SpidersWeb

I'd say thats getting on the heavy side, you should probably split the food in to morning and night feedings. Your fish will be fine with a small sprinkle of flake and maybe an algae tab here and there, but feeding more is up to you As long as nothing is suffering because of it, who cares its all good. I'd definately split it in to seperate meals though. Since you have 7 ottos and a bristlenose, the algae tabs are a good idea, as long as its eaten over the daytime, you should also give cucumber a go, I hear ottos love it. At the end of the day unless your tank is suffering (which it isnt by the sound of it) and your fish are not getting obese, I wouldn't worry And in saying that, I've found obese fish tend to grow faster and larger anywho.

Bristlenose are commonly kept with discus because they're much less likely to bite on to the side, however you do get the occasional rouge that may need rehoming (1 out of 20 maybe).

Daltons Aquatic Mix 8) $9.95 for 10kg. Swords no longer starve of nutrients, and hairgrass grows like Oprah on cheesecake. Seems to have solved my problem anyway. Pull some out of the tank and leave it for a day or so, if it turns red (like mine did) its actually red algae, in which case I'm told high phosphates (bloodworms/heavy feeding) is the cause and PhosZorb can be used in the filter to pull it out.

Nope, there is no guide. The easier to breed and raise a fish is, the cheaper it is. For example Danios can be bred weekly and require little care - $3 each, where as Discus need to be raised off the parents and given near perfect water conditions hence prices vary from $35 to $300. There is no store I'd consider a 'rip off' if that's what you are wanting to know. Unless you're buying fish valued over $20 I wouldn't worry too much. Also a good idea to ask on here because many users breed fish themselves and have excess, also try trademe.co.nz and look under Home and Living > Pets > Fish.

They're community fish until they start breeding, but some (like my pair) aren't very aggressive at all, and they dont kill fish they just encourage them to keep away from their side of the tank I would expect to pay $5-15 (depending on store) if you want them at a size closer to adult. Hutt Pets always has heaps in. When picking them out try to get those with the most vivid colours, but remember they'll darken up a lot more when they get settled in at home.

hehe speaking of which When my Kribensis were tiny wee fry I had two that couldn't swim properly. I culled one but never found the other, then last week I spotted a small kribensis hopping around, its crazy cute, he looks happy as, he sits upright and everything, just can't get very far off the ground, more of a bottom dweller. I should cull but too cute, its like a lil' bunny rabbit without the ears.

Na, then you'll just need to cycle again, meds should do the trick. Once you've got it sorted, I've got some young kribensis and pearl danios I can flick your way if you want them.

You need to make an appointment with your vet, and bring evidence such as photos/fish etc I just rang our local, took a video in, explained what was wrong, and he wrote out a script. Remember to say 'Trichozole' not Metro. If your vet wont help, find another.

At home it is, they had laid eggs in the store which is why we got them. TimTam got the other pair, wonder if she had the same luck? I've had these two for about 2-3 weeks now. I had noticed the female had turned yellow but that was about it, then viola mini apistos. Dad isn't allowed near them, and he doesn't really have an interest, just off doing his thing. The fry mostly hover under the female, except for some which she moves using her mouth.

Just like any animal, when you need quality treatment you need to see a vet and get a prescription. For larger fish they can even inject anti-biotics where required. If you know what it is, and can show them pictures/video or preferably bring the fish in, they will prescribe the medication required. Praziquental is also found in dog worming tablets such as Drontal All-Wormer, however I no longer recommend this method due to fish losses by other forum members. Vet cost me $43 last time, and $12 at the chemist for the script (although that wasnt for Praziquentil). If that's too much, you will want to consider clove oil if the fish looks to be suffering/in pain. This is not a normal part of the hobby, so don't be discouraged. Do not buy any more fish until the problem is sorted. When I first started, and I had these problems, I often found it hard to get help, and often that's because we all have our own ways that we learn over time, and they dont always work. So often we give advice that can lead to the death of a fish, so people are reserved about giving advice. If I couldn't afford to see a vet, I'd use Drontal All-Wormer (for worm problems) and lots of aquarium salt (general cure really), maybe throw in a little mag sulphate. I've also got a copper sulphate mix that I keep as a trick up my sleve if there are no other options. These are the options I use, and I dont recommend them because they dont always work, they're just better than nothing. Best person to see is the vet, but remember they probably dont know fish, so you've got to kind of help them along some times. Note sharns advice on the Metro and the different name for it.

We had a pair of these in with all my baby fish in the planted tank until I found them eating all my pearl danios. Popped them in a Jebo R338 38L tank at 30C and left them alone. Last night we found this: Not many, we've seen about 10-20, but cool none-the-less.

