maoripho3nix

The total water volume in my tank and sump will be around the 250L mark....which is about 1.2w/pl of heating....And if Im to get the weipro system, the internal electronic computer system is designed not to power the heater past its set temp, in other words it cuts the power to the heater......in a normal heater the thermo controls the heat and turns on and off to accommodate, but if the thermo fails the power is still going through the heater......failed thermo = boiled fish for tea

The listing says it comes with a 300w heater. Can have 2 heaters with a 1000w total load. For $70 I was The system itself is 20GBP or $45 NZD....the shipping is always a killer.

Im know Jager's are top line product and I'm sure anything better above them are steel heaters. But still.....DONT BUY CHEAP HEATERS

Jagers are highly recommended, but some have had failures in thermostat. Stay away from Jebos and Masterpet, Aquaones although cheap but unreliable. I might go with the Jager, although Ive read some reviews on Resun heaters....Apparently they're the Jager equivalent in China but about half the price. :roll: I was thinking about getting this heater Benefits being: Its Stainless Steel, so it wont shatter And has a temp probe so I wont need to buy one And it looks Techy :lol: And will cost me $70NZD including shipping to buy the one on Ebay. Jager 300w heater on Trademe = $70 excluding shipping. Anyone have one of these systems Weipro systems? Any issues??

The good thing about buying PMDD from Hans is that he/she has mixed them to exact measurements. Electronic scales are highly recommended and also conversion to metric quantities (depending where you got your above recipe). Chemicals are chemicals, I dont think the particular chems that you have will make a bomb of some sort, but at the end of the day you wont want to create a masterpiece of death for your inhabitants of the tank.....or melt plants. I also quoted 1kg lots of the items you purchased from the same supplier, but then you also have to get the ingredients for Trace mix. Was easier buying off Hans. Good luck though I hope it all works out

I had similar problems in the 2nd hand tank I just got. Looks like the previous owner had used silicon to stick the background to the tank. I started off using the blade as suggested which got rid off 99% of it off the glass, just need to remove the residue. When using the blade I would suggest spraying some soapy water on the glass to help smooth the blade over. However in your case I'm guessing there is a lot. I went to the big orange shed (mitre10 mega) today and asked if they had anything that removes silicon sealant, and they do. Sorry I cant remember the name of it though, was too busy looking at the price which was $27. Prices might vary at different dept stores. The staff member assured me it can be used on glass. But not sure what it leaves behind after cleaning it all off. HTH

Not sure if this should be in DIY or Technical. Anyway.... Has anyone tried this? Or anything similar that would be beneficial in the same way, without buying expensive stuff like JBL Aquabasis. Experiences? Trials? Results?? Would like to know I want to use the idea for my tank as I have been givin some top soil, and would be cheaper to make and layer in my tank than buying something such as aquabasis.

Been doing it in steps :roll: :lol: Just doing the big tank for now. I decided to fill it with water, let the water soak into the dirt, but also double as a leak test which has come back alright. But might get some sealant and go over the edges just to be sure. Still buying things to go along with the setup, lights, sump materials etc. And also going through a design process of the aquascape

Anyone know the exact specs of the hagen glo-light range, had a look at their website but it doesnt say much at all. :roll: Kelvin, Lumen, Colour etc I wanted to compare it to these http://genet.gelighting.com/LightProduc ... luorescent^Freshwater%20Aquarium&SearchFieldCode=null I know the glo's will be better but I wanted to compare on specs. Im sure the GE lights are probably cheaper as the are T8NO's and should be able to order them in easy enough from Mitre10 or something. Here is a link to some comparisons of conventional bulbs to the GE 9325K bulbs. Maybe other major brands have similar bulbs? Research

Looks like im going with the T5HO then, was gonna go MH but because of the length of the tank I'd have to get multiple fixtures and somehow get them above my tank. A professionally made light fixture is more than the T5HO so that also helped make my mind up :lol: So the powerglos will be good for the plants and will make the colours in the fish more vibrant?? give them that glowing wow factor??

Was waiting for your input :lol: Is it worth getting a T5HO light unit? In saying that, if I wasnt to go with growing glosso, can I put in T5NO's in a T5HO unit? Ive got a bit of a budget this time, but obviously less $ spent the better. Also with tubes, I was just gonna go with a dual light hood, I want a tube best for growing plants, and another best for bringing out colour in fish. Might get the T5HO double bulb unit, and a very cheap T5NO unit. Main goal/plan is to start off a few hours in morning with T5NO...less intense light, then up the intensity at midday with the T5HO, then back later in the arvo with the less intense, then possibly along the line get some moonlights. I have a small box full of underwater lights that will probably be used for moonlight idea. Glosso will probably play a big part in the tank, but I thought of this idea after reading a lot of posts, and I'm guessing it will prolong the use of the bulbs in the T5HO... Comments? :lol:

