DIY Making the All Glass Tank.

[Pegasus]

Hi Members

I visited ‘The Krib’ website recently and looked over the various issues regarding tank manufacture from either glass or wood. Having done both I would like to share my ideas with you. These are my experiences, and your results are fully dependent on your actions and how you approach the project, and I take no responsibility for any disasters.

This article will be on All Glass Tanks, and a separate article on Wooden Tanks will be posted elsewhere. Nothing in either article was taken from the above site, but it is interesting reading if you care to visit.

I built well over 100 A/G tanks in the beginning some years back ranging from 12x12 to 72x24x24, with no disasters, and NONE of them had top strips as you see today on all the tanks. If you feel adventurous and want to ‘do your own thing’, then read on.

First make yourself a gig from a piece of flat board about half inch thick, the size of which must be slightly bigger than the base size of your tank. Nail 1"x1" strips to this base to the exact size you'll need for your base glass. Ensure the strips are absolutely square with your base glass. (No side, upright bits, just the four strips on the base) Find a place where it won't be moved for a day or two before you start work.

One important factor in all glass tanks is absolute cleanliness, ie, no finger marks. Clean your glass first with meths, or white spirit.

Take note when cutting, or getting the glass cut, that you need the front and rear sheets to overlap the side pieces, so that when assembled the edges of the sides don't show in the front view. Personally I prefer the upper parts to sit on TOP of the base glass, but both methods work here as I tried both, and strength was not effected. If you're getting it cut somewhere, check the measurements before you accept it, they may not accept a return.

Obtain a good quality Silicone Sealer, and make sure it is from a reputable brand and used for GLASS, (preferably for aquariums) as many aren't. Building Sealers WON"T WORK, so don’t even think about them.

Attach eight bits of packing tape to the base glass so that each piece extends out around 2†(50mm) These strips will hold each of the sheets of glass into position. Place the base glass into your gig and then stand your front and one of the sides into your gig ensuring that they are dead square. Hold together with the sellotape or a good packing tape in several places up each edge at the corners. Use the base tapes to secure each piece as you work from front to back. Now assemble the remaining side and back in the same manner ensuring all is square and well taped to hold into position.

A "Chalking Gun" as used by builders is idea to apply the silicone, and you'll need a cartridge of silicone if you intend making more than one tank.

Cut a nice angled (45deg) opening on the cartridge about a quarter inch (6-7mm) down the nose. This will give you a nice "Fillet" of silicone as you apply it. It takes a bit of skill to use the cartridge gun, but don't worry, and don't rush it.

Start by sealing the bottom first, then the front and sides. Aim for a good clean "fillet" on each seam, and try to get all seams even. Myself personally, I wait around for half an hour until the silicone just starts to skin, then gently wipe my finger up each seam thereby creating a smooth seam. A little warning.

Don't try to dress the seams up with a knife, or similar object, as most seams are almost invisible once the tank is filled. The other point is, "Don't Rush the job, and don't be in a hurry to fill it, wait at least three to four days, more if you can.

Any sharp exterior edges can be dressed off with an old oilstone or something similar, and again, just take your time and be very careful, the edges are sharp.

Glass thickness. (The Krib has a lot of dated technical data on this, so you may like to read it) I didn’t, as in my early experiments it was “try it and see†:smile:

I'm a bit of a daredevil, and in the late sixties was one of the pioneers in the UK for starting the all glass tank craze. My shop was filled with old rusty angle iron tanks of all shapes and sizes, so I built around 60 for the main shop, and umpteen more for breeding. I then sold several hundreds to shops and individuals around the country, and only ever had one returned, but that’s another story.

For up to 24x24x12 (600x300x300) I used 32oz window glass. For my breeding tanks, tanks that were not on show, I used Greenhouse Glass, (much cheaper) For anything up to 5 foot (1500mm) I used 1/4 plate, with cast glass on the base to save on costs.

My final creation was a six by two by two (1800x600x600mm) all in 3/8 plate glass, (Recovered from a shop window that got smashed locally)

Your tank should be ready for filling in 3-4 days. For the nervous, you might want to fit top strips and a cross brace as seen on ready made tanks, but as stated, I never did.

Diverting slightly, but still on the topic, a very nice display tank for Betta’s can be made by building a tank as above, but then siliconing partitions from front to back so that you could perhaps view six or eight fish at once. If the partitions were fixed leaving a gap at the base, then heat would be allowed to pass through the whole array of sections. An u/g filter would assist with this by making the return have several outlets, one for each section. There are also grilled plastic sheets as used over office light fittings. These sometimes become available and would make ideal partitions.

Back to the AGTs. If you visit your glass supplier you'd be surprised just how much glass they throw out, (sneak around the back and have a nosey) ie, bits with a tiny obscure mark on them, which in your case would suit the base etc.

Final words. Making your own AGTs is great fun, and after the first couple, (of hundreds) it becomes real easy.

