chaos0wnage

Im a taker for Dragon HMPK whether marble or not so let me know when he's ready Trilobite, Ill e-mail you when I'm ready mr SS, I'm heading down to HFF and then animates tomorrow, if I make time then bird barn as well... I understand its going to take between 3 and 4 generations to get proper half sun and yet it won't be a true breeder due to co dominance, I'm not on facebook at all Thanks guys, will keep you all posted on the hunt for a good HM female. I know that to find one who has full spread will be hard so I'll give it two weeks after which I guess I'll have to breed the type myself.

Oh yes trilobite, where art thou? I have a Cambodian pk female here... will have a good look around for ct males tomorrow and the weekend. I don't normally cull but what I do is give the unwanted ones to my friends and sell bulk lots on tm, since they're not breeding quality they don't really affect prices. I have a certain HM Dragon I'm following on tm as well.

Hi there all, I have tried the local fish stores and the net but have not found anything great in terms of what I'm looking for. Since there are many experienced hands on this website I am wondering if any of you have or have come across any of the following as I require them for my work. 1. Female CT - Cambodian with good double rays 2. Female OHM - Any colour but OHM needs to be obvious. 3. Full dragon HMPK male or female I'm done with my spade tail project so now I'm moving on to some somewhat hard to find types. why? I intend to get some half sun types for a new planted tank. Thanks in advance. -Gagan

4 to 1 stating current state could be female? The sex of this fish will also determine if it was worth your money unless he/she/heshe was solely bought as a fun pet. I wish less people would refer to hm or other larger tail types as "longtails" its like the whole elephant ear thing all over again.

Green/blues are a nice shade there were a few people looking for pure green or blue a couple weeks back. as for fin growth it just depends what is fed and how often as well as water current and genetics. generally protein rich food aids in growth and low flow sees them grow big tails fast like when breeders use jars. Even though I sell online most of the time, I choose not to be stating a tail type if I'm unsure. If its a small tail I just state plakat, only if overlap of dorsal and anal is obvious I'd say hmpk (I judge this between three and four months of age), when I had a set of fish without ventrals I listed it as such because I knew there could be a flaw in genetics though trilobite educated me that it was actually due to bacterial attack on ventral fins during development anyway back to your story.... see there I think its a male with an egg spot due to large anal fin like what some males have here I think its a female due to body shape how its getting narrow toward the tail and round/wide under head there the egg spot just sticks out to me so would just have to experiment to find out what's going on. long tail types are to my knowledge: 1- Crowntail 2- Delta variants(Superdelta, Rosetail etc) 3- Double Tail 4- Halfmoon Variants (Rosetail, OHM etc) 5- Veiltail - THE REAL LONG TAIL 6- SPADETAIL ( I'm looking for these) and plakats can have any of those variations on their tail as a scaled down form. in an ideal world there would be a large tail, multi tail and long tail category along with plakats I do have problems with these auction sites and clubs as they think they know the genetics through bucket breeding (stole the "Bucket" from bucket chemistry lol) and no real study or experimentation, at times people are abusive with no knowledge of what they are talking about. To find a solution to this problem... Are you in Auckland? I could lend you a Plakat male if you want to try find out

I see an egg spot in Pic #1 and Pic #3, one of the pictures also has a stress stripe showing which is not normal for a male unless water temperature is too low or is a genetically induced trait. As for the IBC banning males in shows with egg spots one would wonder how they would prove it is a male if an ovipositor is present, as many biologists know it is not new for female fish to develop excessive finnage. If you follow most sexing info on the internet... you have people who say females are not generally brightly coloured... I have lots of brightly coloured females in my tank, hell I even have double colours. I have even used them for breeding. All bettas develop sexual organs at a very young age, there are also males who do not blow bubble nests due to passing through a female "phase" at some point then you have males that do blow bubble nests but cannot "wrap" around females in one study they have found that infertile males pass through a female stage which retards sexual development. If you still think its a male with an egg spot you can check by putting in a female with"Him" separating her in a see through container which has water that can pass through it and then making sure the water is still for a couple of days and see if he blows a bubble nest. or You may do the opposite and put in a male, separate them, have them be able to see each other then reduce surface water flow for a couple of days to observe which one builds a bubble nest. Make sure cold air passes on top of the water.

