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Aquarium Conditions Author: Warren Stilwell First published in Aquarium World November 2000 This article is based from experience and many of the insights contained in the book ‘The Optimum Aquarium’ by Kaspar Horst/Horst E. Kipper (ISBN3-925916-02-4). This book is a wealth of knowledge for anyone who strives for perfection. Unfortunately this article assumes a certain basic knowledge about water chemistry that might go beyond what some people are willing to research, but do read on anyway, it’s not all like that. One of the most pleasing looking aquariums is that which mimics nature as closely as possible. This can be quite challenging given the limited space and budgets imposed upon us. If we are to expect the best from our hobby and the best for our pets we must aim towards creating this goal. It is however not always practical to try to imitate nature exactly, as in many cases it would be highly unstable. Below details two ways of setting up an aquarium system that will cater for almost all types of fishes. There have been major advances in technology for aquarists over the past few years. Most of these advances are not mentioned in the many books that are available today to help us with our hobby, passion, or obsession. This is due to most of the literature being at least 10 years old, and written by people who have successfully kept fish for many years without this technology. Many of us have less than optimal conditions in our aquariums. This comes about for many reasons. Some of us are too busy. Others do not want the hassle of regular testing and lots of maintenance. In today’s society it seems there is always less and less time available for our hobbies. There is hope however. Much of the new technology available today helps reduce maintenance, and can extend the time between water changes. Alternatively, it can improve water quality in an existing system. These, of course, do come as a financial trade-off, but what doesn’t anymore? All this said however, there is no substitute for regular care of our pets. The Goal: We all want a clean looking aquarium with no or little algae, lots of colourful fish, and no need for water changes. Well, unfortunately this cannot be achieved easily, and water changes will always be required. In nature the ratio of water to fish is millions times what we have in our aquariums. Even if there are 100 fish in a 1m2 area, this is compensated for by 1000 litres per second water change or 100,000 litres of water around them where there are no other fish. These 100 fish in our aquarium must however cope with only 250 litres of water which is recirculated (not changed) maybe 2-5 times per hour. Waste products and unwanted nutrients build up very quickly in a small closed system like this. Typically in smaller tanks the problem is worse, while in larger tanks it is better. Water Chemistry: In nature the water is relatively low in algae producing nutrients. In many areas the water is very soft (1dH or less) with the exception of Africans and a few other specific species. If these conditions were replicated in the aquarium, many things would start to go wrong immediately. Because there are virtually no nutrients in very soft water the PH can change very quickly as the fish waste product builds up. In nature there is stability only because of the massive amount of water volume or water flow. Example: Set up a 100 litre tank and fill with distilled water. Add sodium bicarbonate (Baking Soda) to get a carbonate hardness of 1dH. Add sulphuric acid to adjust the pH to 7.0. 100 litres is quite a lot of water, but you would be surprised to find that is only takes ½ a teaspoon of baking soda to get 1dH carbonate hardness. It also only takes a few drops of acid to bring the pH down to 7.0. If this tank is left covered and sealed in the sun for several weeks, virtually no algae form, and the pH will remain relatively stable. If this tank is then uncovered, gases will dissolve into the water and change the pH. Only a small amount of gas can dissolve however, so the resulting change in pH can be compensated for with either acid, if pH goes up, or baking soda, if pH goes down. After many weeks, a small amount of algae may start to form in the tank. This is due to dirt and dust falling into the now uncovered water. This dissolves and starts to build up a nutrient load. Algae spores also float in the air and land in the tank. Now that there are suitable nutrients and algae spores, algae will start to grow. The quantity of algae however is very small. We now introduce one very small fish, a neon for argument sake. This neon must be fed, which will leave uneaten food to pollute the water. The neon also releases waste products into the water. After 1 day of feeding and waste production from the one tiny fish, there are more nutrients in the water than in weeks of having no fish and the aquarium. Within days algae start to form in significant numbers, and by the end of 2 weeks the glass is covered with thick algae, and the water is green. Also massive pH shifts have occurred that, left unchecked, will kill the fish. All this has happened with only the faintest trace of pollutants in the water. This highlights the problem of keeping fish in a closed system, and indicates the need for some way to clean the water. Setup Types: There are only 3 ways to set up an aquarium so that it is low maintenance and relatively algae free. The first is the easiest, and long term is the cheapest. This is the heavily planted tank with a small fish load. The second is for aquariums that cannot be a plant tank – large cichlids, plant eaters, or African cichlids. The third is to condition the water coming into a tank to the correct pH, hardness and temperature before it enters the tank, and have a continuous water change system that changes the water 1-5 times a day. The third method is often not practical and being self explanatory will not be detailed. Many of the requirements mentioned below are required for both types of aquarium, but type 2 is mentioned first. Setup type 2: Large Cichlids, Plant Eaters, and Africans. Large cichlids continuously disturb the substrate, digging nests, or just digging for fun. Plant eaters are often so voracious that no matter how many plants, and how few fish you have, the plants always lose. Also, this type of fish often seems to delight in biting the plant off near the roots so you find the top 90% floating at the surface. The plant is often then useless, as it will not re-root before dying. African cichlids require water conditions that do not suit plant growth as the water is too hard. There are some plants which will survive but will not grow fast, or well enough, to out-compete the algae. There are of course exceptions to these rules where someone has got lucky with their setup, but that is what it is, luck. This type of setup is often not repeatable on a large scale without significant problems occurring. The only way to be successfully algae free in a plant free tank is by fine mechanical filtration, massive biological filtration, chemical filtration and regular water changes. The water changes must be quite large (at least 50%), and done often (once a week minimum). Massive water flow through the filtration is required also, at least 5 times the tank turnover per hour. The filter must also be large. Basic Setup: It is possible to use an undergravel filter and coarse gravel (4-10mm) for this setup. The only problem which may occur with some species is that they might dig right down to the undergravel plates, rendering this filter almost useless. An external power (trickle is best) is required to get good water conditions. It is only necessary to create a natural looking habitat for the species you wish to keep. Mechanical Filtration: The best success can be achieved using a pleated cartridge filter of 10 to 15 microns. The most common type is used on Spa Pools to remove debris from the water. The purpose of this filter is to remove all small non-dissolved organic matter from the water. This filter is changed every few days. This stops the organic matter from decomposing in the tank or filter system and increasing the nutrient load. Biological Filtration: A large surface area of biological filter is required. This is best in the form of a trickle filter. There are many different types of media available for biological filtration, but the best is usually synthetic media with extremely large surface area (450m2 to 1350m2 per litre of media). This will ensure that all dissolved nitrogen compounds are quickly turned into nitrates. As long as nitrates are low (less than 20ppm) algae will be minimal. In some of the newer synthetic media, anaerobic areas will form that will also help to lower the nitrate level. Water changes are still required, however, to keep nitrates under control. There will be more to come in a special article about filters in the next Aquarium World. Chemical filtration: This is paramount to stop algae forming, and keeping the water clear, sparkling, and to keep unwanted nutrients to a level below the alga threshold. Carbon is good for removed the aged yellow look of the aquarium water, but does little else to stop algae. It does not remove significant phosphate from the water. All organisms require phosphate to survive. It is one of the major building blocks of life. The problem is that you add phosphate to the aquarium regularly in the food. Phosphate absorbing resins are the best solution to lowering the level to that required. Water changes: Water changes are 100% essential. The time between water changes is much too long in many cases. The regularity will largely depend on the size of the filter, number of fish and the size of the tank. It may be possible to skip changing the water in an aquarium for 3 months, but just think how you would feel wearing the same clothes for the same time. Most of the successful breeders in the world do daily or even twice daily water changes of up to 90%. Your fish will appreciate the maximum amount of water change you can possibly do. This does not mean changing 90% every day, but it is amazing what 10% a day can produce. However, many tap water supplies around the country are rich in phosphate, and many brands of activated carbon release a small level of phosphate into the water when first installed in the filter. A 100% phosphate free water source must be used for water changes otherwise the algae are just being fueled. A target level for phosphate in aquarium is below 0.1ppm. If you have a 1000 litre barrel of distilled water, this equates to 0.1 grams of phosphate (about enough calcium phosphate powder to cover your small fingernail). This is a very small amount. Of course, if you are breeding fish in an all glass tank, and can regularly wipe the algae off the glass this is not a problem. It is often not practical to try to remove the phosphate from the water if the amount required is large. Setup Type 1: Planted Aquariums. The planted tank can house a very wide variety of the commonly kept and possibly more popular smaller fish. Many of these fish prefer heavily planted tanks as it is closer to their natural habitat. The setup of a planted Aquarium is very similar to the previously mentioned system. There are some major differences however. The plants in a heavily planted aquarium work as a filter. They use nitrogen waste product from the fish and uneaten food. If the correct ratio of fish to plant is used it is possible to omit certain filter items. Planted tanks require quite soft water, and a pH of 6.5 – 7.0. A good compromise is 6.8. This suits most of the fish that would be kept in this type of aquarium, and is also best for the plants. The most important part of this type of aquarium is the plants, the fish are secondary. Basic Setup: Undergravel filters cannot be used for this setup. Gravel of 2-4mm is best as a substrate. Iron containing additives can be added to the lower layer of the substrate, but it is not essential if regular substrate fertiliser is used. Undergravel heating is also very beneficial. When planting out the aquarium, at least 80% of the aquarium must be covered initially, and no fish added until the plants have settled in (4-6 weeks). Mechanical Filtration: The same mechanical filtration is required, however it can be quite a lot smaller. This is due to a lower waste product load on the system. Much of the collected organic matter will be from dead plants, where it would be uneaten food, and fish waste in the other system. The same requirement for changing the filter exists (4-7 days). The more often this filter is cleaned / changed, the cleaner the aquarium is, and less bio-load there is on other parts of the filter. Biological Filtration: This is also the same. There will be less nitrogen compounds for the filter to process due to the plants however. The filter is a safety mechanism an also helps to provide water circulation. Chemical filtration: This is often not required any more, or maybe occasionally to just take a slight yellowing off the water. The plants are so effective at cleaning up that this type of filtration is seldom needed. If all is set up correctly and relatively balanced, the plants will utilise all the available free phosphate. Fertilisers: Planted aquariums need regular fertilisers. The type of fertiliser will depend on the conditions, fish load, lighting, CO2 and water changes. The nutrients contained in the fertiliser are extremely important as they must benefit the plants, but not promote algae. A good water fertiliser should not contain any phosphate and be rich in iron. A good substrate fertiliser should be rich in iron, and contain some nitrogen and phosphate. In both there should be trace elements in the correct quantities. The objective is to sustain a balance of the correct nutrients, with no one nutrient becoming dominant. This is achieved by regular water changes and the daily addition of fertiliser. The contents of the fertiliser are unfortunately beyond the scope of this article as it would be equally as long is this one. Water changes: Water changes are still required. In this type of system, it is more vital that water changes are done. The previous system will forgive to a greater or lesser degree a missed water change. A planted aquarium will quickly begin to show you when you need to do a change. It is of course better to do a change well before this, as it takes a while to recover from such an event. Regular water changes keep a more constant balance. Other than water, the less you change (pH, hardness (dH and kH), nutrient levels etc) the better of all your aquarium inhabitants will be. Water Chemistry 2: As previously mentioned, it is not practical to try to keep natural conditions in an aquarium. Only when a carbonate hardness of 4dH or greater is sustained will the pH be stable. In an African tank the dH will be much higher anyway. The target is to research the required water chemistry for the species you wish to keep and as best as possible create it with the above exceptions. Happy Fish: If the natural conditions for the species are created, they will be more active, spawn more readily, and grow faster and stronger. To achieve best results a limited number of complementary species should be grouped together, with the ultimate system containing only one species. On the whole, if breeding a specific fish is the target then a single species tank is essential (sometimes 1 or 2 fish of another specific species will be required to initiate spawning). Fish that compliment each other are those that are found I nature living together. It is not practical or wise to put a Neon and an African together for example. Apart from the Neon requiring soft low pH water and the African requiring Hard high pH water, the African will probably also eat the Neon. In many cases incompatible fish are mixed together and while they might survive, they are not at their best. Costs: Setup Type 1 costs a little more to get going because of the large outlay for plants. The long term running costs are much lower however, – fertiliser (that you can make yourself) and mechanical filter cleaning products are the only on going costs. Setup Type 2 is a little less expensive to get going, but has relatively high running costs. The quantities of activated carbon and phosphate resins are quite large. They are also not cheap. The same cost for mechanical filter cleaning product exist. Ways to get Good Water: Good water, – what is it. As previously mentioned, good water has no phosphate, no nitrate, nitrite, or ammonia, and has the correct PH and hardness for the species of fish(es) you keep. To obtain this there are several methods. If your tap water is suitable, use it you are very lucky. It pays however to monitor the quality of your water as it can change from winter to summer as the demand for water changes. Water fed from wells often changes quality depending on the quantity of water drawn from it and what it passes through on the way to your tap. If your water is unsuitable there are several alternatives: Rain water. This is often quite good, but can be too soft for Africans and many harder water species. Care needs to be taken here because pollutants like heavy metals and hydrocarbons can sometimes appear in the rainwater. These are toxic to your fish. Processed tap water. If you can store water in a separate tank and process it with phosphate and ammonia removing resins it is possible to get suitable water. This can also be pre heated to make water changes easier. Reverse Osmosis. RO water is by far the best, but is far too pure to use on its own. It also needs to be stored separately from the tank so it can be conditioned before being used. Salts and trace elements must be added before RO water is suitable. This stabilises the pH also. It too can be preheated. De-Ionised water is as good as RO water, but is often very expensive to produce. It requires the same conditioning as RO water. The above methods (especially RO) may need extra salts and trace elements added to the water before it is suitable for the species of fish it is intended for. The requirements for these salt and trace elements are also beyond the scope of this article, but will be detailed in an article in the next Aquarium World. Summary: The overall aim is to make our fish as happy as possible. This is a challenge that gives us pride in our hobby once we achieve it. There is nothing better than sitting down in front of a good display aquarium to enjoy its beauty and see the occupants behaving as if or almost as if they were in the wild. This is more so when it is your own aquarium. Most of the information you need to set up the correct conditions is in books, and quite often on the internet. Good Books: The Optimum Aquarium (Kaspar Horst / Horst E Kipper) ISBN 3-925916-02-4 This is an excellent reference book that covers planted aquaria. The Biotope Aquarium (Rainer Stawikowski) ISBN 0-86622-519-6 This is an excellent all round book that details the basic habitats of nearly all type of fish. The Natural Aquarium (Satoshi Yoshino and Doshin Kobayashi) ISBN 0-86622-629-X A different book but similar to the Biotope Aquarium. Nature Aquarium World 1,2 and 3 (Takashi Amano) ISBN 0-7938-0089-7 There are three books in this series. There is limited information in them, but it is all good. The emphasis is totally toward the planted aquarium. The photographs are nothing short of incredible. The series gives you examples of many different themes for a planted tank, and once read you will not be able to settle for just one aquarium, you will have to have lots. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission

