PowderPig

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I'd try the nitrate test again. Make sure you shake bottle 2 really well before adding the drops to the tube. I like to tap bottle 2 on a hard surface a few times before shaking it too. I believe there are crystals in that bottle that need broken up..(assuming API brand test) If your water looks green you could siphon some into a clear jug or bottle to double check, hold it against a white piece of paper or similar.

Have you tried looking for a Youtube video on how to set it up? That's what I did with my cheap Chinese feeder that came with very poorly translated instructions. good luck

Try your local landscape supply yard for the silica sand. The yard here in Nelson has, if i remember correctly, 20kg bags of 2mm sand for $20.

No, I haven't considered inline, though now you mention it I'll have to look into it. Thanks So I'll need at least the 2x 200w heaters, with 2x 300w being a more prudent choice. Thanks for crunching the numbers for me hovmoller Very envious of your 300l sump setup flymike, might convert to a large sump myself further down the track. I'll look into that controller recommendation too cheers Thanks for everyone's feedback, it's much appreciated.

Thanks Guys, The tank will be in my living room. The house is well insulated and double glazed. Minimum winter room temperature may get as low as 15-16 deg C (if I was away for a weekend and not heating the house) I'd hope to keep the water at 26 deg C. Easily most of the year would be less than 10 deg difference between room temp and water temp. Those 300w Jagers are just so big! lol, but I haven't bought anything yet so options are open. Thanks for the help so far, Cheers

I'm looking at heating options for a new 650L African Cichlid aquarium (180x60x60cm). I'm thinking 2 x Jager 200w heaters should work.? I'll put them in the tank as filtration is an Fx6 canister. My reasoning for 2 smaller heaters is if the unthinkable happens and one sticks on it shouldn't cook a tank that big..? Ultimately I'd like to add a heater controller, but this won't be happening right away. I'm interested in controller recommendations though, if anyone knows a good model or brand that would suit this setup. Cheers

You shouldn't need to if the tank is cycled properly. I'd just test the water every few days after adding fish to make sure the filter is processing everything as expected. Adding the fish carefully is probably the best way to keep stress to a minimum.

Okay, cool, I understand aerating the water is more important at higher temperature's so I'm sure you'll be fine in a cold water system. When I refer to "dechlorinator" I really mean water conditioner. Prime, for example does more than just remove chlorine. It takes care of chloramine and heavy metals, plus has the advantage of detoxifying ammonia and nitrite for a short period if you make a mistake and notice a spike in either of those two nasties. Plenty of people keep fish successfully without use of water conditioners but its handy to know about them IMO. Have you managed to convert any ammonia into nitrite yet?

Hi Dean, how are you fishless cycling your tank? pure ammonia of fish food? I believe a combination of the two might be the best method. What size tank are you cycling? unless its huge I think I'd full it up. Providing aeration is also key as bacteria will multiply faster in well oxygenated water. Ensure good surface agitation and/or add an air stone if you haven't already. I found a good read on the subject here http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html It's good to have a water test kit to track your progress. API master kit is recommended as it tests PH, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. I just cycled an unplanted tank using the fish food method, lights off, but heated to 30°C. I added a small amount of flake food that I first ground to dust, every 2nd day, It took about a week for the ammonia levels to climb and another week or so for nitrite to climb, and just over 30days for nitrites to drop down to zero. I then did a 95% water change, vacuuming up any leftover fish food, lowered the temperature to 25°C and added some fish. They all look good and the water is testing perfect. Remember to always add dechlorinator (Seachem Prime or similar) to your water changes. Once your tank is cycled add fish ASAP (after a large water change) to keep your filter fed. Once the filter is cycled it will need a constant supply of ammonia or the good bacteria will stave and die off,- fish waste will now be that ammonia source.