Rob

Thanks for the tip Interfecus - I hadn't tried that, I have now but unfortunately still no luck.

I'll see what I can do regarding a more definite ID Caryl, I've got a CD on Rainbowfish that has pictures of regional variations - I just need to find a computer still running Windows 98 (there are some in at work) as it doesn't work on later versions of Windows.

It does depend on what size container you've got them set up in - the containers I use are about 9cm in diameter - I'd expect that it would take longer in something like an icecream container. Other things that will have an affect are how strong or weak the seeding spoonful was and also how damp the new culture is (I find that a mix that's on the dry side will take longer to get to the climbing the walls stage). I usually check how wet/dry the mix looks a day after I set it up - sprinkling on the dry yeast soaks up some of the moisture so what started out looking OK actually may need a little more water - if it does need more water I just use a water spray bottle and mist the culture.

I generally see them starting to climb the sides after 3-4 days.

The top ones were retailing as "red tailed/finned maccullochi" but this was just a convenient label put on them by some wholesaler IMO - there is a redfinned variety though they still have black lines running the length of the body (and the lines are both above and below the mid line).

The bottom one definitely looks like a M. Maccullochi (I'm pretty certain on that one). The first one I don't think is maccullochi, I also doubt nigrans. The mix of fine orange and brown lines has more in common with M. exquisita and M. papuae - admittedly they're not exact matches with pictures on the internet - there is a lot of regional variation in rainbowfish colouring though.

If you already have a microworm culture then just start up a new one - seeding it with a spoonful of 'goop' from the old one - providing there's still at least some movement in the bottom of the container you shouldn't have any problems. This article has some details of a possible culture medium: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/microworms.0.html

Go here for the down loads http://www.fnzas.org.nz/497.0.html

Kim's right - John Eastwood is an amusing guy - he can be detrimental to your wallet though as he's an excellent auctioneer.

Hi Warren - I know the show info said that it's open ie all classes. Is that the general classes or are you including some of the subclasses (eg D = cichlid general class, Da = angels, Db = Dwarf, Dc = rift lake)? Are you happy to accept entries in the breeders and plant classes? On the entry form there is also a fish length column - I'm not sure what info is required: the length as listed in show size sheets or the length of the fish actually being entered? Sorry for all the questions

The address is 4 Te Aroha St. It's the two story building one section back (ie towards the round-a-bout) from the church on the corner - parking is in the church carpark though.

Warren - when do we have to let you know about dinner attendance and also the booking of the behind the scenes tour at the National Aquarium?

I'd probably opt for the 10mm - don't want any repeats. I'd also have polystyrene in the tank underneath the larger rocks to minimise any point contacts from the rocks - then the polystyrene can be covered up with gravel. Also it's often recommended to place the stones directly on the base (with the polystrene I like to use) rather than on top of the gravel - as fish often like to shift gravel - which will then destablise the rock structure.

Yes - I'll be down in Napier for the show - I'll pass it along then. May be an idea to send me a reminder message closer to the time.

The way that they desexed grass carp (when they were doing it - they don't bother any more) was to expose the eggs to high pressure. Which, as Dogmatix mentioned, created triploid fish - which are incapable of producing viable eggs.

Hi Caryl, your welcome to my copy of 1999-2000, I also have 2001-2002 though I have scribbled on that one.

If only it were a D1 bag you'd have yourself an offer.

Gold saum is also known as a Green Terror - they're related to Blue Acara. Scientific name for Gold saum is Aequidens rivulatus.

I've grown adult brine shrimp in the past - the didn't do any good just using the table salt mix that you can hatch them in. To raise them on you need real seawater or artificial seawater (like you'd use in a marine tank).

Just remember that rainbows will happily interbreed so you should only have once species at a time in the breeding tank.

As has been said before - rule of thumb is that you can probably get half the retail price. As far as what fish to breed to make money (assuming that your not trying to make a living from it just get a few dollars coming in) - good quality guppies, neon tetras, mid price range cory's or white clouds would be my bet - not particularly expensive but high numbers. Also I'd stick to fish that can fit into community tank situations - as that is what the majority of fish keepers have.

Many fish eggs will go white when they are infertile (usually over the course of a couple of days after being laid) - going darker is fine as that's expected as the embryo develop. If left, the infertile eggs will start to fungus - this fungus can spread to the fertile eggs and damage them. I personally would remove any eggs that are going white - if you'd prefer not to take that step yet, then at least seperate the two types of eggs to opposite ends of your net enclosure.

Hi - I'm also after some diatom filter bags. That site that Alan gave the link for may be OK - need to have minimum order of $50 - the filter bags are $13 each - if we both got two of them that would put us over the threshold - though the prices for shipping seem steep and no way am I giving the bank $20 for wiring the money.

In your first picture what are those yellow clusters to the top left and right - they're the right colour for bristlenose eggs.

Some oxygen weeds are banned some (one?) are allowed. The three most common oxy weeds in NZ are Egeria densa, Lagarosiphon major and Elodea canadensis. The Egeria and Lagarosiphon are listed in the national plant pest accord and are hence illegal to sell etc. The Elodea is the one that is allowed to be sold - it sounded like the reason that it is allowed to be sold is that it's that wide spread and established already that it would have been a waste of time to ban it. The thing about pest plants is that there are the ones that are banned nation wide - but then various regional councils ban others as they are considered a problem just in that region - that's currently why all vallisneria is banned in the Waikato but you can buy it up in Auckland.