suphew

LOL I did say at the start it was pretty difficult to get a photo off it. Its also the first time in 2-3 weeks that I have actually seen it, it doesn't come out till well after midnight

The red X marks the spot, It's actually past there round the point, but the proper road stops and there is an access road past the boat sheds. Do you know how much water you need?? Pies and I might be going there tomorrow and will have a bulge pump with us. PM me your number if you want me to let you know when we go.

Sorry about the very poor picture, it ws taken at 3 in the morning pitch black and was in the back corner of the tank. Anyway, yellow banded/boxer shrimp.

I have used those plastic mesh filing trays they have in offices, cheap as chips to buy. Plus the sides are folded up so the sit nicely on the tank. Warehouse stationary sell them.

No not at all, removing the water just increases the % of treatment/water that is still in the tank. I usually aim to do as large a water change as practible once the treatment is done. Sometimes even do a water change wait another hour or two and do a second change. I would rather be safe than sorry and as long as you do your water changes correctly they aren't going to cause any harm, just a bit of extra work. As an aside has any one else noticed less algae after dosing for FW's? Pies and I both notitced it in our tanks but we collect water at the same time etc so may have been coincidence.

Surely there must be a limit to how much you can increase the flow and CO2, at some stage the flow must get so high that the water isn't in the reactor long enough for the 'reaction' to happen? Increasing the volume of the reactor would increase the amount of time water is in the reactor at a given flow rate allowing you to drive the reactor harder? I always assumed that the reason larger reactors are rated for larger tanks was because of the extra water volume inside as well as the extra media.

I had the same problem until I did the second dose after a week, haven't seen any since and that was 3-4 months ago. I'm not sure how they breed, maybe they lay eggs that arn't killed by the treatment and waiting a few days allows them to hatch but not breed again?? JDM I would still treat them now if I was you, you could leave them but if you do and they keep increasing its just going to get more risky to treat them later, my two cents worth

far out, thats almost 3/4 of a liter of vinager per week in my top up?? Seems a lot?

Just something I have heard dont know where, guess it may be a myth. Pretty sure flatworm exit doesn't hurt anything else in the tank, which is a shame, it would be good it it killed pesty nudi's as well. Anything else that dies is because of the toxins released by the flatworms. From what I have seen the people that have had problems haven't removed as many FW as possible before they got started. Myself included. Yep have heard that some six lines will eat them, when pies had FW's he had none in his display but plently in his sump. So some thing in the display must have been eating them.

If you planning you using the tank as is, I wouldn't bother taking out the glass, just silicon a new piece inside covering the whole bottom. will fix the problem and make the bottom stronger so hopfully wont happen again. But unless you know why the bottom is cracked, ie something was dropped on it, I wuldn't trust that it had been build with the right thinkness glass or was badly braced etc. My tank is almost 1700 long and only really supported at each end. I can move the poly in the middle of the tank.

Can someone explain the idea behind vinager in the kalkwater? I have heard of it before but didnt want to try it until I knew what it was going to do.

AS far as I know flatworm exit is the only product that works. the problem with them is they dont stop breeding and will cover everything, in the exstream they will even cover corals and kill them. Second problem is they are very toxic to corals and fish when they die, it's not unheard of for a tank full of them to suddenly decide to die and posion your tank at the same time. Be very carefull treating the tank if you have lots of them the first time I did it I had heaps, ended up killing a cleaner shrimp, purple tang, and something else (can't remember what it was). Make sure you have enough water to completely change all the water i.e. 100%, not suggesting you do it ll at once but you might need to do 2-3 large water changes in the day, plus you need to syphon out as many as you can before you start, and syphon out as many bodies as you can, so you need plently of water. Also as I understand it (and could be wrong here) when you put the treatment in, its not the amount of water in your tank that matters but the number of FW you are killing, the flatworm exit doesn't hurt your tank you can just keep adding it, so if after the 30-40 minutes you have to wait, don't be afraid to add lots more if you can still see any moving. Last tip is to do another treatment after a week, I learnt this the hard way, you will never kill them all first time round, and if you wait till you can see them again you wont kill all the new ones with that treatment either.

Thats a lot of fish for a newly setup tank, I would do a few extra water changes, not add anymore fish, and just wait a bit, the tank will find it's balance soon and your algae should go away. Do you have another tank?? Maybe you could swap the filters over or move some filter media this would help.

I "fixed" a few when I was younger, poorer, and they cost a lot more. but IMHO its not worth the hassle, plus its almost impossible to get them to seal again so they tend to leak after a while.

yeah should have said,, take them off the corals before putting the back in the tank. lol Never seems to have caused a problem, was fragging the other day and used the same to dry contacts for glueing. I guess if your worried use non-bleached

Was actually paper handtowels I used. :lol:

Theres a 1260 which is a new version of the 1060, same spec, on trademe at the moment, would be purfect for what you want http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=59036068

I have used an resin king 4 pump, think most bigger ponds would be fine. Most have head hight on the box

would be interested to know where they can be got for dime a dozen, I looked into them when I had fresh water for adding plant fert and couldn't find any cheap enough (ie. tens of dollars not hundreds) to be worth doing. By the way, what I did find was that you could buy control units and pumps from hydroponic's stores, the controllers could have just about any type of probe plugged into it.

Saw pies one a couple of days ago, looking nice and fat.

dont know for O but not at all unusual for a lot of fish. See if you can find out what it was eating with the last owner. Also try some live food, you could try catching some of those pest fish in the streams, gambusa? They look like white guppies. They are on the pest list so no one is going to be the least upset if a few get eaten.

yeah, paper towel to dry surfaces. superglue is good, was designed to glue peoples bits together in the war so is non-toxic

I was told by an LFS (animates) that B/N's were ok to keep with turtles because of their spikes. lol maybe a very small turtle and large B/N!

how mch is it?? does any one know? I just used some normal old fast set superglue to make up some frags, I had a rock fall over and it broke off some tip, decided it give it a go. I have done lrger frags with aquakneedit but it is a pint to use they seem to come loose more often than not

I have had a couple of fish jump, in my old tanks, none so far in my current one (touch wood). Other loses have all been new fish that died within a couple of days, didn't adjust or arrived in poor condision, which is a common problem living so far from any decent marine shops. Oh and a blenny that didn't get on with my bi-color blenny, starved cause it could never get out to feed (lessen learnt from that one)