I generally don't move my fighters until they are 4 weeks old or more, breed in 24L acrylic tanks contained in 200L glass tank, I just tip them into the glass tank when their appearance is more fish like. Saves me worrying as both tanks are same temp. You can make it work with 8 week old but you'd have to be super careful with tank and competition the fish would face, but I don't know, its a personal choice and depends on the strength as well as strain of the fish. Personally if I'd want to see him grow I'd ask a breeder for a stable well coloured fish... make sure its not a pk as their fins don't grow big. Alternatively you can breed your own? or go for a good 3 month old. They only get bigger lol :bggrn:

Hello again, It could just be bad luck... :ske: The idea of him being too young to be sold is not about separating him from his siblings, what I had in mind was thee chance of survival in varying water conditions. Hardiness increases with time to a certain point because when the babies near 3 months of age the fish ( fins, scales, body, colour as well as breathing and immune systems) is still growing and coming to be fully operational. There are other conditions such as feeding and care that determine development. So what I'm saying is... at two months of age it is not a fully developed fish yet. Its kind of like saying a 5ft6 80kg grammar school first 15 rugby team member is already an all black. Just wont have the experience or skills to survive on the field... for long. I'm just saying that as a comparison (I know its not that similar) . Here its not the same but similar as the fish would probably not be ready to adapt to different water conditions or have an immune system to produce antibodies to whatever may have been dormant in the breeders water, whatever it was probably became active in your waters and attacked the most eligible host because the conditions may have been right for it to come out of dormancy. I have before dropped in my adult fighters into water which was 17 degrees and quickly put the heater on, they have survived until the water caught up to required temperature (to be fair they were plakats and I was doing a study on adaptation and sensory usage under ideal temperature). But young fry can die at 23 degrees. Personally I think you should take it in as experience and get a bigger fish next time, only keep it to acclimate until both container water and tank water are at same temperature so max would be like an hour?

Where did you get two month old fighters? That's a pretty big chance to take you know. are you located in Auckland? I have a few fighters to spare. At two months of age BBS and daphnia are the best foods, I don't start pellets until 3 Months of age but that's just me cause I want them to be in breeding mode :sml2: What was the water temperature? it could be a parasite that messed the fish up if he full on didn't eat.

Ring animates and ask for the tail type, Saw blue HM last Saturday in Mt roskill.

Nice rumour you have there... "Flaring" is territorial display... basically saying this place is mine, trying to make another fish move in order for the male to feel secure. and It would not make sense for fins to clump up if a fish does not flare, fins would need to be stretched every now and then just so functionality does not disappear. The everyday thing I'd call bs on because when mine are taking care of their fry. they are alone in a relatively dark tank (no reflection or anything the fish flares at) I leave the male in for 3 days then I return him to the conditioning setup. Basically what I'm saying is.... as long as a fish has the capability to flare it can stretch its fins, fins clumping is something new to me and had never heard of it before. I had a copper in a 5L separator who was flaring everyday doing his thing, after a while his anal fin and other long fins started to degrade so before trying to cure fin rot I checked, there was no irregular bacteria or fungi in the water - no other fins on other fish were damaged (I did stains and observed things on various agar plates and tubes) I could only conclude that after a certain age they are vulnerable to fin degradation either by other fish nipping and not recovering or some other factors. Generally as bettas get older they grow into their fins I remember seeing a huge bodied crowntail at a breeders place in Epsom ~4? 5? years ago and thought he was PK but he was just a little older than the fish we see at shops. think he was a couple years old actually.

Hi, update? Try crank up heat to 28 degrees celsius? Anyone have a microscope and a few agar plates handy?