henward
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Posts posted by henward
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the silica sand will probbaly stop your plants from growing well.
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Get rid of the parrots and get a real fish like some Oscars or something.
Haha, I like the parrots, also the wife loves them.
but, Oscars cant cut it in the tank. the aro tries to kill them - not just a nip here and there to tell them to move away
but the aro will actually swim under a rock and drift wood to bite them its bizzare. also the jag so had to get rid of my 3 large Oscars and 1 jag.
small fish it doesn't bother, parrots it doesn't bother, silver dollars are ok.
silver shark... marginal, we will see in a months time.
bottom dwellers are definitely safe
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God...that parrots face.
You know you love it
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Is that the one I tagged you in on facebook Henward?
no, this was from HFF, already got it before that one.
i didnt get that one cos i already got this one.
i am thining 3 dats total, has to be small, IF i do get it, may get an american tiger and a wide bar indo OR an odd ball patterned one.
see how it goes.
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how could you get him out
if you mean catching him to get him out. well, at this size, impossible, there is no catching him, he is there to stay!
when bigger, its easy - but at this size, there is no catching him and i dont intend on doing so.
the arowana is ignoring a similar sized texas, tinfoil and red severeum
i suspect that when these grow with brutus, he will get used to them as they grow.
but the introduction of big fish, is trouble.
he sees them straight away and attacks them.
he leaves all bottom dwellers alone
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currently fed twice a day, some days 3 times.
like yesterday:D ate 3 times lol
it will grow rapidly, as soon as it can, it will be transitioned onto massivore pellets - super food!
I am also developing its ability to consume vast quantities of food by feeding multiples times during the day and keeping it always full.
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He is very small, 1 week intro already, fully eating Sinking carnivore
i will pump him as i do, i should get him to a good size in a few months!
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Go EBAY
EBAY has LED strips at $20 per meter shipped to your door!
i would recommend get everythign on EBAY. NZ just has them too costly.
you get kits too, and they seem pretty simple actually.
If you want them to look 'cool' - then get stealth or something similar.
they do loo amazing.
but really, you can achieve the same thing through ebay stuff.
i used carpet ends joiners and glued the stirps under that.
its so low prifile you cant even see it when you are looking at the tank.
LEDs are so cheap to buy - and the stuff you get are all the same so someone just assembles it for you in a fancy package and sells it for a few thousands % markup
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The existing water in the tank should not have amonia if your filter is cycled.
I put the dosage into the drum for wc only - this will prep the water for wc.
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Just the picture. But back does have less. Just enough so you can have a perception of depth.
Having clarity issues but I'll sort that out later.
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I have installed the Lights today.
2x Low light LED Strips (2.4m)
2x Super Bright LED Strips (2.4)
2x double 4ft T8 fittings
1x single 4ft T8 Fitting (Old tanning arcadia bulb)
The lights are controlled by timers and manual overrides.
1) Dusk/ Dawn Lighting - SO can view nocturnal fish. ON: (6am to 10am / 7pm to midnight)
2x Low light LED Strips (2.4m)
2) Daylight - Daylight, when I am not home, will just be enough to simulate 'daylight' for the fish natural light cycles. This is just 1 bulb.
1x single 4ft T8 Fitting (Old tanning arcadia bulb) - reddish tinge, not my preferred viewing light, but it will do for a daylight simulation
ON: 7am to 7pm
3) Dusk/Dawn lights and Daylight combined - some over lap in the morning, and evening
http://s136.photobucket.com/user/henwar ... sort=6&o=2
4) 'VIWEING MODE #1' - Manual ON switch - All of the above plus the '2x Super Bright LED Strips (2.4m)'
5) 'VIEWING MODE #2' - Manual ON Switch
Super bright viewing mode, All of the lights on.
VIDEO: of the lights in stages one at a time
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cool.
get it running! wanna see aro in it!
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well, I put a little bit of salt in every water change. But maybe this one has better trace than normal salt.
just wondering really. see wha tpeople think .
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Hi All,
Opinions please, scientifically, makes sense to replenish trace and minerals. this can be quite cost effective actually.
any opinions? this sort of product exists with seachem etc, discus trace.
this is an arowana trace.
would love feedback, i know it isnt gonna turn my arowana red, its more for just good health, good measure.
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It doesn't sit quite straight, the Poret is 500mm wide and the tank is 484mm internally which helps hold it in place, but also puts a bit of a curve in it. I could probably trim it down a little given the vertical supports though.
its ok, as long as the sides are sealed, dont matter if its diagonal or something right?