Kings and Queens – Hypancistrus Authors: Darren Stevens, Firenzenz and Geoff Haglund First published in Aquarium World August 2010 The genus Hypancistrus contains some of the most stunning plecos in the hobby, including the iconic zebra pleco (Hypancistrus zebra), the king tiger pleco (Hypancistrus sp. L066), and the Queen Arabesque pleco (Hypancistrus sp. L260). There are 9 scientifically described Hypancistrus species, and many other varieties awaiting scientific names. Hypo means “less than” in reference to Hypancistrus having fewer teeth than Ancistrus. Hypans look similar to Panaqolus (the genus for the smaller species formerly placed in Panaque e.g. clown plecos and flash plecos) and Peckoltia but can be separated based on their teeth. Panaqolus and Peckoltia have similar numbers of teeth on the upper and lower jaws while Hypancistrus have fewer and much larger teeth on the lower jaw giving them a ‘buck-toothed’ look. Hypans are generally found in slow to moderately flowing water, often in the vicinity of rapids in the Rio Negro, Rio Orinoco and southern Amazonian tributaries. They generally live among rocks or in the crevices between them in waters up to 15 metres deep. Many Brazilian Hypancistrus are banned from export by Brazil’s environmental protection agency, IBAMA, to protect wild populations. Luckily many species have been bred a number of times in captivity, so are likely to remain in the hobby. As with many plecos, hypans are cavespawners. The male guards a cave, entices the female into it, and then traps her until they spawn. Once they’ve spawned the male guards the eggs in the cave until they hatch in 7–10 days. Egg size and numbers vary greatly between species. Hypans live in colonies and a successful breeding setup will often have multiple females. Breeding in captivity is generally triggered by simulating seasonal changes: dropping and raising water temps, increasing water flow, and water changes. Hypans readily interbreed so unless you favour hybrids don’t keep more than one species in the same tank. Hypans are omnivores with most species having a tendency towards meaty foods. As juveniles some species eat more plant material, but as adults they are mainly carnivorous. Feed your hypans on live, frozen, and commercially prepared foods with a good protein content (e.g. NovoTab, carnivore tablets, shrimp pellets, Repashy Bottom Scratcher, shrimps, blackworms, bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, etc.) and try them on a few greens (algal wafers, Repashy Soilent Green, courgettes, etc.) The following Hypancistrus are found in New Zealand although some species are rarely available and expensive. Zebra pleco (Hypancistrus zebra L046) The zebra pleco is one of the most recognisable and iconic plecos in the hobby with its striking broad black and white banding. The white banding has a blue hue to it and they have blue eyes which are rare in plecos. There is a very rare variety, L098, which has black spots in the place of some of the black stripes. A further form, L173, closely resembles H. zebra but has wavy lines, and its status is unresolved. Both varieties are not thought to have been imported into New Zealand. Zebra plecos are a small pleco (to 8 cm SL) suited to medium sized tanks with pH’s of 6.0–7.5 and temperatures of 26–30°C. They originate from the Rio Xingú in Brazil where they were captured in deep water (up to 20 metres) by divers with air supplies. This is risky and has likely resulted in fatalities. Zebra plecos were the first Hypancistrus to be scientifically described and the first species to be banned from export on 1 December 2004. Unfortunately due to illegal collecting they have become very rare in the wild and they are also threatened by the Belo Monte dam which is now complete. Luckily they are regularly bred in captivity so they are likely to remain in the hobby. In New Zealand, zebra plecos were bred in the 1990’s and then numbers dwindled and they became very rare. They were imported relatively recently and bred, although at about $400–500 each they are likely to remain out of the price range of most aquarists. Chocolate zebra pleco (Hypancistrus sp. L270, L307, LDA76) The chocolate zebra pleco is a beautiful small (to about 15 cm SL) caramel coloured pleco covered with broad irregular chocolate bands. They originate from the Rio Curuná, a small river between the Rio Tapajós and the Rio Xingú, in Brazil. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 6.5–7.0 and temperatures of 26–30°C. Chocolate zebras have been bred several times in New Zealand and they are reasonably priced and relatively freely available. Colombian zebra pleco (Hypancistrus debilittera L129) The Colombian zebra pleco is a striking small (to about 7 cm SL) chocolate coloured pleco covered with narrow irregular caramel bands. They originate from the Rio Bita, a tributary of the Rio Orinoco in Colombia. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 6.4–7.6 and temperatures of 24–28°C. Colombian zebras look similar to chocolate zebras, but they are smaller and generally have narrower, more tightly defined, and less wavy caramel bands than chocolate zebras. A second Colombian hypan, the mega clown pleco (Hypancistrus sp. L340, LDA19) may also have been imported. Mega clown plecos are very similar to Colombian zebras but they are more orange coloured and apparently have fewer teeth. Colombian zebras have been bred several times in New Zealand and they are reasonably priced and relatively freely available. King tiger pleco (Hypancistrus sp. L066) The king tiger is a stunning small (males grow to about 15 cm SL, females grow to about 10 cm SL) pale grey to off-white, sometimes yellowish pleco covered with a network of fine dark grey to black scribbles. They originate from the lower Rio Xingú and Rio Tocantins in Brazil. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 5.8–7.0 and temperatures of 26–30°C. King tigers are similar to other co-occurring black scribbled Hypans (L236, L333, L399/L400, etc.) and genetic data suggests they may all belong to a single species complex (Camargo et al., 2013). The L399/L400 variety has also been imported in the past and possibly also the L333 variety. King tigers have been bred several times in New Zealand and they are reasonably priced and relatively freely available. Queen Arabesque pleco (Hypancistrus sp. L260) The Queen Arabesque pleco is a lovely small (to about 12 cm SL) white pleco covered with a network of very fine black scribbles. They originate from the Rio Tapajós in Brazil. Queen Arabs are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 6.4–7.6 and temperatures of 26–30°C. Queen Arabs are regularly imported but expensive in New Zealand. Queen Arabs are very similar to Hypancistrus sp. L411 ‘Monte Dourado’ which may have been imported in the past. They have been bred a few times in New Zealand. If it isn’t squiggly then it is going to be spotty. The other body patterning among hypans is spots – usually light spots on a dark body. Orinoco angel pleco (Hypancistrus sp. L201) The Orinoco angel pleco is a stunning small (to 12 cm SL) dark brown to black pleco covered with large white or yellowish spots. They originate from the upper Rio Orinoco and are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 6.5–7.5 and temperatures of 26–30°C. Orinoco angels are often confused with another Orinoco hypan, the Orinoco polka-dot-pleco (Hypancistrus contradens), and they were once thought to be the same species. Hypancistrus contradens generally has larger spots and it is a larger and more robust species than H. sp. L201. Orinoco angels have been bred a few times in New Zealand and are occasionally imported but are relatively rare. Demini pleco (Hypancistrus sp. L136a-c, LDA05, LDA06) The Demini pleco is a beautiful small (to 11 cm SL) brown pleco covered with very fine to larger off white spots. In body shape and size it is very close to L046, as opposed to the bigger L066, L260, and L270. They originate from the Rio Demini in northern Brazil. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 6.5–7.0 and temperatures of 25–29°C. Demini plecos were bred once several years ago in New Zealand and have since become very rare. There are other Hypancistrus that are occasionally imported in small numbers including H. furunculus which looks similar to L270, Hypancistrus sp. L262 which looks like a finely spotted Queen Arabesque pleco (L260), and the snowball pleco (H. inspector, L102). Snowball plecos (L102) are similar to Orinoco angel plecos (L201) but they have finer spots on the head, often a black edge to the dorsal and caudal fins, and the spots on the upper lobe of the tail combine to form bands. The common name ‘Snowball’ is often confused with ‘Snowflake’, which is common name for Baryancistrus sp. L142 – a good example where the use of common names without corresponding scientific names can lead to confusion, or worse as these two “snows” wouldn’t make good tank mates. A further variety, the black phantasm, Hypancistrus sp. L501, is very similar to the snowball pleco (L102) and may also have been imported. Compared to many fancy plecos, hypans are relatively easy to breed, and combined with their good looks and small size they are a popular choice for fish keepers. However, some hypans are very rare in New Zealand, and unless they are bred or more species are added to the approved import list, some species will die out in New Zealand. Recently the zebra pleco, Colombian zebra pleco, and the Queen Arabesque pleco were added to the approved import list. References: Planet catfish (www.planetcatfish.com) Wikipedia (en.wikipedia.org) Jonathan Armbrusters Loricariidae website (http://www.auburn.edu/academic/science math/res_area/ loricariid/fish_key/lorhome/index.html) Armbruster, J.W. (2002). Hypancistrus inspector: A New Species of Suckermouth Armoured Catfish (Loricariidae: Ancistrinae). Copeia 2002(1): 86–92. Armbruster, J.W.; Lujan, N.K.; Taphorn, D.C. (2007). Four New Hypancistrus (Siluriformes: Loricariidae) from Amazonas, Venezuela. Copeia 2007(1): 62–79. Camargo, M.; Gimenes, H. Jnr.; Melo De Sousa, L.; Rapp Py-Daniel, L. (2013). Loricariids of the Middle Rio Xingu – Loricariiden des mittleren Rio Xingu. Panta Rhei, Hannover, Germany. 288 p. Seidel, I. (2008). Back to nature guide to L-Catfishes. Fohrman Aquaristik AB, Sweden. 208 p. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission

