jayci Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 I think by strip cleaning they mean take all the ornaments and gravle out? nd then clean it thourgoly? That is my meaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Ok, that shouldn't be hard with only 1cm of gravel and a couple of pieces of driftwood! Should I use boiling water to sterilise them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OscarBoy Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 if it was me i would..... but wouldnt you want a constant flow so you wouldnt have the germs staying round in the water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmack Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 do you turn the uv filter off when using adtape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplecatfish Posted July 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 I would as UV can make some meds break down faster. I'm not certain that's its essential but I'd err on the side of caution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new zealand discus man Posted July 31, 2008 Report Share Posted July 31, 2008 Hi I have some here under vet script..For use with fish..I interested e mail me direct and ill advise the price for your quantity requested...Pure adtape not diluted.....Phill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 OK, firstly, good thread. Secondly, have ordered some droncit from the local vet. Can someone please give me the specific doses (per Letre etc) and could you also let me know how often and if a water change is need (and if so when). Could you also dose a planted tank or does it kill everything? Do you need to turn the UV light off? Can u disolve it in water then soak food in it or do you have to dose the tank? Would like any advice but please be specific as I don't want to guess when I'm dosing my baby discus. Cheers in advance. Johnny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmack Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 I have used droncit before i turned the UV sterilizer off just to be careful it didn't harm any of the plants or filter media at all nor the fish, I did a water change after 48 hours and then re-dosed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd123 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 You may find some interesting discussion on this on www.discusforums.com I lost most of my cardinals and apistogramma when i dosed my community tank with doncit/prazi.... The tabs dissolve reasonably quickly in a small amount of aquarium water. Be aware that you will have a coating of white powder (caking agent). It coats everything but will disappear over time with water changes and gravel vacs. There are quite a few different ideas and dosing procedures on these sites and i would hesitate to offer any advice on which one to follow. I have used prazi twice now with completely different happenings. The first time i killed my larger discus. The second time the big discus were fine and i lost most of my small fish.... Good luck and I really wish a thread could be written which actually had all the accurate dose rates, a clear understanding of what drugs/treatments are used for what conditions and water change times.... Oh well i can keep hoping... Best of luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 thanks kd123 Has anyone else lost discus with this stuff? Should I stear clear of it? It's just other sites say Droncit (not Drontal) is completely safe. Is that rue? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd123 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 The discus that died was my fault as i left the prazi in the tank for too long i think and I may have had the wrong dose. All of the discus were fine and well after the second lot. I have also used Levamisole (Aviverm) with good results.... Droncit is the right one (or its liquid form Adtape) I am following the discus forum recomendation of dosing the tank every 6 months.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmack Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 make sure it is adtape if in liquid form and not mixed with any other worming products Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmsmith Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 I've got a tank of guppies that I think may have gill fluke (out of over 100, maybe 5 will flash a day, so maybe not). I've tried dewormers, and would like to try Droncit. How much would I put in a 100l tank? If they don't have gill fluke, will it harm them? I'm guessing it will just get rid of any nasties. Also, what method do you use to add the Droncit to the tank? I crush the tablet and dissolve it in warm water, then add it to the tank. Any other ways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Adtape: the brand name for liquid prazi. It's concentration is 37.5g/L. Use 26ml per 100L this gives 9.75mg/L. Praziquantel: The textbook dose range is 2 to 10mg/L. The treatment cycle depends on the species of parasite. Some will need a dose every three days, others will need a dose up to 3 weeks apart. 