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breeding discus ?


henward

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ok

when free swimming, they feed off the parents right.

how long?

i mean, at same time can you supplement with pellets?

crushed up?

does it have to be brine shrimp? i prefer to use other food.

can i use pellets crushed up at this age?

what is roughly the time line from hatch to eating off parents slime and how long will they eat off parents slime ?

i am told 4 weeks you can remove parents completely?

can you remove them earlier?

or will they keep eating slime?

i guess main question is, if i crush up very finely pellets, can i feed this instead of having to cultivate brine shrimp.

if someone could give me a roughl timeline from egg laying to removing parents. also when solids/shrimps are fed to them if pellets are ok that is.

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Brine shrimp is by far the best, from what i've read. (It also boosts the reds, shhhh :wink: )

Seeing as they are discus, i would go all out to feed them. Hatching brine shrimp isn't too hard?

The nutrients in crushed pelets wont be as good as the BBS. Also, BBS and the discus, if its the same as angels?? will be attracted to light. Small live food is more appealing to babys =]

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I have no idea on discus but I would be fairly confident that the parents would feed the babies through the initial delicate stage for the first few weeks and after that I am sure the babies would start onto pellets finely crused or even decap brineshrimp.. There is only one way to find out :)

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Have you bred them already?

You certainly hit the ground running so well done.

I would leave them with the parents if this is your first batch because just watching swimming with mum and dad is an amazing site.

Your post seems to suggest that you don't want to use BBS but that is the best food because its high in protein and also it jumps in front of the babies noses asking to be eaten.

Other food can be used but why not use the best avaliable

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If you dont want to hatch the brind shrimp, then use decapsulated brine shrimp. When you see them leaving the parent side to try to eat some of their food, then start feeding them. As for separating them, you can seperate them earlier, but as long as the parents arnt getting stressed out by them, then leave them will the parents. Be warry of using pallets to soon with them, as the pallets can swell up a bit, which can cause problems with their small stomachs.

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haha

not yet!

but, i believe with the right research, i am getting opinions all over, and compiling my own TRIAL so to speak from what i hear.

i was going to wait for the black aro to grow up and the tank to free up, but my white butterfly, snow white is laying, and the super checkerboard male and albino male is courting the females and paring up.

i figure, i would like to cross the white butterfly with the albino male which i believe is an albino snow white OR, just cross the normal snow white with the albino snow white see what comes out.

i will probably have a tank set up and isolated the pair by months end if budget allows.

the extra power should only be about 15 dollars max a week. affordable.

then when the black aro grows then i will have 2 breeding tanks, thats for my white snow leopard to breed in.

my approach is to remove the parents, not the babies, and put the parents back into the community tank after breeding to feed, fatten and re strengthen.

i have had people saying that pellets are good, they also have massive nutrients but must be small and YES, pre swelled so they dont swell in the babies stomach.

all do-able.

i dont wanna hatch shrimps, i will try them in my pellet and mince beef heart mix. 50/50% - a breeder overseas recommended that ratio and said that it works well for him.

if im wrong, then will hatch shrimps.

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reason i ask before i actually start is that so i know the answers as much as i can when is start, no awkewardness.

:D

im excited, i really wanna see what comes out of the white butterfly x albino or snowwhite x albino.

i am told that snow leopards will produce rouglhy 50% snow leopards, and the other 50% will be a mix of snow whites and normal leopards.

im going for the really funny strains. snow leopard is already a second gen or third gen crossing. so breeding from them should produce reliable types of strain - not randoms hopefully.

but the other, not sure.

i mean, white butterfly x albino. Will i get albinos? or is it toooo recessive? will i have to wait for F2 cross?

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From what I understand discus will choose their own pairings but I may be wrong.

If I was you I would feed the best I could to the young discus as there is nothing worse imo than discus that are not round or are stunted with huge eyes.

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agreed.

i would certainly feed only the best.

discus do choose their pairings, but the combinations i have stated have been paired already, twice now.

funny though, 2 males fertilised the eggs, then mother ate them soon after like it did previos spawn

not sure if thats normal in a comm tank.

the males duel and the winner guards eggs, but they both fertilised it.

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I hope everything goes well for you and I applaud you doing as much research as you can but there is no point asking a question if you keep ignoring the answer.

You have to listen to what people here and "oversea’s" are saying.

BBS is the best food and it should be fed often, up to 6 times a day but at a bare minimum of 3.

Young fish need 100% water changes at least daily and maybe up to 2 or 3 times daily. Every day for at least 4 months for best results.

No dry food is as good because even if it is as nutritionally as good it doesn’t move and discus are hunters. Young fish will stuff themselves on bbs because they cant help themselves when something jumps past their nose.

If you cant feed them they wont grow as quickly and may be permanently stunted.

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fair enough

bbs sounds like a good choice, i can feed bbs in the evenings when its not my day off, but during the day, can i supplement with pellets OR alternatively, can i put a giant clump of bbs in there in the mornings, and leave it in the tank, how long will bbs survive in the freshwater when placed?

if you put a giant clump, its like a buffet for a few hours.

????

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3 feeds a day.

CAN i supplement some pellets as well as bbs, so say

auto feeder feeds 2 to 3 times during the day, i feed once in morning bbs, twice bbs at night before lights out?

water change i can do through otu the day with the changer, i can programme the tank to turn over what i want to to maintain little to no nitrate.

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since you work 9-5 and a water change system you can feed the fry before you go to work and when you get home with feeding times similar 8.30am, 5:30pm, 6.30pm, 7.30pm,8.30pm then lights out. and water changes during the day since its automatic you may be able to do 75% daily

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yeah, 75% or 100 is possible through out 24 hours period definately.

ok, so i could do that i guess - if the gap between 830 with no food to evening after i get back is ok.

i dont get back till 6ish.

CAN i supplement pellets while im at work? or might as well not?

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ok wait, im confused.

you get decap bring shrimp and brine shrimp eggs

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living/Pe ... 063458.htm

decap brine shrimp eggs

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living/Pe ... 269723.htm

brine shrimp eggs

ok, the decap eggs CANNOT hatch, they are dead.

the normal eggs are able to hatch?

is this correct? lol

will fry eat decap bb eggs?

yes my auto feeder can feed pretty much anything, and willd efinatley do the decap eggs.

will fry eat the decap egg? isnt that the same as pellets - probably more nutritious but if its not alive, wont you face the same problem of them not eating it?

im confused with the eggs and decap eggs lol

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