Photo by Phoenix44 Author: Bryan Jones, Auckland Fishkeepers Association First published in Aquarium World Magazine November 1988 With this article I hope to encourage FNZAS members to have a try at breeding one of the most popular tropical fishes worldwide – the cardinal tetra, Paracheirodon axelrodi. Cardinals have been spawned in NZ but, to my knowledge, this has not been maintained on a regular basis. From time to time since obtaining my first cardinals about 1960, successes have been obtained in my fish room but not continually such as with other tetras including neons, rummy-noses etc. The cardinal tetra was introduced to aquarists in the late 1950’s and was considered to be the most strikingly coloured freshwater fish since the arrival of the neon tetra in the 1930’s. A large school of cardinals in a suitably aquascaped aquarium is a stunning sight, particularly if attention is given to subdued lighting, dark substrate and quality water. Cardinals are frequently available in many NZ retail petshops, usually priced from $5 – $10, and are virtually all from wild caught stock. They are not a cheap fish compared to, say, the neon tetra at $1.50 – $2.50 each. This is probably why many NZ aquariums, although displaying a few cardinals, seldom house a large school of 50 – 100 which would give a much more visual impact. The main reason for this is cost, as the hopes of commercial aquaculture breeders overseas to mass produce cardinals following their introduction has not, to date, been achieved – unlike what has been done by the Chinese in rural Hong Kong with the many millions, per annum, of neon tetras bred for the world markets. Following the discovery of cardinals by Dr Harold Sioli in Sept. 1952, near Sao Filippe in the Rio Negro region, wild caught cardinals supply the world markets. Many millions are exported from Brazil, and to a lesser degree Colombia, each year (40,000,000 in 1996). This is an important income earner for the local populace centred around Barcellos on the Rio Negro, 386kms upstream from Manaus, where most are flown overseas to world markets. There is concern that a large number of cardinals captured do not survive the first stages of export (up to 50 million PA) and efforts are now being made to reduce such losses. Further more, due to the large demand for this species (which is the highest exported ornamental fish by far from Brazil) they are getting harder to catch. What took one day some years ago, now takes one week for the same number, and the fishermen must travel further afield. There are concerns that more attention must be made to control the fishery, which could mean a limit on volumes taken and closed collection periods, to protect cardinal exports in the future. For the intending breeder of this fish, a study of the bio type is of interest. Cardinals do not habit the main Rio Negro river or its tributaries but rather their source in dense forests and swamplands. In the rainy season, December to March, when many waterways and lowlands become flooded, cardinals move further upstream over areas that were dry, or at best only swampland, in the drier months. This is the time when cardinals breed, stimulated by fresher water, extra food availability, and temperature changes. A common myth is that cardinals breed in water that is dark brown and very peaty with low acid readings more relevant to the water found in main rivers in the dry season. The water, however, at all times in this area is very soft due to soils having the lowest mineral content in the world. The water during the heavy rainy season, when the cardinals breed, is therefore further softened and acidity diluted as shown in low hardness and conductivity readings. Another factor to be noted in this bio type is that cardinals are found only in dark and shaded waters away from sunlight and they have a distinct dislike of strong light. If you are interested in producing, say, 500 cardinals, now is the time to purchase some breeding stock. About 20 will be needed and should be young imported fish, not old fish from established aquariums. Set up a 60 x 30 x 30cm aquarium with a black painted bottom, back and sides, subdued lighting, and soft water. Use no substrate which could harden the water. Plants can be kept held down with waterlogged driftwood. A plastic box type filter is appropriate using glass wool and a little peat to slightly acidify the water but provide water changes as needed to keep the conductivity low ie Below 200 micro-siemens. A varied diet is needed including daphnia, white and blood worms, and particularly brine shrimps, to bring our growing cardinals into breeding condition. Consider setting up a sea monkey tank to provide larger brine shrimp adults for your breeding stock. I have a 45 x 23 x 23cm tank sitting on a window sill in the fish room containing salt water of .130 specific gravity and provided with strong aeration. The shrimps grow to about 1cm in a month if fed on a yeast and water solution which I keep in a plastic 1litre lemonade bottle. Feed a little regularly only when the salt water tank clears by the shrimp eating the food. As we will be testing the hardness and pH values of our water conditions, I would suggest the purchase, or acquisition, of a conductivity and pH meter. I have one of each which I use for quick and accurate tests when required. Raising the FryWith a lot of tetras, obtaining the eggs is the easiest part. Raising large numbers of fry is the real challenge! After 5 days, and not before, remove the covers and check for results; either with a torch, or place the tank on a shelf with light from behind. If all has gone well, we can see small fry shooting around the bottom edges of the tank and through the peat fibre. There will be many more hiding in the peat so don’t think that sighting only a small number is necessarily a poor result. At day 6, when their yolk sacs are used up, they should be free swimming and must be fed. Use a magnifying glass to check if the fry are actually swimming, rather than just hopping about while still having some yolk sac left. Water temperature will have an effect on this time as a higher temperature will shorten the hatching process. This is a critical stage when many, or all, of the fry can be lost due to starvation, feeding too late, too soon, or too much resulting in sudden water pollution. Cardinal tetra fry can take brine shrimp from day 1 as long as it is the right sort. San Francisco Bay brine shrimp eggs are the ones to use as these are significantly smaller than the Great Salt Lake, Utah, eggs. SF Bay eggs are in demand by the aquaculture industry world wide, mainly for marine and shrimp aquaculture, ahead of the freshwater hobbyist. Don’t be fooled by packets sold as San Fransisco Bay BRAND and other labels without checking the source of supply. You will find that they ‘originate’ in Utah ie. The larger eggs. The shrimp to feed our cardinal fry on days 1 – 4 must be ‘just hatched’ not 12 hours or more after hatching as they will have grown to a large size and are too big for the little mouths to take. Use clean sea salt water and position jars in a sunny and warm place, providing strong aeration, to get a good brine shrimp hatch. Feed fry morning and late afternoon, but only small amounts. Use an eyedropper measuring a drop or two into a glass of water to inspect the volume of shrimp before carefully adding to our fry tank. After half an hour, check that the fry have orange bellies; If so, we are over the hard bit unless we get slack and overfeed with brine shrimp which will pollute the water. If there are signs of orange shrimp on the peat, you are overfeeding. After 4 days use any brine shrimp, and microworms, if available. After 4 or 5 days commence removing, and adding, small amounts of matured water at the same temperature and conductivity each few days to raise the tank level up to 20cm. I have a 15mm diameter plastic tube siphon which has a bulb shaped gauze end wrapped with a piece of nylon stocking for these jobs. The nylon is too fine for fry to be sucked up but inspect it for holes regularly. After 2 weeks, and when there is sufficient water height, add a small sponge type filter which will help keep the water in top condition. From the 3rd or 4th week the fry should be swimming clear of the peat and start to show some colour and hopefully we have produced +100 young cardinals. Subsequent spawning from our breeding stock should produce higher numbers. Don’t try to separate fry from the peat until they are over 10mm. Careful use of a larger plastic siphon, to remove peat and water from one end of the tank, is probably the best method. Check the contents after it has settled for any fry inadvertently picked up, and catch these with a small net. When moving fry around to larger growing tanks, ensure the water quality and values are similar using your conductivity meter. Young fish do not take kindly to sudden changes and our hard earned labours can result in heavy losses. Always balance the water when moving from one tank to another. Keep a record of details of your fish breeding attempts as they can be useful in the future. At the end of this article is a copy of the form I have used on occasion and may be of assistance. I wish every success to those of you who are going to give breeding cardinal tetras a go. I look forward to reading in the Aquarium World listings from the breeding co-ordinator of the beautiful cardinal tetras being recorded on many occasions. Who knows when the wild supply will be fished out or restricted by price (or whatever other reasons) to the NZ hobbyist. Breeding MethodsWhen your cardinals have grown to adult size, 30 – 35mm, and about a year old, the fish will need to be sexed and placed in separate aquariums, or separate your growing aquarium with a glass partition. The females must be heavy with roe; hold them in a net up to the light and you will see eggs in the body cavity. Males have a thin, pointed cavity and a slimmer profile. In the meantime, whilst you are feeding your split breeders, set up the breeding tanks. I use 45 x 23 x 23cm glass tanks which are sterilised with potassium permanganate (KMnO4) – including airstones, tubes, cover glass etc. I would suggest setting up three tanks, so that we can increase our chances of a hit, or maybe to six tanks if you are the determined type like me and want results. For the substrate and egg catchment, I use peat moss that has been water logged for some months and then boiled up to achieve sterilisation. The cooled peat can then be spread into the breeding tanks to a depth of 2cm. Previously collected and matured rain water, with a conductivity of 20–60 micro-siemens, is then added slowly through a small plastic tube, to avoid stirring up the peat, to give a depth of 12cm. Leave the tanks in a dark place with cover glass on, and very slight aeration, for 2 weeks. The water should now be clear with a slight brownish tinge but the conductivity should not have changed more than a degree or two. The peat will provide a natural substrate and hiding place for the eggs; act as a bacterial reducing agent, and will slightly lower the pH value of our rain water. A pH value of 6.5 – 6.6 is about right. I do not use nylon mops or plant. Concerning temperature, for those of you who do not have a heated fishroom, we need to aim for a water temperature in the high 70’sF (26º – 27ºC). The problem with having a glass heating element in the spawning tanks is that they will burn small hatched fry if they hide and settle on the heater. Better to use heating pads, as discussed in a recent Aquarium World article. To keep tanks in subdued light, I wrap them in black polythene with a window strip cut out in the front to about halfway down to observe for any eggs. I introduce two females and two males to each tank hoping that at least one will drop her eggs, which is usually after the third day. Cardinals take some time to settle down to new surroundings and the peat substrate and masked sides of the tanks will help with this objective. Community spawns have been achieved but this can result in smaller numbers due to other fish using the occasion for an egg feast. Fertile eggs are clear and non-adhesive. Cardinals spawn at night, so look for the odd white unfertilised egg or two on the peat each morning with the quick use of a torch and eye glass. Do not feed the fish in the spawning tank. If you see the odd white egg, your cardinals have spawned and many eggs will be hidden in the peat, especially round the edges of the tank. Carefully remove the adults and cover the tank completely to block out all light. After the spawning, I add 5 drops of 5% Methylene Blue to help sterilise the water from bacterial growth. The female fishes which spawned should be a bit slimmer and are the ones to keep identified in a separate holding area. These fish, if well fed, will breed again in about 14 days. As with other tetras, it is essential to regularly spawn these young, breeding females to allow for continuing egg production and not to stagnate and harden the eggs in the ovaries of unmated females. Better numerical results of fry are achieved after one or two spawnings. I have bred cardinals without peat substrate using 3mm stainless steel mesh grills to protect falling eggs from hungry parents. You will need to hold rain water in a large plastic container with the peat bagged in a nylon stocking which is hung in the water for a month or two. When the water is clear, with a brownish tinge, the pH about 6.5 and conductivity 20–60 micro-siemens, set up your breeding tanks as before. I, however, prefer to use the peat method, despite separation problems with the young fry later, as the peat is a more natural substrate and tends to relax breeders more than in a bare tank. Some points which I consider facilitate success; My best results have been during hot summer months when day temperatures in the fish room were over 26ºC. Full moon periods when spawnings resulted have been noted. Consider the use of a very low wattage light overnight, some distance away from your breeding tanks, to simulate moonlight. The use of slightly older male fish that may have bred before seem to be better drivers of younger, virgin females. If no eggs are seen after 7 days, remove the adults and return them to the holding tanks for further conditioning. Try again after a few weeks. Try replacing most of the water with matured rain water and next time use different fish, ensuring the females are full of roe. ©This item may not be reproduced without written permission

