Jump to content

Angela

Members
  • Posts

    -2
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Angela's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

2

Reputation

  1. Best Practice Guide to Disposing of Sick, Unwanted or Dead Fish Unwanted fish should be re homed with another private fish keeper. In some cases, the local fish shop can advise on people looking for a particular fish, so it pays to ask around. If you cannot find anyone local to take your unwanted fish, try asking around on local fish forums or post a notice on TradeMe. In the worst case scenario, if you can’t find anyone to take your fish, you can consider humane euthanasia. If you need to euthanize a fish, it is best to have the procedure performed by a qualified veterinarian using lethal injection. If this option is not available to you, you can use clove oil which is easily obtained by a local chemist. To do this, capture the fish and put it into a small container filled with a measured amount of tank water. Add at least 5 drops of clove oil per litre of water and leave the fish in a quiet area for about an hour. It will slowly lose consciousness and stop breathing. Eventually it will die. Dead fish can pose disease risks to our waterways so it is important to dispose of them properly. Despite common trends, it is not ideal to flush dead fish down the toilet or drain since this water can end up in our waterways. It is better to dispose of dead fish into the household rubbish or landfill after first sealing them in a plastic bag or wrapping them in paper.
  2. Best Practice Guide to Fishroom Hygiene The first rule of thumb when it comes to fishkeeping is to quarantine all new fish. Inspect any new fish for signs of disease and if they look ill, avoid taking them onto your premises at all. If the fish look healthy, it still pays to quarantine them for at least 30 days. A well prepared quarantine area will have its own set of equipment that is only used for quarantine purposes. To prevent spread of disease in your quarantine area: 1. Keep all equipment used in the quarantine area in the quarantine area. 2. Handle quarantine animals after all other animals and only when necessary. 3. Wear personal protective gear like long gloves, gumboots and plastic aprons. 4. Disinfect equipment like feeding supplies, nets, buckets and hoses using Virkon or chlorine bleach. 5. Use the proper dose rate for disinfectants and replace regularly as they lose effectiveness after mixing. 6. Disinfect hands and shoes before leaving the quarantine area. 7. Disinfect all waste water. 8. Dispose of dead fish by sealing them in a plastic bag and putting them into the household rubbish or landfill. Never flush fish down the toilet or down drains or waterways. 9. After the quarantine period is up, disinfect the tank and all tank equipment before storing. Consult an aquatic veterinarian for advice on diagnosis and treatment of diseases.
  3. Best Practice Guide to Eco-Safe Water Changes For hobbyists, disposal of water from our regular water changes requires some care to help prevent spread of aquatic diseases in New Zealand waterways. In an ideal world, it is best not to dispose of untreated waste water down the drain as it goes directly into our waterways. Ideally, you should always treat waste water with a disinfectant like chlorine bleach (Janola) to kill bacteria and viruses. As chlorine is highly toxic to fishes, chlorine should never be added directly to the aquarium unless the tank is completely empty of livestock. To disinfect waste water, remove water into a holding barrel and add 5mls of bleach per litre of water (or 1-5mg/L). Let the water sit in the barrel for about an hour. After the hour has passed, the water is then then safe to dispose of down the drain. If you wish to use the water on your lawn or ornamental garden instead, you can add a dechlorinator like Seachem Prime after the hour has passed, then just pour the water out onto the lawn as needed. If you are not able to dechlorinate your tank water, try to avoid disposing of water down the drain as this will risk spreading aquatic disease in our waterways. Instead, freshwater can safely be added to your ornamental garden or lawn (but avoid adding it to your vegetable garden or disposing of it near drains or waterways).
