Pies

Pinpoint are temprature compensating and yes you must warm the calibration fluid to the temprature of your tank prior to calibrating its use. There are zillions of PH monitors out there all claiming 1/100 of a PH for accuracy, if they wern't accurate to within 1/100 then the would jsut advertise a different accuracy level. These units ship with lab grade PH probes, you can buy cheaper probes. Cheap are about $30.00ea, expensive lab grade probes are $50, thats USD. So if my monitor shows 8.29 for PH I am confident that its between 8.28 and 8.3 If they were not accurate people would not use them. Personally I would like to know if there was a difference of .2 in PH. 8.3 is good, 8.5 is a problem. 7.9 is low, 7.7 is very low. I personally am trying to stablise my tank paramaters, including PH. This is the only way to do it.

Accuracy - I am sure these devices are very accurate, not sure what reef means about using them as a guide? I take my readings as gossipl, I am sure they are within a few points of spot on. As for others claims of high or low PH, if they are using PH test kits (salifert, Hagen, Red Sea or whatever) then they could be reading anything. Those things are so wildly out of wack its not funny, use these tests as a guide. My probe is in my sump in the dark, its as clean as the day I put it in. I have re-calibarted it once but it detected the fluid 7&10 perfectly. They claim the probes last 2-3 years. Many on UR claim use of over 5 years without issue. I give my Pinpoint monitor 10/10. If I paid 100x more than I did pay for it, it would still be one of my best purchases! Also works in fresh water! NOTE: Electronic PH monitors made eric Bournemans list of 'reef keepers must haves', and Eric knows stuff. Piemania

Layton - You should read this - http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/ ... 2/chem.htm A good explination of PH for you as I think your quite a bit off the mark. Gives several examples of PH problems not related to low ALK. FYI - Just tested my water - ALK = 8.0 & PH = 8.27 Pies

I have found that light spread is more important than light intensitiy, corals being brown on the sides buy purple/pink/blue on top. So am I right in thinking that a spread of light is more important than the 'power of the light'? QUESTION 1. 400watt SE vs. 250DE. My own experance with 250 watt DE is very good, the light my tank and my SPS very well and I am happy with them. I was thinking of this: Am I better off with 5x 250watt DE or 3x 400watt SE? I suspect that the 5x250 watt is going to give me better results than 3x 400? If I am wrong please tell me! I am currently leaning towards the 350 option based on the efficiently of the 250 DE vs 400 SE. The SE would be easier to build but the DE should give me better results? I have spoken to many people on this board (Lisa and a few others) who have upgraded from 250 to 400 and not seen much if any difference, can this be true? QUESTION 2. A reflector for my 5x250 system. Currently I have A similar designed reflector, some sort of '3rd party' DIY type of jobbie. Its very good though. I was thinking of something like this: I can't afford much more than 1200 watts, so my choices are 3x 400 or 5x 250. I just want the best result in the end. Help a brother out? Any other advantages of 400 over 250 or vice a versa would be appreciated. Ohhh tank will be 2100Lx900Wx700H Thanks for your help. Pies

Layton - I am not sure that your advice on measuring alk not PH is correct. I would have thought that because you are using 2 part Calcium soultion that keeping an eye on PH would be far more important. Alk does represent the stability of PH however if your PH was wrong, or has been increasing or decreasing slowly over time, then high alk will just help hold it at this paramater. With the addition of additives (CA, Buffer, Kalkwasser, Freshwater & saltwater water changes + In your case sugar, Zeovit & Vodka?) all of these things can have an effect on PH. As does lighting. Knowing what your PH is doing and how much its fluctuating is important but perhapps not nessessary. For example knowing my PH has allowed me to add kalkwasser at optimal times to ensure more stability of my PH during lights off. Your 2 for the price of one is not accurate though as the PH may be off or changed by the things mentioned above, ALK will not show you that PH has changed or what PH is. I don't agree that PH testing is something you shouldn't do, but I understand your logic. I don't think its good advice to reccomend that it shouldn't be done. I do agree that alk is a VERY important paramater and should be tested regualry though. JetSkiSteve thanks for the probe! Chimera - Saltwater gets EVERYWHERE...

Aluminium is no good, Titanium is the metal of choice. Won't saltwater be a little harsh on a car radiator? if you need a chiller then get one, if you DIY one best be confident that it will continue to work, as many people here know, high temp will kill lots of stuff. The guy from RC last year (Michael Moyle) had 3 chillers, 1 backup, and 1 backup backup. I have a PinPoint PH monitor and put it on my 'must have' list. NEVER again will I need to struggle with those stupid colour change tests, uselss. My PH is 8.27 right now. Sweet. The best place to buy them online is www.seame.com . Free shipping to NZ for purchases over $75 USD. I would be tempted to get a Pinpoint temp probe too. Good luck

Why would sunlight be a problem? Sunlight = free light!