Going native opens up a whole new range of species, communities and aquarium styles to the fish keeper. Some of the fish may seem familiar – anyone who knows gobies or triplefins will instantly recognise the native bullies – while other species are totally unique. The different habitats that these fish occur in leads to entirely new aquascapes or biotope options. Furthermore, the aquarium keeper can actually visit the streams that these fish live in, catch the fish themselves and even model their aquarium on distinct areas of specific streams. The most immediate difference from the usual aquarium is that a native aquarium has no plants. For a biotope aquarium, plants are not used simply because native aquatic plants are absent from most waterways. The heavy forest shading or high flows of New Zealand waterways prevents the plants from establishing. Those that do attempt to use plants soon discover that there aren’t any native algae-eaters to keep them clean and crayfish will uproot or eat most plants. Wood, leaves and ponga fronds can be used instead of plants to provide textural variation. The best tank shape for a native aquarium is long, low and wide. Water depth is not important as most species are found in shallow streams and the edges of rivers. However, ground area is very important for those that spend most of their time on the substrate, while aquarium length is important for larger species and the flighty schooling fish. The aquarium should also be constructed so that the fish cannot jump or climb out (yes, some can climb!). A well-fitting hood, tight lids or European bracing is a must. Most of our native species are somewhat secretive and need hiding places. Others use the caves as territories, while those that rarely hide appreciate having the caves available for when they do. It goes against what you would expect, but the more hiding places available, the more the fish will be seen, since they feel secure and able easily to dart to safety from any point in the aquarium. Similarly, lower lighting levels help the fish to feel more secure, and also looks far more natural. One feature which is not so visible but it absolutely critical to the success of a native freshwater aquarium is keeping the water cold. This is usually not such a problem over winter, but it can be a big problem in summer. Most fish start to stress in water above 18°C, and the aquarist should become stressed if the aquarium gets above 20°C. Short term temperature spikes can kill by lowering the oxygen, while long term elevated temperatures or fluctuations can affect the fishes’ immune system, leading to disease outbreaks. Stopping the aquarium from becoming warm in the first place is far more effective than trying to remove the heat from it. Ensure the aquarium is in a cool and well-ventilated room to begin with, and insulate the non-viewing sides with polystyrene. Use cool, low-wattage lights (preferably LED) and remember that every pump will be adding heat directly to the water, so choose filtration and flow equipment carefully. A much larger volume of water will have a more stable temperature and water quality than a small aquarium, which can be achieved by expanding the total volume of water, by plumbing in a plastic drum or water tank. For actually cooling the water, a fan aimed at the water surface can help through evaporative cooling, and frozen bottles are handy but laborious, while a chiller is the most effective but also the most expensive. Basic Requirements Cold water – not just room temperature, these fish like it cold. Clean water – weekly partial water changes are a must. Healthy water means healthy fish. Lids – all native fish can climb or jump out, even through tiny gaps. Large ground area – horizontal space is far more important to these fish over vertical depth. Hiding places – it seems counter-intuitive, but the more hiding places available the safer they feel, so they come out more. Carnivorous diet – live invertebrate foods are best, though ox heart with the fat removed is a convenient option. Ethical collection – they are wild animals, native to New Zealand, and most are in decline. This must be borne in mind at all times. Knowledge – really, this is the most important bit. The more you know the more successful you will be at fish-keeping. Don’t stop reading, searching and asking. There are many books, websites and forums out there on general aquarium keeping, and Stella McQueen and R. M. McDowall’s books and articles are essential reading for anyone interested in native fish. Native fish species for the Aquarium Bullies are really easy to keep and are endlessly entertaining with their territorial behaviours and ability to spawn in the aquarium. These remain my favourite native aquarium fish. They live on and around the substrate, buzzing in and out of rocky crevices and chasing away intruders. They readily spawn in the aquarium. Most grow to around 9 to 10 cm on average, with the smallest species only attaining around 6 cm and the largest capable of reaching over 20 cm. Inanga are the most common whitebait species. They grow up to be a slender 8-12cm translucent fish with a silver abdomen, spotted back and occasional flashes of iridescence. They are a very fast-swimming, mid-water shoaling fish, so are best kept in a long tank and in groups. Banded kōkopu are another whitebait species, only these grow up to be a fat 20cm fish, and are earthy brown with thin amber stripes. They like a darker, slow-flowing aquarium with large crevices behind rocks or wood to sleep in or lurk behind. They can be a very active and sometimes aggressive fish, with feeding time being a splashy frenzy and often becoming aggressive during the testosterone-fuelled teenage years (2-3 years old). Small kōkopu play well with others but larger ones may need to be separated. Kōaro are another whitebait species. Kōaro live in clear, cold and fast-flowing upland or mountain streams and are expert at climbing waterfalls to access these habitats. They are large like the banded kōkopu, typically growing to 16-18 cm, and are a speckled silver-grey. Torrentfish live in very fast flowing, shallow water, hiding under the stones and moving into the quieter areas at night to feed. They are a beautiful although shy aquarium fish and are very sensitive to raised temperatures or poor quality water. They grow to around 13cm and are not aggressive with other fish. An effective cooling system is critical for this species. Eels are secretive nocturnal predators. In an aquarium they may hide most of the time (especially when small), or sit very still out in the open. They are escape artists. Smelt are a silvery, schooling fish with a very distinctive cucumber smell. In the early stages of capture and acclimation they are unfortunately very prone death through stress. Usually those that survive the initial period will live for several years in the aquarium. Keeping them very cool during this period is helpful. Mudfish are a specialist wetland species, able to survive the wetlands drying out over summer by finding damp places under logs and simply waiting for the water to return. They can spend several months out of water as long as they remain damp. Mudfish are under threat due to the extensive and ongoing destruction of their wetland habitats. Only the brown and black mudfish should be considered as they are less threatened. A mudfish aquarium is very easy to look after and is an excellent public educational tool. Brown mudfish - This mudfish aquarium has a thick peat substrate overlaid with dense leaf litter, hiding large pieces of wood which the mudfish burrow under. This is the easiest aquarium to maintain. Filters cannot be used as the peat would clog them, but the natural bacterial colonies in the peat ensure excellent water quality. Gravel vacuums cannot be used, so water changes are simple drain-and-fill operations. Periodically the leaf litter needs to be replaced and the peat probed to release gas pockets. Crayfish/koura are not a fish but they are a fascinating addition to the native aquarium or make a good pet on their own. They can be very aggressive and should not be kept with other crayfish or fish smaller than themselves, particularly the ground-dwelling bullies. They need plenty of hiding places and a varied diet of vegetables and insects or ox-heart. They grow by shedding their shells – the first time you see a recently shed shell you will probably think your cray has died. They will eat the shell over the following week to recycle the calcium. Freshwater mussels/kākahi are frequently sold in pet shops as a living filter, as they feed on particles and microorganisms that they filter from the water. However, it is extremely difficult to provide enough food in an aquarium for them and most will slowly starve to death over a period of months. Mussels are also in severe decline in the wild due to a combination of declining water quality and lack of recruitment of juvenile mussels. As such, mussels should be avoided. There are many more species of native fish beyond those listed here. Some have naturally very narrow geographical ranges making them less practical for most people to find. Others are much harder to find as they are sparse in many regions or the species is nationally threatened. Some have only been identified as separate species in recent years and little is known about the population status or habits. As always, please research your area before you go hunting and avoid taking any species from the wild that may be nationally or locally threatened, or if you are uncertain of their requirements. adult length (average) position hiding places aggression aquarium type bullies 9-10 cm ground important spawning season mainly any (excl. wetland) inanga 8-11 cm mid-water occasional none lake, forest, coastal banded kōkopu 20 cm all important age 2-3 years and older forest kōaro 16-18 cm ground important a few can be really nasty riffle torrentfish 10-13 cm ground important none riffle eels up to 2m all important sometimes any (excl. wetland) smelt 9-11 cm mid-water occasional none lake, forest, coastal mudfish 10 cm ground important none wetland koura 7-10 cm ground important keep singly any (excl. wetland) Types of Aquaria The most successful aquaria are built around a particular theme. It will look more cohesive and will be easier to look after as all the fish species have similar requirements. You may wish to showcase your favourite fish species or a particular habitat type, such as that found in your favourite stream. From that foundation, explore the habitat characteristics of that species or stream and associated fish species. Below are some examples of habitat-based aquaria and the species and construction elements typical of them. Forest stream Banded kōkopu, bullies, inanga, smelt, eels, crayfish, Rock/gravel/sand substrate, wood, ponga fronds, leaf litter Tannined water Current is not important Floating plants Forest Stream - Natural environments are rarely pristine, and allowing algae to build up on interior surfaces helps to give the aquarium an aged and earthy feel, especially relevant when trying to replicate a forest stream. The algae looks entirely on purpose when the viewing panes are kept clean. Forest Stream - The textures of wood, rock and pong a gives variety and depth to this forest stream aquarium. The ponga has the added effect of making the aquarium immediately appearing native, even to those who wouldn’t recognise the fish. Fresh ponga leaves take a few months to turn brown when submerged, and will remain intact for around six months, depending on how gently they are treated during tank maintenance. Riffle Torrentfish, kōaro, bluegill bullies Rock/gravel substrate Clear water Strong current No plants or wood, very clean rocks Riffle - This riffle aquarium contains an astonishing amount of rocks and gravel. Wood and plants would be washed away in the fast-flowing habitat it is replicating. It looks still but the water is being blasted around by two 3200L/hr pumps, providing variable currents around the aquarium allowing the different riffle species to divide their time between surfing the waves and sheltering from the storm Lake Smelt, non-migratory bullies, eels, crayfish Fine pebble and sandy substrate Minimal current Emergent reeds, nitella, floating plants Native aquatic plants (if there are no crayfish) Coastal stream Specifically giant bullies. Also other bullies, inanga, smelt, eels, crayfish, shrimp Sand and pebbles, driftwood Current is not important Aquatic plants and emergent reeds (if there are no crayfish) Lowland - This simple aquarium evoking a coastal stream and featuring a sandy substrate, few scattered pebbles, plastic ‘rushes’ and a collection of kawakawa branches acting as submerged tree roots, was home to several bullies and a small school of inanga. Wetland Mudfish only Peat, dense leaf litter, wood No water flow Nitella and floating plants Conservation and Ethics Conservation must always be of utmost importance when taking native animals from their natural environment, especially when the wild populations may be threatened or undergoing gradual human-induced decline. Many of these fish are threatened by habitat destruction and degradation. This includes not only the direct piped pollution of rivers, but also the loss of bankside vegetation and forest cover, drainage of wetlands, agricultural nutrient run-off, stock grazing at the water's edge and the construction of dams, weirs or culverts. Introduced species, such as trout (Salmonidae spp.) and mosquitofish (Gambusia affinis), not only compete with native fish for habitat but are known to eat them. It is important to know not only the national threat classification of a species, but also its local population status. A species that is fairly widespread and nationally common, may also be locally rare or threatened. It is preferable that only juveniles are taken. Young fish not only adapt much easier to the aquarium, but also their disappearance generally has less of an impact on the remaining population. While it is great fun catching the biggest fish in a stream, be impressed at their survival and then leave them behind to help ensure the continuation of the species. It is important not to take more fish than you can comfortably house and have the dedication to care for. Take care when considering the release of fish that have had an exclusively non-live or commercial diet, or that have been in captivity for most of their life, as they may struggle to readjust. A diseased fish must never be released into the wild, even if the disease is present in wild populations. Legalities As these are native animals there are laws restricting what you may and may not do with them. Unfortunately these laws were developed in a very ad hoc manner over time. Different aspects are covered by different laws and government departments, sometimes several in conjunction. In some instances old laws were not repealed when a new one was enacted. Advice received from the Department of Conservation (DOC) suggests these general guidelines: A permit is not required to keep native fish and crayfish in aquaria. There are restrictions on taking aquatic life from conservation lands (national parks and reserves etc) and this requires a permit from DOC. Whitebait may only be taken in accordance with whitebaiting regulations (pamphlets outlining these are readily available from DOC offices or on their website). Anyone may take eels for non-commercial purposes, within the daily bag limit of 6. Anyone may take freshwater crayfish for non-commercial purposes, within the daily bag limit of 50. Black flounder are part of the managed commercial and recreational flatfish fishery and there are regulations which apply to anyone taking these fish for any reason, including the home aquarist. Both the minimum legal size and the cost of a permit to take undersized fish basically excludes this species from aquaria. Only the local iwi may take crayfish or native fish from the Lake Taupo or Lake Rotoaria catchments. A permit is required to release a native fish into a waterway, even if it came from there originally. This is partly to prevent the introduction or spread of disease. This permit can be obtained from the fisheries division of the Ministry of Primary Industries (MPI). A permit is required to transfer aquatic life (fish, plants, invertebrates etc) from one natural waterway to another. If the species does not exist in the recipient waterway DOC permission is required. If it does already exist there, approval is required from MPI. Moving aquatic life between the North and South Islands requires approval from both the MPI and DOC. Licenses are required for the farming or sale of native fish and crayfish, for food or the pet trade. However any person may sell legally-caught whitebait. This is a very basic and generalised guideline and should not be considered as legal advice. For further information please contact your local DOC office. Remember the laws are not there purely to restrict private ownership and commercial activity, but to ensure the survival of the species and their natural distribution and local genetic variations. They should be adhered to for conservation concerns as much as, if not more so, than simply not breaking the law. While some of the laws sound minor or picky, they are enforced. Recommended Reading Books Coffey, B.T. & Clayton, J.S. (1988). New Zealand Waterplants: A Guide to Plants Found in New Zealand. Hamilton, Ruakura Agriculture Centre. Jones, J. (2005). New Zealand Wild: Freshwater Eels. Auckland, Reed. 40pp (this is a children's book but an excellent introduction to native eels) McDowall, R.M. (1990). New Zealand Freshwater Fishes; A Natural History and Guide. Auckland, Heineman Reed. 553pp. McDowall, R.M. (2000). The Reed Field Guide to New Zealand Freshwater Fishes. Auckland, Reed. 224pp. McQueen, S.L. (2010). The New Zealand Native Aquarium. Palmerston North, Wet Sock Publications. 126pp. McQueen, S. & Morris, R. (2013). A Photographic Guide To Freshwater Fishes of New Zealand. Auckland, New Holland. 143pp Websites New Zealand Native Fish – Facebook page www.facebook.com/nznativefish A Facebook page devoted to sharing articles and research relating to native fish, and the fishy photos and experiences of Stella McQueen working in the field. Te Ara: Encyclopaedia of New Zealand, Freshwater Fish Section http://www.teara.govt.nz/en/freshwater-fish Some good basic introductions for many native fish. The photographs are amazing and there are also some incredible short videos. NIWA Fish Atlas http://www.niwa.co.nz/freshwater-and-estuaries/nzffd/NIWA-fish-atlas Very useful overviews of all New Zealand freshwater fish, including introduced species. The distribution maps are invaluable. NIWA Quick-Guides to Freshwater Flora and Fauna http://www.niwa.co.nz/freshwater-and-estuaries/management-tools/identification-guides-and-fact-sheets A fascinating set of flow-charts for identifying different aquatic organisms, including invertebrates, fish, plants and algae. More aimed at the scientist than the layman, and the fish are based on dead specimens, but fascinating nonetheless Crayfish World www.crayfishworld.com/contents.htm An Australian site and therefore focused on Australian species, but it does contain some interesting information and photographs, particularly the pages about moulting, sexing and reproduction. There is quite a trade in crayfish species for the aquarium market in different parts of the world. While these sites tend not to include our native crayfish, much useful information may be gleaned about crayfish in general. Waitakere Regional Council www.waitakere.govt.nz/abtcit/ei/ecowtr/frshwtrfsh/frshwater-fish.asp The usual brief descriptions of the common species, but also includes several short videos and unique photographs of a few species. YouTube Videos www.youtube.com/nznativefish Some of my videos of native fish in the wild and in aquaria. Useful Scientific Papers Online Observations on Growth and Behaviour of Galaxiidae in Aquaria www.nzetc.org/tm/scholarly/tei-Bio17Tuat01-t1-body-d6.html A very interesting article by freshwater fish scientist G.A. Eldon detailing his experiences keeping various galaxiids. Taking the fish to the people https://www.academia.edu/1421445/Taking_the_Fish_to_the_People_-_a_guide_to_creating_successful_public_native_aquaria A guide to designing a successful native aquarium for public display and education. Written as an adjunct to the book The New Zealand Native Freshwater Aquarium by Stella McQueen. Conservation status of New Zealand freshwater fish, 2013. http://doc.govt.nz/Documents/science-and-technical/nztcs7entire.pdf The latest threat classification of freshwater fishes in New Zealand. S L McQueen