  4. YOUR FIRST FISHES AND CORALS Written by: tHEcONCH INTRODUCTION After your tank has cycled thoroughly it is time for one of the best moments in setting up a new tank – adding the first livestock. By now you will have had plenty of time to decide what fishes or corals you want to keep as you watched brown diatoms grow in your tank, and then green hair-like algae, then red cyanobacteria all come and go from your tank. You will have researched their needs, and you will have styled your rockwork accordingly. You will have tested the water to make absolutely sure that there is absolutely no ammonia or nitrite remaining in your tank, and after that you will have done a substantial water change (at least 50%) and confirmed that your tank is a stable 26 degrees with a specific gravity of 1.025 – 1.026. Now test everything again. You must be absolutely certain your tank is ready – if in doubt, wait. GOOD FIRST CHOICES A new tank is a hard environment for any fish or coral. Because it is new the populations of beneficial bacteria that process waste and excess food aren’t particularly large and they grow slowly at the best of times. Certain small creatures that some fish rely on for food won’t be present in large enough numbers or even at all. Corals are particularly sensitive to changes in the chemical values of your water so the first fish or coral into your tank must be hardy enough to not just survive, but not suffer as your tank continues to mature. Corals Because they are tolerant of less than ideal lighting and water conditions some good first corals are: Xenia - Xenia are often the first corals to colonise new habitats in the wild, and are thought to absorb nitrates – one of the common waste products in a new tank. Some pulse their tentacles open and shut. Mushrooms (Coralimorphs) - Mushrooms are reasonably hardy and tolerate lower levels of light than most corals. They come in many colours and textures, and are relatively cheap (although some others are very rare and expensive in New Zealand) Green Star Polyps (Pachyclavularia) - A very hardy, colourful, and adaptable coral that will grow over both rock and sand, green star polyps are reasonably priced and often available. Fish Because they are reasonably hardy, not too territorial, and not too expensive good first fish are: Chromis – Although not the most hardy fish, Chromis are very colourful, active, and one of the cheaper marine fish available in New Zealand. Clown fish – Clown fish are colourful little characters and relatively hardy, especially captive bred specimens. Contrary to popular belief they do not need an Anemone to survive, and will often adopt a piece of Xenia of even a power cord instead. BAD CHOICES Poor first fish choices are: Damsels – although often recommended because they are cheap and hardy, all Damsels are aggressive, territorial, and almost impossible to re-home. Don’t be tempted. Mandarins, Butterfly, and Angel Fish – although staggeringly beautiful, all should be avoided as a first fish as they are simply not hardy enough and may require good populations of live food, and / or perfect water conditions. Wait until your tank is at least six months old, or in the case of Mandarins and Copperband Butterflys at least a year. Regretably the hobby is littered with stories of novice keepers who ended up killing all of their fish because they were just too impatient. Don't be that person. Poor first corals include: SPS (Small Polyped Stoney) corals – sometimes called ‘coloured sticks’, these corals require exacting conditions to survive. LPS corals. Although some LPS (Large Polyped Stoney) corals may be suitable if you have a good understanding of water chemistry, and particularly calcium levels, many are not – talk to other reefkeepers before selecting an LPS corals. PUTTING THEM IN YOUR TANK There are a couple of good ways to introduce livestock to your tank. The easiest and most common is to float the bag in your tank for about 10 minutes so that the water temperatures equalise, then carefully open the bag every few minutes and add a little tank water to the bag each time. Once full, tip the bag up and let the fish swim out or carefully place the coral into position (you’ll know where, because you will have researched it and know if it needs low light, high flow, etc). The problem with this method is that you can inadvertently add all sorts of things into your tank from the shop’s water. A better method is to use a new Tupperware style container and carefully place your livestock and shop water into it. Tip out a little shop water every few minutes and add back a little water from your tank. Once you have exchanged virtually all of it carefully lift out your livestock and place it into your tank. Rather than a net use a glass or similar to catch your fish. Don’t feed straight away – wait until the next morning, and when you feed just give a minimal amount of food. It is very important to but keep a close eye on your water parameters over the next week or so, because the introduction of livestock can cause your tank to ‘mini-cycle’ as the added waste products from the livestock and food exceed the beneficial bacteria’s ability to process it – be ready to do substantial water changes if you detect even a trace of Ammonia. Remember that corals and fishes are living creatures. Whichever spark your interest be sure to do plenty of research before you buy so you know what they need to survive - they are far more interesting alive than dead. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission
  5. WARNING SIGNS AND COMMON BEGINNER MISTAKES Written by: tHEcONCH THE BIGGEST PROBLEM OF ALL - BEING IMPATIENT Setting up a marine aquarium is exciting and beginners are often tempted to buy cheaper equipment (or not buy certain equipment at all), chuck everything in their tank as quickly as they can, and hope for the best. Unfortunately that is a recipe for disaster. Setting up a marine tank simply cannot be rushed. There are no corners to cut. Patience is necessary with just about anything that you do with a marine aquarium, so DON’T RUSH IT. OVERSTOCKING A problem that goes hand-in-hand with rushing it - cramming too much livestock into your tank too soon, or buying fish that are simply too large for your tank and equipment to handle. Overstocking, or adding ‘just one more fish’ will doom all of your fish to a horrible death. Beginners will often blame the rapid decline and death of their fish on a disease or some other factor, but the reality is that marine fish seldom get sick in an appropriately stocked tank.DON’T OVERSTOCK YOUR TANK. OVERFEEDING Most beginners grossly over-estimate how much food they should feed their fish and invertebrates. Little Nemo dancing around hoping you’ll feed him is hard to ignore, but uneaten food just pollutes your tank. It’s far better to feed a small amount of good quality food (which is often more expensive) than larger amounts of cheaper stuff. DON’T OVERFEED. INADEQUATE SKIMMING AND CIRCULATION Skimmers are expensive. Good skimmers are really expensive. Likewise circulation pumps and the like can be pricey. Because of this beginners often buy cheaper skimmers and pumps that simply don’t work very well or simply aren’t big enough for the tank or livestock they want to keep. Don’t cut corners with cheap equipment ‘to get started’. Without buying good quality gear the chances of your aquarium succeeding are greatly diminished, so BUY GOOD QUALITY GEAR. MISDIAGNOSING AND BLAMING DISEASE FOR PROBLEMS Unlike a lot of other countries, New Zealand has strict quarantine procedures for imported live fish. Very few, if any, fish that are offered for sale will actually be sick. That is not to say that they won’t carry diseases or minor infestations of parasites (many fish tolerate small white-spot infections in their gills their entire lives) but their own immune systems will suppress the infection and prevent it spreading so long as they are kept in an appropriately stocked and well maintained tank. If they are kept in poor conditions (like an insufficiently cycled tank), however, their immune system will fail and the disease will spread to the other stressed fish in the tank. If an outbreak occurs it is very likely because all the fish are suffering from poor conditions, not because of the disease itself. To make matters worse, beginners often panic and start throwing various medications into their tank to ‘kill the disease’, when what they really need to do is admit their own failings and fix whatever it is that is stressing the fish in the first place. TREAT THE CAUSE, NOT THE SYMPTOM. BUYING LIVESTOCK WITHOUT KNOWING HOW TO KEEP THEM Many fish and corals require special conditions and foods – and they aren’t necessarily compatible with each other. Some will attack others; others will simply starve to death without specialist feeding. Before buying anything, take the time to learn about it’s particular requirements, otherwise you are wasting your money and probably dooming it to a horrible death. NEVER BUY ON IMPULSE. LACK OF MAINTENANCE Well-maintained marine tanks are a pleasure to keep and their keepers seldom have problems with disease outbreaks. Beginners often underestimate the cost of buying good quality equipment at the outset and the cost of salt, power, and test kits that are essential in order to keep a well maintained tank. They also underestimate the time needed to maintain a tank. Be realistic about the time and money it will take, and above all else, DO REGULAR WATER CHANGES.So if you: DON’T RUSH IT DON’T OVERSTOCK YOUR TANK DON’T OVERFEED BUY GOOD QUALITY GEAR TREAT THE CAUSE, NOT THE SYMPTOM NEVER BUY ON IMPULSE DO REGULAR WATER CHANGES you'll get off to a good start to a very pleasurable hobby. Good luck. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission
  6. CYCLING NEW ROCK AND TANKSWritten by: tHEcONCHINTRODUCTIONCycling rock and tanks can be a bit of a mystery for beginners. Cycling and the 'Nitrogen Cycle' are pretty well covered by other sources, but the other stages that tanks and rock usually pass through at the same time aren't often mentioned and can cause a bit of anxiety to those starting out. Many books and internet threads refer to using 'live rock'. Overseas you can buy 'live rock' which has all sorts of marine algae, bacteria, and little critters on it which greatly speeds up the process - here in New Zealand most of us have to make our own from dead coral rubble as we cycle up the tank. I have recently started a new tank and thought it might be useful for some of you to see pictures of the stages new rock and tanks usually go through so that you understand what is happening and don't panic too much. I will add to this as time passes and the rock matures into proper live rock with marine algae and random flora and fauna. The rock in the picture was 'cooked' i.e. kept in an unlit tank of saltwater for a few weeks to kill off/remove as much of the (decomposing) organic matter as possible, then placed into a brand new tank with all the circulation pumps and lighting on. You can use uncooked / uncured rock (its cheaper and you can get underway immediately), but that will also increase the severity of each stage which will in turn