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henward

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Posts posted by henward

  1. yeah currently studying waste water treatment, the bardenpho method is just like a simple sump method. I had a chat to the manager about the moving media idea and she liked it. i'll have to email a link for her.

    apparently k1 is used in europe in sewage plants? as well as fisheries

  2. Mean dude, it's a beast of a sump lol, might copy your design on a smaller scale soon haha if that's ok with you.

    of course it is lol why not? i copy the rest of the world lol

    all designs i get is not reinventing the wheel really, just from mfk, here, other sites, pictures etc.

  3. oooooh pretty.... hows the moving media working for you???

    The static media i have in the tank was the same amount i had total in the set ups previously with more fish.

    suffice to say, the static media alone is enough media for the entire set up, its deceptive but there is a huge amount in there.

    the moving media , is really ... a not so impulse impulse buy lol

    im gonna be st raight up, its probably more fo rme than the tank :bounce:

    its so hypnotic and looks so 'industrial' :D so i got it. sure, i did get minor, moderate buyers remorse after i clicked buy now on ebay - but there is 50litres of K1 media there. and according tot he K1 media site, it is enough to feed 250grams of food a day to the fish.

    so it should be ok lol

  4. Looks great, excuse my ignorance but aren't the gap between the baffles extremely narrow? Would this not effect flow?

    The gapes between baffles are more than enough. it is just a little over 1cm actual gap. The length of the tank is 50cm and the gap at the entrace at the bottom is 4cm big.

    so i guess, total is the 50cm accross and 1cm, which is quite a big gap. handles the flow very well, basically to tell, there is no accumulation of water levels and fiference between the chambers. The chambers are different water heights to each other so its easy to compare the one before if it is accumulating.

    I used the green japanese matt stuff to block the gapes to stop the moving media from going up the gap (whcih it did lol and i had to pull them out) that restricted the flow when the media blocked it lol

    but after its out, no problems, max flow, the sump will easily handle double the flow from what i see (future proof for a 800 to 1k litre tank and a gold arowana perhaps) after taking the wife to europe :slfg:

  5. I use a bag of tablets I bought from Henward a year ago that I can't remember what they actually are...They're green. Feeding a handful every two days or so and I'm still only 2/3 through.

    I'm a fan of cheap food. :)

    haha,

    those were a giant bulk lot of JBL.

    i sold them to you same price as i bought them from memory.

    cheap cos i got them in bulk anopther forum member who orders i believe straight from Germania.

  6. size : 1600x500x500

    Sock Chamber (with heaters - 1.8kw heating capacity)

    second chamber:

    Moving media K1

    THird CHamber:

    static media, mix of ceramic noodles and eheim media, aqua one media

    Fourth chamber

    Return Pumps, Sump Drain for water changer

    20130627_073733_zps1537b0ec.jpg

    Video

  7. i have K1 moving media, i have a pump and a small tunze nano.

    its only moving 50 to 60% of the media, i want a good boil.

    anyway, i read that the best is a good old fashioned powerful air pump that drives big bubbles up.

    i have an airpump, but it is nowhere near powerful enough to push the media up.

    what is a big airpump output like, any TM links as examples you can give? would be appreciated, never really looked into air pumps before.

    but siffuced to say, a high output is good, so maybe i can have 3 to 5 outlets of big bubbles to boil the entire area.

  8. I have been reading up on using carbon for chlorine removal, and for the most part I have found that it is very effective at removing chlorine. In my head, I believe it should work since the water will be moving rather slowly (0.7 litres per hour) so the carbon will have a lot of time to adsorb the chlorine. The air stone at the end is there just to help get rid of any chlorine that didn't get adsorbed.

    As for draining the tank, I am planning on building a PVC overflow system, like this:

    That will drain into a 50 litre container under the tank, which I can empty once a day.

    Cool, yeah cos you will need a drain and the drain has to be on the sump, the sump will over flow. thats cool

    in that case, the carbon should do the trick.

    however, i would position the aerator on top of the carbon, so your best bet is to reduce the chlorine as much as possible before it goes through carbon.

    THsi way you can prolonge the carbons life, air is a renewable resource so you can use as much of it as possible.

    I would use a fine airstone too, more surface area to dissipate chlroine.

    but looks good.

    i have never regretted setting up my auto changer, it changes your life and hobby lol literally!

    spending time to maintain the tank drops significantly

  9. The problem I have is I live in a townhouse, and I don't have any space for a large drum for the water to age in, which is why I am looking into an in line filter of sorts to get rid of the chlorine instead. The reason for my design above is because I already have most of the materials necessary to build it, so it will cost me next to nothing where an in line filter system will require me to spend more money to get set up. And since I have recently lost my job, money is a luxury right now. (I've got a new one though, but still).

    fair call.

    in that case, making do with twhat you have is always good and efficient, i do the same, i always keep old fittings, hoses etc.

    ok, your set up looks ok, carbon however i am not familiar with in terms of chlorine removal.

    your system seems sound, except for the carbon bit which i cannot advise.

    drain for your tank? where does the water drain to?

  10. I would recommend installing a filter cartridge before it goes into the tank, you can get them from just water etc

    in saying that, probably better to have a drum that ages the water then a pump that turns on at your switch, that pumpws water in, then the water drain automatically.

    in that plan you have, where and how does the water drain?

  11. love the way everyone sits in judgement

    seller will do what they want to from their point of view

    sounds like you want some cheap fish and you are annoyed that they won't sell at the price you want to pay

    no, not really.

    i saw the auction pop up twice. clearly there is a barrier to the sale.

    either its priced too high, or someone doesnt want 3 lumbering oscars.

    So i offered to buy oscars individually.

    And they said no.

    thats fine, i move on, later, the auction is still there.

    when you sell something, there has to be a value proposition.

    that can be the price, or the value of wha tyou are selling, value is not always money. it can be sentimental.

    in this case, the price does not attract people, and the fish inside contributes to that.

    if he separated the fish individually, and the tank. I would bet he is likely to sell them quicker.

    his price for the fish in itself at $40 each is not horrendous, but you can get babies for $20 at the shop and unfortunately, in nz, the larger the fish, the less it is worth, that goes for arowanas too unfortunately, unless you get an avid collector that would be willing to pay for an adult fish.

    So I am merely pointing out that if one wants to sell, you have to sell on the terms of the buyer, not the seller.

    You can only dictate how you sell if clearly, your product is in high demand, if it is not - then you need to pander to the audience which is the buyer.

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