suphew

Why does your nitrite go up when you do a water change? This shouldnt happen, you new water should have no nitrite or nitrate in it. The reason for changeing the wtaer is to remove the nitrate that has built up at the end of the nitrogen cycle. Also if you filter is working corrrectly you shouldn't ever have any measurable nitrite Maybe you should post what your parameters are, "acceptable" doesn't really help much, plus some things arent normally toxic can be toxic if other levels are out for exaple when your PH goes up even small amounts of amonia because toxic. In a cycled tank Amonia = 0 Nitrite = 0 nitrate no more then 20-30ppm

Can take 9 months for marine to cycle esp if you live rock wasn't already cycled. The readings can all look pretty normal but the algae/cyno blooms keep happening. I would try and get a skimmer in there also, without one it wil be hard to keep anything other than fish

Ehiem 1060 2500lph?? $120 secondhand

YEah this is possible but not recommended because if anything goes wrong (like not putting the seal together correctly after cleaning your filter) you will drain the whole tank. Have a look at the salt water forums, check out the stand pipes, this is most popular way to do things. I do have a closed loop on my tank which is basically a hole in the bottom that feeds directly into a pump then back into the tank via two other holes. I'm only happy doing this because I have a high quality parts, eheim pump, hansen flanges and taps, glued pressure pipes for the plumbing. And lastly a sump that sits under the whole lot. I couldnt sleep at night if I was using a external cannister files to do this.

Talking about the whole MAF thing, at the kapimana club meeting a few weeks back, a couple of the guys had had a meeting with MAF, NIWA, and DOC to talk about the new 'rules'. Was very interesting. They are going to get harder about it, but there was one peice of really good news. MAF have said that if something is curently in the country and they are given proof either a sample (body!) or picture (i don't know what condishions there are over pictures) they will add it to the allowed list (unless it is listed as posinous, or noctious) man I cant spell tonite). Once it is on the list , to be removed the requester will have to go thru the same process as we currently have to to get something added. Does this make sense? I guess the importers/clubs will be talking to MAF etc soon (they are going to do fresh water first then move on to marine) and will be able to clarify. In the mean time keep taking and keeping pic's of all those 'unusual :lol: ' fish and inverts

From what I understand of the articule, the reason they suggest that low flow rate through the skimmer is because the air contact time for some organics is longer (up to two minutes) so if you are running your water through too fast they don't attach to the air bubbles. So running your skimmer fast might pull out a little more of one type (so you get more skim mate) but collects none of some types of organics?? Just how I understood it, I'm far from expert

Discus have very short intestins (sp) so tend to eat smaller amounts but more often. Plus they are messy cause they dont digest the food as well. THis is the reason people often recomend discus only and bare bottom tanks.

Depends on the bioload, just the sponge COULD be ok, but yeah they should clean it in tank water. I have read a few things that say it doesn't kill much of the bacteria using tap water (if it did I guess I have wasted $$$$ buying soap over the years!) but why risk it, go the tank water. Wouldn't bother with UGF esp in a tank that is already setup, its just a trap for fish pooh and Noah used them while collecting two of every fish... If they need more filtation (do some water tests, amonia, nitrite) then suggest they add another small powered filter.

Be interested to know who has them in Wellington for $120? I just off the phone to the only person I know of here (currently has 6 for sale) that has any and they are $150. Alway keen to save a $ or 2

Even a pinch of fish food evey few days will get the cycle going. You dont need to add bacteria, it is in the air and on every surface already, there is nothing magical about the bacteria in fish tanks. Adding cycle or similar product might save you a day or two, but by far the best way to cycle a tank quickly is to run a filter in an old tank for a week or so and then put it into the new tank. Also what you were planning to do would be find, BUT I suggest you use the smallest red tail so the bioload doesn't go up too quickly, plus if you use the red tail be prepared that you might loose it. You can also help minise the bioload hit by not feeding the red tail for a few days.

