Ira Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Anyone got any sources locally for bits and pieces to build MH lights? Most of the premade units won't fit in my tank's hood but if I build it myself I should be able to fit it. Looks like about $700ish for the ballasts, lights and sockets from reefonline.co.au. I'm aiming for two 150 watt DE, btw. I'll still need reflectors and I vaguely remember they need something to block UV? I want MH, but may settle for T5s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetskisteve Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Lampspecs in Glenfield AK or try 0800 lampbrokers not sure if they sell sep bits but i got my gear from them, tell me what size T5's you need & I'll price them 4 u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 I am using T5s and suggest they will be fine and will resolve the problem of heat you may find with the halides (especially if you are usings a hood and not an open top). T5s need to be replaced every 6-9 months. If you want to do DIY lampbrookers do some excellent 'pre made' halides, with BLV bulbs, all certified and ready to go. They guy is really friendly and the units are top notch. If you want to go MEGA diy, use hydroponic ballasts and single ended bulbs, should be able to do these for less than $300ea including the bulb. I am going to use ballasts and bulbs from Radium, 400s. The pre made units are VERY expenive, but since you won't be able to see them, I am not bothered. There is so little difference between good ballasts and bad ballasts anyway, hard to justify the extra costs. Pies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted July 4, 2004 Report Share Posted July 4, 2004 Stay away from DIY doubble ended, the UV shielding required is not work the trouble, unless your good at sheet metal fabrication. Also, MH put out a LOT of heat, so be carefull if you are trying to install them in a confined space, they could easily set wood alight. They usually need plenty of fan forced ventilation in order not to turn your tank into a hot tub! Single ended DIY can be done for about $300 for a single 400Watt unit. I don't think it gets much cheaper for lower wattage (obviously cheaper to run though). Layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted July 4, 2004 Report Share Posted July 4, 2004 Layton what do you mean about UV and metalwork? All you need is some coverglass and the reflector. Not much difference between the double and single other than no need for UV shield on the single (cause it comes with on, where as the double ended in 'nekid'). I was looking and double ended 'diy' but single ended is a LOT cheaper. In fact 400 watters are about the cheapest lighting out there. Layton is correct about the heat, the are hot hot hot, easily catch wood on fire, no problems at all I wouldn't think. Ventilation is the key. The lamp brokers are also worth a look, quality units all wired and ready to go, the do both SE & DE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted July 4, 2004 Report Share Posted July 4, 2004 well, you have to encase the bulb in a reflector with glass panel so UV can't escape, that requires a metal case, if DIY that means bending sheet metal. Layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef Posted July 4, 2004 Report Share Posted July 4, 2004 IRA, T5 is the way to go for you. most coral will be fine under t5, even acropora will do well. Metal halide for your hood is not really a goer if you are going to keep it under your existing hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted July 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2004 Hmm, problem is the 4X4' T5 unit won't fit in my hood. The hob skimmer is in the way and if that wasn't there it would cover the entire top of the tank making it necessary from the looks of it to remove the hood and the lighting just to feed the tank or do anything else in it. Definitely a point in favor of MHs. Maybe I can tear the guts out of the T5 unit and mount them in the hood so that they do fit. But, if I'm going to do that maybe I might as well just use the 4X4' NO flouros I've got mounted in the hood of another tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted July 4, 2004 Report Share Posted July 4, 2004 I don't think you will see much difference between the T5s and NO fluros. Why not use the NO fluros for now, and then revisit lighting when you know exactly what it is your going to do? Save money now to better select lighting later. A lot of corals (mushrooms, leathers etc) should be OK under NOs. It will cut out SPS corals and anemones, but you will be able to have some LPS which typically prefur less light anyway. Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted July 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2004 Hmm, looks like actually I could probably get 175 watt SE ballasts for about $130, lamp holders for $30 each. So, yeah, $160 not including the bulb. I wouldn't think heat would be too bad, there are heaps of retrofit kits designed for exactly the same thing. I asked about them at redwoods...$1700 for one that bad been used in the shop. I suppose a single 175 would end up with just the center of the tank being lit, but would cut any heat concerns in half. But, you think it'd be more light than I'd need, Pies? I've had a closer look at how much space I have and if I transferred the 4' T8s into the hood they'd be practically touching, what effect would that have on lighting efficiency? Just seems that still the MHs might be the easiest, most effective, and not too expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted July 5, 2004 Report Share Posted July 5, 2004 hey Ira, you could always visit Pies and see first hand how hot MH bulbs get Layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetskisteve Posted July 5, 2004 Report Share Posted July 5, 2004 Pretty sure you would have trouble getting 175w bulbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
count_sexy_tart Posted July 5, 2004 Report Share Posted July 5, 2004 hey ira go down montgomery cres and go to the electrical shop on right next to switched on gardener and speak with them as they have lots of goodies in there and good advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 I don't think you will see much difference between the T5s and NO fluros. There is a huge differance between t5 & normal flouros. A 4FT t5 is 54w, normal flouro is 36W. With t5 you can keep every coral including acropora. IRA if you put a metal halide in your hood you could crack the cover glass. also metal halides have to be 300mm above the water. this tank is using t5s only, great hard coral tank http://www.korallenriff.de/Mohr/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 wanna translate that site for us reef? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 I'd go with the T5s, except for the slight packaging problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 I've never caught why people say MHs have to be so far from the water? I've seen distances from 3inches to 2 feet. There are a lot of retrofit kits I've seen pictures of that don't put them more than 3-4" from the water surface which is about what they'd end up being in mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Single ended bulbs don't use cover glass. So 1 spot of water on them when they are running BANG! Thats why you don't want em too close. Doubble ended have cover glass, so you can run them closer to the water surface (about 6 inches on mine for example). The light spread is effected of course, as does the reflector design impact the height some people run them at, coral needs etc. Pies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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