alanmin4304

Woner tonic might be the way to go as I think it contains meth blue, acraflavine, malachite green and quinine and between them they should sort it out.

You are supposed to do a double treatment with furan if I remember correctly.

Perhaps I wasn't clear above. Chlorine is an element and a gas. Flouride and chloride are ions. Chlorine reacts with water to form hypochlorus acid but is unstable and can break down and evaporate. Water has a condition called chlorine demand and this is the sum total of all the chemicals(including amines) that the chlorine will react with (it is a very strong oxidizing agent). Free available chlorine will not remain until all these reactions have taken place. The aim is to have a few ppm of chlorine as it is a better disinfectant than the rest. Ions will not evaporate, hence the concentration of chloride in the sea.

Redwood Aquatics had a demo system controlledby a little computer and pH meter I think. I can't remember how much it was worth but it was not cheap. I noticed it was no longer being used last time I was there. I have known Bob Ward for a number of years and he is a very successful plant grower and tends to use more natural methods like adding more fish.

Flourish excel has an algacidal effect but mainly promotes plant growth so that the nutrients are stripped from the water and the algae is starved of nutrient. Cutting down on feeding and water changes adds to this I think. The plants wont grow without the lights on either.

HTH is high test hypochlorite which produces 80 odd % chlorine by weight when disolved in water and is the active ingredient used to chlorinate domestic swimming pools. It also has a slight buffering effect as chlorine lowers the pH. Chlorine is a highly toxic gas that disolves in water to form hypochlorus acid which is a very good disinfectant. Floride is an ion like chloride is in sea water and will not evaporate and is there to improve the enamel in the teeth like iodine is added to salt and they are considering adding folic acid to bread. The chlorine will dissapate particularly with ultraviolet light (hence the addition of other chemicals to mask UV in swimming pools. In a previous post I explained how chlorine reacts with the amino acids in proteins to form monochloramine then dichloramine then trichloramine before you can obtain free available chlorine. As the chlorine dissapates the balance of chloramines moves back towards the monochloramines and these are the chemicals that irritate the eyes and give the "chlorine" smell in a swimming pool. Chlorine will dissapate with aeration and UV light but I doubt that the chloramines would all break down in a couple of days. CHLORINE AND ALL THE CHLORAMINES ARE TOXIC TO FISH (THEY ARE DISINFECTANTS) and in my view should be neutalized before being added to a fish tank. Like filling half the tank with cold water and causing a 10 deg shock your fish may survive but I don't think it is ideal.

It looks just like a ruffled sword (E.martii)

I made up slates 100mm square with stainless steel hooks then used to remove the eggs and hatch them in 150 x150mm tanks until they had their first feed then move them to bare larger tanks for growing out. Lots of water changes and live food works wonders.

I used to breed them in 12gallon tanks (24x12x12inch in the old currency) Add one pair plus water plus slate near the surface and feed lots of live food then buy heaps of more tanks to raise the fry as they will spawn every couple of weeks if you remove the eggs.

Contact Vivian Dalley. Email plant [email protected] There are good reasons why they are not generally imported. Most people prize their sanity.

Formaldehyde (formalin solution) is good for gill and skin flukes but has some other bad effects like causing temporary sterility and killing plants. Your fish may have skin flukes. Not easy to get but quinine or mepacrine will cure that without killing plants.

When I was keeping them in a pond and heated tanks I found the had better colours when cold but there was only a limited time in the summer that they would breed. I also found that they were easy to convert from hot to cold but not so easy the other way. Mind you I have glasses now.

Correction: Failing that try prayer, a flying fox or a florida flagfish

I just had a more careful look and it seems you have an E. amazonicus baby and an E. martii behind. What is the story?

They must have been talking to Mrs Google

No fish eat it in my experience. I get rid of it by doing frequent water changes to strip the nutrient from the water. Feed lightly and leave the lights on to promote the growth of your plants (they will also strip nutrient). Double dose with flourish excel as it has an algacidal effect and makes minerals easily available to your plants which strips even more nutrient as the grow. Failing that try prayer.

I have no idea but someone who has done it will be able to advise.

Cycling is a living system and there are many types of bacteria all carrying out different functions in the cycle. The reason I don't use a fishless cycle is because there is no way that you can relate what you are getting to the fish you are going to add. To add fish now will probably kill them. Any rotting fish or prawn will produce ammonia but it has no relationship to what the fish will produce so in my view is meaningless, and probably causes the fish more stress than adding fish slowly and allowing the tank to adjust to the real world.

Echinodorus sp. (amazon swords) when grown emersed will produce flowers and plants but generally not roots unless planted. Underwater they produce roots as well and when well rooted become loose on the runner and can be carefully prized off, often leaving other smaller plants that will then go on to develop, sometimes months later.

6mls of 35% formaldehyde/100litres will kill hydra and should be OK with plants and fish. 12mls will kill planaria (and fish and some plants)

Yes. If you think about it you may conclude that Mrs Nature is not sitting up there with a pair of scissors. Many people lose a lot of plants by cutting the runners off as there are often smaller plants on the runner that will develop later if left.

White clouds come from the area around the White cloud mountains in China where it is extremely cold so 12 degrees will not worry them at all. I have kept them in outside ponds in Christchuch which froze over in the winter and they were OK. If you observe them you should find that they prefer cold temperatures and their colours are more intense in the cold. They are not a tropical fish.

I have explained in a previous post how chlorine reacts to form chloramines. The water supply in Auckland will have a lot of organic content and therefore a lot of chloramines.They will not evaporate and neither will the flouride any more than salt will evaporate from the sea. It is not normally the reservoir that is sanitized but the water mains any time that repairs are carried out and it would normally be sanitized with chlorine (in the form of HTH)as it is a better disinfectant than chloramine.

I would go with the other Alan. Dont cut the stem as the plants become loose when they have developed enough roots to support themselves and you may get more plants off that stem.

I used to use a v trap in a 12 gallon tank, taking up about 3/4 of the tank. You can leave the females in there and net the babies at the end. I have a setup about half that size at present for line breeding. The advantages are that you are not desturbing the females or the fry until they are old enough to move. If you put the trap to one end and feed at the other they will come to the feeding end.