greatly extend the time taken to progress through each stage (I'd tripple the indicative times I've given below)Stage One:The rock is still mostly bright white, devoid of pretty much anything living other than Diatoms which have begun to colonise on the parts of the rock exposed to light (they are photosynthetic organisms). The nitrogen cycle is just beginning. Correspondingly the water values for the tank read Ammonia 1ppm , Nitrite 0.2, and Nitrate 0. Expect this stage to be reached after about 3 days.Stage Two:The rock is now covered in a thick layer of Diatoms. Bubbles rise up from the rock as a by-product of photosynthesis. The water is rather hazy and the water values for the tank read Ammonia 0.1ppm , Nitrite 0.2, and Nitrate 1. Expect this stage to occur from 5 - 10 days, and to last upward of a further 2 - 10 days depending upon the quality of your equipment. Stage Three:The Diatoms have begun to receed as they have exhausted the nutrients in the water. Tiny Copepods have been introduced to the tank through a small amount of 'live sand' and have begun to colonise the rock. The water values for the tank read Ammonia 0ppm , Nitrite 0, and Nitrate 1. The tank and rock are now 'cycled' and ready for livestock. The time taken to reach this stage will depend upon a number of factors, but most tanks will take about two weeks - others with less powerful skimmers, circulation and light may take closer to a month or even longer if uncooked / dirty rock was used. The first water change should now be made - if you do one prior to this then your water parameter readings will be more favourable, but your population of beneficial bacteria will also be small, causing the process to restart (mini-cycle) once the first livestock is added.Stage 4:Corals have now been placed temporarily on the rock so that they can be observed and repositioned if they show signs of stress (from unsuitable light, flow, or other parameters). Mushrooms (Coralimorphs) and Zooanthids are a good choice at this stage as they are relatively hardy and can tolerate fluctuations in water quality. A few Diatoms remain, but simple forms of green algae are now appearing on the aquarium glass and filamentous green algae has begun to grow in some places on the rock. The green algae will remain from anywhere upward of a month, and in many cases never completely goes away. Although unsightly, having some green algae in your tank is not necessarily a bad thing as it provides shelter for small organisms and food for some sorts of fish. It will, however, complete with Coral for light and space and needs to be kept in check.Stage 5:Fish and more corals have now been introduced to the tank. All water values are still favourable, however the influx of nutrients in the form of fish food, fish poo, and slime form corals has resulted in Diatoms and reddish coloured Cyanobacteria reappearing on the rock, and a think layer of Diatoms have reappeared on the sand. Although your tank and rock is cycled it is important to keep testing for Ammonia and Nitrite as the sudden increase in the bio-load on the tank can cause spikes or a 'mini-cycle' as the growth of the bacterial colonies lags behind the increase in polutants. Be prepared to reduce feeding and make water changes if either are detected at more than a trace level. This stage will last anywhere between 3 - 5 weeks depending upon your equipment and the number of fish introduced, feeding etc. If you want to speed things up a little, syphon up the 'mats' of Diatoms and either discard, or wash in freshwater and return the sand to the tank.Stage 6:Coraline algae has begun to displace the diatoms, cyanobacteria, and green algae. The corals have also improved in colour, indicating that water and tank conditions have largely stabilised. Expect this stage to take upward of two months to be reached. Assuming regular partial water changes are made and water parameters are maintained at correct levels, the coraline algae will continue to grow and the rock generally 'clean up'. A footnote: Cycling means using new rock or dry rock basically the bacterial population has not established fully. The idea is that the cycle must complete ie the bacteria population must reach maximum stable levels. Cycling can occur in the dark or under light. Cooking (hate the term personally) consists of taking live rock out of an existing tank. ie it is still alive and placing in a dark container with good skimming and circulation. The idea is that nuisance algae will die off and the beneficial bacteria gets a chance to catch up and consume all the nutrients in the rock.© This item may not be reproduced without written permission
  7. Goldfish care fact sheet Goldfish make great pets and with regular feeding and tank maintenance they can live for over 10 years. Under good conditions in a large tank some varieties can grow to 30 cm. Environment - Goldfish are coldwater fish and do best at 18 to 23° Celsius and a pH of about 7.2 (water that is very slightly alkaline). - Fish tanks are preferable to goldfish bowls as they have a larger surface area for gas exchange and allow more room to swim. Pick a tank that is appropriate for the size of your goldfish. Don’t overstock. You are better off with 1 or 2 healthy fish than 3 or 4 unhealthy ones. - Place your tank in a stable area away from fresh breezes (which can cause the temperature to change quickly), loud noises, vibrations, and direct sunlight (this can cause algae problems and overheating during summer). Try not to tap on the glass as this may frighten your goldfish. - Fish tank cycling. It is always best to allow your