Ive seen a few t5 and t8 hoods around, even in the industrial section of TM, but a few posts on the forums have said that glosso fails under NO lights. Many have had success with HO lights or MH. Im also in the stages of setting up pressurized co2 sodastream kit, I have the needle valve, solenoid, and SS cylinder, just need the regulator and im ready to assemble

hmmmmmmmm

Hi all, I've been looking around online at lighting fixtures for the newly acquired tank. Size = 1140L x 390D x 430H(water level will be about 360H) Im looking at growing a range of plants that are less demanding of light, but may eventually have glosso growing. I want to buy a light hood capable of doing all, rather than buy one and having to upgrade to accommodate. What are peoples recommendations on lighting for my tank?

http://www.wimp.com/trainsfish/

Kool thanks for the comments, might get the Jager and an Aquaone to store as a backup.

mediafire.com ? free file hosting I put stuff on there to share with my family overseas....fullHD vids, docs etc

New Tank = New Equipment = $$ gone haha Aquaone have heaters on special atm. When the new tank and sump is setup, the total water volume will be around 200-210L. What is the best method to go by of heating? Keeping in mind efficiency of heating and of cost of power. Is it better to use a heater that is rated above the w/pl....say a 300w for my setup? or run 2 heaters? My idea is, say a 200w will heat the volume of water, but will be on quite a bit. If I was to get 2 x 150w heaters, would they heat the water more efficiently concerning power? spreading the workload of heating?

Thanks, will do that after a bit of spray out. Not too sure on the plants yet. Looking at something simple and not so light demanding. Im sure Ill go through a few designs. Space = potential, might start looking for some rocks and wood first, then go from there.

3 Large tanks and $55 later :roll: The largest one is 1140mmL x 390D x 430H 8) The smaller ones are 915mmL x 300D x 325H 3? the largest will be the main tropical FW tank. The smaller one with the dividers will be a tank for growing submerged plants. The other one will be a native FW tank. So many possibilities now :bounce: Another question, I plan to make a trickle design on the sump, but am thinking about putting my sump inside this: .....for insulation and evaporation purposes. Going along the guide that the more oxygen access for a trickle filter the better, will sealing it inside this polybox defeat the purpose? Also as you can see the tanks are rather dirty, other than a softbrush/toothbrush, a bit of a spray, and some elbow grease....are there any other methods to getting the extra scum off the tanks?

Just scored this. :bounce: Needs a bit of a cleanup but should come out good. Gonna have to make a stand for it now Going slow on this tank but will update. In my last setup, which was quite small compared to this one, it got messy with the glosso. So am sticking to the basics this time. Atleast in this setup I can put bigger plants in :lol: without over crowding the tank Still trying to get my pressurized co2 setup completed I want to build an overflow/sump and have all the equipment in the sump. The tank is roughly 200L, do I need a 200w+ heater in the sump? The search for plants now begins :bounce:

Thanks for the reply guys, Im not really concerned about a diffuser ATM or a bubble counter. I just need to know if I need anything more in the main system setup of getting the Co2 from the cylinder, to the final outlet....which from then I can add the bubble counter and then to the diffuser in the tank. As before all of that I need the gas from the cylinder first, which is where I'm stuck....dunno how to set the above system up. Im using my filter intake as a diffuser ATM, works like any other diffuser, never heard any bad opinions about doing it this way. Otherwise I'll be looking for a cheap glass one, have seen them on the forums for sale before If anyone can help with the setup or link me to a site that would be great. Thanks

Yep, but Im buying bigger either this week or next week. Gonna do a fishless cycle, and want this c02 setup for the new tank.

OK when it comes to setting up this kind of stuff I'm a total n00b. I was sent a little package from a relly in ozzy, he bought double of what he needed, set one up for himself and sent me the second set. Unfortunately he's gone to work for a few months in the middle of ozzy and is unable to talk me through or show me instructions on how to set this whole thing up. Below is what he sent me + a pic. Burkert 6011 Details Swagelok B-SS2-A Details .......and I have a small Soda Stream cylinder. Now as I said I'm a total n00b, I told him I had the small Soda Stream cylinder, and he said he would send me all that I need. I've searched the single items themselves with not much help on assembly. Some of it is pretty straight forward for single items but not as a complete setup from cylinder to tank. First question, what are the things he has sent me? Second, what is their purpose? Third, how do I assemble it all so its a complete system to start using? Last, what else do I need? Any help would be much appreciated.

Ive now got 2 otos and 4 tetras left in the tank. Ive done another water change again today and I normally do a 25% water change every 3-4 days. I have been looking at upgrading but the wallet hasnt been big enough to do so, I managed to get my hands on a valve and regulator for the c02 recently which put me back a little. The small tank is challenging and water conditions change rapidly, but Im usually on top of it all. Thanks for the comments, ill keep up with the water changes. Didnt realise that fin rot would kill so rapidly.