kiwibrick

Is the pool filter sand more course than normal builders sand?

Yep :lol: :lol: :lol:

I have been grappling with this problem myself recently, I have been wanting to set up a second tank, but since we are on tank water I have been trying to come up with ways to recycle or scrub the waterchange water since water is at a premium for me. I was thinking about setting up a sort of outdoor natural distiller powered by the sun where I could dump my WC water into it and then reclaim at least a good portion of the water to use again. But recently I have been investigating using an algae scrubber which seems like the easier and cleaner solution, links to threads on MFK here, http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forum ... p?t=180385 http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forum ... p?t=115444 Hopefully I will set up and test one of these in the next few weeks, it probably won't completely eliminate WC but should significantly reduce the volume of them.

Angels

Not quite true, I'm a structural engineer and deal with this sort of thing all day long. Liveload on a domestic floor is 1.5kPa(150kg per sq m), and that is a temporary load only ie. people Domestic floor joists generally aren't designed for any permanent (deadload) loads which a fish tank is. Seeing that the tank is 2.1m long and 670litres, I guessed the width of the tank at 0.6m, so the base would be 1.26sqm, that gives a load of 5.3kPa, way above the liveload we use. If the tank is installed over the bearer it will 'probably' be ok as the tank is likely to be over 2 piles and most of the weight will be going straight into the bearer and not onto the joists, the bearer only looks to be a 100x75 though which is on the small side for this job I would think.

:lol: It's possible those 2 angels are fish I spawned! How old are they?

There would have been some white ones, but the pair will eat them off while they are fanning the eggs and caring for them, the pair I have are very good parents that way. I left my breeding pair in with their fry for quite a few weeks, it's quite amusing watching them first catch any wrigglers and put them back on the slate, and then once they are free swimming they would herd them into a tight group to keep them safe. I used a grey/black coloured clay tile I found at mitre 10 for my laying site, was only a couple of bucks and works great, my pair like it.

BMW 330Ci Merc C180 or C200 kompressor Jag X-type or S-type Volvo S80 or S60 or C70, all fwd though but all available in turbo form

Have you tested the tap water, I found recently that the ph of the tap water out west where I live went quite alkaline for a while, I'm not sure if it has moved back to 7ish now though as I have moved and am on tank water now.

I have a 220litre tank, and while it comes in over the normal liveload that the floor is designed for (1.5kPa) strength wise it makes the floor quite bouncy. When I first set it up if you stood or walked past the front of the tank it got quite a wobble, not very reassuring, and while I was not worried about the floor actually failing the wobble of the tank wasn't good, so all I did was get under the house and prop the joists that were supporting the tank at the front of the tank, now it's not a proper foundation but it stops the bounce in the floor at the tank.

I used the temperature method very effectively in my community tank with 6 clown loaches. A couple of the smaller ones had white spot quite badly, so I searched around a bit and decided to use the temperature only method, since they are quite sensitive to meds. Over the course of a couple of days I raised the temperature to 30deg, and made sure to add more agitation to keep the oxygen levels up, which seemed to work since my Gourami's and Betta didn't show any signs of stress. It took probably a week for all the whitespot to disappear off the loaches (only the loaches had the whitespot) and then as advised in the article I found, I kept the temp at 30deg for 2 weeks after the last whitespot had gone to make sure they were all dead, and I haven't had any white spot since (this was about 3 months ago). The raised temperature does indeed speed up the life cycle of the whitespot, but most importantly it stops the reproductive cycle, it doesn't kill them but they can't reproduce in temperatures over 29deg, so once they detach from the fish and fall to the bottom they can't reproduce so it stops the cycle, thats why it was recommended to keep the temp at 30deg for 2 weeks after the last one was spotted to make sure none are lurking anywhere waiting to reinfect the tank.

I'm pretty sure they have 1 at the Bird Barn, or did.