Yeah the Streams are a top dollar item, and are almost overkill in my 5ft tank! There are heaps of other options, SCWDs, top loader pumps, even maxijets and ehiem pumps with 'modifications' for extra flow Even a Sea Swirl on a closed loop may be the go? I LOVE my Sea Swirls

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showt ... did=271539

I would say moderate or high. That being said I have seen it in the wild and would say low. If its getting blasted you can't see it pulse, but it does like the strong current, at least it does in my tank. There are a few different sorts, the one in these photos (the Steve strain) does seem very fussy at all! Just give it whatever!

You may (if you ask really nicely) get the T24 kit (2 pumps + controller) for aboyt $1300.00 NZ. If you want to do the Ehiem MOD talk to JetSkiSteve, he is the man when it comes to ghetto pump mods

I have seen the weatherson tank many times, its a great blueprint, good attitude, good workmanship and and real perfectionist. I would use his as a blueprint for me if I was doing inwall. I like the space he made around the table so you can stand up and reach into the tank. 10/10

Chiemra There are different types of corals, hard corals (stoney) are often referred to as SPS and LPS corals. SPS - Small Polyped Stoney, LPS Large Polyped Stoney. Acropora (staghorn coral), birds nest, montipora are all examples of SPS corals. SPS corals have small polyps, approx 1mm in size or smaller. LPS corals are the stoney corals that look like soft but are not! Bubble coral, Torch coral, brain corals, frogspawns, hammer corals are all examples of LPS corals. According to our friend Eric Bourneman (Author of a book called 'Corals for the Aquauirum and is VERY good) sais there really is no scientific difference between so called LPS & SPS corals. Eric is smart so lets just assume its true. But it is a useful term to help seperate VERY HARD corals (SPS) from easier coras (LPS) corals. All stoney coral typically requires better water conditions, light and waterfows than other types of common coral (leathers, mushrooms, zooanthids). Phew done that to death! Equipment is expensive EVERYWHERE not just NZ. We have been pretty lucky here in NZ but talk to Steve, he knows some people who I am sure can help you out with most equipment and even some stock. He may also be able to get you a good price on some Streams if you want them. BEWARE the big streams in a small tank like yours will be a little 'dangerous'. hahahaha Streams are VERY effecticve. Power heads shouldn't 'clog up' however so don't be afraid to use them, its just that they looks a bit unslightly. But this can't really be avoided easily. Good luck Pies

Massive tanks! AWESOME! Please keep this thread up to date, I too am planing a large tank, but not quite this large. Some info in the saltwater section. Are you going to 'drill' the tank for plubming to avoid the 'up and over' plumbing? Have you considered the use of an 'overflow box and Durso standpipe' for noise reduction? Both work great and have the added advantage of keeping the waterlevel constant regardless of evaporation. Also 30" is pretty deep. I am going to use 26", for no other reason that getting into it is going to be a hastle. And 30" may be up to the armpits at the from, but with a tank this wide it will be impossilbe to reack the back. Shallow is also better value for lighting. AWESOME! Good luck Pies

Hi Chimera Your tank is looking good, I WISH I could have an in-wall tank, you lucky sod! To answer your questions... I suspect you don't have enough water circulation either. In-tank power heads, Tunze Streams (kinda like super charged power heads) are good attitions. Have a talk to NickS as I know he needs to add flow to his tank too. Aim for at least 10x the tank volume an hr, and you will be fine, the 'SPS' corals require a little more. "Closed loops" - This is a name for plumbing in a water pump (like your sump return pump) into the tank, but having it draw water and put it back in from the same tank. This way, if the pump is powered off it doesn't leak. Also it is not effected by 'head pressure'. Another benifit is that the pump is external to the tank, making it easier to maintain it and reducing heat transfer. Closed loops are VERY popular with new setup tanks as drilling holes through the glass means you circulation pumps are hidden, much better than in-tank power heads. Egg Crate Reef Rack - Its not nessessary, but I think it does help. One of those things that can't do any harm, is cheap and a good option to consider when setting up a new tank. I wouldn't nessessarly rip all you rock out to do it though. With the closed loops running water into the space under the 'rack' it helps stop dead spots and keeps detritus suspended for the skimmer and filteration equipment to remove. Before you look at a CA reactor buy a CA test kit. You have lots/mostly soft corals, and they don't need that much CA. Keep up with the kalkwasser as per NickS instruction and see if you actually need any more calcium. If your looking for a second hand unit I would talk with JetSkiSteve, if its for sale he will most likley know about it. Same deal with live rock, Steve has access to some great rock at the moment for a fair price. I would love to see some more pics of your tank, its looks great. Good luck! Pies