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Yeah I'm wondering about the seal across the bottom and how much water will be able to get under there, I think I'll just have to push it down had and hope for the best!
yeah, try it out.
and play aorund with the configuration.
looks awesome though!
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Not mucking about, Poret foam arrived today!!
I think I under-estimated the space needed to get the big sheets in and out, I think six sheets will be too squashed and too awkward to remove for cleaning. I could probably add one more in the last compartment, but will give it a go as-is for now.
try squashing it first, i think it will work fine
y ou want no gaps on the side, overlap is good to make sure water has nowhere to go but through IMO.
just squash it, you only take it in and out every couple / few weeks (thats the goal anyways) so really, it doesnt matterif you have to spend 2 mins extra trying to wiggle them out.
look sawesome! looks effective!!
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Could be a worth while investment getting a 2-10K litre tank to catch the rainwater off your garage roof?
was looking into that.
the extra water for the tank will cost very little and return on investment is quite slow, I did look into it and is part of my 'to do list' eventually.
still haven't even insulated garage door haha
I will go with the greenstuff stuff, then seal it in or something.
also nowhere to put the water tank:D tight for space!
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cant wait to see blacky in there.
blacky I mean the black aro.... otherwise that would just be inappropriate to want to see a blacky in that tank. :digH:
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no drip system.
semi automatic.
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Copied from a previous post & edited:
When you add chlorine to water you get hypochlorous acid which reacts with nitrogen compounds like ammonia,urea and the amines (in all proteins) and forms monochloramine. When you add more chlorine you get dichloramine and even more you get trichloramine. All these (and other reactions) form part of the "chlorine demand" in the water. You cannot get free available chlorine until this "chlorine demand" is satisfied. Therefore when the reaction is pushed towards trichloramine there will be virtually no monochloramine present. In some states in the US they treat the water with monochloramine (made by reacting chlorine with ammonia) because chlorine will react with other impurities in the water and form some compounds that are not so nice (such as acetone) where as monochloramine will not. Monochloramine is not as effective in treating water as chlorine which is used in NZ but is still a strong oxidising agent.
When people complain that the chlorine in a swimming pool is too strong and it is burning their eyes the problem usually is that the free available chlorine has been used up by contaminants in the water (such as urea) and this has pushed the chloramines back towards the monochloramine and this is what is burning their eyes. The problem is fixed by adding more chlorine.
When you allow water to stand or aerate it to get rid of the chlorine the chloramines all move back to monochloramine and this will react with your fish the same as an under chlorinated swimming pool will with your eyes.
Chlorine and all chloramines can be converted to more harmless chemicals with the addition of sodium thiosulphate which is the active ingredient you are buying from the petshop with dechlorinating products.
Drinking water will contain various impurites that add to the chlorine demand and will form chloramines and other compounds. Ammonia is a bi product of the reaction when adding thiosulphate to chlorinated water. Chlorine only is used to sanitize water supplies in NZ and when you add chlorine you will always get chloramines unless you use distilled water.
To summarise. Correct me if I am wrong.
Chlorine reaction g to stuff to sanitise will always produce chloramines
We add chlorine to our water at the plant
Chloramines cannot be removed by aerating
In a nutshell... You say one should always use a product like prime or similar?
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I guess you would get water from Waitakere reservoirs?
I recently downloaded water quality reports from them and also spoke to them and the conclusion is that this water is very good quality rainwater with relatively little TDS or anything else for that matter.
They only add a bit of calcium to help stabilise pH at 7.5 I think and then of course the usual chlorine (not much) and fluoride.
yeah, i have put the water in alreayd but i have been making small 10 to 15% water changes.
but just checking.
NZ water is generally good.
i have oyster shell in the filter to add some buffering capacity. my ph is quite stable with this method and regularly calibrate the ph meter.
good to know though, thanks!
we are still waiting for your pics of the wild discus in the show tank:D
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What's on your mind Henny?
i dont use ager for my water in torbay, but new to massey, so making sure someone is also using tap water with no ager
my drum eventually will have a aerator as i usually do.
just to aerate it but making sure that straight tap water in water changes is ok:D
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I live in Hobsonville and don't use water ager.
cool you on tank water or mains water. is that source the same as massey?
New Tank mate for BRutus - Indo Tiger 6 to 7cm
in Rare and unusual fish
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Be careful, Dats can get stunted quickly if they dont get enough food!