dragonz1833

water dragons!!!!

i hope its in the one from botany animates ive told them and they pretty much laughed at me

any charmeleon ones??

thought i might share breeding waxmoths from a source on the net seems good to me Breeding Waxmoths Beekeepers are some of the only individuals that have a keen interest in the greater wax moth. This is due to the fact that many beekeepers lose productive honeycombs to wax worms each year. Wax worms are the larvae stage of the greater wax moth. Their primary food sources are pollen, bee larvae casing, and bees’ wax. These are the key components of the honeycombs that house honey as well as the honeybees. Most infestations are with abandoned honeycombs or those that have weak colonies residing there. The female greater wax moth lays eggs within crevices of the honeycomb and the greater wax worm hatches. It begins to burrow and dig throughout the honeycomb leaving a silken path in its wake. These holes and burrows weaken the structure of the honeycomb and cause leakage of the honey itself. Wax worms are known as pests for this reason. To the common gecko owner, they are known as reptile food. Materials Required - Breeding Waxworms • Bran/granular dog food/baby cereal • Honey • 5-gallon tank/sweater box/1-gallon jar (glass) • Tape • Escape proof top/fine mesh screening • Wax paper • Rubber bands Breeding Container Preparation - Breeding Waxworms The setup that we will use for breeding wax worms will be simple in design and requires absolute minimal maintenance. These breeding environments are designed to self contain the wax worms from egg to adult. The only maintenance that is necessary is when there is a build up of mold and a new container is required or the old container has been disinfected. We need to begin by creating a substrate that will line the bottom of the container that you have chosen. We are going to create an artificial honeycomb for this purpose. Take whichever food source you have decided to use and place it in a bowl or mixer. Slowly pour in some honey, mixing them together as you go. You want to create a thick paste that is not overly moist by the honey. The consistency will be determined by the amount of honey that you have used. Try to create a soft, thick paste. Once you are comfortable with your mixture, place it on some wax paper. Make sure that you have made enough to cover the entire bottom of the container. It should be at least one inch thick. Leave the mixture on the wax paper and allow it to harden while you prepare the rest of the container. The next step will prove to be the most important. We are now going to create the cover to our container. Our container needs to be well ventilated so that no condensation can form. It also needs to be tight enough so that NO wax worms or wax moths can escape. Moths that escape will attempt to breed within your home. This could lead to an infestation. (Escapees would eventually die off due to lack of food.) The best ways to contain these insects are by using aluminum window mesh screening. If you have decided to use a tank, it probably has a cover that goes over it. You must cover all the openings with the mesh screening. Use the tape to secure the screening. Make sure that there are NO escape hatches. Wax worms can climb glass so you must make sure that they cannot escape. If you don’t have a cover for your container, then just do the following. Place the screening over the top of the container. Pull it tight and place a rubber band around the opening. Your screening should now be covering the opening and should be secured by the rubber band. Cut off any extra screening that is there leaving two inches of extra screening around the opening. This type of cover is the most secure method for preventing escapes while still allowing for proper ventilation. If the substrate has hardened adequately, you now need to remove it from the wax paper and break it into small pieces so that it covers the bottom of the container. (It will still be somewhat sticky.) Take some more wax paper and crinkle it into balls. Drop the balls on top of the substrate. This is where the moths will lay their eggs. Now take 25 wax worms and drop them in. Be sure to place the cover on the container. Place the container in a warm, dry part of your home and place a towel over the container so that the container is dark. General Maintenance - Breeding Waxworms The only true maintenance that is required with these simple creatures is a general cleanup of the insects. It is inevitable that some of these insects will die before they reach adulthood. They are noticeably black in color. They should be removed as soon as they are noticed. Periodically you will need to do an overhaul on the container. Remove all the insects in the container and place them in a temporary container. Empty the contents of the container into the trash. You will need to prepare a fresh batch of artificial honeycomb. With a solution of 1 part bleach and 2 parts water, soak the container. While the container is soaking, wipe out any debris and continue to soak for 10 minutes. Rinse the container thoroughly. You don’t want any left over bleach to contaminate and destroy your insect cultivation. Now wipe the container dry and replace the “honeycomb”. Toss the insects back in and your officially back in business. Feeding - Breeding Waxworms One of the best characteristics of this type of insect cultivation is that there is no feeding involved. The containers substrate is an excellent food source. This allows the container to be self sufficient without any external interference or daily requirements. Time Frames - Breeding Waxworms The time frames for these insects are never accurate. Temperature, environment, etc. are all factors that help to determine how long these insects will live, grow, and reproduce. The adult greater wax moth will live for roughly one week. They can live much longer if the temperatures, environment, etc. are suitable. Them living longer is not a concern for the breeders of these insects. In the short week that they are alive, the female can lay as many as 1000 eggs. The eggs will incubate for a short period of time. The temperature within the container also determines egg incubation. Within the first week that the eggs have hatched, they begin to eat and tunnel their way through the substrate that you have provided. At optimal growth rates, these insects will be large enough to feed within as little as 15 days. Since the temperatures that these insects are kept in plays such a crucial role in their development and growth, the life span for your colony cannot be determined. The optimal temperature for your colony would be 80-90 degrees. Additional Notes - Breeding Waxworms You can prolong the lives of extra wax worms by placing them in a cooler area of your home. Refrigeration is not recommended because the temperatures are too low and will ultimately kill the wax worms or severely decrease their life span. Keeping your extra insects at a constant 60 degrees can add a significant amount of time to their lives. When removing insects to be fed to your gecko, be extra cautious that no wax moths escape. It would be a good idea if the removal of the insects were contained to a small room such as a bathroom. If any moths were to escape, they would be contained and easily captured.