You've gotta watch out for disease etc too. Guppies and Neons are prone to disease. Danios on the other hand have a good immune system and they're fast Some good exercise. I don't buy fish to feed the Oscars, but we do take healthy unwanted fish such as danios with bent spines etc, I'm just finishing off a supply of unwanted black widow tetras. I've got a few species of fish on the breed here and its handy having a retard disposal unit. What I consider cruel is when the fish is stressed for more than about a minute and can't be swallowed/killed in one hit. I wont be taking black widows again for that reason (takes the oscars too long). I haven't seen sharn post yet, so I should make the point that other fish aren't overally nutritious. I use mine for entertainment/exercise, but I feed pellets, beefheart, dogfood etc normally Just got a M/F pair of Jag cichlids. I'm going to give them our last black widow, see how they go, if it takes longer than a minute I'll net it out.

Taken from the SOG site. They don't have thermostats, otherwise they look fine to me. You'd need to ask the SOG staff to find out if they're water proof or not. I'd go for the 15 watt model, just enough to make current without overheating the tank. Another common alternative (cue Caryl) is to use a heating pad and thermostat, which goes under the aquarium. I don't think its necessary unless you have no fertilising substrate. Our plants are going phsyco with the daltons aquatic mix, and I can't imagine why anybody would want faster growth, I'm pruning weekly now*. * Combined with 0.9W/L 6500K T8 lighting and DIY yeast powered CO2

Go to Mitre 10, and get some acetic cure silicone, run a bead up the side you found the drips. If there was a drip problem, there wont be now 8) Your tank is quite a good size at around 368 litres, new I'd expect to pay $400ish, second hand $150-200, second hand with suspected leak $50. If you're going to tell people about the drip, I'd set a $1 reserve, if you're going to keep quiet, then $50 or $100 reserve.

There are no native/wild ones, just introduced. So if you can get them in the wild, you'll be able to get them commercially. A wild (but introduced) population of Green Sailfin mollies exists near Taupo in a thermal heated stream. Thats the only one I'm aware of that would differ from store bought examples. A nearby population of swordtails has been said to have died off. South Island is probably far too cold. As IOU said, normally when people say 'I went to the river and caught some guppies' they actually mean Gambusia which is illegal to trade now and is another introduced species. From memory they're just grey and completely freak out when captured.

Hopefully I got the right picture!

Takes a long long time though, and if you do get them to that size, there is lots of crazy people like me that'd love to buy buy buy Clown loaches are awesome. Check out the thread about 'Sweety' from a few weeks ago. That loach was HUGE, took like 20 years but damn that was rad.

Definately will not be made of 16mm glass. It is probably 6mm glass. I've got tanks here of those same dimensions except shorter (1.2m instead of 1.8m) and they're fine. You can see its got full bracing around the top, so I'd wager that its fine just dont bounce things off the glass :lol: Some of the tech guys will surely let you know the official 'saftey factor' but I'd personally set that up without thinking twice. The tank may be long, but its not very wide or tall.

I got mine at Mitre 10 Mega, only had about 4 bags of it. Bunnings didn't have it in stock, and neither did the smaller Mitre 10's. It's $9.95 for 10kg and it is doing absolute wonders for my planted tank. I thoroughly recommend a substrate mix like Daltons for anyone considering a planted tank with moderate to heavy lighting.

Haven't you ever heard of Snail Mail?

Look up glass in your yellow pages, you should find somebody local easily enough.

Thanks Frenchy Well I found out what the cause was. Somebody (maybe me, maybe not) unplugged the Jebo 819 cannister. We dont use a spray bar or anything so there was no way to tell it was off. When we opened it up it was completely rotten and had to be hosed down. There are internal filters and a huge 5'x2.5' area of gravel to keep the bacteria going, but there must have been a huge ammonia spike. Stupid of me not to test for it but oh well. Along with the filter being resetup, we also did a 50% water change, followed by a 33% water change the next day, fish are looking happier than ever. We got a new green severum, but I really miss the old guy

There is no need to change the filter wool. A simple rinse does the job and you only need to do this once in a blue moon or if you're having dirty tank problems. If you are having trouble with cloudy water you might want to try products like P-Clear.

I've found my angels to always have dark stripes, and just visisted a pet store with around 50 angels, all with dark stripes. I think yours may have a gene making them more likely to stay light. Certainly not something I've seen in common stocks. I've got veiltail, regular, and zebra specimens of the striped types, and they only go faint when stressed. There is a stripeless gene, but stripeless dont show stripes during aggression. Double dose of stripeless and you get blushing (white) which is a good looking angel too

Yep red eyes is normal, actually an orange. Males tend to have a stronger colouration, but not always.