spooky

Sorry to be pedantic, but this isn't worded too well and it reads as one of those "common misconceptions" I learnt about in 5th form science many years ago and still annoys me. Plants are always converting O2 to CO2 (i.e. breathing). The O2 production while the lights are on is a lot greater than the O2 use, so on balance (and for the sake of this argument) it is true. I'll stop being picky now.

Another tip for coke-bottle arrangements: place the bottle on top of the lights. Then the yeast growth, and hence CO2 production, is modulated with the heat from the lights. Then there is more CO2 when the lights are on and the plants photosynthesize. Theoretically this should keep the CO2 levels and pH more stable. Assuming the CO2 dissolves quickly enough and so on. I have no idea if it actually works out this way.

To stop yeast getting into the tube, try using a bigger bottle (assuming the source is a real DIY coke-bottle arrangement). If you can't/don't want to change the bottle, put in less sugar/water or keep it cooler. In other words, either reduce the CO2 production rate so you get less froth or make more room for the froth. I only half fill a 1.5 litre bottle and it works fine.

I vacuum my java moss "carpet" by pressing lightly on it with the gravel vac. Gets lots of crap out and doesn't slow down the stuff. Then again, can you kill java moss ?

With my DIY CO2 system I don't have any measurable pH shift. Partly it's the good buffering of Dunedin tap water and partly its the crappy amount of CO2 my system actually mixes into the water. Still, the plants like it. So I say give the CO2 a go and if the pH starts to shift too much take it out again rather than trying to compensate. It's not as if its expensive or difficult to set up. As for Otos: look them up on Planet Catfish (http://www.planetcatfish.com), they have a catalog entry and a catfish of the month entry (down the bottom of that list). They are good with algae and don't grow unexpectedly or attack other fish. One word about my advice: I have never got my tank completely algae free, make of that what you will . :roll:

Oto = Otocinclus sp. They are a sucking catfish like a pleco, but look more like a small chinese algae eater. Unlike a chinese algae eater, they stay small. About 5cm if I remember. If you get some, get a small group. They also have a reputation for not adapting well to new tanks, but if they survive the first few weeks they are rock-solid. They aren't that common in the pet stores down here (Dunedin) and even if they are there you tend not to notice a small brown fish. They don't harm anything and most fish seem to ignore them. http://www.planetcatfish.com/cotm/1996_12.php http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/loricari/otocincl/107_f.php

Thanks. I got very lucky with the photo. I was sitting well back from the tank and just zoomed in after taking some tank-wide snaps. The camera was focused on the front glass and the fish was cruising near the front. I was also lucky with the sword, it was one of five similar males at the LFS, but this one just had the perfect colouring. I should have got some of the similar females at the same time, but I won't have the tank space for them, or any offspring, until March .

I only have one livebearer, but I got a very nice pic of him today. So here he is.

So here is my tank. Well half of it, I wasn't paying attention and all the full tank shots have the reflection of the photographer in them . It is recovering from an algae outbreak after I removed the CO2. The CO2 is back on now, The "reactor" is buried under the java moss.

Get some more silicon. You'll use the rest later. I wouldn't trust any glue really, all expel "stuff". In my line of work we worry about the gasses they let off (not from a toxicity point of view though) and they let off a lot, even once they are dry. Toxins into water: I don't know, but I wouldn't be surprised. From an economic point of view: how many fish have to die until it equals a tube of silicon ? Not a lot, go figure.

Shae: Otos will, Can't say what else, the Otos eat it all. Warren: Where do you get your info ? I need enlightenment. I remember you pointing to the Sears-Conlin article. Do you have any other reading recommendations ?

Plants really only help with algae if they are growing well. Even then it may not help since the conditions for good plant growth are the same as for good algae growth (the idea is that the plants can outcompete the algae for nutrients, but that depends on the exact nutrient balance). On the other hand, plants are good for the fish to hide in, help with filtration and look good. So you should definitely get some more.

A brown algae outbreak is common in new tanks. Cut back on the light and think about getting some algae eating fish (I have had success with Otos and brown algae). Cleaning it off and a water change will also help. In other words I agree with Shae.

Shae, plants photosynthesise in both the red and the blue (i.e. anywhere but the green). Unfortunately water absorbs more light in the red than the blue, so even though the white light is is "wasting" a bit of green light, the extra blue light that gets down to the plants is probably greater than the light from the red bulb. Plants will take anything but green. I have heard two different theories about using the mixed white and red bulbs. One is that the extra red brings out the colours in the fish, the other is that red light is better for plants than algae. My theory is that the mixture of bulbs looks more "technical" and makes them easier to sell to us. For the record, I have that mixture of bulbs because that is what came with the tank.

