paul_r Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Hey guys im not sure if you can remember my draft plans but here is what i have done so far on my killi cupboard. Dimensions are 1200 wide and 1256 high draft plan: Wood has arrived and being put to place, i have no workshop, shed etc, the rumbus room is as good a place as any. And here is what the basic shell looks like This is what will be heating everything still need to do some more work on the bracing, give it some waterproof paint, insulate it with polystyrene, add "doors" on the front, put in thermostat & lightbulbs for heating and intall a fan to circulate heat - add tanks and air pump(s), air lineing and sponge filters and it will be all up and running. Will be able to fit 4x 450x250x250 tanks on bottom layer used for fry grow out, top shelf will be able to fit 5 300x200x200 tanks and will have room for a brine shrimp hatchery and for storing eggs and raising fry. Let me know what you all think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidb Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 looking good so far. keep us updated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMAZONIAN Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Hi All I would like to suggest that you wire a 230 volt computer fan of series with one of the light bulbs. The effect will be that when the lights are on and heat is being generated in the cupboard it will be blown around the cabinet to distribute it a lot better which will in effect keep the temperature within the cabinet even and constant. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_r Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 funny you should say that, it is exactly what i will be doing. As someone mentioned earlier computer fans may be a bit noisy. I may just buy a cheap desktop fan and play round with the wireing so it runs when the lightbulb is on. Has turned out to be reasonably cheap to build. Has cost me around $100.00 for all the wood cut to size and the bits and pieces to make the light bulb setup as well as all the wireing,screws, glue etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ianab Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Wire the fans, whatever you end up using, so they are on all the time. Put the light bulbs or heaters on the thermostat. That will give you a more even temp around the cabinet. Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_r Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Thanks very much for all the advice, it is very much appreciated. If it wasnt for the forum and everyone involved id probably have no idea where to start/what to do etc and just be in one big mess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEKA Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 You may need to put some support under the shelves as the MDF board may sag a bit with the weight after a while. Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMAZONIAN Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Hi All Paul_r; Re the MDF you are using for the cabinet. I strongly suggest that you give it about 5 or 6 coats of "POLYURETHANE", with the first 2 coats thinned to the consistency of water so as it soaks into the wood. As MDF is just like "Weetbix"; it attracts water extremely quickly and just collapses. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_r Posted August 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Thanks for the advice, what does the "POLYURETHANE" do? Ive had a quick look around the net and it seems to me as though it protects the wood from water damage..... Please correct me if i am wrong. Is it okay to paint over the top of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilknieval69 Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Yea polyurethane is just a sealant, like water proof paint i guess but you can water it down to a very runny solution. Looking good BTW, will be sweet once its all up and running!! you'll be pumping out the babys :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_r Posted August 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Yea it should be fully up and running in 3 weeks (hopefully). Am just sorting out the bracing right now. Me knowing almost nothing about wood, just looking at the cupboard and feeling the MDF made me realise bracing is going to be almost the most important part of the cupboard. Because of the size there is going to be a massive sag and eventual collapse if i just added tanks and water right now. But im going to try and do everything right first time so i have no hassles in the future. Im not sure if youve seen another post of mine with my temporary killi tanks, but jees they are small and covered in tea towels for the lids etc. Not very attractive looking but do the job, have got approx 15 eggs from my australe golds yesterday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilknieval69 Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Yep read your other post, going great! Bracing will be the main part yea. Id put some 2 x 2 bracing everywhere, should be enough, but may need some bigger ones from side to side underneath the centre of each shelf or something? keep us updated with heaps more pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_r Posted August 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 here is a basic draft of what i think the brace should look like, will fit inside the bottom shelf to support the bottom of second level. Not sure what to make it out of - 2x2 maybe? .....Also drawing doesnt indicate where joins in wood etc will go, just done a quick sketch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 You'd have been far better off with something like 3/4" plywood. Significantly stronger, significantly more water resistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaNut Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Hi Paul, Id say you had better write an article for the NZKA newsletter at what ever stage its at on the 25th of August and email it to me. Its good to see your passion for killies has taken hold. WELL DONE. I'll come and visit if I may when its completed. Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMAZONIAN Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Hi All You'd have been far better off with something like 3/4" plywood. Significantly stronger, significantly more water resistant. I'm with you on this Ira, but: The only problem with the "PLY" is the cost, which when you get to the thicker sizes the price far exceeds "MDF" and coatings of Polyurethane. The polyurethane coating seals it like "FIBREGLASS" and also gives it a lot more strength by "BONDING" the fibres that make up the sheet together a lot better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted August 2, 2007 Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 I was going to say I would appreciate a copy for the Aquarium World but the NZKA newsletter would be far more appropriate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_r Posted August 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 Sorry guys i just figured out that i hadnt noted that.... MDF for all of the cupboard is 18mm thick Except the back which is 4.75mm And the cupboards dimensions are 1200wx1256hx600d Each shelf has an area of 1200lx600hx600d - will be slightly less as i will be useing 20mm polystyrene as insulation Alan came around today to check out my progress so far. Ive lost count of the ammount of times that he has helped me out and today he added to the total again. I know very little about woodwork (a total overstatement ), Alan pointed me in the right direction as to what would be needed to brace the cupboard - my idea would have worked, but would have been total overkill and unnessecary waste of space, time money etc. Basically 2 bits of wood will be enough to stabilise the middle shelf. Since i have no Jigsaw (or other tool used for cutting) i will see if placemakers or bunnings can cut the hole in middle shelf to allow the heat to dispurse between levels. Hopefully they will do it for free if i buy a couple sheets of polystyrene for the insulation. Was thinking of chopping up some of the poly boxes that new world etc have - which i could get for free, however will be quite messy. So i have decided on useing 20mm sheets of polystyrene. The sheets are fairly expensive however i will only need to cut to size and glue on. As for an article, i am definatly writing something for the NZKA (will see where it goes from there) join up now if you havnt already (still cant believe i am writing something and its not for school or work, never thought that would happen......runs off to check for any symptoms other than punishment for the night before ). Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 Paul, why 20 mm poly? I use 10mm and buy stock sheets of it (2400 x 1200) for $5 I would expect that 20mm would be double that at the most. I have wrapt my tanks in it except for the front as all my tanks are heated useing heaters If you come up to Auckland at any time in the near future, I could pick some up for you when Im passing. Expol in Chruch St Onehunga Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_r Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 Well the idea of 20mm poly was because i was orioginally going to use poly boxes from new world and they were all 20mm. I will check the price of 10mm tommorrow. I went to mitre 10 a couple days ago to price some 20mm sheets - 600x1800 i think and they were around $20 a sheet, would have worked out very expensive at that rate But i will look around for 10mm, if its as cheap as you say it is then awesome i will get everything together in the next day or 2. Was planning on giving cupboard a couple of coats of polyurethane this weekend, but was a bit slack will definatly get on to it tommorrow night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 5, 2007 Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 payless plastics and the like, generaly have poly cheaper than hardwhare stores, worth trying :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_r Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 I checked everywhere in whakatane and only bunnings stocked polystyrene, but the thinnest was 20mm and it was 17.50 a 2400x1200x20 sheet. As desperate as i was i bought two sheets and the guys even cut it up into 1200x600 sheets. Could only just fit into the starlet with the back seats down. Started making the cuts and putting everything together. Used the floor and a sharp knife to cut the poly, made a lot of mess and the cut edges were untidy, but i will try make it so that the cut edges are hidden. This is where everything is being built...flat mates dont seem to mind This is basically what the top part is going to look like (lying on its roof) will get rid of the raggity looking edge This is the base of the cupboard with the 4x2 braceing, looking from the front The base looking from the rear - note the brace is moved foreward 150mm, this is to allow for the hole in the level to allow heat to go between levels (pic 2) Also thought id show where my eggs are being stored - in the hot water cupboard, conveniently stays at around 23 degrees The left and middle have approx 20 australe gold eggs, some will be hatching in the next couple days, the ones on the right are from the albinos, which just started laying today Let me know what you think Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Paul I told you that the 4x2 should be on edge for maximum strength. :evil: Have you permanentised it??. Breadknife or hacksaw blade, cuts it well or a craft knife onto a hard cutting surface. I can just imagine what the flat looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_r Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 No it isnt permanent, however i moved the front piece of 4x2 inwards 30mm to allow for doors on the front and 150 from the back to allow for the heat to dispurse between levels. If the rear piece was moved right to the back then it would almost totally restrict airflow, as the pencilled mark on one of the above pics is 150x700, which is going to be cut out today. I was thinking of you Alan at the time i put it together, was wondering what your response would be......... But the result, although not being as strong as it could be, is still very solid and can take all my weight without even moving at all. And allows me to tidily (not sure if that is a word) put doors on the front and still be able to effectivly transfer heat between levels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 The distance from the front or back is neither here nor there, without being stupid. Just that you may as well almost, used 2x2 for the strong back. As for supporting you? You aren't a very big lad now are you. Wish I was your size or somewhere near it. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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