Insect Direct

wow

Not much goodness in bloodworms. Try Hot House frozen turtle food. And insects, fish, and more insects. Even mosquito larvae for a bit of variety and exercise. Will soon need to upgrade the tank too by the sounds of it. Need photos really. Hatchlings start out with orange bellies that fade away so maybe just noticing that? Some are blacker than others ..

so did spraying around the house kill the ones under the house?

Slightly Revised Care sheet / Guide for the: Green and Golden Bell Frog. Scientific name: Litoria aurea. Also have Litoria raniformis the Southern bell frog in NZ (very similar). Distribution: Litoria aurea mainly found in the upper North Island. Litoria raniformis lower North Island and South Island. Description: Green and golden through to brown. L. Raniformis often has bumpier skin and at times a green stripe down the center of its back. Mix between arboreal/tree frog and aquatic/ground dwelling frogs. These are good at both climbing and swimming making these frogs rather unique. Like to bask in sunlight. Generally hang out near the waters edge or slightly above ground level in low branches or foliage. Status: Abundant in North of NZ. Endangered in Australia. Size: Males upto 8cm and generally slim build. Females upto 11cm and often more plump especially when in season and full of upto 10,000 eggs. Largest recorded spawn is 11682 eggs. Average a few thousand eggs at a time and can do this many times a season. Metamorphs: 1.5-3.7cm. Average size 2.4cm Food: Live crickets, locusts, flies, mealworms, slaters, moths and so on, also known to predate other frogs including its on kind, but generally only if food is scarce. Tadpoles graze on decaying plant matter. Tip - place crickets in a container with raised sides (5-10cm will suffice) and the frogs will come to. Thus keeping most of the crickets contained and you can monitor who is eating. Crickets can also be released weekly throughout enclosures however you ought to take careful consideration of the terrariums landscape. For example works best with minimal water and easy access out of water to achieve best results with this method. No nibbling on frogs ever witnessed and Insect Direct has raised hundreds if not thousands now. Mealworms ok occasionally - place in a dish. Locusts just release and or hand feed (watch to make sure they don't drown). I try and feed them at least every other day. If a frog is skinny, offer food daily. If getting fat, flies are good exercise. Enclosures: Aim for about 1/3 water area and at least deep enough for them to fully submerge. Easy access out of water is essential - especially for young frogs - also helps any stray live food escape. Roughly speaking: 60x30x30cm MINIMUM (ok for two frogs) 100x45x45cm GOOD (upto 5/6 frogs?) 120x60x60cm GREAT (Colony of frogs 10+) Bigger the better when comes to frogs / most reptiles. Lighting & Heating: Reptile bulb or tube to replicate the sun. Heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter to encourage basking. Basking temp 25-30C, I aim for 26C. At 30C its abit like they are on steriods and become very active, almost bouncing off the walls, with a ravenous appetite. Nighttime these can handle down to 15C possibly less however I aim for no less than 20C. Can heat the water area with an aquarium heater or heat mat placed under the tank. Southern bell frogs more cold tolerant. Substrate: River sand and or river stones work well. Hardwood branches add to the aesthetics. Bare bottom tanks full of driftwood work well for breeding and or general living - really makes for simplistic upkeep also. Filtration: Makes vivarium maintenance much easier, more stable water conditions equating to happy frogs. Canister filters are great. Under gravel filters (UGF) are OK as to are small internal filters. However small internal filters will likely need to be rinsed every week or two. Do so in old tank water not chlorinated tap water. Never clean thoroughly as will kill off the good bacteria that helps the filter keep the water clean and stable. Water changes: At least 20% once a week is probably a good base line. Temperature: 22-26C seems to be a good temp. Breeding Bell Frogs: Rewarding - easy to breed.. Breeding is stimulated by a raise in temperature and an abundance of food. Much like the frogs experience in the wild when spring and summer come to town. Rainfall is also a cue however not necessary. Winter shut-down is helpful for breeding and fertility however not needed for this species. Would only advise if having problems with fertility. 22-28 degrees Celsius is suitable for breeding. Lower temperatures are OK for winter shut-down. Careful consideration and planning is a must if opting for winter shut-down/brumation. Recordings of bell frogs croaking (available online) can be played back to the frogs to help start the breeding process but generally not needed if frogs are fed good food and kept in ideal conditions. Males will call until females submit and are mounted then the female will deposit upto 10,000 eggs (2000-3000 more typical in captivity) in the water whilst the male fertilises them. This amount of tadpoles will require some serious room and quality water to have any chance of success. Breeding is the easy bit - good luck and happy herping from Insect Direct! Would appreciate any input as this is just what works for me.

berry nice

I want to swim init lol. !drool:

Not really, can help if a skink is struggling to shed. But that is probably caused due to a lack of a decent diet and or temperature. A bit of substrate (bark or aspen shavings) or a brick to rub off their skins helps. I use artificial turf as a substrate and recently added a dry hide box full of aspen as a nice warm refuge for them to sleep and to aid shedding + they love to burrow. That they seem to use alot. Occasionally seen them shed after rain though, probably just a coincidence..

the bluish one i had a couple of years back just came from tiny bush clad stream about half a meter wide. didn't appear to lose colour once captive. can't be that rare.

Is an impressive setup isn't it. Any photos from a distance? just want to see what the complete tank looks like now.

:nfs:

Brilliant :slfg:

Seasons seem to change every where and every year yeah? :lol:

Yeah na easy to do and not all bad. Can never stop researching and or learning, even when you think you have it sussed there is always always something that can be improved. Keep moist hide moist at all times to avoid shedding issues. Put hole in top if feed crickets. Creates a refuge for the gecko not that they really need it.

Only had them a short time like one winter - so far from an expert - but um must of been a good 2-3months if not more. Depending on how cold it is where they are being kept then may still require a little heat. Alan mentioned down to 12C. Sounds about right but I have lost my book from Ron Tremper (signed copy :facepalm: ). Think I just turned all heat off over that time. The geckos looked just as good at the end of brumation as they did prior. If start looking sick and or losing condition best to put the heat back on. When does winter start lol? about a month after that. haha you'l work it out. :lol:

I kept all separate, even females. Even when breeding as found it keeps the male keen and stress to a minimum for all. Only takes a few minutes to mate and if ready they generally do it straight away. The couple of pairings that didn't mate straight off (after many attempts at quick intros and no luck) I would leave them together for upto a week and that seemed to be more than enough. Brumate in winter as Alan said hard to do so in summer. Would not feed for atleast a week prior. I only feed twice a week, sometimes went days without food, and biggest one I hatched is 27g at 4months old so grow pretty fast with out much effort.