tank to cycle before you fully stock your tank. The means that the nitrogen cycle in which good bacteria break down harmful waste (mainly ammonia and nitrites) from fish and uneaten food is working properly and is stable. It can take several weeks to cycle a fish tank but you can speed up the process using a product such as Stress Zyme or Cycle which contains millions of good bacteria. Always understock a newly cycled tank and it is a good idea to do more frequent water changes (see below) until the good bacteria are working well and is stable. There are plenty of good articles on the internet on how to cycle a fishtank. - Filtration. Goldfish produce a lot of waste so it is useful to provide a filter, particularly if you have a few goldfish or one or two larger goldfish. Clean your filter twice a month. - Aeration. Goldfish use a lot of oxygen from the water. If your goldfish is gulping for air at the surface you probably don’t have enough oxygen in your tank. A good filter should provide enough aeration but you may want to add a small airpump and an airstone. - Decorations. Use only aquarium safe decorations and choose ones that don’t have sharp edges or places they can’t get stuck in. Some decorations such as driftwood, coral and shells can make the tank more acidic or alkaline. - Substrate. Many people like to have gravel in their tank. Gravel harbours good bacteria and looks great, however, it also provides areas for left-over food and fish waste to build up. Clean your gravel weekly with a gravel vac. Goldfish will suck food of the bottom when feeding and are also likely to suck in gravel. Make sure the gravel has no sharp edges and choose gravel that is large enough that your goldfish can’t get it stuck in its mouths. - Lighting. In a well lit room lighting is probably not necessary. However if you are keeping plants in the tank or want to see your fish more clearly then you may want to add a light. - Plants. Coldwater plants can look great in your tank but goldfish like eating many types. While this is great for the goldfish you may want to consider plastic plants. Never use flyspray or other aerosols near your fish tank. These have compounds that can kill your fish. Feeding. - Use good quality goldfish food. Goldfish like a variety of foods so you can supplement their diet with blanched veggies such as lettuce (Cos is the best for feeding) and zucchini/courgette and frozen foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworms. - Feed once or twice per day and never more than your goldfish can eat within 3-5 minutes - Remove excess food as it will foul the water and can lead to further problems. Water changes - If want to keep healthy goldfish water changes are essential. This helps keep toxins such as ammonia and nitrates at acceptable levels and replaces minerals. Change 10% of the water weekly in a filtered (and cycled) aquarium, and 25% in a non-filtered aquarium. - Use a water conditioner when making water changes. Water conditioners neutralise and detoxify harmful substances from your tap water such as chlorine/chloramines and heavy metals. - Never change most or all of the water in a tank. An established cycled tank has thousands of good bacteria that help break down toxins. - Never use distilled or demineralized water as fish needs minerals to be healthy. - If your tap water looks cloudy then your local water provider may have flushed the system with chlorine. PH - Goldfish thrive at the 7.2 - 7.6 range and though they are able to withstand variations in pH much better than other fish an effort should be made to maintain their water in this 7.2 - 7.6 range.A sudden change in pH is detrimental to your fish, and continued exposure to high or low pH is likewise harmful. If you have problems contact your local pet store or FNZAS aquarium club . If you take a water sample from your tank into most pet shops they will test it for pH, ammonia, and/or nitrites, and provide advice. There is also plenty of good information and advice on the internet. ©This item may not be reproduced without written permission
  8. I wrote a Marine FAQ (Frequently asked questions) to hopefully help out some beginners...AcronymsGeneralASW = Artificial Salt Water BB = Barebottom (no substrate) BR = Base Rock BS = Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate) CC = Crushed Coral CL = Closed Loop CUC = Cleanup Crew DI = Deionization DOC = Dissolved Organic Carbon DSB = Deep Sand Bed EC = End Cap (light) FO = Fish Only FOWLR = Fish Only With Live Rock for goodness sake = Favourite Fish Store FTS = Full Tank Shot (photography) HO = High Output (light) HOB = Hang On Back HOT = Hang On Tank LFS = Local Fish Store LNS = Low Nutrient System LPS = Large Polyp Stony (coral) LR = Live Rock LS = Live Sand MH = Metal Halide NSW = Natural Salt Water NO = Normal Output (light) ORP = Oxygen Reduction Potential PAR = Photosynthetically Active Radiation PC = Power Compact (light) PH = Powerhead RSM = Red Sea Max (aquarium) QT = Quarantine Tank REDOX = Reduction / Oxidation RO = Reverse Osmosis RODI = Reverse Osmosis / Deionization RTN = Rapid Tissue Necrosis (coral) SB = Sandbed SG = Specific Gravity SPS = Small Polyp Stony (coral) SSB = Shallow Sand Bed STN = Slow Tissue Necrosis (coral) TDS = Total Dissolved Solids ULN = Ultra Low Nutrients ULNS = Ultra Low Nutrient System UV = Ultra Violet (light) VHO = Very High Output (light) WH = Wiring Harness (light) WC = Water Change ChemicalAC = Activated Carbon KH = Alkalinity CA = Calcium GAC = Granular Activated Carbon MG = Magnesium PH = Acidity/Alkalinity measurement PO4 = Phosphate NH3 = Ammonia NO2 = Nitrite NO3 = Nitrate LivestockBS = Brittlestar BTA = Bubgle Tip Anemone CB = Coral Beauty CBB = Copper Band Butterfly CBS = Coral Banded Shrimp GBTA = Green Bubble Tip Anemone GSP = Green Star Polyps LMB = Lawn Mower Blenny LTA = Long Tentacle Anemone PBT = Powder Blue Tang RBTA = Rose Bulb Tip Anemone What is...What is a reef tank?A reef tank is an enclosed ecosystem that simulates that of a real tropical reef. All organisms contained within it interact with each other in various ways; for example, to provide an environment (fish, corals), food (microorganisms), filtration (bacteria within live rock) or services (cleaner shrimps) Stability of the environment is maintained by a combination of sufficient lighting (for photosynthesis), water movement (for oxygenation, waste removal and providing food for corals) and the reef itself (for filtration and providing an environment for the tanks inhabitants)What size tank should I buy?There is no obvious answer to this so consider the following: (1) it only takes a small problem with a small tank to upset the entire ecosystem whereas the same size problem in a larger tank has a much lesser effect (2) marine fish require much more room than freshwater and most corals need sufficient space to grow so that they do not sting one another - so consider what you want to keep before you start and (3) a very large tank means more $$$ - not just the tank, it means more lighting, more powerful filtration equipment and more circulation, so factor this in your budget. However in general, perhaps the most common tank size is around 4 foot (300 litres)What basic filtration equipment do I need to run a reef tank? There are several different filtration methods in use. Perhaps the most common and recommended in practice today is the "berlin method". This method adopts the use of a protein skimming, plenty of live rock and strong lighting.What ongoing maintenance is required?Water changes are crucial. The amount you change may vary but typically 20% every 2 weeks is sufficient. Testing your water parameters frequently is also highly recommended. Once your tank is established, once every 2-4 weeks is sufficient although can vary depending on stocking levels. See the 'What test kits do I need?' section below.What test kits do I need?For the ongoing success of your reef tank, it is mandatory that you perform regular testing of your water parameters. The following test kits are required with recommendations on when and how often you should test (the frequency of testing will vary depending on your maintenance regime) - Ammonia (during 'cycling') - Nitrite (during 'cycling') - Nitrate (during 'cycling' then every 4-8 weeks or more) - Phosphate (every 1-2 months or when faced with unwanted algae problems *) - Alkalinity (every 2-4 weeks) - Calcium (every 2-4 weeks) - Magnesium (every 2-4 weeks) - pH (every 4 weeks or after a large water change) - Salinity (every 4 weeks or after a large water change) As you can see, there are a number of test kits you will need. Prices for these can vary from typically $25 - $50 each. Consider asking a fellow hobbyist if you can buy their test kit for use during the cycling stage. Also bear in mind that the majority of test kits have expiry dates so check before buying! * - note that most phosphate kits do not measure low enough to get an accurate enough reading. What is cycling?Cycling (or technically "the nitrogen cycle") is the process in which your tank matures to a point where there is enough bacteria present to break down toxic ammonia to nitrite then finally to nitrate. It is essential you have a zero reading for ammonia (typically after about 2-4 weeks) and is recommended you have a zero reading for nitrite (typically after 4-6 weeks) before introducing any livestock (fish can tolerate nitrate readings up to about 20ppm) The entire cycling process can take anywhere from 30 to 90 days.What is live rock? Calcium carbonate skeletons of corals and other calcareous organisms colonised by beneficial bacteria and other marine organisms that live in porus holes in the rock. Live rock is beneficial as the anaerobic bacteria deep within the rock convert nitrate to free nitrogen gas, thus acting as biological filtration. It also provides a home for microorganisms and hiding places for fish.What is a calcium reactor?A device basically made up of a chamber containing calcium carbonate media. The chamber is injected (usually via a bubble counter) with CO2 gas which increases acidity (or decreases pH) causing the media to breakdown. The dissolved calcium carbonate is subsequently drip fed into your tank providing a continuous calcium supplement to your corals What is a protein skimmer? A device used to remove excess waste products from saltwater aquariums. Protein skimming (also known as "foam fractionation") is achieved by the device producing fine bubbles or "foam" which organic impurities are attached too. The "foam" is channeled out of the device and into a collection cup which can later be discarded.What is kalkwasser?Kalkwasser is German for "limewater" (or also known as calcium hydroxide) Kalk has a very high pH (around 12-12.5) It is usually dissolved with topoff water which is slowly drip-fed at night to help maintain pH and alkalinity levels and add inorganic Calcium to the aquarium. Add approximately 1 teaspoon of kalkwasser powder to 5 litres of water, mix well and dose slowly.What is reverse osmosis?Reverse Osmosis (RO) is a water purification process. It separates solids from water by applying pressure to water and forcing it through an RO membrane. One side of the membrane retains