Will this DIY filter work?

[SamH]

Technically this is DIY so where do I put it? Here for now.

Just got a free 60x30 tank from Brennos and am going to make a stand for it from MDF. Came with a small HOB filter but I'd also like to make a refugium on top of it.

The plan is run a power head from the tank up through a pipe that curves over the edge of a fish bin or similar. That fish bin would be located on top of the light hood and filled with a heater, sponges, biological media and a section for fry or other fish. The concept is that water is pumped up from the tank, through the hood, into the bin, past all the equipment and back down via an overflow.

Front view of tank

Looking upwards from ground show pump and outlet

Showing refugium from above angle. Heater is grey pipe, sponge is next to it and bio media next to that. Blue area is for fish.

My main question is would this work? After that I should have some more questions.

Also, sorry about the shoddy SketchUp work, was rushing and program wasn't cooperating with me :oops:

Thanks

-Sam

[Brennos]

Shoddy???? I use paint, now that's shoddy. Is that Solidworks?

[SamH]

Shoddy???? I use paint, now that's shoddy. Is that Solidworks?

Also, sorry about the shoddy SketchUp work, was rushing and program wasn't cooperating with me :oops:

I use Google SketchUp, a free download from Google 8)

[Ira]

Conceptually, yeah, no reason it shouldn't work.

[Muzz]

I think that the concept would work.

But I would look at only doing it 1/2 to 3/4 across width of tank so you can feed and do maintenance without having to remove it.

[suphew]

No reason it wouldn't work, the idea is basically the same as used on a lot of the newer tanks with built in filters in their hoods.

If it was me would simplify it a little bit. If you put the heater into the fish area and use a spray bar you would gain a lot of space need 1 less divider and the extra air feed into the filter system (by the spray bar) would make your filter more efficient.

Also I'm not sure your over flow needs to be in a box. I'm not sure it would make much difference to keeping the fry in and there is no need to surface skim in a fresh water tank like there is with salt water.

[David R]

Unless you build the stand to support it well above the tank its going to make cleaning the 2' difficult (unless it can easily removed).

Other than that it will work, but the question I would ask is why? It seems like a lot of trouble to go to for a small tank, you could pick up a second similar sized tank pretty cheap if you browse trademe and just build a two level stand, rather than having a big plastic bin sitting on top of your tank.

There is nothing wrong with the concept though, I know someone who added two old recycling bins full of bioballs in a similar fashion above his 3000L+ tank for extra filtration.

[SamH]

Also I'm not sure your over flow needs to be in a box. I'm not sure it would make much difference to keeping the fry in and there is no need to surface skim in a fresh water tank like there is with salt water.

The fry wouldn't get sucked down the pipe? Or do I need to cover that pipe?

Thanks for all the replies guys Really helpful

So after I've made the stand and hood, I'll give this a crack. Still not sure exactly what to make it from? Have a few bits of glass lying around so might get a tank made from them to sit on top.

@ David R. The stand I'm going to make uses almost 0% waste from a 2400x600mm sheet of MDF, unfortunately that leaves on room underneath. I'm also not too keen on the idea of an overflow box or drilling my tank, so it needs to be pumped up and fall back down, hence the plastic bin. At this stage it's just an idea but extra filtration, room for fry and perhaps nitrate absorbing plants are the benefits I can think of by using this design. Just throwing around ideas at the moment though

[suphew]

The fry wouldn't get sucked down the pipe? Or do I need to cover that pipe?

You can get fine mesh stainless steel strainers that will stop fry going down.

[SamH]

I'm looking at some overflow designs, they may be a better and tidier option at this stage.

Does anyone know anything about doors on aquarium cabinets? I'm assuming if they fit together perfectly they won't open, yes?

[Ira]

I'm looking at some overflow designs, they may be a better and tidier option at this stage.

Does anyone know anything about doors on aquarium cabinets? I'm assuming if they fit together perfectly they won't open, yes?

They especially won't open if you install latches.

[SamH]

They especially won't open if you install latches.

:-? Was that a joke? Or are you advising me against using latches?

I was just thinking of cutting a 60x60cm sheet into two and putting it on the front, two hinges on either side. But then it would fit so well together they'd jam on the way out. Do I need to cut them on a certain angle?

[Ira]

I'm advising if you want to be sure they'll stay shut to put some kind of latch or similar on them.

Jeez people, sometimes I'm actually serious, not sarcastic, learn to tell the difference! :lol:

[Zev]

Jeez people, sometimes I'm actually serious, not sarcastic, learn to tell the difference! :lol:

Really?

That is a big ask

[SamH]

:oops: Sorry, it's difficult to perceive tone over the internet. [/sarcasm] tags come in handy sometimes :lol:

My question was not whether they'd stay shut but rather whether they'd open. Tight fitting doors have no room to move, how do I solve that?

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

:oops: Sorry, it's difficult to perceive tone over the internet. [/sarcasm] tags come in handy sometimes :lol:

My question was not whether they'd stay shut but rather whether they'd open. Tight fitting doors have no room to move, how do I solve that?

if you go to bunnings - get some 20$ hindges that close when they get to about 50% shut you will be fine - have used them in both of my stands - there are about 10 different "models" that close in different fashions - so just check they close the door in the correct place etc - they should have a set of each made up so you can see where the back of the door will sit etc..

[SamH]

if you go to bunnings - get some 20$ hindges that close when they get to about 50% shut you will be fine - have used them in both of my stands - there are about 10 different "models" that close in different fashions - so just check they close the door in the correct place etc - they should have a set of each made up so you can see where the back of the door will sit etc..

Excellent, will check them out next time I'm there.

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

placemakers have them as well but they cost double the price from bunnings from memory

[SamH]

I'll keep that in mind. We usually go to Mitre10 Mega or Bunnings, can't remember the last time we went to Mitre10 or Placemakers :-?

I was more concerned about the point where the two doors meet, if it's perfectly flush then that may cause problems, yes?

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

i used one sheet of wood that i cut into the correct shape then cut in half - the hindges are adjustable as well

[SamH]

Woah, that's awesome So the doors aren't perfectly flush, slight gap yeah?

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

Woah, that's awesome So the doors aren't perfectly flush, slight gap yeah?

they are now camera and flash dont make it look quite right - but they are deffinately straight

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

with the doors you will need to get a drill bit that does a nice tidy hole - or take them to a cabinet maker to drill them for you - from memory the drill bit is about $20 or so from bunnings too - can take a photo of that tomorrow if required cause it makes it a nice and clean finish

[SamH]

I have a set of drill bits as well as a drill. I know how to do the basics, made on all right desk the other week 8)

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

I have a set of drill bits as well as a drill. I know how to do the basics, made on all right desk the other week 8)

that might not have come out like it was meant too - its not a normal drill for doing the door side the right hand side of the hindge above is for the door - theres a 35mm hole about 12mm deep that the hindge sits in - they call them hindge cutters from memory