tel Posted August 11, 2005 Report Share Posted August 11, 2005 im just about to order my 1st marine tank. 1500-600-600 main tank,1200-600-600 sump directly below. eheim 1260 return @ 2400lth 3.7 head (stated), pump to main inflow @ 2.8 vertical.rectangular overflow centre of tank@ 180-120 with durso standpipe,main tank inflow adjacent to overflow box (box higher on 3 sides,comb on low side away from inlet,trying to get pipes centralish) sump order-deltec skimmer,baffles,caulerpa section,baffles,then return pump. question-what size for plumbing? is 25mm ok? -looking at 12-15mm glass, back and front to eliminate centre brace on main tank any comments/advice would be greatly appreciated,thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted August 12, 2005 Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 Sounds good. Flag the caulerpa, it's really not needed. I assume it's going to be a reef? What sort of lighting are you looking at. I would recommend 3 250W halides (offset, two towards the back, the centre one closer the the front). What about flow? You could go with tunze streams, or closed loop. (I prefer closed loop, a little less intrusive, but more plumbing) Layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted August 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 fowlr naked reef to begin,then softies then onwards.keeping it simple so 2-1100lh and 2-600lh powerheads,seio's/tunzes later.t5 4 tube to start and halide +t5 later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted August 12, 2005 Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 Cool. T5's are a good option, and can be used in conjunction with halides when you move into keeping other corals. I guess the key is to minimise the equipment that becomes redundant (due to being under powered) when you want to progress to keeping other animals. This usually means starting off with a good skimmer, as it is one of the more expensive and important items. Layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogmatix Posted August 12, 2005 Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 Why's the sump 600 high might be a bit impracticale. depends on your stand though. Sounds sweet any way good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted August 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 got a deltec 1250t and prob go 1060t a fair bit later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted August 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 actually sump only 500,my typo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianemone Posted August 12, 2005 Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 you want to skim as much of the surface as possible as to remove a higher ratio of surface proteins. i would suggest having the overflow comb the whole way around the box to skim as much as possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted August 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 ok.do you see a problem having the inlet close to the box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianemone Posted August 12, 2005 Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 ?? didnt quite follow. the idea is that the same amount of water is going to go over the over flow(that is dictated by the plumbing and return pump), what you need to consider is how much of the water going down the overflow is from the surface Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted August 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 im wanting to keep both pipes central, so inlet will be close to overflow box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianemone Posted August 12, 2005 Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 all depends on what the water flow is doing, you obviously dont want water going down the overflow that has just come back up from the sump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted August 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 maybe ill shift it down the tank.is 25mm good for all plumbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianemone Posted August 12, 2005 Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 depends on howmuch flow you want, small pipes will restrict the flow, im using 32mm for my closed loop and return pipe and probably the size larger for the overflow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buzzy Posted September 4, 2005 Report Share Posted September 4, 2005 sorry to butt in on the thread, Brianemone, just out of curiosity, what size holes need to be drilled in the glass for the bigger pipe on overflow, would you have a 32mm hole and then have a reducer into the durso?or have say a 42mm hole?sorry im only beginning with the whole reef thing.can you buy 42,32mm bulkheads?thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianemone Posted September 4, 2005 Report Share Posted September 4, 2005 hey, turns out ill be using 25mm, the bulk heads come in pretty much every size 25,32.... ill be using 2x25mm for the over flow, that then go to 32 for the stand pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted September 4, 2005 Report Share Posted September 4, 2005 Add 5mm for the Tank Inlets (bulkhead is not what they call then in NZ). Add 10mm for the 50mm otherwise 5mm is fine for 40mm and smaller. Drilling the hole. My 5 footer has duel 25mm holes/dursos/overflows and it can just keep up (big pump though). I would reccomend going BIG, like 40mm Tank Inlet (bulk head), with 40mm stand-pipe. I would then reduce down to either 32mm or 25mm for everything else. Why, one thing everyone here has learned, is you can't make a hole bigger without much hastle and risk. However it only costs about $2 to make a hole smaller So go 40, reduce to 32 or 25. My personal experance has shown me that there are no downsides to using larger plumbing, and many downsides to using smaller. Of your not sure between 25 and 32, go 32. Good luck, sounds like a good projects. Take it slow, take your time. Your on the right track by sorting out your tank logistics first. Get all the plumbing etc done before you start, and you will be onto a success. Ohh you asked how close the inlet and outlet? It really won't matter, do what looks/works best. If you want to get tricky, you could pumb one through the overflow box. Can be awkward (so i've read, never donw it, but have thought about it), but will keep everything nice and tidy. See ya. Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted September 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2005 thanks for everyones advice.after seeing 3 tanks off here in person, im going 32mm outlet with( 40mm durso in corner) and 2x 25mm inlets on bottom spaced out so each is 500 in from end and 500 between the two.(tank is 1500 long)im prob going to have 2x stainless end braces ala pies(no centre brace,running 2x skinny front and back braces instead) water dynamics have been really good about seeing me twice to change to larger fittings :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted September 12, 2005 Report Share Posted September 12, 2005 Tel - Beware you don't want to have the inlets (from the sump) on the bottom. If you do and the power cuts, the system will drain out through it (this is not a syphon just draining) out. I would reccomend either having the inlets drilled very close to the top of the waterline (say the same level as the bottom of the overflow comb) or not drilling and going over the top (sea swirl later on perhaps?). Good luck, can't wait to see it setup. Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted September 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2005 im gonna come up @550 and have an elbow as i want the tank hard against the wall.ive got black piping to disguise them abit.ill be using an eheim 1260 to start and may plug one return, until i get the mother of pumps.thinking about putting 2x non return valves on for pump failure and count on some siphon capacity, but i really want to get inlets a little lower than the top.after seeing james tank i really want the return pump to be really grunty and provide some good effect for w/m.seeing his,im dropping the overflow @60 below top tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buzzy Posted September 15, 2005 Report Share Posted September 15, 2005 if i had a 40mm( hanson fitting ) inlet to the sump do i need a 45mm dorso?if so where would be a good place to get 45mm pvc pipe( mico doesnt sell 45mm here.? also with a eheim return pump can i split the return pipe 32mm into 2 holes going in the back of the tank?, or just have 1,i will have 2 closed loops in the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianemone Posted September 15, 2005 Report Share Posted September 15, 2005 with an eheim i wouldnt bother splitting the return, the stand pipe on a durso should be bigger than the hole in the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted September 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2005 can anyone suggest a good way to make reef racks/suppliers of materials?tank only a week away,stand to be made next yaa!! when i look at the start date of this thread it seems like ive been stuffing around like an old #&*@#!i better get up with the photo shiz so i can document it,seems nothing better than seeing pics of how others do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianemone Posted September 15, 2005 Report Share Posted September 15, 2005 plastic light difuser(egg crate) and pvc piping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted September 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2005 where for art thou? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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