solute whilst pure water passes out the other side. In the reef keeping hobby, RO is often used with DI to produce highly pure water that is used as replacement water (from evaporation) Because of its high purity it adds no nutrients to the system thus reducing unwanted algae growth. RO typically reduces around 95% of impurities.What is deionization?Deionization (DI) is a water purification process. Water is passed slowly over ion exchange resin (typically small beads) attracting ions such as iron, copper, chloride, etc from the water. In the reef keeping hobby, DI is often used with RO to produce highly pure water that is used as replacement water (from evaporation) Because of its high purity it adds no nutrients to the system thus reducing unwanted algae growth. DI typically reduces around 99% of impurities.What is phytoplankton?Phytoplankton are microscopic floating plants, such as algae or diatoms that live suspended in bodies of water and that drift about because they cannot move by themselves or because they are too small or too weak to swim effectively against a current. Most phytoplankton are too small to be individually seen with the naked eye. Phytoplankton is fed upon by zooplankton such as copepods and amphipods.What is zooplankton?Zooplankton are the tiny animals that swim around in the water column. These small invertebrates are generally grouped into rotifers, cladocerans, and copepods. Zooplankton are part of the bottom of the aquatic food chain and typically feed upon phytoplankton and are typically fed upon themselves by fish and other aquatic life.Back to top Water ChemistryAlkalinityAlkalinity, or also known as the "buffering capacity", is a measure of the capacity of water to neutralize acids without a change in pH. It is primarily due to the presence of naturally available bicarbonate, carbonate, and hydroxide ions in the water. Alkalinity is measured in kH, mEq/L or ppm and should be maintained between 7-11kH (or 2.5-4.0meq/l or 125-200ppm CaCO3) You can use baking soda to raise Alkalinity (1tspn will raise 170 litres by 1kH) CalciumCalcium is one of the most essential elements in a reef tank. Corals build their skeletal structures from calcium carbonate extracted from seawater. Calcium is measured in ppm and should be maintained between 380–450ppm calcium ion (or 950-1125 ppm CaCO equivalents) Levels of calcium can be maintained by use of a Calcium Reactor (see above) dosing the required amount of Calcium Chloride Dihydrate (CaCl2), Kalkwasser or other alternatives. If mixing CaCl2 its solubility in water at 20°C is approx 75g per 100mlMagnesiumMagnesium is the third most plentiful element dissolved in seawater and is about five times more abundant than calcium. It is an essential mineral involved in many biological processes in every living organism. Magnesium is measured in ppm and should be maintained between 1250-1350ppm. Levels of magnesium can be maintained by adding magnesium chips to a Calcium Reactor (see above) or dosing the required amount of Magnesium Chloride Hexahydrate (MgCl2) also known as "Magflake" (or other alternatives) If mixing MgCl2 its solubility in water at 20°C is approx 170g per 100ml of waterNitrateNitrate (NO3) is an oxidized ion of nitrogen. Nitrifying bacteria can convert nitrite (NO2–) to nitrate in the nitrogen cycle. Nitrate can fuel undesirable algae growth so should be maintained as low as possible. Nitrate is measured in ppm and should be maintained between 0-5ppm in a reef tank (although is ok at slightly higher levels in a fish only aquarium)PhosphatePhosphate (PO4) is a compound of Phosphorus, a trace element naturally occuring in seawater although at extremely low levels (typcially 0.002ppm) Phosphate is considered an 'algae fertiliser' and it is the primary source for many forms of undesired algae (primarily hair algae) Phosphate is often introduced via unfiltered tap water, some forms of salt mix, calcium additives, activated carbon or kH buffers. Running kalkwasser can help reduce phosphate levels. Phosphate is measured in ppm and should be kept at 0.03 or less (or typically 'unmeasurable' on a reef hobbyist test kit)pHpH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. pH is measured on a scale of -5 (most acidic) to 14 (most alkaline) with 7 being neutral (neither acidic nor alkaline) In a reef tank pH should be maintained between 7.8-8.5, or more preferably between 8.1-8.3 To keep a stable pH, ensure the room your tank is in has adequate ventilation (leave some windows open) and the tank itself has sufficient water movement. Also consider running reverse lighting if you have a refugium.Troubleshooting My water is evaporating, what do I do?It is completely normal for water in your tank to evaporate, one of the biggest contributors being heat from your lights (specifically halides). The most important thing to be aware of is that the replacement water MUST BE FRESH WATER! If you make the mistake of replacing evaporated water with saltwater, your salinity will increase to such levels that you will essentially "burn" your fish and corals.I'm having problems with my coral, what do I do?Unfortunately there is no single answer to this question. However, assuming you have an established tank the following are the most important things to check in the following order:Salinity: Too high or too low will melt your corals. This is often the most common area where beginners fail. A refractometer is recommended for testing (and dont forget to top up evaporation with freshwater!) Aim for around 1.025.Calcium/Alkalinity: Because of the uptake of these parameters by corals, its