Don’t worry, you’ll be an expert after your first try, if you just take your time, and make sure you stand your A/G tank on a firm solid surface with a thin (1/2â€) polystyrene pad on the base. Don't place heavy metal hoods on A/G/Ts as they expand and contract with the temp differences. I also made several 4foot x4foot by 4foot tanks of WOOD and I will write a further article on this subject soon.

Best of luck, hope this helps. Contact me if you have doubts, or post a message.

Bill (Pegasus NZ.)

[Joey]

Just letting you know, that you have well and truly gotten me addicted to making my own tanks. The first one has not leaked since I last told you, so keeping my fingers crossed it won't start.

Just curious, I was down at the local glass cutter the other day (getting 10mm cut,lol) and he told me that the tempered glass I had would not be able to be used to make a tank. I know it can't be cut, but why can't it be used? I think he was just an idiot, but maybe he was right. Thought you would be the right one to ask.

I got my hands on 4 sheets of it, 6mm and 5"x 1.5". Advantages of working in a shopping centre.

[Michael]

Really great to find this article on tank-making. I did a few web searches on this and was surprised to get nothing. I had thought there would be a lot of info out there.

I tendered on a couple of sets of old shower doors at the Manawatu Tender Centre. One was tempered glass, 3 panes about 1.6m by 50cm, the other 4 panes of laminated glass the same length but narrower. I missed out on the former, got the latter for $11. I figured I could use three panes for the front, back and base, and scratch around for something for the ends. I might have a go at cutting one laminated pane though (for the tank ends), because I think it may be faintly possible.

Anyway, I'm interested to see what info turns up about laminated or tempered glass. These old shower units might be a good source of cheap glass. Anyone used them before?

Michael.

[Pegasus]

Hi Joey, and you Michael,

I've personally cut glass up to 1/2" thick with few failures, but the laminated glass you mention Michael will not cut successfully. Laminated is just what it says, 'layers of glass bonded together' It's designed not to break, so it may be a good idea not to attemp to cut it. Never used shower door glass, which has often got ripples in it, but hey, for $11 bucks it's worth a try, I certainly would. Somewhere in these files is a reference to the tensile strength of glass for a particular thickness. I'll dig it up and post it here for you. Thanks for the input. One word of warning Once you make your first one you'll get addicted

Hey Joey, how are those clowns doing (lotsa babies I hope )

I'm not a glass expert by any means, and glass is a material that reacts differently to many situations, but to be quite honest I can't really see why tempered glass can't be used. I do believe, and I may be wrong, that many of the commercial tanks we see today have at least one pane of tempered glass. The 6mm stuff you mention, is that 5foot by one point five foot, as it looks like inches on your post. (could be my failing eyes ) Gotta dig that old curved windscreen out and give it a try

Now about those clown loaches........

Great to hear from you both. Keep postin

Regards Bill (Pegasus)

[cees]

Somewhere in these files is a reference to the tensile strength of glass for a particular thickness.

[Pegasus]

Thanks Cees, I hadn't had time so search for the info.

Here's the info Joey and Michael, compliments of Cees, hope it helps you out.

Regards

Bill (Pegasus)

[Joey]

Sorry, it is in foot. Not your eyes at all, I put inches.

[Pegasus]

Hi Joey,

The glass you have sounds choice at 6mm, and if, and I say if, it was me I would turn it into a 4'x18"x18" (1200mmx450mmx450mm) tank, but due to the depth of the tank I would use braces all around the upper edges and across the centre, even possibly two braces. 40mm wide would do for these. Go careful, no accidents please

Your cutting will allow you to get a front and a back, base and two ends from four sheets of the size you have, with enough bits left to act as braces. Might be worth getting it cut for you to start, making sure the front and back overlap the two sides as in my article.

It would certainly look brilliant at that depth, (I'm jealous) and my advise is to read over the article again and make sure your glass is spotless before sealing or cutting. They say practice makes perfect, and I made a lot of mistakes cutting glass in my early attempts, so if you have access to some offcuts get yourself a decent glass cutter, preferably diamond, but not essential, and practice practice practice. Soon you'll be able to cut narrow pieces effortlessly. Once the tank is "Taped" as in the article it should only take ten minutes or so to apply the sealer. BOL (Best O Luck) PS: Can you ship some of that glass over here in a big envelope .

Keep in touch

Regards Bill (Pegasus)

[Joey]

I am not going to bother with a glass cutter. The glass place I use charges $10 for up to 25 cuts, and guarantees any breakages. Can't go past that offer. This applies for glass up 10mm.

[Warren]

The differences between standard annealled float glass and tempered glass:

Float glass is soft (relatively) and has a tensile strength of approx 19.3 to 28.4 N/mm2

Its failure mode is normally a single (sometimes multiple) diagonal semi-straight crack. This will normally allow time for some rescue of the tank occupants or the tank will only empty down to the crack level.

Tempered glass is quite different. It is approximately 5 times stronger than float glass.

Its failure mode however is quite spectacular. You will hopefully have seen a broken windscreen on and old car. This is what happens and the whole front, side, or bottom of the tank will shatter and fall away. No time for rescues. All that will be left is a wet floor, flapping fish and thousands of tiny cubes of glass.

