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I'm going to build a double decker enclosure


chilli

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The plan is to build one unit to hold two water dragons and two beardies

was thinking beardies at the top(heat rises)and waters under neath

6ft long,5ft high(bottem ft to raised off ground)and 2ft wide

Still dont no how thick the wood should be and how to go about building it

i have to get in the tanks to clean and catch the dragons so was thinking about doors on side and just a glass in front

(did think off slidding glass on front but dragons might learn to nudge open the door)

Has anyone build something similar or got any advise?

I want as little mistakes as posible :lol:

ps Has to be able to hold water on bottom incase i spill some from water dragons pool

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I have just finished one very similar that is 1600x600x1200 high and with glass sliding doors. I built it from 12mm ply screwed from the inside into 50x50mm cut into an L shape and around all the external corners. Well painted to seal the fumes from the ureaformaldehyde used in making the ply (it gives off formaldehyde when heated) The recess in the beading was 15mm so I added 15mm polystyrene to top and bottom. 250X250 S/S mesh vents at each end. A 4ft reptile flouro in each as well as a 60 watt ceramic heater and 100watt incandescent light bulb.

They work well. The only thing I think that would be better would be more support under the middle floor but it was tricky because of the 4 ft flouro. The bottom one is supported by the polystyrene.

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think ive sent you this pic a while back chilli..anyway

IMG_0109.jpg

ply wood, 3x2 timber frame, floors i think was called hardi something? meant for tiles..

doors recycled perspex, bottom 3 levels have abit of 4x2 across the front - just gives the beardies abit more privacy so they dont feel theyre on a ledge (if that makes sence).

vents and heat lamps from bunnings, 4 foot fluro from my old fish tank setup.

its on wheels to - bunnings

no plan i just made it up as i went along, still pretty happy with it..serves it purpose and 4 tanks in 1 saves alot of room.

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Similar to mine only I used glass sliding doors so they don't scratch so much and 90 x 30 frame around the front and rebated to take the plastic slides for the doors. I got one of those automatic flouro light controllers that produce dawn and dusk from that site that shall remain a nonny mouse. I put the tubes in the top front so they can't be seen. Be aware that they are sold as being able to take tubes UP TO 40 watts but are only good for tubes OF 40 watts or they will kill the tubes.

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That idea sounds pretty good. The only thing with mine was that the middle shelf (floor of top one) was only supprted by 20x20 battons back and ends so I was a bit worried how much weight it would carry. I would like to have added more supprt to the middle with a beam from front to back but couldn't because of the 4 ft flouro. Will try and wake up my technologically crippled mind and post a pic.

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(did think off slidding glass on front but dragons might learn to nudge open the door)

You can buy catches that stop sliding doors from being opened - OR - just drill a hole in the slid track and put a stopper in it to stop the doors from opening.

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don't worry chilli the dragons won't open your sliding doors

alan built one recently perhaps he may notice this and give you some ideas

Just thought of another idea - router out a groove in the sides for the sliding doors to fit right into, then the dragons would not be able to get any purchase on the door to slide it.

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hmm just checked and the frame i used is 70x35mm (used in ceilings i think)

good ideas aquatopia.

Bds do try walk up and down trying to get out (occasionally) but theyre not that onto it to slide the doors, would be bad luck if they did. I often leave the doors open and go around other setups feeding out and bds dont try jump. Have forgotten to close the doors before :oops: came back a couple of hours later and bd didnt seem to have noticed :D

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They are the thumb grips on the glass sliding doors. Would you believe it costs as much to get the edges polished as it does to buy the glass. The wee ground out thumb grips that you see on the imported ones cost $70 for each one but the little shiny thingies (drill a hole and put in a plastic bit that looks like chrome) cost $8 each.

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They are the thumb grips on the glass sliding doors. Would you believe it costs as much to get the edges polished as it does to buy the glass. The wee ground out thumb grips that you see on the imported ones cost $70 for each one but the little shiny thingies (drill a hole and put in a plastic bit that looks like chrome) cost $8 each.

LOL - i should have looked at the bottom enclosure for reference - i just saw the top ones and they looked like they were attached to the ventilation grills.

Still a bit sleepy obviously, haha.

Since you do a lot of glasswork is it worth looking for a cheap belt sander on TM or someplace ?

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I have a belt sander. I take the sharp edges off with an old sharpening stone. Polishing is done wet with an emery wheel I think.

Ah right - i didnt realise polishing was different to taking off rough edges. Though would a fine sander not do the same or would the sand paper not hack it ? I dont really understand the difference I guess.

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They use sanders when doing a lot. The result is similar.

Yeh thats what I thought- as i recall seeing the belt sander when the old owner of critter kingdom on blenheim road gave me a tour of his workshop and fishroom out the back. i would have loved the Harlequin Tuskfish he had in the tank out there.

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