crucial that these levels are within the required range. Calcium should be kept between 380-450, Alkalinity typically from 7 to 11.Flow: Corals require adequate water movement in order to wash away metabolic waste and more importantly, in aiding the mechanisms of respiration and photosynthesis. Water flow is too often underestimated in reef tanks. Aim for a minimum of 10 times turnover in your display, although 20 or more is preferred.Placement: Corals are constantly in chemical warfare with one another, battling for space to grow. Most corals can 'sting' one another, some more aggressive than others so if there is localised damage, check any neighbouring corals. Some corals are able to send out 'sweepers' 6" or more; research your coral or provide ample room.Lighting: Suitable lighting is required for (hermatypic) corals (or more specifically, zooxanthellae within the corals) for optimal photosynthesis. Remember different corals have different light requirements so research first to find the optimal placement.Tank inhabitants: There are many types of fish unsuited to reef aquaria. Many angels for example have a tendency to nip at corals, clams or invertebrates. Check that all your livestock are well suited for a reef tank.Coral Disease: See the FAQ Coral Disease section for more information on coral bleaching, STN/RTN, etcOther: There are many other causes for corals looking damaged, unhealthy or dying. If you're still stumped, post a question under the Quarantine forum on the a bunch of sad old men who can't tell the difference between whitespot and a pod forums.I'm getting bad algae growth, help?!Welcome to reef keeping! Many tanks will go through an unwanted algae stage (quite commonly after cycling) until they reach full maturity. This will continue to occur until the Live Rock completely sheds any detritus stored in it (the leaching of this causes nitrates and phosphates, fueling the bad algae) What you need to achieve is a point where the good algae (eg: Coralline - the pink calcaerous algae) and corals, outcompete the bad algae for whatever nutrients remain in your tank. This however also requires that you have good Nutrient export (as the nutrient uptake by corals and Coralline is very low) You can achieve this by regular water changes or running phosphate removers, however arguably the most effective means of nutrient export is a good quality Protein Skimmer. Also ensure you are not adding nutrients by overfeeding, using tap water for top-up or having an overstocked tank. Lastly ensure you have appropriate lighting (one that promotes good coral growth, not unwanted algae growth) Tanks are likely to experience green hair algae, diatoms and cyanobacteria before reaching that equilibrium point. The time it takes to come right depends on how thorough and consistant you are with maintenance. I'm getting poor coral growth, why?Lack in coral growth is most commonly caused by low levels of calcium, alkalinity and pH. All of these parameters must be within there required range for optimal growth (refer to the sections above for appropriate levels) Phosphate can also inhibit coral growth as well as cause nuisance algae.Unwanted Algae I have a brown/golden dusting on my glass/rocks?This is most likely to be Diatoms. Strong diatom growth is quite common after a new tank has finished cycling or when something new (rock, fish) is added to the tank. Diatoms feed off nutrients, so ensure mechanisms are in place to reduce nitrates, phosphates and DOC's - however Diatom growth is most responsive to Silicates (most often introduced through tapwater) so ensure you use filtered water for top off. As usual, ensure you also have appropriate lighting and flow.I have a red slime coating my rocks/substrate?This is most likely to be Cyanobacteria or "red slime" algae (there may also be the formation of small bubbles on the slime, the presence of these usually confirmation - the oxygen bubbles themselves a byproduct of the cyano). Phosphates, Nitrates and DOCs (dissolved organic compounds) are food sources for Cyano, so ensure mechanisms are in place to reduce these. Also ensure the tank has adequate ventilation, as CO2 is also a food source for algae. As usual, ensure you also have appropriate lighting and flow.Coral Disease What is bleaching?Bleaching is when corals turn white, usually from the tips down (also see STN/RTN) The tissue is white, but still living, and is most often caused by excessive light. Bleaching can often be cured by reducing the intensity of the light and slowly reacclimatising the corals too it.What is STN/RTN?STN/RTN stands for Slow/Rapid Tissue Necrosis respectively; the prefix simply defining how quickly the necrosis occurs. STN/RTN is when a coral starts to bleach (turn white from dying tissue) usually from the base of the coral upwards. STN is often caused by the introduction of a new colony that becomes stressed. The stressed coral can often produce chemicals that produce extreme reactions in other corals. It is usually best to remove the offending colonies to a quarantine tank until they are over the stress of shipping. Water changes and carbon will help remove chemical messengers from the tank water. RTN is often caused by a sudden and large change in water parameters, be sure to double check before dosing any additives. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission
  9. I think the idea of a plant database is brilliant. Take quite a lot of research though. Like Derek says, any pictures will be better than none. I particularly like the idea of where you can source plants. Good one Cees
×
×
  • Create New...