The size sheets you have are great. They will make a very good tank. You probably wouldn't need top bracing, but I'd use it for security. The tank will be very strong.

[Fatman]

Dam,, looks like I have the bug to make a few tanks, what will the wife say :roll:

The only problem is the cost of elements ,

[Pegasus]

Hi Fatman,

No matter what you hear or are told, making your own glass tanks is cheaper and a great experience provided you can find a cheap source of glass, and the places to look are the glass dealers themselves who have offcuts and rejects that are suitable for your needs.

Demolition companies handle a lot of glass, and at times you may find suitable glass in the form of old damaged wooden windows that is quite suitable for smaller sized tanks, perhaps up to 600x300 if you follow the guides given above. Old mirrors are not bad, (But a lot of work to clean, and can be brittle) and I have used many in my time, but the ultimate is the shop window as in Joey's post. If you can source some of these you're onto a winner. Occasionally you get someone stripping a greenhouse. This glass is suitable for shallow breeding tanks, and invariably the sheets are less than a buck apiece and is a great place to start if you just want breeding tanks. Look in the papers and on the net under the various weekly's, Trademe, Trade & Exchange, Loot, and others.

Start small to begin with, make a few small ones until you perfect the principal, then go crazy like I did Great stuff.

How about telling us a bit more about yourself and those loaches in the Welcome section.

Take care.

Regards Pegasus.

[Fatman]

This might be a silly question, but what is the tecnique (sp) to cutting glass straight, I have cut glass in the past with varing degrees of success

I have been told small wheel cutters are a waste of time,, are they ?

or should i invest in a better diamond cutter ?

cheers

[Pegasus]

Hi Terry,

There is a 'technique' to cutting glass successfully, and possibly before you perfect it you'll have a lot of mistakes.

My method, (JMO, Just my opinion) is to start with a good firm padded base to lay your glass on. A firm table or the floor will do with possibly an old wollen blanket or something that won't be used for other things to act as padding.

Hold the cutter so that it's neck rest in the crook of your thumb and index finger and with the underside of the head resting on your middle finger place your index finger just behind the head of the cutter and allow your thumb to steady it on the left hand side, (If you're right handed.)

Imagine you're holding a paint brush.

Place a good straight edge between the points you need to cut across and after lubricating the 'wheel' if you're using a wheel cutter, (I use kero and linseed oil) draw the cutter across the glass in an almost upright position while keeping the side of the cutter firmly against the straight edge and dead square to the glass.

Heavy pressure is not needed, but a constant pressure across the full cut is. Holding the straight edge still may be a prob, so you may need some help. Run the cutter only once across making sure you start and finish off both edges. I find a straight edge between 12-25mm thick is best as it controls the side of the cutter and is also suitable as the snapping bar.

Slip your straight edge under the glass and in line with the cut and push firmly and evenly down on both sides of the glass. It should part cleanly.

On thin glass a pencil can replace the straight edge in doing this and would be placed at one side and the pressure applied at either side of the pencil causing the cut to run across the glass. If you started off the edge, and finished off the edge, then tapping of the glass is not needed.

Unless you intend cutting major amounts of glass, a diamond cutter will serve no purpose, and contrary to what people think, the diamond cutter can be damaged instantly in the wrong hands and is no guarantee to cutting glass perfectly.

Spotlessly clean glass, lubricated cutter, even constant pressure, and a good straight edge is all you need along with lots of practice.

If you need further info just email me, I'll be glad to help.

Take care, and watch out for the splinters

Regards

Pegasus.

[Joey]

Another good place to find glass is in a trader type newspaper (ie Trading Post). Look under "shop fiitings" or "building materials". Sometimes you may find something in freebies or bargains under $50.

Last week I bought 8 tanks (ranging from 15L to 40L), a trailer load of glass and 3 air pumps, all for $40. Only 5 of the tanks are repairable, but the sheets of glass alone are well worth the money. Most of the sheets are at least 3ft x 2ft.

If you hunt around for bargains, you will, 9 times out of 10, find them.

[Fatman]

Thank you for the fantastic reply to my glasscutting question, I will follow your directions and let you know how i get on

[Pegasus]

My pleasure Terry, just take care, and if you find time have a crack (excuse the pun) at the quiz

[Fatman]

Well I have just assembled my 2nd tank, much better effort that the first, although the first is filled with water and holding a few goldfish, hasn't leaked,, yet :-? , I noticed I had a few bubbles between the joints but have totaly eliminated that on the 2nd tank with a bit of pressure on the joints, now if only I could get real neat and` clean joints without to much silicon oooze around the joints, but thats practice I guess :lol:

[Pegasus]

Well I have just assembled my 2nd tank

Welcome to the bug Terry.

After running the fillet up the seams leave it for five minutes, then damp your finger and run it gently up the seams and this will give a nice finish. This also forces the silicone into the seams and into the tiny imperfections where the glass was cut.

Practice makes perfect... Make another one... or two... or three... :)