suphew

Don't do this because they are prone to failing. Instead run your return over the top of the tank, just below the water line drill a small hole in the pipe. If the power fails, the tank will drain below the small hole and it will suck in air breaking the syphon. Your down flow pipe should be at least a size larger than the return pump outlet. And as you know your durso needs to be a size larger again.

Also require CO2, if your using a gas heater it can increase the CO2 in your room throwing out the balance in the tank.

Are you still getting the same amount of bubbles?? It's not uncommon for the air feed lines to get blocked with salt, I pulled mine apart on the weekend and cleaned it out because the foam/bubbles had dropped right off.

Fresh water is 1kg per liter. so work out how many liters and add a little for the gravel etc.

Nah cause you can get steel CO2 fire extingishers

If you looking ay converting an fire extingisher bottle try and get a steel one, they have a far better pass rate.

I have used silicon under wtaer in my marine tank, no problems for fish

Discus dont like high water flow, make sure there are plenty of places with low flow, if you need to direct the pump output towards the glass. FYI I used to direct my pumps behind my drift wood etc to stop my discus hiding to much.

yes 15mm, 25mm 32mm, 40mm 50mm etc. but just remember that is the size of the whole in the middle of the bulkhead, not the size of the hole in your tank.

I had a cold water marine tank (4 foot) in the early 80's I didn't know any one else who was doing it. had no filter no skimmer a couple of 4 fluro lights. kept a few blennies, crabs, shrimps, anenomes a live for about 6 months. failed in the end because I was too young to drive and my family got sick of driving me to collect water! I guess that makes me one of the first lol. I also had 4-5 other fresh water tanks, frogs, eels, turtles, etc, but not many fish.

MAybe you should find out what the chemical was in them before getting too worried. It might be nothing. I have used plastic containers in the past that have had nasty chemicals in them. I have just water blasted and soaked for a while, haven't had any problems (touch wood)

I have heard people say they go away but has anyone actually managed to do this?? I just a look on reefcentral as well, and couldn't find anyone there that managed to just get rid of them, every one has used either flatworm exit, 6 line wrass, or nudi.

lol I guess all you can see from this is that prices change a lot!

if its cayno (blue green algae) it will be just sitting on the surface and you will be able to syphon it out easily. But either way the problem is because your tank is out of balance most commonly caused by too many nutirants. Check your not feeding too much, increase your water changes, and add more plants.

The flat worm exit isn't toxic itself but the dieing flatworms are. The first time I used it I waited and had lots of flatworms, I lost a purple tang and cleaner shrimp. I have treated a number of times since then and not had a problem. The main difference being I treated as soon as I saw any flatworms. My advise would be to kill them now before they get out of control, and follow the instructions to the letter, accept change heaps more water than they suggest and you will have to retreat a couple of times to get them all. You could wait and see if they go away but from what I have seen they don't and by waiting the numbers will just increase. They will have come in on a new addition to the tank, coral or rock. If I'm not 100% sure of where some thing I add has come from I dip in flatworm exit before I put it in the tank now.

If can keep them alive outside you just need a tank/bucket etc full of green water

I'll see how I go, broke my foot on Tuesday riding my bike so not very mobile at the moment. But it is a nice shade of purple.

As best I can remember I paid or have seen them at the following prices bicolour blenny $60 2 clown fish, start at around $30 a bluetang ?? maybe a yellow tang, paid $120 for mine but prices change alot some blue chromis, $20-$30 have had both firefish and psuedochromis but can't remember the cost

it depends on what type, if is dead or alive and where it's from. there is also a limit on the amount. but in saying that I didn't think you were allowed to take any coral from aussie

It could be your test kit, but that reading isn't that low, testing PH can be a waste of time, it will swing during the day anyway, mine sits round 8 when the lights are off and moves to 8.3 during that day

What sort of lighting to you have? It would need to be good with all the nutirants and CO2. I would stop to CO2 and ferts for a while till the plants get settled in, and your tank matures a bit. Since you tank is new I wouldn't recommend erythromycin or bleach, it might clear your cyano in the short term but will also affect the BIO filter causing higher nutirents, and you wil get the cyano back worse

No a full syphon restricts the flow to set the water level in the over flow so you must have a backup, unless you have the capacity in your overflow and tank to give you time to see and clear it, using a weir you wouldn't have this. The balance in a durso is adjusted using the air holes not a restriction so there is capacity built into the plumbing to allow for unplanned for restrictions/changes.

Could you explain please? my reasoning is simple, your are restricting the flow so if you get a blockage there will be more restriction therefore the overflow level will get higher, at some stage causing it to overflow. I'm more than will to listen to why this wouldn't be the case

YOu might have too much back pressure in your pipe work to need the outlet to be below the surface. is the pipe size of the down pipe or bulkhead smaller than the durso part? It needs to be. There has been a lot of debate re durso vs full syphon systems here suggest you have a read before you commit one way or the other, I'm a fan of durso's I think they are safer and for me the noise isn't a problem over the sound of all my pumps, fans, etc. If you are running your over flow via a weir to run a full syphon system you would have to have a back up overflow pipe. Because they work by restricking the flow in the pipe if you have any blockage and no back up you will overflow your tank.

If it was white spot you would have seen the spots well before the fish was in trouble. It's possible the fishes gill were damaged while the tank was still cycling and its showing up now that the heat has gone up a bit? Higher temp=less O2 in the water, you could try putting a fan or two on your tank to get the temp down a little, although it's not really very hot. Also stress is the biggest killer, try and keep it to a minimum, your could reduce your lighting and stay away from the tank. BTW the last thing you want to do is try remove the fish the stress will almost kill it for sure.