Yes I did have this same thread before, however this one is for a new main tank. I have purchased a new house and will be moving into it very soon. So its time for a new tank. Moving the tank will be 'rip tear and bust', I won't have time to make it pretty. But I am going to take the time to get this tank right... 1st off a remote sump. The tank will be located in the family room/kitchen with the sump bellow 1 storey in the garage. YAY! This means all the mess can be contained downstairs. It also means I can automate water changes and plumb directly into our waste water. The tank. Size is still in the conceptual stages location isnt. It will be in the corner of a room, with the front and left side viewable, the rear and right side hidden. I am contemplating a tank 1800L (6ft) x 700 high (current tank 650, any higer is just to deep, may even stick at 650) x 850-1000 wide. Width is how to get the most out of aquascaping, but because of the way the tank will be situated, its hard to imagine being able to makeit any wider. I intend to use my existing 2 streams for circulation + 2x sea swirls + 2 closed loops. I will again use a plastic egg crate for a 'reef rack' which helps circulation under the rock, the closed loops will also help with this. I will again use a Durso style stand pipe system, but will have an overflow at just one end, this way the viewable end will not be obstructed by an overflow. 'IF' I can get the glass 'notched' I will use external overflows, but not sure if glass notching is possible through my guy, will see soon. Pies

I feed my fish zuchenni (spelling?) attached to lead weights. I think that every 2 a put in only 1 comes out. Must be 50 of them in there. Not a problem in this tank and setup over 2.5 years so wouldn't worry to much. Personally i'd just wait till it sunk though! Pies

I almost agree with Layton... I personally would not use Tee Tree Oil or Garlic, I think its total nonsence (for fish) and its completely unproven. Its also a change to their diet, which will stress the fish more, and as Layton has rightly pointed out stress is a killer. What to do. Hrmmmmmm. Hrmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Hrrrrmm. What to do.... I would say that if your fish are OK, then they will pull through. This would have been my advice. But I am starting to have a change of heart... Why? My blue tang has white spot. He has had it for over 6 months, maybee 9. He is fat and healthy and it doesn't seem to bother him to much, but some days its looks really bad, others you can hardly notice it, but mostly its BAD. Over the pasy month I have also noticed a few bits on my rabbit fish. Hrmmmmm. When I move my tank in a few weeks time I am going to be in an excellent position to treat the tang and rabbit fish (with copper, or machelete green or something). Am I going to? I don't know! I am leaning towards yes. Simply because its a great chance to grab them, as I have to catch them anyway. Has this helped? Probably not. The real risk is if you do ignore it, and it spreads to all your fish! White spot - I also think there is probably many different types, and perhapps the one I have is not as bad as others? I dunno. Whatever you do keep stress to a minimum, feed the fish lots (helps to keep up their strength), don't add any more fish. Best of luck Pies

Joze - Then come and see me! I could use some help Ehiem pumps are good to about 4000 litres an hr. IWAKI make excellent pumps upwards of 10,000 litres an hr and higher head, also Grunfos (spelling?) make pumps with good reputation. I have 1000 litres on water and use 2x 19mm piping and 8500 litres and hr gets pumped from my sump to my tank and back to give you an idea of how much water you can push through the pipes, it is returned to the tank via 1x19mm and 1x 15mm. How big is the tank your planing? How big a pump are you looking to use to drive your filter? Does the filter have to be submersable or external. The reason I ask is I know of several 2nd hand IWAKI pumps for sale, but they are not submersiable. I am looking at using a 1/2 horse power Grunfos pump for my next tank, this will be plumbed back via 2x 25mm pressure pipes into the sump. Good luck Pies

Kevan - there are detailed plans and workshops on www.reefcentral.com for CA reactors of different sizes. These units are similar in design to mass manifactured ones and if I had the tools and ability it is what I would use. Remember a CA reactor needs to be pressurised and contains very high PH and c02 gas which can corrode certain types of plastics and silicones. I would also reccomend making a 2nd reactor chamber (to leech c02), and to hold phosphate absorbing resin. Good luck Pies

