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Leaking tank


kd123

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I just brought a second hand tank home to find that it leaks in one of the bottom corners. Should i get it resealed professionally or is it simple enough to seal it myself? If I am able to do it myself do I need to take the old sealer out before resealing? It is about 100lts

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Its really easy to remake, it just takes time

So, yes if you are to get someone to do it, it will be dearer than buying a new one. If you would like to "have a go"then feel free to ask and I (and others Im sure) will try to help.

You dont need much in the way of tools, a blade (the snap off type are probably the best) a rasor blade (the stiff back ones from hobby shops or glass merchants) and a glue gun

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I just read the info properly and realised you are in Christchurch. What area are you in? If you are not too far away I can show you what to do. PM me if yore interested. It is always handy in this hobby to know how to build fish tanks. Mrs Google is not realy God's Mother in Law and you don't need to grind the edges,just take the sharp edges off for safety.

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once i have taken out the new silicone replacement seal, do i begin with the filler seal around the bottom or do i take the front or back side off first....does it matter?

I gather i may need corner clamps to hold the sides together when I am rebuilding it? Do I rebuild it by putting front and side and the back and other side together and then connecting them all together and then placing the bottom on last?

Alan I may take you up on your offer of advice. Just trying to see what time I am going to have over the coming weeks. I am in spreydon. But i do need to upgrade one of my tanks very soon.

Cheers

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I lived in Spreydon for many years. It doesn't matter how you pull it apart. I use one sided razor blades because they are thinner than a Stanley knife. Start where the knife will most easily fit between the joints. I don't use clamps, I use pvc insulation tape and Selleys RTV for aquariums (because it is the cheapest acid cure at Bunnings). Cut all the old RTV off the glass when dis assembled and wipe the joints with meths before re doing. It is easiest if you lay the glass out on a flat surface like an exploded drawing, put glue on all the joints then put together again. Once you have done one you will want to make the rest yourself, and wonder why you didn't in the past.

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Well it has broken down ok. Much easier than I was expecting. Kinda scary having a tank full of water and then half an hour later just 5 flat seperate pieces. I will clean it up today.

Question.... When reassembling the tank, is there a right way to go about it? I know what I would do if I were building something out of wood but something tells me that I would do this differently. I am assuming that it needs to be done with no interruptions and quite quickly....

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no interuptions.... yes

quickly, within reason. Dont hurry as the silicone will be going off slowly but you also dont want to muck arround

Most tanks are built from the base up. bback goes on base, both sides next then the front.

Put a strip of masking tape around the ends to holh it all together.

Make sure that you feel the base on the outsides to make sure that the sides are lining up (dont just rely on looking as the silicone will be a bit deciving)

Silicon takes 1 day per mm of thicknes to cure so if you put the tank together today, dont think about filling it for a week. This also allows the fumes to come out.

After 24 hours, look through the glass at your joins for air bubbles and see if the air bubbles all join up which will allow a possible leak, these may need touching up.

Dont put the bits together then pull apart and back together as this will create air bubbles and therefore leaks

Make sure that you clean the glass as much as possible before reconstructing as cleaning now is easier than later

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Everyone has their own way to make tanks. I agree with Barrie. After cleaning I lay the bits out like an exploded drawing on a flat surface and then put all the glue on. Go right around the top edge of the base and on the edge of the front and back (where the pieces will come together). Then as Barrie said, back, end, end and front. You can use masking tape but sometimes it is hard to clean off after a weak so I prefer PVC insulation tape. After you have made a few hundred you will develop your own preferences. Squeeze the joints tight to exclude air bubbles as you tape,then run a fillet round all the inside angles and smooth off. The temptation is to use a lot of glue on the first one. You don't need much and it looks better as well.

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Is it normal for the bottom edge of one of the sides to be very rough? All the other edges are relatively smooth. It is pretty near impossible to remove all the little bits of silicone. I wonder if this is the side which had the leaks. Do I need to do anything about this? Would it be worth getting another piece cut to replace this side?

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