTE: Some people use a 24hr lit tank for saltwater to grow algae in a tank to help export nutriants, but the norm is to light it on an oposite cycle to the main tank. Pies

I have different species on Ambula growing very well in my tank. I have 4ft, 5x 40watt Tubes on a 13hr day cycle. Also with Co2 and 8ml of LEAF ZONE added daily (2ml every 4 hrs). I find that my Ambula does poorly when my Nitrates are high. I also find it does better in shaded areas of my tank. Also try and add some root fertiziler tabs to the gravel may help. good luck.

Heya Nico, As Jane said i've just been through this, have it done by professionals. Also is the overflow system to be used in conjunction with a sump? If so I have some excellent information on overlfow systems with standpipes that allow you controll waterflow and avoid tank drainage as well as being perfectly silent. I've built 2 of these Durso standpipes and know where to get all the bits and pieces from etc. You more than welcome to over and look at my tank if you like. Although it will have water in it very soon (its in the final stages of being built) and i'm just starting to paint the stand. Cheers Pies

Ira, Yeah head pressure is an issue to a degree but then there are bigger pumps available. I just brought an Iwaki for my marine that does 960 Gallon an hr at 100watts... I really like the idea of a filter that I don't have to go through the hastle of dissasembling to clean (i.e. I can just replace the top filter wool). Also getting the heaters, Co2 reactor/bell, themastat in the sump and NOT in the tank appeals. There are a few designs out there that don't requie holes drilled into the tank, using hangon overflows. But it is certainly better to have them in place before hand. Id insert a few pics of my new marine tank, and of my freshwater but I don't know how...

What about a classic wet/dry sump type of filter. Gravity fed from the main tank? Water falls into a 'section of another tank, filled with bio/balls, noodles, filter wool on top. Drops through whatever media you want. Then moves accross through a divider to remove bubbles, the pumped straight back up. This 'basic' design is what I am using when I upgrade my freshwater comunity to a 6ft.2ft.3ft later on in the year. I may also use 1 or 2 over my exisiting canister, but DIY trickle is the business IMHO.

I have settled on FLUVAL, the EHIEM are just too expensive. Often 3x the price of the FLUVAL. As for the primer thing, you only need to pump it 10-15 times then plug it in, sweet. I have brought 5 EHIEM pumps for my reef. There seems to be no doubt from EVERYONE i talked to about pumps. Lots of storys of ehiem pumps running 7+ years 24/7 in saltwater and still going. So I just splashed out. My 2 cents

Agreee, I have 5. 0 algae issies, good tame fish. Good to watch school. I've had some for maybee 2 + years too, so they are quite hardy. Jane has put some small ones in her tank when the RED HAIR ALGAE OF DOOM arrived. She now has none and 3 FAT SFFs

OK. I am unaware of the 'chineese alge eater'. Have you got a link or something with some info/pics?

Am keen. I see no info in the trade & Exchange section though. Does it come with a stand? Are you selling it or giving away? I can collect, I am in Wellington. Cheers Pies [email protected]

Thats an interesting comment about the algae eaters. My tank has 5 Sieamease Alge Eaters & 1x Siemase flying fox. 4x Clown Loach, and about 9-10 Corydoras cats + a million other fish, and havn't witnessed any problems with them. Jane has some small ones in her tank and Corydoras cats, will have to keep an eye on them. Pies

Well I've found some 5ft Philips 03 Actinic bulbs. $45ea OUCH! Esp when I need 4 at a time! I got them from MASTER TRADE on praeitoria street in Lower Hutt Wellington. I rung EVERYWHERE looking too. They guy was really nice and friendly, rung me back and said 'we don't have them, but he has found some in NZ'. I rung Coreys, Lamp Specialists, Bulbman, Lighting Direct, Sylvania etc and noone could help. So thanks MASTER TRADE! W00t. mark

Physically in NZ, Christchurch, but I see he has franchised somewhat. http://www.stylespc.com/contact.asp has all the details incl location, email and physical addr. Pies

Jo i'm in the market for 2-3 Ehiem pumps. Please call me 021 455 946 or email [email protected] with prices on ehiem 1048 1060 1062 1064 or/and ALL other Ehiem pumps (not interested in filters JUST pumps). I was going to place an order this week (for 3) Thanks! PS: I have used John Styles at www.stylespc.com to purchase and setup my watercooled PC and confirm him to be an honest dealer. And he does FREE FREIGHT within NZ. pies

PLANT the refugim!! I personally think that UV for a reef is bad as it will kill all your plankton (which you should have cause you use real seawater). Diatom (brown algae) is normal for a tank that is cycling. Snails and hermit crabs + a planted refugium are the key (or at least thats what I intend to do). + the yello tank loves it anyway. A friends tank had its yellow tang die about 6 weeks ago and the brown algae growth is obvious. Remember why Algae growns, nutrients in the water. So SKIM it out, or grow it out Get into those crabs! Pies

Tried them. They have 4ft, but no 5ft. Well not true they have 160 watt 5ft tubes. I assume they are VHO fluro? Anyone using / tried VHO tubes? Remember I am looking for 03 actinic Pies

I'm setting up a reef at the moment. Cost with OUT stock, $10 per litre (700ltr tank). Marine is EXPENSIVE. Now you can reduce your costs but not keeping coral, then you can downgrade lights, skimmer, water flow etc. Remember you need BIG light to keep an anenonme for the clowns (1x halide will do it, $350 min for a 150watt 10000k). Equipment you WILL need. this is my list if I was setting up a FISH ONLY tank, with perhapps the idea to move to a reef tank later: 1. Skimmer 2. Sump 3. Tank & lights (halide and fluro actinic) 4. heater 5. live rock 6. trickle filter/wet dry 7. test kits etc etc 8. Return pump + Power heads (turn over 10x tank volume hr last) Also it takes about 3-4 months to cycle a marnine tank. I know this can be ingnored with freshwater and a lot of people can setup a tank and put fish in on the same with little real problems. This WILL not happen with marine. You have been warned Go for it and do it! I am not an expert by any means but I am VERY well read, and will have saltwater in my 700ltr in the next 10 days. Bigger tanks will work out cheaper and easier in the long run, as there will be less need for maintenance. Gotta run, brb

In the latest issue of Marine UK there is an article about a guy with a boxing shrimp. He was sick of it, for whatever reason, so he put it outside in a tank (looked like a platic bucket of sorts). He said its been out there for months, and now its winter. He went out and looked in it, suspecting it would have died, but saw it crawling along the bottom of the tank. He broke the ice on top, droped in some flake and it came to the surface and fed. He also took a photo! Pretty cool.

As readers here know I am starting a reef aquairum. What I need are some 5ft Actinic Blue fluro tubes or a place where I can get them in NZ. The tank will run with Halides as well, but i want the 4x NO fluro actinic blues too. Anyone with contacts or part numbers let me know. The ones sold in petshops are called 'blue moons'. Cheers Mark

Looks very cool indeed. I can't wait to see a pic with water and gravel in it. I do have a question though. In the last photo I can see the filter intake and out-takes going in behind the 'rockface', how will this get water & detroitus from the front display section? Also what will stop fish from living behind the tank and not in front of it? Ohhh and be carefull not to let the heater touch it, as it could melt? Looks awesome though, can't wait to see it finished, as a friend is looking at setting up a bigger take for her cichlids, and theat is a great way to start! Good luck and keep the photos rolling in!