Jennifer

Yeah, I was thinking that too, staggering the lights... but I was going to purchase a fixture that would house two T5 tubes so presumably they will be fixed together. I suppose I could buy two separate fixtures that house only one tube each and stagger their mounting in the hood (I really am no electrical expert here so I don't want to try and make my own fixtures). I will have to price that out and see the price difference. It is a 27 litre difference between the 80 cm wide tank and the 65 cm wide tank......would be so nice to have that additional volume to play with! :bounce:

Yes, I did some legwork yesterday and I see that 90 cm tubes will be too long for the space. Sadly I think I will have to go to the 2 foot tubes. I don't want large areas of shadow at either end of the tank so I will need to reduce it to no more than about 65 cm wide. On the brighter side (no pun!) I found a great template for the light hood, this is just what I was after: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_canopy2.php I will keep you updated with pics when the tank is up! 8) Thanks for all your advice guys, it was really helpful.

Thanks Phoenix. 8) I think I will stay away from MH, sounds like more trouble than I want right now! After doing some legwork I found that my choices for T5 tubes are a 55 cm or an 85 cm, with the fitting it comes to 88 cm and with the hood around that I may just fit into the 90 cm space! So I may just make the tank larger. These are my new dimentions: 90 cm W x 45 cm H x 40 cm D. Multiple benefits there: standard light size, shallow enough for plants AND I don't have to use 10mm glass on the sides, and I have more volume to play with! YAY! :bounce: Now, all I need to worry about is how to make this hood... :roll:

Oops!! Yes, that's what I meant! 85 cm W x 60 cm H x 45 cm D That is all great advice. The space is exactly 90 cm wide. If I got a 3 foot tube, would the fixture and then the hood take it past 90 cm? I am thinking it might... I presume metal halides are quite pricey? I like plants and want to do well, but I am not an expert or anything. Still, I think I may reduce the height a little to improve light penetration, perhaps 50 cm is a good compromise. I wanted more volume in a narrow space but already I am going to have to use 10mm glass because it is so tall! Your hood description sounds like what I am after. Is there a reason why you use MDF over other materials? Also, how did you mount the lights (screws sealed with silicone)? And, what did you do for ventilation and condensation control? That sounds like what I will need to do. I will go have a look for those. Thanks!

Ok, so I am planning on having a tank built that is roughly 85 cm H x 60 cm H x 45 cm D. I want to have a friend make a nice looking, low-profile lighthood to match the wood cabinet. Are there standard sizes for the tubes and fixture that I should be aiming for in a tank this size? I have seen some at the LFS that are 70 cm which seems a bit short but the other size is 86 cm which is too long for the space. I want to make sure replacement tubes are a standard size and would like to consider T5 tubes for the plants if cost permits. Also, how should the light fixture be mounted in the hood so that it is secure and what materials are best to ensure it is not vulnerable to moisture? Does anyone have any plans or 'Dos & Don'ts' for making a nice looking hood? Cheers, J

This thread is exactly what I needed to see right now! I desperately need to upgrade my 60L tank (long story, it is faulty and being returned to the manufaturer...kinda good though since I find it too small now). Anyway, I was seriously considering the Aqua One 850 and the Jewel. As a newbie, I wanted the reassurance of knowing that all the parts were there in those 'kits.' However, I was reluctant for all of the reasons mentioned already here. I want a tank with a cabinet and a hood and it needs to fit in a tight spot in my house so dimensions are important. I briefly considered having one custom made... but I seriously have no idea where to start...or finish! :oops: The lights, the filter... I am totally overwhelmed and have no idea how to choose, but I want room to grow as I get more experience. So...are there people in Chch that make these cabinets/tanks/hoods? Are they really less expensive than the kits? How do I start the process? How do I choose the equipment? What other questions do I need to ask....? :-? :lol: I appreciate any advice you all can give. Jen

Oh thanks, that is GREAT advice. I will head off to Bunnings or something now that I know what to look for! I don't think I have any sag...not sure if that was my posting? Would that plant go well in my tank? Jen

Hi all, I am hoping someone can give me some advice as I am completely in the dark on this one (literally). I have a 65L planted tank that is slightly deeper than it is wide and the light has died this morning. The tank has a hood that holds only one bulb that is about 35cm long (not including the end bits). It was not a special light or anything, it came with the tank I got 3 years ago. I recently had an algae problem and after doing lots of searches and research on here I decided to try a DIY CO2 system and increased fertiliser dosing. It has been doing brilliantly, absolutely all the algae is gone and the plants are doing well. Truth be told, I wasn't really wanting to go too high tech since I don't really know what I am doing here! But I do want something that will continue to promote some growth while not being too expensive. The plants I have are doing reasonably well in my tank, I prune often. Unfortunately, I bought them on appearance and didn't really know what I was getting. :roll: Aside from the ones I already know, I have done my best to identify the others online. They include: Java fern Crypts Anubias (?) Aponogeton (?) Another that has thick red stems and purpleish serrated leaves The tank is lightly stocked with small fish including loaches, tetras, danios and a SAE. I would like to know what light to choose. I looked at the Hollywood website and was completely overwhelmed! :oops: Also, while I am at it, could anyone recommend another type of plant that would do well with what I have? Thank you! Jen

Oh, that is so cool...I just love that idea of natural, realistic aquascapes, especially the 3D effect of the rocks that you have. About a km from my house there is a quarry with that same rock...I am tempted to go pick up a couple but I am sure they would completely overwhelm my 65L tank... may be time to upgrade a little. :roll: Well said. The more I learn about water conditions, the more I realise how much I don't know! :lol:

Wow, that looks so increadible! Great work there Phoenix! Apologies for my ignorance but is the reason that you don't have plants because the fish will eat them? I love the blue and yellow combination, are those fish easy to keep for relative amatures (like :oops: me)?