The Canoe Eaters – Panaques (and Panaqolus) Author: Darren Stevens First published in Aquarium World February 2009 The delightful wood-eating Panaques are named after the Venezuelan name for plecostomus. They are also known as canoe eaters in their home waters because of their occasional habit of chewing holes in wooden canoes. There has been some debate over the naming of the smaller species. In 2003 the German aquarist magazine DATZ, proposed the scientific name Panaqolus to group the small species. Initially this new grouping was not widely adopted, however it now seems to have gained scientific acceptance. To date there are 7 scientifically described Panaque species and 12 Panaqolus species and many more awaiting a scientific name. Panaqolus tend to be relatively small with most species growing from 10 to 13 cm, while their larger Panaque relies often grow to 30-40 cm and the titanic pleco (Panaque schaeferi, L203) grows to at least 70 cm. Both groupings are thought to be closely related to Peckoltia (e.g. candy striped pleco,Peckoltia vittata, L015) and Scobinancistrus (e.g. goldie pleco, Scobinancistrus aureatus, L014). Panaque and Panaqolus species are widespread in South America and are found in the Amazon, Orinoco, and Magdalena river systems, the Essequibo drainage, and the Maracaibo basin. These waterways are relatively fast flowing, particularly during the rainy season. Plecos, including Panaques and Panaqolusspecies, are often found in the shallows among tree roots and log piles up against the riverbanks. Panaques and Panaqolus species both feed mostly on wood and algae in the wild. They are highly specialised feeders and along with a few other plecos are the only known fish that are able to consume and digest wood. They have unique spoon-shaped teeth to chisel wood (and to scrape algae), specialised gut bacteria to enable them to digest it, and a very long intestine to aid digestion (about 8 times the length of the fish). So it is not surprising that wood is regarded as essential part of their diet. Panaqolus species are relatively hardy, undemanding, and generally peaceful, although adult males are territorial and do squabble. Given their small adult size they are suitable for community tanks, but they do need plenty of cover, in particular bogwood. They like feeding on plants and as such are not always suitable for heavily planted tanks. Panaques grow a lot larger and need plenty of space and can be difficult to keep together. If you are thinking of keeping a few Panaqolus or one of the larger Panaquesyou will need good filtration and regular water changes as their fondness for devouring wood means they deposit a lot of “top soil”. They also appreciate good water flow and high dissolved oxygen levels. Along with bogwood (ideally provide both soft and hardwoods), feed your Panagolus and Panaques on pleco algae wafers (there a few brands), and a variety of veggies. Most people feed them on courgettes and cucumber, but also try other veggies such as peas, silverbeet, spinach, yams, kumara, etc. Sometimes they take a while to get used to a new veggie so try them on it a few times before giving up. Meaty foods such as shrimp, bloodworms, etc. should only be fed occasionally and in small quantities. A protein rich diet may result in the early death of your pleco. Panaqolus and in particular Panaques are difficult to breed. Several species of Panaqolus have been breed in captivity, and there are excellent articles on how to attempt this on Planet Catfish (www.planetcatfish.com). Panaques are very rarely bred, although there occasionally accounts of royal plecos having being bred. As with many plecos, juvenile Panaqolus and Panaques generally have brighter coloration and more strongly marked patterning than adults. In many Panaqolus species, the outermost rays of the tail fin lengthen in larger fish to become whip-like extensions. The following are some of the more commonly available Panaqolus species suitable for relatively small aquaria followed by a large spectacular Panaque species –the Royal pleco. Clown pleco (Panaqolus maccus, Panaqolus aff. maccus, L104, L162, LDA22, L448) Clown plecos are small (to 9 cm standard length or SL – tip of snout to the base of the tail fin) light brown to dark brown fish with white to orange stripes. Colour varies depending on the fishes age and the area from which it was caught. Genetic studies have shown that there are three very similar species of clown pleco, of which only Panaqolus maccus (L104, L162, LDA22) has been formally described. The most commonly available clown pleco in the hobby is L448 from the Rio (river) Orinoco. True clown plecos (Panaqolus maccus) are rarely available in the hobby and the third species, L465, is seldom encountered. Clown plecos originate from the Rio Orinoco drainage in Venezuela and Colombia. Clown plecos are the most affordable and commonly available Panaqolus, selling for around $50 each. They have been imported several times often under the name ‘pretty Peckoltia’. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 6.0–8.0 and temperatures of 25–30. Clown plecos are regarded as the easiest Panaqolus to breed, and L448 has been bred several times in New Zealand. Iquitos tiger pleco (Panaqolus changae, L226, LDA26) The Iquitos tiger pleco is a small (to 10 cm SL) light grey to tan pleco with fine dark grey bands. They originate from the Rios Itaya, Momon, Nanau, and Loretto in eastern Peru. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 5.0–7.0 and temperatures of 25–29oC. This species has been bred a few times in New Zealand but is coming very rare. Flash pleco (Panaqolus albivermis, L204) Flash plecos or Peru striped Panaques are a beautiful little (to 13 cm SL) dark brown pleco covered with thin white to yellowish stripes. They were first introduced into the hobby in 1996 but were only scientifically described in 2013. They originate from the Rio Alejandro on the Andean slopes of Peru. Flash plecos are a very adaptable species and will do well in most community tanks with pH’s of 6.0–8.0 and temperatures of 25–30oC. They have been breed occasionally overseas. ‘Tiger pleco’ (Panaqolus species) There a number of very similar species of small (to 10 cm SL) light orange to light brown plecos with brown stripes. The name tiger pleco is generally used for Panaqolus species L002, apparently the most commonly available ‘tiger pleco’ in the hobby. In New Zealand ‘tiger plecos’ have been sold under several names and L-numbers. It is likely that we have L002 and L169, and possibly L271 in New Zealand. L002 and L169 originate from the Rio Tocantins and Rio Demini respectively in Brazil. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 5.5–7.5 and temperatures of 25–29oC. Tiger plecos have been bred several times in New Zealand and as a result they are often reasonably priced. Royal pleco (Panaque nigrolineatus, L190) The royal pleco is a great option for those with a large tank who want a stunning display fish. They are a large (to about 40 cm SL) light grey pleco covered with dark grey squiggles. Royal plecos are found over a wide area from Colombia and Venezuela to the southern Amazon. There are a number of similar varieties (L027 forms, L191, and L330) throughout their range, which may represent different species. Recently one of these varieties, the goldline royal (Panaque sp. L027 Tapajos) from the Rio Tapajos was scientifically described as a new species, Panaque armbrusteri. Royal plecos are generally peaceful and do well in tanks with pH’s of 6.5–7.5 and temperatures of 24–30oC. However large specimens are territorial and can be aggressive towards other royals. They can also be fussy eaters. Royal plecos have been bred occasionally overseas but with such large fish tank size becomes a major limiting factor. All Brazilian royal plecos are now banned from export by IBAMA, Brazils environmental protection agency. There are other species that are occasionally imported, including the titanic pleco, Panaque schaeferi, L203 (imported as the papa Panaque, Panaque bathyphilus, L090), and the mustard spot pleco (Panaqolus albomaculatus, LDA31). Another Panaque that is worth mentioning is the blue-eyed pleco, Panaque cochliodon, a dark grey to black pleco with electric blue eyes. It comes from the Rio Magdalena in Colombia but unfortunately due to conflict in the area, it has not been available for many years. Small numbers have recently been exported but at up to US$2000 each it is unlikely to reach our shores anytime soon. And finally the bluefin Panaque (L239) resembles a Panaque but is a species of Baryancistrus (B. beggini) and is related to the gold nugget plecos. I would like to thank Firenzenz and Krazy Geoff for their comments and improvements on earlier versions of this article. References: Planet Catfish http://www.planetcatfish.com Plecofanatics http://www.plecofanatics.com Wikipedia http://www.en.wikipedia.org Schraml, E.; Schaefer, F. (2004). Aqualog: Loricariidae All L-Numbers, New 2nd. Edition. A.C.S. Glaser, Germany. 272p. Evers, H-G.; Seidel, I. (2005). Baensch Catfish Atlas Vol 1. Mergus, Germany. 943 p. Seidel, I. (2008). Back to nature guide to L-Catfishes. Fohrman Aquaristik AB, Sweden. 208 p. Lujan, N.K.; Hidalgo, M.; Stewart, D.L. (2010). Revision of Panaque (Panaque), with descriptions of three new species from the Amazon Basin (Siluriformes, Loricariidae). Copeia 2010: 676–704. Lujan, N.K.; Steele, S.; Velasquez, M. (2013). A new distinctively banded species of Panaqolus(Siluriformes: Loricariidae) from the western Amazon Basin in Peru. Zootaxa 3961: 192–198. ©This item may not be reproduced without written permission

Gold Nuggets and Snowflakes – Baryancistrus Author: Darren Stevens First published in Aquarium World May 2009 The genus Baryancistrus contains some of the most striking plecos in the hobby: including the gold nuggets, the snowflake pleco, and the magnum pleco. Bary means heavy in reference to Baryancistrusbeing more heavily built than Ancistrus. There are 6 scientifically described Baryancistrus species, and a few more awaiting a scientific name.Baryancistrus can be separated from most other plecos by having a membrane that usually connects the dorsal (top) fin to the adipose fin (the small knob-like fin in front of the tail). Baryancistrus are generally found in shallow fast flowing waters in the Rios (Rivers) Orinoco and Venturi in Venezuela; and the Rio Tocantins, Rio Tapajós, and the lower Amazon River system in Brazil. These fast flowing areas have a rocky bottom and plecos live in cracks in-between the rocks. The rocks are covered in aufwuchs – a German term for encrusting filamentous algae and the tiny animals living within it (such as insect larvae and small crustaceans). Baryancistrus are specialised aufwuchs feeders. They have 4 large rasping plates (broad rows of teeth) for scraping this aquatic film, a very long intestine, and a small stomach to enable them to digest it. This is a difficult diet to imitate in an aquarium. Luckily they soon adapt to a variety of foods. They should be fed a largely vegetarian diet (algae wafers, courgette, cucumber, shelled peas, lettuce, spinach, etc) and occasional small quantities of high protein foods (blood worms, shrimps, tubifex, etc.). They are also thought to benefit from wood in their diet. As with Panaques, a high protein diet may result in the early death of your pleco. These plecos are not for the faint hearted. They can be highly territorial and vicious when larger, particularly towards their own species, so be careful when introducing another one into your tank. Also keep an eye on a new Baryancistrus to ensure its getting enough to eat, as other fish can out-compete it for food. Baryancistrus are slow growing; however most species can grow to 20+ cm, so they are not suitable for smaller tanks. As with most plecos they appreciate plenty of cover such as rocks and bogwood. They also require very clean water, and appreciate good water flow and lots of aeration. Most species have not been breed in captivity. Gold nuggets (Baryancistrus xanthellus) have been bred occasionally overseas and the bluefin ‘Panaque’ (Baryancistrus beggini) has been bred once in New Zealand and occasionally overseas. The following plecos are the most commonly available and recognisable Baryancistrus in New Zealand. Gold nugget plecos (Baryancistrus xanthellus L018, L085, L177, andBaryancistrus species L081) These stunning black plecos with gold spots and fin margins are justifiably amongst the most popular fancy plecos in the hobby. They require high quality water and plenty of cover and do well in pH’s of 6.5–7.4 and temperatures of 24–28°C. There is one scientifically described species of gold nugget, Baryancistrus xanthellus, which includes two varieties: the regular “medium spot” gold nugget L18/L85, and the queen “large spot” gold nugget L177. The small spot or stardust gold nugget, Baryancistrus species L81 has the finest spots and has yet to be scientifically described. Gold nuggets are found in different areas of the Rio Xingú and one of its tributaries, the Rio Iriri, in Brazil. Gold nugget pleco (Baryancistrus xanthellus L018, L085) This is the commonly available gold nugget and has medium sized spots. This form of Baryancistrus xanthellus has two L-numbers because adult fish have less gold on the fin margins and numerous very small spots, and were originally thought to be a different form (L085). This gold nugget is found around Altamira on the Rio Xingú and grows to 35 cm standard length (tip of snout to the base of the tail fin). Queen (“Big spot”) gold nugget pleco (Baryancistrus xanthellus L177) The queen gold nugget is arguably the most attractive gold nugget. Unlike the more common L018/L085 variety, queen gold nuggets retain reasonably large spots as an adult. Queen gold nuggets are found in the Rio Iriri tributary of the Rio Xingú and grow to 20 cm standard length. They tends to have strongly coloured golden yellow spots and fin margins. Stardust (“Small spot”) gold nugget pleco (Baryancistrus species L081) This is the gold nugget with the fine spots. It is found in the lower Rio Xingú and grows to 18 cm standard length. This form tends to have paler yellow spots and fin margins. Magnum pleco (Baryancistrus chrysolomus L047) Magnum or mango plecos are a greenish to black medium sized pleco (to 28 cm standard length) with yellow to orange fin margins. They originate from the Rio Xingú in Brazil, and are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 6.5–7.5 and temperatures of 26–29°C. Snowflake pleco (Baryancistrus species L142, LDA33) Snowflake or big white spot plecos are a black medium sized pleco (to 25 cm standard length) with large white spots. They originate from the Rio Tapajós rapids in Brazil, and are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 6.0–7.4 and temperatures of 24–28°C Blue-fin Panaque (Baryancistrus beggini, L239) Blue-fin or blue Panaques are a small (to 12cm SL) black pleco with a blue sheen and often an ice blue coloured edge to the dorsal (top) and tail fin. They originate from the Rio Orinoco drainage in Venezuela, and are suited to medium sized tanks with pH’s of 5.5–7.5 and temperatures of 23–29°C. Prior to being scientifically named in 2009, this species was often placed in the genus Ancistrini. They were recently bred in New Zealand (see Planet Catfish Shane’s World article). There are other Baryancistrus that are occasionally imported including Baryancistrus niveatus (L026) and the hi-fin green phantom pleco (L200). Green phantom plecos comprise two very similar looking species: the hi-fin ‘Baryancistrus‘ demantoides and Hemiancistrus subviridis. Hi-fin green phantoms (B. demantoides) don’t fit well into Baryancistrus and may belong in another Genus. Hemiancistrus subviridiswill be covered in another article. Two other Rio Xingú plecos are sometimes wrongly called “flathead gold nuggets”: Hopliancistrus species L017 and Pseudancistrus asurini (L067). These two species are more slender than gold nuggets but they are covered in fine yellow spots and have a yellow margin to their dorsal fins, although only P. asurini(L067) has yellow on the dorsal fin margin. I would like to thank Firenzenz and Krazy Geoff for their comments and improvements on earlier versions of this article, Rabbit for pointing out the finer points of separating out the gold nuggets, and the Pet Centre, Lower Hutt, for allowing me to photograph their blue-fin Panaque. References: Planet catfish www.planetcatfish.com Lujan, N.K.; Arce, M.; , JonathanW. Armbruster, J.W. (2009). A New Black Baryancistrus with Blue Sheen from the Upper Orinoco (Siluriformes: Loricariidae). Copeia 2009: 50–56. Py-Daniel1, L.R.; Zuanon, J.; de Oliveira, R.R. (2011). Two new ornamental loricariid catfishes ofBaryancistrus from rio Xingu drainage (Siluriformes: Hypostominae). Neotropical Ichthyology 9: 241–252. Silva, G.S.C., Roxo, F.F. and Oliveira, C. (2015). Two new species of Pseudancistrus (Siluriformes, Loricariidae) from the Amazon basin, northern Brazil. ZooKeys 482: 21–34. Vires, L. (1999). Loricariidae: The Tricks of the Trade. Vires Publishing. ©This item may not be reproduced without written permission