lol thats pretty cool

what is that?

but if anyone has a snake or chameleon for sale lol pm me lololol

rolly dog toilet paper with free soft toy

ok thanks so wont need to worry to much then even though they are huge??? just abit worried as i fed one to a bearded dragon that escaped into there enclosure and just about killed the dragon

hi just recieved some large locusts would you feed them to water dragons adults seem to hard for me

i have had bearded dragons but no water dragons prob best to ask living art for that side of things he will be the one i would ask great knowledge that man has

also lizards like to be on there own (water dragons not sure about others) but dont like to be handled as much as bearded dragons

the bg one would house a bearded dragon and my favourite water dragon babys till its bigger then you can put the water dragons outside and water dragons are so much easier to look after etc not as much heat etc as beareded dragons

yeah they are for sure if water dragons can go in them anything can

i know ppl that have no probs at all as long as u got correct heating etc u will be fine

yeah ill give stripping ago when do i know when to strip though

i dont like do that seems mean

oh ok they are just sunshine peacocks if i add more females wouldnt they end up just eating each others babys though??

i have heaps of bio balls if ya want them i think they are anyway blue things

hi what can i put in a 150L planted tank with 1 male and two females (breeding) or just leave them by themselves?

well im a four letter per word man myself

thanks ppl just reread missed heaps lol pages got away on me and repto i do need more dragonz especially babys

i will also like to add i dont want to bred them to sell i mainly want to bred as i will keep most of them (as much as i can afford to look after realisticly) as i love the hobby and want to bred them for my own pleasure (hobby) not just cause i want nz riddled with the dragons (like bearded dragons) if that makes sense

so back to the point do i have to force my water dragons into brumation (hibernation) if so what is the best way to my understanding with WATER DRAGONS NOT BEARDED i just leave them in the enclosure leave the lights etc on feed them everyday, every second day and they will slowly slow down eating (mine are the oposite athe moment*waste desposils*) all by them selves and eventually stop, is that correct then just turn lights off till it gets warmer and the start waking up?one of my females always goes to sleep and sometimes will only come out for few hours then sleep then the other one has been doing it but up more than the other one during the day but my male still does his own thing so does that mean they will only do roughly one at a time and should i just keep feeding them or what ? thanks

yeah i.d let me know how u get on ill be very keen on microchipping my dragons