2 or 3 doses are usually all that is needed. Dose for 4 hours (watch the fish to make sure they're ok) then do a 25% water change and use carbon to remove the remainder of the medication. Sorry for dragging up an old thread, but it is a useful one... I've just got some Adtape liquid from the vet, their instruction was to dose at 5ml per 100 litres, which seems considerably lower than the above recommendation. I'm using it to treat my pair of uaru who have white fluffy kinda poo. Yesterday I dosed at the vets recommended 5ml/100L, and 24 hours later I did a 40% water change and repeated the dose. Should I increase the dosage to 26ml/100L? and how often and how far apart should I dose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discusguru Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 I would use metro instead of liquid prazi for your situation. Unless you want to worm your fish. I use 25-30mls per 100ltrs for my discus. Leave for 3 days and do a waterchange. Redose after wc and repeat 1 more time. Total 3 doses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 So I should be using metro to treat the fluffy white poos not prazi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplecatfish Posted July 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 I wouldn't be trying to treat fluffy white poos with prazi. So I'd go with Discusguru's suggestion. But he only way to be sure would be to collect the poos and get a lab to microscopically examine them for parasites and bacteria. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Sorry for dragging up an old thread, but it is a useful one... I've just got some Adtape liquid from the vet, their instruction was to dose at 5ml per 100 litres, which seems considerably lower than the above recommendation. I'm using it to treat my pair of uaru who have white fluffy kinda poo. Yesterday I dosed at the vets recommended 5ml/100L, and 24 hours later I did a 40% water change and repeated the dose. Should I increase the dosage to 26ml/100L? and how often and how far apart should I dose? That's similar to the dosage I used on my guppy tank. A Betta breeder gave me some liquid Prazi and said about 5ml for 80L which is what I used. 24 hours, no light... large water change and gravel vacuum. And I repeated again a few days later. No fish losses due to treatment.. This was post losing a guppy to worms so the treatment was a precaution but i haven't had any problems with them since. I must say, I have Kuhli in the same tank and they didn't like it one bit.. they came out and lay motionless for 20 minutes before scuttling away again.. but have also been fine. In my case I wouldn't want to increase the dosage . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discusguru Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 So I should be using metro to treat the fluffy white poos not prazi? Yes! metro is the med to treat white fluffy poo. Prazi is for treating flukes worms and tapeworms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted July 18, 2009 Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 Yes! metro is the med to treat white fluffy poo. Prazi is for treating flukes worms and tapeworms. So I should be using metro, I've got tablets from the vet before, 400mg for 40L water right? How frequently would you dose and how big a water change do you do in between doses? I've got a pair of large uaru in a 300L tank. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted July 18, 2009 Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 It is 1tab per 40L of water dosed daily with large water changes.. It will kill your filter so you will have to recycle your tank. If your fish are eating then it can be mixed with food to do the same thing, I think it is 4gms (10 tabs) metro per 500gms food apparently you mix the food/metro together with agar or gelatine and then feed the fish on it.. With a tank of your size you will be best to lower the water level as low as possible before treating to save on drugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new zealand discus man Posted July 18, 2009 Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 What the white is ..Heximita..Spelling might not be correct but its a protozon in the gut and often just called whole inthe head.. Once seen white dropping tells in the advance stage and in imported discus was usually to late.. In discus also was reported that when the bright red ones that are colour feed stand little chance of survial as weaked by hormone I lost a lot like that..Main reason i stopped importing discus because of hex and fish could not live long.. All the bright red i imported now have lost most and are back to normal colours..No hex or tape worms Im treating 2 very large oscars and in 300 L i daily add 6 x 400mg tabs and dont change the water as life if reported as short.. Starting to look for food and on day 5 ..Hex goes all the way up track to mouth so the poor fish cant swallow food... Once getting to feed i disvlove tabs and soak into pellets..Much better if fish is still feeding.. But remember all these treatments are hit and miss..No proven info even from Bayer Germany as all done for trout and salmon.. Good luck..Phill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted July 19, 2009 Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 They're still eating, love the frozen biosupplies green tucker. I'll try letting some defrost a little, sprinkle some crushed metro over it and re-freeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted July 19, 2009 Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 Sounds like a good idea, I think (from memory) it is only active in water for 8 hours so I would mix it and freeze and feed it out straight away.. I am unsure how long it would stay active when frozen or if it affects it at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new zealand discus man Posted July 19, 2009 Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 Freezing will destroy it..Asked makers a long time back..Soak in to pellets if the only way or just dose tank daily for 8 days non stop...Phill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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