If you dont have plants you dont need lights. I would add some oxygen weed evey now and again, the fish will love it and eat it in a few days, just watch for snails as it often comes out of ponds and might have snails/eggs on it. I quick dip in water with a little bleach then a good rinse will kill them.

Why not set up for fish that like the high PH?

The reason people say not to put your tank in a draft is because is lowers the temp causing your heaters to work over time. NB: it will also make the water evaperate more quickly so you might need to top it up.

Pretty much anything with a surface will work, esp with a filter that size on a tank that small. Pumice or scorea (sp?) are good but you need to check for impurities, plain old gravel would work. Overseas a lot of people use bits of plastic, basically what ever they can find cheap, pegs, cut up straws etc. Regards the filter wool, there are two schools of thought (well I guess 3 if you add not using it at all, like I do). They really depend on how your filter is setup or more to the point how easy it is to access. If you put the wool first it will catch all the big crap saving your filter media from getting clogged up, the down side is you have to replace the wool often. If you put it last it will stop any big chunks going back into your tank, but the filter media will clog faster. IMHO the best setup is a seperate prefilter designed for ease of removeal/service.

Yeah you can get mudskippers here. What about lizards? Or frogs?

Yeah you can slow the fluvals down by doing this with no problems, however I would just try directing the output from the pump into a corner or one side. The output flow isn't that strong and remember most fish come from streams or lakes that have far more water flow than a pump would ever mkae.

I hear bottom trawling works well

Beach sand is ok, just make sure you clean it well, and if possible boil it to be sure. However you all need to beware that sand can clog (i.e. turn into lumps) and compact which creates anerobic (sp?) areas in your tank. I don't know if or why this is bad but have read in a number of places that it should be avoided. Maybe some one else can explain?

It doesn't really matter how you attach it as long at it isn't going to come loose. Just wind it round. Java moss will do ok in low llight but is fine with more, it will tend to grow up, so maybe lower is better but its up to you. Spread it out a bit, it will slowly cover the log but 'tends' to grow loose rather than creep over the log. For the best effect I would try and cover the whole area you want it to grow on, that way it will look nice faster.

I think I would be worried about any pool chemicals that might still be in it, are you sure you would be able to clean it well enough to get rid of them all. Sand is pretty cheap wouldn't it give you better peace of mind to buy (or collect) some new stuff?

By the way he has relisted, and it is only 1 shrimp. However he's willing to include extras at the closing price of the auction for each one. So wasp that will be $100 for your bag of 10 please. :lol: I'm in two minds, on one hand good on him for making some pocket money, and he has a picture up there so only a fool wouldn't realise what they were paying for. On the other he does misrepresent them by saying things like "tropical" and "best suited to temp 19-28 degrees"

Haha no 2x20mm arent the same as 1x40mm, cant remember the formula, but it is something squared, so as you go twice the size you get 4 times the area or volume of water through the hole.

Just wanted to clarify that moving water from your old tank does almost nothing to speed up the cycle process, there is so little bacteria in the water compared to what is in the tank on the filter and surfaces that you will gain just as much out of the air and off your hands etc with-in a hour or to. The benefit of moving over old water is to save the fish having to go through significant changes in water parameters. If you are unable to pre-cycle a filter (or the filter media) in an old tank, the next best thing is to move some gravel or anything with a good surface area, like a bunch of plants or a log of wood.

I alway through I was pretty good at maths, but I'm not sure how $4000 is cheaper than $1100???? Of course I'm happy to believe you, my faith in your maths is so strong I will even go so far as to offer to swap $1100 cash of mine for $4000 of yours. :lol: :lol: :lol:

What about taking the media out of the new filter and putting it into the old for a while, even hanging it in the tank with water flowing over it would do. The cloudy water will settle down in a few days, I wouldn't go too hard out doing water changes (esp if you dont have any fish in there) cause it will slow down the cycle process (you would be removing the food for the bacteria), small water water changes are ok.