Mine is heavily planted, but not devoted entirely to plants. It has a medium going-on-heavy fish load. Don't have pics yet. Well, not good ones, I must have another go at photgraphing my tank. I have a 80cm tank (I can never remember the other dimensions, but it has about 120 litres of water in it, thats on top of rocks and gravel and the like). I use DIY CO2, 0.75L water, 1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 tsp yeast, seems to last a month. I also add 10ml of fertiliser (no phosphates, contains iron, etc.) to the tank. I find the plants need both to really get going. I didn't replenish the CO2 for a month and the algae started to get serious, added the CO2 again and the algae died back almost literally overnight. I keep the CO2 bottle on top of the lights to keep it warm (and to cut back on the CO2 at night). The lighting is just like ballistic's. I once had a lot of different plants in there, but pulled out the half that were underperforming and just kept the stuff that was growing well. What is left is Hygrophilia Diformis, Hygrophilia Perensis, Cabomba Caroliniana, Acorus Gramineus, something which looks a bit like Hygrophilia Polysperma, but isn't, and the obligatory Amazon Sword. There are also some babytears in the corner that escaped the purge. The H. Diformis and H. Perensis are particularly agressive gowers. For ground cover I have some microswords and something grassy, but these aren't going very well. As an experiment I have staked out a layer of java moss as a ground cover, but I expect to have to do some serious pruning there .

Should be no problem then.

You might also want to ask yourself why the fin has been nipped. If one of your fish is beginning to show an attitude problem something may have to be done (separation, providing more hiding places, or the classic tank rearrangement).

The hygrophila difformis is kind of cool, it will grow out of the water at which point the leaves change form and become solid rather than fingery. If you cut the stem and plant these solid-leaf bits back under water the new leaves transform themselves to being feathery again. You sometimes see the emersed (solid) form sold in the pet stores. Fully submerged of course . This is how I first got hold of some and it was a bit of a surprise when it first changed. Made positive identification easy though, difformis = two forms.

I have had some success following the ideas in that article too. I've only been playing the plant game seriously for about four months and I haven't got things right yet, but I have managed to limit my algae growth problems. I just use a general phosphate-free aquarium fertiliser rather than being too careful about what the tank is actually lacking (I think this is where I go wrong, I'm probably still missing something). I also add CO2. Does anyone know of more recent information than what thekrib.com has ? There is a lot of guess work and loose ends in the Sears-Conlin article.

An extension cord was my first choice. Both flats are student flats so there is a good possibility that no one will be around in January (I'm almost certain that this is the case on the downhill side) and so there is a good chance the power will be off between tenants. All the simple plans have a strong possibility of problems. If it turns out OK, I'll take the easy route, but I'd like to be prepared for the worst case option.

Sorry Caryl, I won't be making that meeting, I've got work commitments that evening. Fortunately work commitments with good food and company, but work commitments none-the-less. Ira: Yeah, I've thought of a generator. I'm just planning for the strong possibility I won't be there, but I'll know closer to the date what the story is.

The builder is aware of the problem. One worry is that I may not be there when it happens. They are due to start while we're on holiday to avoid hassles like "not having a functioning toilet". Do you trust your fish to the local tradesman ?

According to the distributors link at the bottom of their homepage the New Zealand distributor is JENLOGIX, http://www.jenlogix.co.nz. They seem to do online ordering. They look like quite useful modules.

Well Caryl, I was going to ressurect the other tank after the renovations anyway. You are right though, if I'm going to ship most of the water anyway why not ship the whole tank (although obviously not as one piece), the only extra weight at that point is the gravel. I think people will be far happier baby-sitting a "complete" tank than an ugly bare-bones one. I do (sort-of) belong to the Dunedin Aquarium and Pond Society (two months now). But between their summer break and me missing their next meeting I won't be in contact with anyone for a while. I think I know how to do this now. I would prefer not to move it, but unless the electrician has a really bright idea I don't see being able to keep it where it is for the moment.

Two problems with those suggestions: Firstly the filter on the current setup isn't removable (one of those integrated into the hood kind, convenient, but not flexible). Although the filter wool, carbon, and the ceramic noodles can easily be removed, I suppose I could rig something up as an additional "temporary filter". Secondly the temporary tank is bigger (by nearly a factor of two I think, I haven't seen the tank in eight years) than the main one, so I can't fill it with old water, but I suppose nearly 50% would be better than nothing, but still thats 100L of water to shift. Tricky, but I can see a way to do it ... Of course removing all the water makes keeping the plants in position difficult, but I can just refill, they won't care. Thanks.