Shilo Posted January 9, 2003 Report Share Posted January 9, 2003 I'm up to thinking about light systems for my 3' 125ltr tank. At the moment I'm using the old 18W tube from the small tank as a temporary measure. During a spending spree I got a 30W Aqua-Glo tube and have a suitable ballast on order from the local Ideal store. I plan to cannablise the fittings of the 18W and mount those and the new ballast into my home made hood. I know 30W in a 125 ltr planted tank won't be enough, but I want to do it on the cheap. What other types of lights are suitable. I was hoping those economy flouresent bulbs that fit in a normal light socket can be used. Will they help, hinder, or make no difference to plant growth? Do you have any other ideas of suitable lights? I'm very limited on the amount of hardware I can mount in the hood since I made it a bit to low profiled. :oops: Thanks in advance Cheers Shilo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted January 9, 2003 Report Share Posted January 9, 2003 I have often used those small fluorescents that fit the ordinary light sockets and they work well. There is another thread somewhere here regarding making hoods for them out of plastic guttering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus Posted January 9, 2003 Report Share Posted January 9, 2003 Hi Shilo, If you happen to get into Auckland you can buy cheap flouro light fittings here, all sizes. http://www.surplustronics.co.nz/cat.php?cat=MP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted January 10, 2003 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2003 Hee hee, hows this for customer service. As stated above I had ordered a 30W ballast from the local Ideal Elect store. I was quoted $40, which is probably steep, but its Waiheke and you pay a premium for anything. Anyway I noticed the Thorn lighting ctns come through work yesterday (I work for a freight company) so went to pick up the ballast at lunchtime. When I asked about it the manager brought out a ctn containing the complete bracket. Not wanting to pay for the works I reminded him I just wanted the ballast. He apologised and offered me the bracket (including the ballast) for the same quoted $. Of course I happily accepted and since I no longer needed to sabotage the 20w fitting I had, I asked if he had a suitable tube (my 5 year old one was nearly dead). He then threw in a 20W Gro-lux tube as well for no charge. Its good to see such service is still around. I would have been happy with just the ballast from the bracket. Now I have 50W running in the tank and on the look out for miniature 8) for the tetras!! Since I mounted the brackets in the hood I have no more room for extra lights, but will mount all the electrics remotely in the stand some time in the future thus freeing up room for another 30W. Thanks for your suggestions guys. Cheers Shilo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted January 10, 2003 Report Share Posted January 10, 2003 Lucky you! It is good when you get such helpful service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1 Posted January 26, 2003 Report Share Posted January 26, 2003 Hi Shilo Try to get "push-on" flouro sockets. They are waterproof. The ballast, I would mount seperately. Like some bought units. Then the height of the fitting is almost the thickness of the tubes. So, very low profile. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted January 27, 2003 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 I would love to get the push on sockets, but where? :-? I asked at the local Ideal (the only electronic supply here) and got blank looks. But they are definitely planned for. I have already brought the extra wire and connectors to mount the ballasts and starters separately just looking out for these sockets. If I can't find any I can still use the end caps off the brackets but this will not gain as much room as the sockets. Anybody know where I can get these sockets online? Or else does anybody know the trade name? Took the hood apart today and painted the inside high gloss white. Meant to have better reflective properties then the tin foil I was using. Seems to be a slight improvement but this is probably because more area is covered then previously. Cheers Shilo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1 Posted January 27, 2003 Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 Hi Shilo My LFS does sell the complete units. Will ask next time if there are spare parts available. Keep you posted John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus Posted January 27, 2003 Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 Hi Shilo, Try here, http://www.surplustronics.co.nz/cat.php?cat=MP They are at the top of Queen St, but you can view online before going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted January 27, 2003 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 Thanks John1, Getting to a LFS is major undertaking for me with the ferry and buses etc I can right off most of a day just to visit the closest. If you could ask I would be grateful since I could then order by mail. Pegasus, I have looked at this site and the closest thing I could find was MP34 Bulb Holder. BC. Batten Ceiling Type $6.00 Not sure if this is right. I'm really after the sort which push onto the end instead of the twist type. They are also splash proof - an important consideration with a low profile hood. An example of what I'm thinking off: But are they available in NZ? Thanks Guys Shilo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1 Posted January 27, 2003 Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 HI Shilo The one I mean looks like the rubberhood on most heaters. Just the thickness of the thin rubber bigger than the tube. AND waterproof. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted January 27, 2003 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 Sounds even better. Was confused when I found this pic since I had read somewhere they were made of rubber. The smaller the better in my case (or should that be hood ) It would be good to get the ballast away from the tank. Surprisingly the old 20w ballast throws out a lot more heat then the new 30w. Both are the same sort. Cheers Shilo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1 Posted January 27, 2003 Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 Hi Shilo As soon as I have the dough, I will buy that setup. 2 tubes, rubber connectors and a remote-mounted ballast. 1 ballast gives off more heat than 4 tubes. On my single tube light, I can hardly touch the reflector. That hot. And when you have an enclosed system, hood that is, the heat can hardly escape. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1 Posted January 28, 2003 Report Share Posted January 28, 2003 HI Shilo Can only get complete units here in Australia. But they are available in the states. Here is how they look like; http://home.iprimus.com.au/john1/triton.htm If you like them, you can order them from the U.S. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus Posted January 28, 2003 Report Share Posted January 28, 2003 Hi Shilo, I use the standard "Bi Pin" fittings that are at the ends of most flouro's, and have my tubes in the hood and the balasts out of sight. To waterproof I just slipped a length of bicycle innertube over the tube, then rolled it back over the holder. Makes a tight watertight fitting, at little cost, and it prevents the push on "bi pin" fitting from dropping off. I haven't had a moments prob with mine after almost a year of fitting it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1 Posted January 28, 2003 Report Share Posted January 28, 2003 Hi Pegasus Good idea. There is something similar to heatshrink material, which I always use. But this shrinks much more. For instance the size of the tube down to the connecting wires. The clips, albeit metal, can be easily purchased from any good hardwarestore. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted January 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2003 Thats it!!!! Thanks guys. I'll get started in the weekend. Can always mold epoxy around the back of the "Bi Pins" and wire to protect from any water getting in. Just hope I still have an old bike tube layering around, (the old 10 speeds will be the right size) else will settle for the standard shrink tube which is the only sort I've seen sold here. A bit iffy about working with 240V but will know if I've done something wrong if the scales on the fish stand up on end Now wheres that NO. 8 wire? Cheers & thanks again Shilo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1 Posted January 28, 2003 Report Share Posted January 28, 2003 Hi Shilo I am happy for you. If you are unsure about the wiring, the net has plenty of examples. But, if necessary, I always do that, take the original, any, flouro lightfitting apart. Then make a drawing where the 240v , starter and ballast go. Then just copy it. Once you've done one, you'll never forget. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1 Posted January 28, 2003 Report Share Posted January 28, 2003 Hi Shilo This is an update We might be a bit too paranoid about waterproofing it. Think about it. None, does not matter how expensive the normal flouro lightfittings for aquariums, are waterproof. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted January 29, 2003 Report Share Posted January 29, 2003 Why do you need waterproof ones?? I use standard fittings on all my fluro's. My 8' tanks has 8 fluro's in it and no special precautions for waterproofing the tubes. I do have covers on the tank however. This stops vitually all evaporation and stops any condensation on the inside of the hood. With that many fluro's, the hood is fan cooled anyway so there could be no condensation. If you have good enough covers on your tanks you don't need special fittings. If you buy a complete unit from your LFS you will likely pay over $100 for a dual 5' and more for one with waterproof fittings. You can pick one up from the local wholesaler for approx $40.00 including tubes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1 Posted January 29, 2003 Report Share Posted January 29, 2003 Hi Warren I never said you need waterproof fittings!!!!! I said none of the normal aquarium lightfittings are water proof. NONE John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted January 29, 2003 Report Share Posted January 29, 2003 Never said they were either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted January 29, 2003 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2003 Hi Warren We might be a bit too paranoid about waterproofing it and John1 Why do you need waterproof ones?? I don't really need waterproof fittings (we should be saying splash proof) but I would like them for added security. I have a piece of glass which covers 1/2 the tank where the tubes are. The other half I like to leave uncovered for a) ease of access and b) my tank had a center support strip which was unnecessary (9mm glass) so I removed it. The front 1/2 of the cover glass was made up of 2 pieces (now used in my filer) and they needed this center strip for support. I can't imagine any water splashing over the cover glass and reaching the tubes - but???? Other reasons for removing the standard brackets are: Heat - the 20W fitting is almost to hot to touch with the ballast in it and Lack of room - The top of the hood is only 90mm above the cover glass so the 30W (3') fitting has to be mounted on its side. I would like to stick another 30W tube in the hood to get 80 watts in total, but still have the access I have now. Using these end caps I can have the tubes closer together and nearer the top of the hood. All in all the brackets must go. And now thanks to this forum I have the means and the way. All setups are different. The end caps just suit mine better. Now if I'm going to get rid of the brackets anyway a little bit of added splash proof protection won't make much difference in time or expense. Of course it would have been easier if I had made the hood higher, but I like the look of the design. Cheers Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted January 29, 2003 Report Share Posted January 29, 2003 I don't have the ballasts etc inside the hood. Only the tube is inside mounted on a fitting shaped like a tombstone (in fact this is what they are often called at the wholesaler). I once made a hood only 65mm thick using these fittings. I normally gut the fluro fitting for the parts. It is sometimes cheaper to buy the whole fitting than the seperate parts if there is a 'special' on fittings. The tombstones only cost about $1.00 each. There are several different styles to suit different mounting methods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted February 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2003 Update: The joys of DIY! Just finished the light system. Spent 6hrs on it last night and another 4 today. The problem? Old - very old 20W fittings. The tombstones were so brittle with age one snapped and had to be glued together. Unlike the 30w, these are one piece. I dismantled the 20W and wired up the ballast & starter in the 30W bracket. This made a nice and secure holding box mounted inside the stand. Using terminal connectors I then extended the tombstone wires so they would reach inside the hood. Before mounting in the hood and stand I laid out the whole system on the floor and tested it. Both bulbs worked brilliantly (excuse pun). But once I put everything in place the 20w refused to go :evil: Checked all wiring and connections and tore my hair out before I noticed the bulb was not clicking into position with one of the tombstones (not the repaired one). It was stuffed. Gave up this morning and tore all the 20w parts from the system. Then went to Placemakers and got 2 standard lamp fittings and 2x 21w energy saver fluorescents. Wired up the lamp fittings back to back and clipped them to the roof of the hood. Within 1/2hr of turning it on the plants were pearling so much it looked like each had an air stone!. Now have 72w in there which seems to be plenty. Cheers Shilo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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