It is very true, unfortunately. In the veterinary industry we have strict health & safety guidelines for the handling of formaldehyde in the workplace. It is a very useful chemical for preserving tissue samples. I have never personally bought or sold it so not sure of the retail labelling. I can't imagine why there wouldn't be very strict handling instructions tho... :-? Under the HSNO Act in NZ, formaldehyde is a category 1 carcinogen (a proven human carcinogen). The advised maximum daily exposure for any person in NZ is 1ppm (a very, very small amount). If you want more details on the specific cancers (from vapors and direct skin contact) the US government has a useful website: http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/formaldehyde/recognition.html

A 5% v/v solution is 5mls/100mls. A 10% solution of formaldehyde is the strength used to preserve biological tissues samples in the hospital. It will well and truly pickle your skin upon contact and can build up and predispose the skin to cancer. If you smell the lovely tea tree oil vapors from the Melafix, you will most certainly be breathing in toxic formaldehyde. It is very serious stuff and since we know it builds up in tissue, any contact is too much. Take care everyone, and spread the knowledge! :bounce:

Crikey. I am not even close to being a fish expert but I do have a degree in chemistry and I use formalin (a solution of formaldehyde) in preserving biological tissue samples so I am aware of its considerable risks. I would caution anyone against using it unless you absolutely have to. It is a significant carcinogen and even the European Union has just banned its use for embalming people due to its links with cancer deaths among those who use it regularly (the same exact chemical as that used in treating fish). Additionally, formaldehyde is a noxious gas and can seriously damage mucous membranes and respiratory passages in people. It should only be used in a well ventilated area, and all direct skin contact should be avoided. Formalin is an aqueous solution of formaldehyde and while somewhat stabilised it should always be stored in a tightly sealed, light protected container. It should never be cooled to less than 5 degrees C or heated over 70 degrees C as extremely toxic compounds can be produced. I would say that a 1:200 (5mls/1L) solution of hypoclorite (pure non surfactant bleach) would be a better surface disinfectant for nets (not put into IN the fish tank!) since it is very easily rinsed off with water leaving very little, if any, residue (a dechlorinator could also used afterward if one were worried). This type of solution would also be much more effective than formalin at killing pathogens and parasites such as fungi and arthropds. Hypochlorite is corrosive so should only be used as a dip (again, NOT for fish, only for external equipment!) rather than a soaking solution. It also evaporates easily producing caustic fumes so containers should be kept sealed when not in use and replenished regularly with fresh solution. Just my 2 c.

Hmm, I have 3 black neons that were rescued from a tank in a university chemistry lab over 2 years aao. They had lived in that 30L tank for 5 years and when I took them away the water in the lab tank hadn't been cleaned in so long you could hardly see through it and the water had evaporated a third of the way down the tank! I should have taken before and after pics! These fish are 7 years old now (no joke) and they just won't die!! Maybe the black ones are more hardy than the red/blue ones? :-?

I had a ton of snails and could not get rid of them. They were even breeding in my filter!! I then got a couple of loaches...haven't seen another snail since!

Zebra loaches. I have a tetra that has one eye and the loaches always try to come up on his blind side to bite him (I am pretty sure they are trying to bite him - they make this clicking noise when they bite their frozen food and they make that same noise when they come up to the tetra)! Very strange....the loaches don't seem agressive at all, but they do constantly try to approach other fish in the tank. All the fish in the tank are very active. In this 70L tank I have: 2 x gold zebra danios 2 x pearl danios 3 x black neons 1 x tetra (looks like an emperor but not sure, he was a 'rescue' case :roll: ) 2 x zebra loaches 1 x CAE (temp replacment for the beautiful gold bristlenose I lost) Here's a close up pic:

Wow ...do you have much attrition? I mean, my loaches look ready to take out the tetras at the best of times. The last time I went away for 5 days I had someone come in on the 3rd day to feed half a cube of frozen brine shrimp but otherwise didn't feed them. When I came back my Borneo suckers were gone (no, I am not getting more of those takeaways for the loaches)!

Thanks all, much appreciated for your good advice. J

Oh thanks, I would like to attend the meeting! I see why it would be important to add Java Moss...I have live plants and wouldn't want them to be eaten too much. So, what is the 'proper' amount to feed when I am not on holiday? I have heard so many differing opinions...

I am relatively new to these boards. I have had tropical freshwater tanks for 15 years but still feel so uninformed....especially after reading so many of these great posts! :roll: Anyway, I am very careful not to overfeed - and check my chemistry often to be sure - but how much should I be feeding? How much is too little? I have heard so many conflicting stories over the years it is hard to know what is right. Also, I was reading the posts in the Freshwater forum about feeding ice blocks and was amazed to hear that some fish can live so long without food. Are there any rules on this? Over the years I have often heard that I can just leave my tanks for a few days and they will be ok, but I always 'chicken out' at the last minute and call someone in to feed while I am away. Jen

Cheers. I will begin the water changes tomorrow and see how he goes. Stay tuned! Jen

Oh, so don't add any salt at all? Would it be suitable to keep the water clean by doing 50% water changes daily? Or is there a more suitable regime? Also, should I add any water conditioners or anything like Melafix? He sems to have perked up a bit, although he isn't eating now. Cheers, Jen

I have moved him to a hospital tank and have begun the salt bath. I will keep you all posted. Cheers, Jen

Oh, that was quite useful. According to the article a 3 week 'bath' treatment involves adding about 1 teaspoon per 4L and then do a 25% water change per week (not adding any more salt). I will give it a go and hopefully he will recover! Jen

Thanks for the advice. Can you tell me, how much salt do I add? I presume the amount differs for tanks with live plants? i.e, do I need to remove the plants to provide the best treatment? Jen