Phantoms and candy – Hemiancistrus and Peckoltia Author: Darren Stevens First published in Aquarium World November 2009 Hemiancistrus and Peckoltia are two similar, probably related, plecos. Although similar, Hemiancistrusspecies generally have spots and a uniform colour while Peckoltia generally have saddle-shaped markings on their back and stripes or spots on the head, belly, and fins. Hemiancistrus There are about 25 scientifically described Hemiancistrus species, and many awaiting a scientific name.Hemiancistrus has unclear origins and has been used as a scientific dumping ground for plecos, i.e. if it's not any other type of pleco its Hemiancistrus. Hemi means “half” in reference to Hemiancistrus species having half (or some) of the features of Ancistrus (e.g. common bristlenose, Ancistrus cf. cirrhosus). They are generally found in flowing water in medium to large rivers in the Guyanas (French Guiana, Guyana, Suriname), and the Rio (river) Negro, Rio Orinoco, and southern Amazonian tributaries. Hemiancistrusappreciate good water flow, plenty of aeration, and plenty of cover, in particular rocks. Feeding habits vary but most species are largely vegetarian. Green and blue phantom plecos are specialised aufwuchs feeders (see Gold nuggets & Snowflakes article) and should be fed on a largely vegetarian diet (algae wafers, courgette, cucumber, lettuce, spinach, etc.) with only very small quantities of meaty foods (blood worms, shrimps, shrimp pellets, tubifex, etc). Green phantom pleco (Hemiancistrus subviridis, L200) Green phantom plecos are actually two similar looking species: Hemiancistrus subviridis andBaryancistrus demantoides. Both are olive with white to golden-yellow spots and originate from the upper Rio Orinoco and lower Rio Venturi in southern Venezuela. If there is a gap between the dorsal (top) fin and the adipose fin (the small knob-like fin in front of the tail) its H. subviridis. If the dorsal fin is connected to the adipose fin it’s a hi-fin green phantom pleco, B. demantoides. There is taxonomic uncertainty around the placement of Hemiancistrus subviridus (and presumably H. sp. L128) in the genus Hemiancistrus. A recent study placed H. subviridus and the very similar shaped H. guahiborum (see below), in their own clade along with Baryancistrus beggini and B. demantoides. These four species may need to be placed in their own new genus in the future. Most green phantom plecos imported into New Zealand have been H. subviridis, however a few high-fins have been imported. H. subviridis is a medium sized pleco (to 19 cm standard length, SL) suited to medium to large tanks with pH’s of 6.0–7.8 and temperatures of 22–25oC. This species has been bred occasionally overseas. Blue phantom pleco (Hemiancistrus species L128) Blue phantom plecos are a greenish-blue, medium sized pleco (to 18 cm SL) with bluish white spots. This L-number may be a darker, northern form of the green phantom pleco, Hemiancistrus subviridis. An even darker form, the black phantom pleco, Hemiancistrus species L476, is found in the Rio Vaupes in Colombia but is rare overseas and has not been imported into New Zealand. Blue phantom plecos originate from the Rio Orinoco in Venezuela, and are suited to medium to large tanks with pH’s of 6.0–7.0 and temperatures of 22–25°C. Blue phantom plecos have been bred occasionally overseas. Orange seam pleco (Hemiancistrus guahiborum L106) Orange seam plecos are a mottled gray and tan medium sized pleco (to 15 cm SL) with an orange border to the dorsal and caudal fins. This pleco has unclear relationships and has also been placed in Pseudancistrus and Guyanancistrus by some researchers. A recent study placed. H. guahiborum, H. subviridus, Baryancistrus beggini, and B. demantoides in their own clade and they may be placed in their own new genus in the future. orange seam plecos are peaceful and require oxygen rich water and a strong current, with pH's of 5.0–7.0 and temperatures of 25–29°C. This species has not been bred in captivity. Peckoltia There are about 18 scientifically described Peckoltia species, and many awaiting a scientific name.Peckoltia was named after Gustavo Peckolt of the Natural History Commission of Rondon. These plecos are less commonly available than the similar looking Panaqolus (formerly included in the Genus Panaque) with which they are often confused. They also look similar to some Hypancistrus but can be separated from them by their teeth. Peckoltia have brush-shaped teeth while Panaqolus (and Panaques) have spoon-shaped teeth. These genera have similar sized teeth on the upper and lower jaws, while Hypancistrus have fewer and much larger teeth on the lower jaw. Peckoltia are generally found in shallow rocky rifles or in quieter water amongst submerged branches and in log cavities in the Orinoco, Essequibo, and Amazon River systems. They are omnivores with an affinity for meaty foods. Feed them on pleco algal wafers, veggies such as courgettes and peas, shrimp pellets, and meaty foods such as bloodworms, mysis shrimps, and brine shrimp. They are not good algae eaters and will generally not graze on aquarium plants. These plecos are generally small and peaceful, although mature males are territorial and may squabble. They are ideally suited to most community tanks if plenty of cover is provided. They do not need good water flow, but do appreciate lots of aeration. Peckoltia are cave spawners and a few species have been bred overseas. A few Peckoltia species have been imported including: Spotted Peckoltia (Peckoltia cf. brevis, L205, LDA78) The spotted Peckoltia is a small (to 12 cm SL) tan pleco with fine brown spots on the head and belly, brown bands on the fins and tail, and irregular brown bands and spots on the body. They originate from the Purus River Basin in Peru and Brazil. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 5.8–7.8 and temperatures of 22–26°C. This species has been bred a few times in New Zealand but is becoming quite rare. Leopard frog pleco (Peckoltia compta L134) The leopard frog pleco is a small (to 11 cm SL) beautifully patterned yellowish pleco covered with very clearly defined broad black spots. Older fish are darker with more stripes and specimens from the Rio Jamanxim have a finer, more spotted pattern. Leopard frogs are often regarded as the most attractive Peckoltia species. They originate from the Rio Tapajos drainage in Brazil. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 5.0–7.4 and temperatures of 24–28°C. This species has been bred a few times in New Zealand but is quite rare. ‘Big band tiger pleco’ (Peckoltia sp. L140) Peckoltia sp. L140 is a small (to about 14 cm SL) attractive yellowish pleco with black stripes. These plecos were sold as ‘big band tiger plecos’ although this is not a recognised common name. They were initially sold as L288 although they were later identified by an overseas expert as Peckoltia sp. L140. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of about 5–7 and temperatures of 25–29°C. Peckoltia sp. l140 is very similar to, perhaps the same as, the candy striped pleco, Peckoltia vittata, L015, which has also occasionally been imported. This species has recently been bred many times in New Zealand and is reasonably priced and freely available. Para or Big spot pleco (Peckoltia sabaji, L075, L124, L301, LDA02) Big spot plecos or Para are a yellow to beige medium sized pleco (to 25 cm SL) with black spots. This pleco was originally placed in Peckoltia, although some researchers now place it in Hemiancistrus (others in Ancistomus – although this new grouping has not been widely adopted). Para plecos are relatively peaceful and are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 6.0–7.6 and temperatures of 24–26°C. This species has been bred overseas. Para plecos were imported a number of years ago and are now very rare in New Zealand.. There are other Peckoltia that have been imported into New Zealand but their identity is unresolved. Some of these plecos have been referred to as vittata or candy striped plecos (Peckoltia vittata, L015) or leopard frog plecos (P. compta, L134) but they were not these species. To add to the confusion, clown plecos (Panaqolus aff. maccus, L448) have sometimes been sold as 'pretty Peckoltia'. I would like to thank Firenzenz and Krazy Geoff for their comments and improvements on earlier versions of this article. Thanks to the Pet Centre, Lower Hutt, for allowing me to photograph their ‘big band tiger pleco’. References: Planet catfish http://www.planetcatfish.com Jonathan Armbrusters Loricariidae website http://www.auburn.edu/academic/science_math/res_area/loricariid/fish_key/lorhome/ index.html Seidel, I. (2008). Back to nature guide to L-Catfishes. Fohrman Aquaristik AB, Sweden. 208 p. Armbruster, J. W. (2008). The genus Peckoltia with the description of two new species and a reanalysis of the phylogeny of the genera of the Hypostominae (Siluriformes: Loricariidae). Zootaxa 1822: 1–76. Armbruster, J. W.; Werneke, D. C.; Tan, M. (2015). Three new species of saddled loricariid catfishes, and a review of Hemiancistrus, Peckoltia, and allied genera (Siluriformes). ZooKeys 480: 97–123. Werneke, D. C.; Armbruster, J. W.; Lujan, N. K.; Taphorn, D. C. (2005). Hemiancistrus guahiborum, a new suckermouth catfish from Southern Venezuela (Siluriformes: Loricariidae). Neotropical Ichthyology 3(4): 543–548. Werneke, D. C.; Sabaj, M. H.; Lujan, N. K; Armbruster, J. W. (2005): Baryancistrus demantoides and Hemiancistrus subviridis, two new uniquely colored species of catfishes from Venezuela (Siluriformes: Loricariidae). Neotropical Ichthyology 3(4): 533–542. ©This item may not be reproduced without written permission

Red spots and gold spots – Pterygoplichthys Author: Darren Stevens First published in Aquarium World February 2010 Red spots, gold spots, and common plecos are some of the most popular in the hobby. They are often called sailfin plecos due to their very large dorsal fins. Sailfin plecos are all species of Pterygoplichthys, and not Hypostomus as many people believe. This is because the original ‘common’ plecos imported in the 1960’s were species of Hypostomus, probably including Hypostomus plecostomus (the origin of the term pleco). From the 1980’s sailfins were the commonly imported plecos: in particular what is now known as the common pleco, Pterygoplichthys pardalis. Hypostomus species are now relatively rarely imported. These two groups are easy to tell apart. Sailfin plecos have a broad-based, high dorsal fin with 10–14 fin rays (+1 hard spine at the front), while Hypostomus species have a shorter dorsal fin base and 7–8 fin rays (+1 spine). There are 14 scientifically described sailfin plecos, and at least one awaiting a scientific name. In the early 1990’s a review of sailfins suggested that they should be split into three groups: the originalPterygoplichthys, and two new ones: Glyptoperichthys, and Liposarcus. However, these new groups have not been widely adopted. Researchers still refer to them by calling them the ‘P. gibbiceps group’ (formerly Glyptoperichthys) and the ‘P. multiradiatus group’ (formerly Liposarcus). Red spots, gold spots, and ‘yellow sailfin plecos’ (the P. gibbiceps group) can be separated from common plecos (the P.multiradiatus group) by their more robust build and a pronounced hump in front of the dorsal fin (obvious in large specimens). Sailfin plecos are widespread in South America and found in the Amazon, Magdalena, Maracaibo, Orinoco, Paraná, and São Francisco river systems, where they are often found in slow flowing streams, floodplain lakes, and marshes. These plecos are hardy, adaptable, and generally peaceful when small. They are attractive and well priced but will eventually grow too big for most aquaria. Larger specimens can be territorial and aggressive towards other plecos, and need good filtration as they produce a large amount of waste. They are more active during daylight hours if plenty of cover is provided. Sailfin plecos are largely vegetarian but will eat most prepared fish foods. Feed them on pleco algae wafers, veggies (courgettes, cucumber, silverbeet, shelled peas, etc.), and smaller quantities of high protein foods (shrimp pellets, shrimps, fish, blood worms, etc.). Most species have not been bred in aquaria. This would be very difficult to achieve as in the wild males of many species are known to burrow into muddy riverbanks to lay and brood their eggs. However common plecos, red spots and gold spots are all bred in large numbers in ponds in commercial fish farms in Asia and North America. The following sailfin plecos are likely to be found in New Zealand. Common pleco (Pterygoplichthys pardalis, L021, L023) The common pleco is a large (to 42 cm standard length, SL) light grey to brown pleco with dark spots on the body that often fuse together to form irregular twisted lines, and dark spots on the belly. Albino and chocolate varieties are available. The chocolate or chocolate albino variety is an amelanistic form, i.e. it lacks melanin (black pigment). Common plecos originate from the Amazon River system and have been established in the wild in parts of North America and Asia, presumably from aquarium releases. They are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 6.0–7.5 and temperatures of 21–26oC. It is likely that other sailfin plecos have been imported as common plecos; the most likely being the vermiculated sailfin pleco, P. disjunctivus, and possibly the Orinoco sailfin pleco, P. multiradiatus. When normally coloured (i.e. not albino or chocolate) they can be separated on patterning. Common plecos and vermiculated sailfin plecos have dark spots that often fuse together to form irregular twisted lines (vermiculated patterning) on the body and head. However, common plecos have mostly discrete (separate, not fused) dark spots on the belly whereas vermiculated sailfins have mostly dark vermiculated patterning on the belly. Orinoco sailfins have discrete dark spots over the back half of the body. Red spot pleco (Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps, L083, L165) The red spot pleco or gibby is a large (to 45 cm SL) pale brown/yellowish pleco covered with irregular large brown spots separated by a thin margin giving a honeycombed appearance. Albino varieties are also available. They originate from the middle and upper Amazon and Orinoco basin. They are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 6.5–7.8 and temperatures of 23–27oC. Gold spot pleco (Pterygoplichthys joselimaianus, L001, L022) The gold spot pleco is a large (to 30 cm SL) dark brown pleco covered with golden spots, which often merge on the body to form irregular lines. They originate from the Rio Tocantins basin in Brazil and are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 6.5–7.3 and temperatures of 24–29oC. This species was the first pleco to be given an L-number. ‘Yellow sailfin pleco’ (Pterygoplichthys weberi) Pterygoplichthys weberi is a large (to about 25 cm SL) pale brown/yellowish pleco covered with relatively large dark brown to black spots. These plecos have been sold as ‘yellow sailfin plecos’, although there is no accepted common name for this species. They originate from the Rio Marañon, Rio Ucayali, and upper Rio Amazonas drainages of Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru. They are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of about 6.0–7.0 and temperatures of 22–26oC. They are rarely available in New Zealand. I would like to thank Firenzenz and Krazy Geoff for their comments and improvements on earlier versions of this article, and the Pet Centre, Lower Hutt, for allowing me to photograph their sailfins. References: Planet catfish (www.planetcatfish.com) ScotCat (www.scotcat.com) Wikipedia (en.wikipedia.org) Jonathan Armbrusters Loricariidae website (http://www.auburn.edu/academic/science_math/res_area/loricariid/fish_key/lorhome/ index.html) Seidel, I. (2008). Back to nature guide to L-Catfishes. Fohrman Aquaristik AB, Sweden. 208 p. Armbruster, J. W.; Page, L.M. (2006). Redescription of Pterygoplichthys punctatus and description of a new species of Pterygoplichthys (Siluriformes: Loricariidae). Neotropical Ichthyology 4: 401–409. Chavezi, J.M.; De La Pazi, R. M.; Manohari, S. K.; Pagulayan2, R. C.; Carandang VII, J. R. (2006). New Philippine record of south american sailfin catfishes (Pisces: Loricariidae). Zootaxa 1109: 57–68. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission

The carnivores – Pseudacanthicus andScobinancistrus Author: Darren Stevens First published in Aquarium World May 2010 Although most plecos are herbivores or omnivores, there are a few mainly carnivorous plecos, including two spectacular beauties – the leopard cactus pleco and the goldie pleco. These plecos grow large and can be aggressive – particularly as adults, and as such are only suitable for large tanks with plenty of cover and line of sight barriers. Feed your carnivorous plecos on a varied protein-rich diet, along with a few veggies. I feed mine on carnivore pellets, trout pellets, shrimps, fish, frozen mussels, bloodworms, algae wafers and courgettes. Pseudacanthicus Pseudacanthicus means ‘false thorns’ in reference to the numerous thorn-like spikes that adorn the body, and give rise to the common name of cactus pleco. There are seven scientifically described cactus plecos and several awaiting a scientific name. Cactus plecos are generally found in deeper water in lowland rivers in north-eastern Brazil, although the odd species is found in the Guyanas. Most species grow to about 25-30cm, although there are notable exceptions such as the P. hystrix which grows to at least 80cm. Many cactus plecos have limited ranges and are therefore susceptible to overfishing. For this reason the export of many Brazilian species has been banned by IBAMA, Brazil’s environmental protection agency. However the leopard cactus pleco is widespread and approved for export. The leopard cactus pleco is a large (to 24 cm standard length, SL) pale orange-brown pleco covered with irregular large black spots separated by a thin margin, giving a honeycombed appearance. The dorsal (top) fin and caudal (tail) fin are covered with varying amounts of orange. There are four very similar forms (L114, L427, 'L600', LDA07) which may represent two or more species or one widespread variable species. Most leopard cactus plecos in the hobby are apparently Demini leopard cactus plecos (P. cf. leopardus, L114) from the Rio Demini in Brazil. True leopard cactus plecos (P. leopardus, 'L600') come from waterways in the vicinity of the Brazil/Guyana border, and they grow a little larger (to 35 cm TL) than L114. They also differ slightly in colour, body form, and apparently the number of teeth. Both forms are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 5.6–7.0 and temperatures of 24–28oC. Demini leopard cactus plecos (L114) have been bred twice in New Zealand and several times overseas. Scobinancistrus Scobinancistrus are closely related to the wood-eating Panaques, and their smaller Panaqolus relies, and some researchers consider they should be placed in a Panaque sub-group. They have a few (about 6-8) long narrow spoon-shaped teeth on each jaw, while Panaques and Panaqolus have several shorter, broader spoon-shaped teeth. Their large ‘buck-teeth’ are thought to be for eating molluscs (snails and other shellfish), and they are effective snail eaters in aquariums. Scobinancistrus are found in clear waterways in north-eastern Brazil (the rios (rivers) Xingu, Tapajos, Tocantins, Jamanxim, and Cupari), where they are captured by divers with air supplies (sometimes in over 20 metres depth). There are two scientifically described Scobinancistrus species: the golden cloud pleco, S. pariolispos and the goldie or sunshine pleco, S. aureatus, and another couple awaiting a scientific name. Golden cloud plecos are black with white spots and are very rare in New Zealand, while goldie plecos are regularly imported. Goldie or Sunshine pleco (Scobinancistrus aureatus, L014) Goldie or sunshine plecos are a large (to 30 cm SL) striking black bodied pleco covered with fine white to yellowish spots. In juveniles, the fins, tail, and suckermouth are yellow-orange. As they grow the spots become finer, more numerous, and spread over the fins; and the yellow-orange colour on the fins and tail becomes more yellowish and fades to the tips. Goldie plecos are relatively peaceful but will hold their own once established. They can be aggressive towards others goldies, particularly if there is not sufficient space for territories, and may inflict painful injuries with their teeth. They originate from the Rio Xingu in Brazil, where they live alongside zebra plecos (Hypancistrus zebra) and gold nuggets (Baryancistrus xanthellus L018, L085). They are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 5.8–7.2 and temperatures of 25–29oC. Goldie plecos have been bred occasionally overseas. There are other mainly carnivorous plecos that are occasionally seen in New Zealand, including the coffee and cream cactus pleco (Pseudacanthicus spinosus, L160), scarlet pleco (Pseudacanthicus pirarara, L025), galaxy or vampire pleco (Leporacanthicus galaxias, L007, L029), and the golden vampire pleco (L. heterodon, L172). I would like to thank Firenzenz and Krazy Geoff for their comments and improvements on earlier versions of this article. References: Planet catfish (www.planetcatfish.com) ScotCat (www.scotcat.com) Jonathan Armbrusters Loricariidae website (http://www.auburn.edu/academic/science math/res_area/ loricariid/fish_key/lorhome/index.html) Seidel, I. (2008). Back to nature guide to L-Catfishes. Fohrman Aquaristik AB, Sweden. 208 p. Evers, H-G.; Seidel, I. (2005). Baensch Catfish Atlas Vol 1. Mergus, Germany. 943 p. © This item may not be reproduced without written permi

Starlights and medusas – The bristlenoses Author: Darren Stevens First published in Aquarium World May 2011 The common bristlenose catfish and the GBA (golden black-eyed Ancistrus) are two of the most commonly available plecos in the hobby. They are small, growing to about 12 cm, tolerate a wide range of aquarium conditions, and breed freely. Both are types of Ancistrus and along with other similar relatives they are commonly called bristlenose or bushynose catfish, after the large fleshy ‘tentacles’ found on the front half of the head of adult males. The function of these large bristles is not known but it has been suggested that they imitate young bristlenose that are ready to leave the nest, as females prefer to lay their eggs in the nests of males that are already guarding young because this shows they are good parents. There are over 60 scientifically described Ancistrus species, and many more awaiting a scientific name. The name Ancistrus comes from the Greek word agkistron which means hook in reference to the hooked odontal spines on their cheeks. Bristlenose catfish are widespread in rivers and floodplains throughout the Amazon River system. The common Ancistrus species, such as the common bristlenose and GBA’s, are relatively hardy and peaceful, although adult males are territorial and do squabble. Most Ancistrus are suitable for community tanks, but they do need plenty of cover, in particular bogwood which is thought to be an essential part of their diet. However, some Ancistrus species such as the medusa plecos (Ancistrus ranunculus L034 andAncistrus sp. L255) are sensitive and are only suitable for experienced aquarists. All bristlenose appreciate good water flow and high dissolved oxygen levels. Along with bogwood, feed your bristlenose on a varied diet of veggies, pleco algae wafers, and the odd meaty treat (shrimps, bloodworms, etc.). Most people feed bristlenose on courgettes and cucumber, but also try them on other veggies such as shelled peas, green beans, broccoli, silverbeet, spinach, etc. Sometimes they take a while to get used to a new veggie so try them on it a few times before giving up. Meaty foods should only be fed occasionally and in small quantities. A protein rich diet may result in the early death of your bristlenose. Common bristlenose and GBA’s are easy to breed, although other species are more difficult. There are excellent articles on how to attempt this on Planet Catfish (www.planetcatfish.com). There are many very similar looking Ancistrus species and as a result there is often confusion over their identity. It also appears that some species will hybridise if given the chance. Therefore, the identity of most Ancistrus species available in New Zealand is not well known and should be regarded as tentative. The following species are some of the more commonly available bristlenoses, along with their tentative identifications. Common bristlenose (Ancistrus cf. cirrhosus) The common bristlenose catfish is a small (to about 12.5 cm standard length, SL) light to dark brown fish with light brown spots. There are a number of man-made colour varieties overseas including albino, piebald, calico, green dragon, and super red forms and all are available as long-finned veiltails. In New Zealand we have standard, albino, and calico colour varieties. Recently standard, albino, and calico long finned veiltails have been imported. Common bristlenose are of unknown origin. For decades they were wrongly calledAncistrus dolichopterus, the scientific name for the starlight bristlenose. More recently they were referred to as Ancistrus sp (3). Recently, pleco guru Ingo Seidel, concluded that they closely resemble Ancistrus cirrhosus from the Paraná River, Argentina, one of the first Ancistrus species imported into Europe. Given these similarities it is now referred to as Ancistrus cf. cirrhosus, meaning that common bristlenose are very similar to Ancistrus cirrhosus, and possibly the same species. Common bristlenose have been captured in waterways in Central America and Florida, presumably from aquarium releases. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 5.8–7.2 and temperatures of 21–26.5ºC. Common bristlenose are easy to breed. Golden black-eyed Ancistrus (GBA) (Ancistrus sp. (4)) Golden black-eyed Ancistrus (or GBA’s) are a small (to about 12.5 cm SL) golden, black-eyed pleco. They are amelanistic, i.e. they lack black pigment (melanin), and are of unknown origin, although they are thought to have been derived from the common bristlenose. They are often incorrectly referred to asAncistrus sp. L144, a Paraquan species which has a blotchy look and is apparently very rare in the hobby. Regardless of their origin they can be kept in the same conditions as common bristlenose and are easy to breed. They are also available as long-finned veiltails. ‘spotted’ Ancistrus (Ancistrus sp.) The ‘spotted’ Ancistrus is a light brown species with small pale brown spots. It is a recent import of unknown identity, although it has been tentatively identified as Ancistrus ‘Rio Ucayali’, a PeruvianAncistrus from the Rio Ucayali. This species grows to about 15–20 cm, and they are suitable for most aquarium conditions. They have been bred many times in New Zealand. Starlight bristlenose (Ancistrus dolichopterus, L183) Starlight bristlenose are a beautiful little (to 10 cm SL) dark brown pleco covered with very small white spots and a thin white margin to the dorsal (top) fin and tail. starlight bristlenose used to be very rare in New Zealand. However, recently a major New Zealand pet store chain has imported starlights in good numbers and at reasonably prices. There are several similar patterned Ancistrus species but apparently only the starlight bristlenose has one hard and mainly nine (sometimes 8–10) soft dorsal fin rays. other similar patterned Ancistrus have 7, rarely 8, soft dorsal rays. Prior to these recent imports most new Zealand 'starlights' had 8 soft dorsal rays and they lose most of their white fin edging with age, only retaining it on the outer tips of their caudal fin. these plecos are likely to be peppermint plecos (Ancistrus sp. L071, L181, L249) which are reportedly easier to keep and breed. True starlight bristlenose originate from the upper and middle Amazon River basin and the Negro, lower Trombetas, Tefé, Madeira and Tapajós River basins. They are a relatively delicate species that does best in blackwater tanks (the tank water is stained dark by tannins released from plant material) with pH’s of 6.0–7.0 and temperatures of 23–28ºC. 'Starlights' have been breed occasionally in New Zealand. Gold-marbled bristlenose (Ancistrus claro, LDA08) The Gold-marbled bristlenose is a beautiful small (to 7 cm SL) dark brown pleco covered with a network of irregular pale brown spots and stripes. Gold-marbled bristlenose originate from the Rios Claro and Coxipo in Brazil. They are suited to most community tanks with pH’s of 6.2–7.6 and temperatures of 24–28ºC. They have been bred occasionally in New Zealand but have not been imported for many years and they are now very rare. There are other Ancistrus species that have been imported, including the Jari blue Ancistrus (L325). However many species look very similar and it is often difficult to get an accurate identification. One of the most distinctive Ancistrus is the medusa pleco (Ancistrus ranunculus L034) with a very broad and flattened body. It is almost identical to the spotted medusa pleco (A. sp., L255) but is covered with fine white spots. These beautiful species are delicate and not recommended for beginners. I thank Firenzenz and Krazy Geoff for their comments and improvements on earlier versions of this article. References: Planet catfish (www.planetcatfish.com) ScotCat (www.scotcat.com) Wikipedia (en.wikipedia.org) Jonathan Armbrusters Loricariidae website (http://www.auburn.edu/academic/science math/res_area/ loricariid/fish_key/lorhome/index.html) Sabaj, M.H.; Armbruster, J.W.; Page, L.M. (1999): Spawning in Ancistrus (Siluriformes: Loricariidae) with comments on the evolution of snout tentacles as a novel reproductive strategy: larval mimicry. Ichthyol. Explor. Freshwaters 10 (3): 217–229. Seidel, I. (2008). Back to nature guide to L-Catfishes. Fohrman Aquaristik AB, Sweden. 208 p. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission

The real Hypostomus Author: Darren Stevens First published in Aquarium World August 2011 Contrary to popular belief, red spots, gold spots, and common plecos are not types of Hypostomus as many people believe, but they are all types of sailfin plecos or Pterygoplichthys. Hypostomus species are relatively rarely imported. The confusion arises from the fact that the original ‘common’ plecos imported into the hobby in the 1960’s were species of Hypostomus. From the 1980’s the commonly imported plecos were all types of sailfin plecos or Pterygoplichthys. These two groups are easy to tell apart. As their names suggests sailfin plecos (common plecos, red spots, and gold spots) have an impressive broad-based dorsal (top) fin with 10–14 fin rays (+1 hard spine at the front) while Hypostomus species have a shorter dorsal fin base and 7–8 fin rays (+1 spine). There are currently 138 scientifically described Hypostomus species making it the largest pleco group. The name Hypostomus comes from the Greek words ‘hypo’ meaning under and ‘stoma’ meaning mouth, in reference to the mouth being under the head (as is the case for all plecos). Hypostomus species are widespread through South America from Venezuela to Argentina where they are generally found in slow flowing lowland waterways and lakes, often associated with submerged wood. These plecos are hardy, adaptable, and generally peaceful. However, most species will grow from 20 to 40 cm making them too big for smaller aquaria. Larger specimens can be territorial and aggressive towards other plecos, and need good filtration as they produce a large amount of waste. As they are wild caught, they are relatively expensive. With so many Hypostomus species it is not surprising that their diet varies significantly from specialised wood eaters, to aufwuchs (essentially algal biofilm) grazers, to omnivores. Most species do well on a largely vegetarian diet of pleco algae wafers, veggies (courgettes, cucumber, silverbeet, shelled peas, etc.), and smaller quantities of high protein foods (shrimp pellets, shrimps, fish, blood worms, etc.). TheHypostomus cochliodon group (see below) are specialised wood eaters and wood is an essential part of their diet. Most Hypostomus species have not been bred in aquaria. For many species this would be difficult to achieve as in the wild males burrow into muddy riverbanks to lay and brood their eggs. The followingHypostomus species are likely to be found in New Zealand. The Hypostomus cochliodon group. This group contains 16 very similar scientifically named species which were previously placed in the genus Cochliodon. We get a few of these species in New Zealand and they are variously marketed as bruno, Cochliodon, rusty, scarlet, or velvet plecos. Most species in this group have highly specialised spoon shaped teeth that enable them to chisel wood (and to scrape algae). As with the unrelatedPanaques, wood is regarded as an essential part of their diet. These plecos are difficult to identify and the following identifications should be regarded as tentative. Cochliodon pleco (Hypostomus cochliodon L310, LDA7) The Cochliodon pleco is a relatively large (to 23 cm standard length, SL) rusty brown pleco often with a wide tan stripe on the upper half of the body. Other individuals lack the stripe and are uniformly dark brown. Cochliodon plecos are found in Paraguay and middle Paraná River basins. They are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 6.3–7.2 and cooler temperatures of 21–24ºC. Spotted Cochliodon (Hypostomus cf. cochliodon, L050) The spotted cochliodon pleco is a relatively large (to 18 cm standard length, SL) rusty brown brown pleco similar to H. cochliodon but covered with broadly spaced black dots. Spotted Cochliodons are found in Rios Tocantins and Lageado. They are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 6.5–7.2 and cooler temperatures of 22–25ºC. Blue eyed redfin pleco (Hypostomus soniae, L137) The blue eyed redfin pleco is a relatively large (to 30 cm standard length, SL) rusty brown pleco with a broad tan markings on the upper half of the body, and as its name suggests pale blue eyes. Blue eyed redfin plecos are found in temporary pools on riversides of Rio Tapajós, Brazil. They are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 6.0–7.5 and temperatures of 24–28ºC. Another Hypostomus species that has occasionally been imported is the Honeycomb pleco. It is not a member of the Hypostomus cochliodon group and does not need wood in its diet. Honeycomb pleco (Hypostomus faveolus, L037) The Honeycomb pleco is a relatively large (to 21 cm standard length, SL) attractive dark brown pleco covered with pale brown spots separated by a thin margin giving a honeycombed appearance. They are found in rapids through to slow flowing rivers of the Upper Rio Araguaia, Rio Tocantins and upper Rio Xingu basins in Brazil. They are suited to larger tanks with pH’s of 5.0–7.0 and temperatures of 23–27ºC. I would like to thank Krazy Geoff for his comments and improvements on earlier versions of this article, and Chris Down’s for allowing me to photograph his rustys. References. Planet catfish (www.planetcatfish.com) ScotCat (www.scotcat.com) Jonathan Armbrusters Loricariidae website (http://www.auburn.edu/academic/science math/res_area/ loricariid/fish_key/lorhome/index.html) Seidel, I. (2008). Back to nature guide to L-Catfishes. Fohrman Aquaristik AB, Sweden. 208 p. Armbruster, J. W. (2003). The species of the Hypostomus cochliodon group (Siluriformes: Loricariidae).Zootaxa 249: 1–60. Armbruster, J. W. (2005). Hypostomus macushi, a new species of the Hypostomus cochliodon group (Siluriformes: Loricariidae) from Guyana. Zootaxa 920: 1–12. Hollanda Carvalho, P.; Weber, C. (2004). Five new species of the Hypostomus cochliodon group (Siluriformes: Loricariidae) from the middle and lower Amazon System. Revue Suisse de Zoologie 111:953–978. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission

CryptocorynesAuthor: Simon Check First published in Aquarium World August 2009 Cryptocorynes come from the rainforests of South East Asia and India/Sri Lanka, with approx 60 known species and probably many yet to be discovered. The name Cryptocoryne, comes from the Greek words “Krypto”= hidden and “Koryne”= Stick, referring to the hidden spadix. They are a basal growth herbaceous perennial plant and a member of the Araceae family. With most species of Crypts, the only sure way to identify them is to observe their bloom. Few crypts will flower while fully submersed, and the actual appearance of a submersed cultivated plant can vary greatly from that of one gown emersed. In their natural environment they grow in bogs and swamps or grow on stream and river banks, where they are seasonally flooded with the wet season. During the dry season is when these plants will flower, and the flowers can be described as nothing short of spectacular. After discovering the spectacular and bizarre flowers that this species produces, I decided to try and replicate their natural environment, and see if I could get them to flower. Because they are from humid and warm rainforests of Asia, these conditions are required to be maintained, due to the fact of an adaptive feature of the plants known as “Crypt Melt”. If the plant is subjected to extreme changes, ie temp, humidity, the plant will start to turn brown, and the leaves and stems turn to a mush and disintegrate. I have used a 300 litre Aqua One tank that has three built-in 30 watt T8 fluorescent tubes. Being covered, keeps the humidity up and temperatures pretty constant. The crypts had their roots pruned and were planted in small terracotta pots with holes drilled through them to allow water to flow easily around the roots. Planting media is a mixture of general potting mix with sand, peat and Daltons Aquatic Mix. The pots were then placed into the tank and water was added to the level just below the top of the pots. A 300 watt aquarium heater is the heat source, heating the water to approximately 27°C. A small powerhead and airpump with an airstone are used to provide water movement to prevent any uneven temperature. This also has the added advantage that it increases humidity due to the bubbling. Lighting is set on a timer and is running 12hrs on and 12hrs off. Initially the crypts were kept in a smaller tank inside the main tank, until the size of my collection increased and they were then placed directly into the big tank. For the first week or two, very little growth occurred due to the pruning of the root system. The reason I trimmed the roots was to encourage new healthy roots to grow, giving the crypts a good start. Most plants have now shown a considerable amount of growth, with lush foliage and even smaller plantlets shooting up be side the mother plants. To date, only one of the crypts has flowered for me, Cryptocoryne Wendtii (this is also the one plant that has grown the most, almost tripling its size) and although this particular crypt does not have as spectacular flowers as some others, it still leaves me with a great amount of satisfaction, and also anticipation, to see what the other plants will produce. The wait continues. ©This item may not be reproduced without written permission

Oxygen Weed, lagarsiphon THIS IS A NATIONWIDE BANNED PEST PLANT. ITS ILLEGAL TO POSSES OR COLLECT IT.Common name: Largarsiphon MajorOrigin:Temperature: 7 – 22 °CpH range: 6.5 – 7.2Hardness:Height: 200mmDifficulty:Status: Not AllowedNotes: Lagarosiphon major Leaves are recurved backwards or downwards, and are arranged spirally around the stem ( Elodea, Egeria, And Hydrilla have leaves in whorls at distinct nodes) Leaves have minute marginal serrations and are approx 16mm long x 2 mm wide (Clayton and Coffey)Propagation: Vegetative reproduction from fragments. It is a Class B noxious plant and is illegal to cultivate in NZ Parrots featherTHIS IS A NATIONWIDE BANNED PEST PLANT. ITS ILLEGAL TO POSSES OR COLLECT IT.IF YOU FIND THIS PLANT PLEASE NOTE ITS EXACT LOCATION AND REPORT IT TO DOC. Myriophyllum aquaticumOrigin: South USA to South AmericaTemperature: 16 – 23 °CpH range: 6.8 – 8.0Hardness: 50 – 200ppmLight: StrongDifficulty: DemandingStatus: BannedNotes: Needs good light and slightly alkaline. Is fast becoming a pest in NZ as it infests farm dams and drinking troughs.Propagation: Banned – Illegal to propagate Twisted Eel Grass THIS IS A NATIONWIDE BANNED PEST PLANT. ITS ILLEGAL TO POSSES OR COLLECT IT. Vallisneria spiralis Origin: Europe – Southern USATemperature: 15 – 24 °CpH range: 6.5 – 7.0Hardness: 50 – 150ppmLight: StrongHeight: 200 – 1200mmDifficulty: EasyStatus: BannedNotes: Leaves 120cm long 5 – 12mm wide. This species grows in any normal aquarium conditions & is the most common of all aquarium plants. It is not exacting to the composition of planting medium or water. If given generous light it propagates quickly & soon fills the aquariumPropagation: Banned – Illegal to propagate Hornwort THIS IS A NATIONWIDE BANNED PEST PLANT. ITS ILLEGAL TO POSSES OR COLLECT IT. IF YOU FIND THIS PLANT PLEASE NOTE ITS EXACT LOCATION AND REPORT IT TO DOC. Ceratophyllum demersum Origin: WorldwideTemperature: 5 – 20 °CpH range: 6.0 -9.0Hardness: 30 – 300ppmLight: Low – Very HighHeight: 50 – 2000mm+Difficulty: EasyStatus: BannedNotes: A submersed plant of 1 – 2 metres in length. Has long rope-like brittle fronds. Very popular with coldwater enthusiasts. Grows lank and sparse in tropical tanks.Common in the Waikato riverPropagation: Banned – Illegal to propagate

President: Craig Dalton Secretary: Sue Dalton Email contact - [email protected] Phone: 07-8847789 About Us: Meetings are usually on the first Thursday of the month at the St Paul's Collegiate, 77 Hukanui Road, Cartwell. Event information is posted on our Facebook page 'Waikato Aquarium Society'. Meetings can include guest speakers, sales tables and fishkeeping subjects. We also have organised weekend events. Subscriptions: Family: $40 Individual: $30 Students & Seniors $15.00 Which includes the $10.00 FNZAS Capitation fee. The capitation fee does not apply to junior memberships.

President: Darren Stevens Secretary: Maxine Lynch [email protected] Postal Address: 32 McHardie St Trentham Upper Hutt 5018 About Us: Our meetings are on the 2nd Tuesday of the month at the Kelson community center 5A Timaru Grove, Kelson, Lower Hutt 5010 Meeting times are 7.30 PM to 9:30 PM Family friendly environment, all ages are welcome at meetings There is parking available on site. We enjoy all parts of the hobby, and our meetings cover topics requested by members, guest speakers, and projects. Subscriptions: $30.00 Which includes $10.00 FNZAS Capitation fee. The capitation fee does not apply to junior memberships.

This club is currently in recess. For information contact Caryl Simpson Ph: 03 578 9390 Secretary: Postal Address: About us:

Web page About Us - Hawkes Bay Aquarium Society (hbas.org.nz) President: Chris Stokes [email protected] Secretary: Chris Drake [email protected] Treasurer: Laken Stokes [email protected] Meet 3rd Wednesday of the month Please check the website for where meetings are being held, as this can sometimes change. Fees Single $30.00 Family $40.00 Junior $15.00 Senior $15.00

President: Mark McElhinney Secretary: Nic Smith Ph 022 3202 944 Email address [email protected] About Us: Dunedin Aquarium and Pond Society (DAPS) meet at members homes every second Tuesday of the month (Feb to Nov inclusive), starting at 7.00pm. As meetings are held at members homes give one of the club representatives listed above a call for details if you'd like to come along. The average meeting starts with club business - this usually ends around 7:30 so feel free to show up then. We'll then usually have nibbles and general conversation/question time. We have an annual tank parade in March for our paid members interested in competing or spending a weekend looking at fish. Subscriptions vary so please contact the Secretary above for further information about joining the club. Manage