Joze. Since your in Wellington I would use Mico plumbing in Parliment street in Lower Hutt. This is where I buy my plumbing. The problem is they don't speak the same language as you and can be a little grumpy. I would suggest comming over to my house, and looking at some of the fittings I use, then going to see them. I use 15mm, 20mm, 25mm and 30mm presure piping and know more about plumbing than I thought possilbe. If you want to go 20mm (well 19mm!) there are excellent CHEAP options for irigation piping which can be used with 20mm and 15mm presure piping for the ultime combination. But if you come over I can show you what I mean. If your looking for 'bulk head' fittings to run piping through glass walls or plastic sumps/drums they are made by a company called 'hansen' and are also available from Mico. NOTE: Mico parliament street have the best selection, all other plubming sources in Wellington including master trade and ZIP are more expensive and have a much shorter sellection than parliament street. Unless you tank is massive I suspect the 19mm irigation pipe is the best option, I have only just discovered it and love it, replaced much of my plubming with it. Its cheap, robust, more flexible than pressure pipe, taps are cheaper, more fogiving to mistakes, saltwater safe, doesnt require glueing and did I mention CHEAP!!! Pies

I agree 100% about the distrubution of light. I have talked to a few people on RC who have upgraded from 250DE to 400SE and don't think there was any change. I have not talked to anyone who used 250, went to 400s and thinks it was a worth while investment. So this is the way to go, more 250DEs as oposed to fewer 400s. I've seen plently of tanks running 400 watt lights, and they certainly don't look much different, but its hard to gague really. I agree with the mixed bulb types 10k 14k 10k 14k 10k is a likley combination. Layton - Beware that chaning to higer kelvin bulbs will remove some of the 'punch' delivered. An example - JetSkiSteves tank was running 14ks last time I saw it, and it was probably the nicest tank I have ever seen. Great colour, great growth, very clean everthing looked great. The other week when I was up he had replaced his bulbs with 10k BLVs (he was using these originally) and personally I didn't think it looked as good. The tank was VERY bright and some of the colour was a little more washed out than on the 14ks. I use 10ks and don't think my light looks as glaring, but its all a matter of taste and its to hard to put tanks side by side to compare! Layton - Have a talk to Brendon about what bulbs he uses, he called them 'blues', which are the same as the bulbs a guy uses down here. Very crisp colour. I would have used 14ks this time but I think it would have taken away to much light. If I had 3 bulbs I would have gone 12-14k, but I think if I did this with 2 bulbs it would have sucked out too much light. Layton - Add a 3rd bulb to compensate for the increased kelvin on the bulbs? This is what I will do. Still not sure about fluros, it is cool to see a tank under actinics, but so many tanks don't have them I am not sure I will bother? Still not sure. Thanks for you thoughts. Pies

There is a strong possibility of me setting up a new tank to replace my existing tank Will be large (1000 litre 650mm-700mm deep, upto 900mm metre wide). So here are my questions: 400watt single ended vs. 250watt double ended - There is a lot of information on reefcentral.com about how doubble ended 250s are about 10% less effective than 400watt Singled ended. So I am considering using 1 250watt every foot of tank, staggered 200mm front to back. Use T5s or fluros or just do it all with Halides? I use T5s now but have seen many tanks (Brendons tank for 1) without any fluros and wounder if there is any benifit? Mixed bulbs? What about using 3x 250watt DEs and 2x 400 watt Single Ended for just 5 hours a day to simulate HIGH NOON lighting? Thats it. Your thoughts and suggestions on lighting. I think either way it will be DIY as I can't find a reasonable price on fixed lighting. Anyone got a good supply of pre-made MHs? Thanks Pies

This is quite true and there is no doubt we can all find examples of great tanks using Zeovit and not using it, as well as horrid tanks using it and not using it. This is a fact. The only reason I am considering use of Zeovit is my friend JetSkiSteve rung me one day, he was helping/buying/selling something from Brendon who he didn't really know. He was looking at his tank and was VERY impressed with it and its colours. So impressed that he started to spread the word. I knew that Reef was or was recently using Zeovit himself but had seen little difference and some algae problems. I had NO intention of using it until I spoke to Steve, who said Brendons tank was stunning. I have seen Brendons new tank, which looks AWESOME, but Brendon thinks its in the 'OK' stages and will improve on where it is. This has sold me on it, I hope my coral looks half as good as Brendons. I still see Zeovit has 'snake oil' and would love to know more about it, but its all hidden and secret. Their is no doubting however than stunning results can be had using this product. Sure you can get similar results without it, but your chances increase by using it. We all know this, its the reason we are all using it. Layton - I too have noticed my water is clearer, or at least I think it is. Have you noticed more gunk from you skimmer? Pies